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Most of the straining and light-diming when I first ran it was due to an extension cord. I moved the machine nearer to the electric outlet, ran it directly and it was much better. Of course, everything still will need a thorough examination. One thing I noticed is on the final spin on Perm Press, the speed select appears to have no effect, both Regular and Gentle run at regular speed. Is that supposed to be the case? Slow speed does work in the final spin on the Regular cycle. Maybe the timer *is* wonky as suspected, or it was replaced at some point with the wrong timer?

Anybody have a new-stock or used dial skirt in better condition? New parts apparently are available, but it's $16 at RepairClinic.
 
Glenn, I do knhow the spin after the cool-down is supposed to be normal speed. But I don't remember what CR said about the final spin speed slectability on PP. But my hunch is, the machihne is working like it's supposed to. The pump had to run on mormal speed after cool-down because it was such a short spin, it needed to get the water out of there as fast as it could.
 
Remove the front and look on the wiring diagram. It will be pasted right on the front of the tub. Look at the motor wiring diagram. It will indicate if there are one or two run windings. It should indicate "Low" and "high" along with the "start" winding if it is a two speed.
 
I know it's two-speed, both speeds work for final spin on the Regular cycle.

More details. Connected it to water tonight. With water level on Small, it filled to what should been Large, and kept filling, so apparently either the pressure hose is blocked or the switch is bad. Went through Small, Med & Large, no difference, kept filling. There's also a leak, heard a steady drip-drip-drip hitting the base.

Don (the machine's owner) said he had to manually advance the timer until it started running, else it would overflow. I don't find anywhere on the timer for agitation to run until the pressure switch is satisfied ... so *apparently* he'd load clothes and detergent, let it fill to some point, and advance the timer to SPIN, then repeat for rinse ... not realizing that his clothes weren't getting washed at all. He got a new machine from Sears, I don't know what brand, didn't ask. If it's a DD Kenmore, his clothes won't know what hit 'em after running for who knows how long through a non-agitating 1970 Maytag.
 
Maytag Fast Spin

In respect to the Maytag final spin speed, Maytag didn't allow a slow spin on Wash N Wear or their PP cycle(even though the gentle button was selected)Maytag programmed that cycle to give a fast final spin. When the they made the change to the brown panel design in 1981 Maytag finally broke down and did the right thing and gave you a slow spin on PP.
 
Cycla-Fabric, you completed my "thought process" of what CR did say about the PP cycle. That may have been another reason why I didn't get a Maytag in 1978. This aws LONG before I got Tom Turboized and thought all PP & Knit cycles should only use a slow spin speed.
 
Water Level Status

Opened the console tonight, disconnected the pressure hose, blew into the water level switch, it triggers. Blew the other way into the hose, it's not clogged shut, not completely at least. Takes quite a bit of 'blow' pressure to trigger the switch, maybe the calibration is off-kilter? Or maybe the hose is leaking at the tub end, thus the drip-drip-drip I heard. That's next to investigate. But doesn't seem (sound) like enough of a leak to prevent the switch from triggering.
 
That is the same Maytag my mother used for 21 years. The belt broke, shortly after my father had a stroke, so she let the Maytag man take it and leave a new one in it's place.
 
If it's filling too high, there's probably an air leak in the tubing going to the pressure switch. Best bet is to replace it. And yes, it takes quite a bit of pressure to trip the pressure switch!

Someone could have also tweaked with the set screw which would cause the same thing...but that doesn't seem logical.
 
Glenn,

Was Don at your housewarming? I think I remember him joking "How many women does it take to fix the coffeemaker?" when the catering lady forgot to put the lid on and water spilled everywhere! LOL
 
Yup, the pressure hose was cracked and broke completely when I pulled it off. Perhaps all the hoses should be replaced.

Interesting, a replacement outer cabinet apparently is still available. Ran across it on Sears Parts for $211. Any opinions on whether that expense is justified? Would be nice to get replacements for the nasty console and corroded trim, but some of those pieces are NLA.
 
Parts Needed

I've found another problem. Low speed motor won't start directly. It'll run on low if I get it going on high speed then switch to low quickly without the motor shutting off. I assume the cause is a bad motor switch .... ? Or the motor itself?

So thus far I need --
For sure, water level pressure hose and apparently a motor start switch.
Probably, tranny & pump belt.
To be safe, hose from water valve to fill injector (has a crack starting), fill injector nozzle & tube, hose from injector to tub cover, and hose from tub to pump.

RepairClinic .. here I come!
 
Glenn, refrain form getting a new tranny as long as possible. The replacement will be the orbital tranny, which has the faster, shorter stroke, rather than the helical drive tranny that's in this machine.
 

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