Adding sacrificial anode to suds pump? 1951 kenmore

[snail]

I recently picked up a 1951 kenmore washer dryer set. Thanks northwesty!! I'm going to slowly go over this set. The first thing I did was pull the suds pump apart which was frozen. I got it unstuck and disassembled. It's OK but it is a bit oxidized. I will media blast the oxidation away. I was thinking about making a zinc anode on the lathe and attaching it to the inside of the suds pump somewhere. Has anyone tried this before? Do you think it would be effective at stopping further oxidation?

 

[repairguy]

Congrats on getting a rare pair these days!

 

[snail]

I was thrilled to find these. I had placed a wanted ad on Craigslist. I was mulling this over and I think I could make a "gasket" out of zinc between the halves of the pump. I will seal it with some gasket maker and have a tab that wraps around to go under one of the mounting screws for proper grounding. This way I'm not making any permanent changes.

 

[swestoyz]

Has anyone tried this before? - zinc anode

Can't say I've seen this done before. As an alternative, in attempts of preserving delicate parts, I've had recent success in coating/sealing delicate pot metal items that are in constant water contact, such as your suds pump.

Most recently I've used KBS RustSeal to coat the inside of a drain case housing, pump housings, and impeller, all made of pot metal. It's a bit finicky as it will flow to the lowest point while it dries. Multiple thin coats will help prevent pooling.

Once dry, their claims of an almost ceramic coating is no joke. Attached photos are of a pot metal impeller pump w/ the KBS RustSeal applied. While the brush strokes are visible within the finish, it's totally smooth and water pools as it comes in contact with the coating, rather than the impeller absorbing water. The finish with KBS RustSeal also feels more substantial than POR-15, possibility indicating that the KBS stuff is quite different from POR-15. I'll leave it at that as I'm certainly far from an expert.

https://www.kbs-coatings.com/rustseal.html

Congrats on the frog-eye set! Beauties!

Ben

 

[snail]

Hmm that looks pretty good. Yeah.. maybe I should consider coating it. I have some epoxy sealer I could use. I also have access to anodizing at work (just don't tell the boss)

 

[bradfordwhite]

" I was thinking about making a zinc anode on the lathe and attaching it to the inside of the suds pump somewhere."

Won't that degrade and the metal bits end up in your laundry water and clothing?

It be easier to buy a new/used plastic body washer pump for like $30 and replace it?

Pardon Our Interruption...

 

[slowspin66]

Two ideas

. I’ve done a couple of methods in the past . A resin coating of all the parts that are made of the alloy metal after they have been cleaned up . As a belt and braces approach I’ve had the bits powder coated . It’s a really good process as the metal Is totally protected from water and there is no water damage again . The later however doesn’t retain the original appearance .. but it’s service free once done ..if there are holes in any of the castings I’ve used a commercial silicone to seal the holes once it’s powder coated . These are from a Bendix I’ve done in the past …

 

[snail]

Replacement isn't really an option since the suds pump is unique. It has a solenoid that pushes the drive wheel against the belt when energized. Also I will have the same issue with the drain pump and the suds diverter valve. I like the idea of powder coating or epoxy sealer. I think I will go this route vs trying to attach zinc anodes to everything.

 

[slowspin66]

Be very clear

When you engage the power coater be clear to get them to mask
Off any threaded holes in any of the castings along with any counter face surfaces that mustn’t be coated . The company I use are totally brilliant and reliable and have learnt from the requirements ! Good luck Darren

 

[combo52]

My 1952 Whirlpool Suds-Saver

Washer uses the same suds return pump, I will probably epoxy coat it when I put it back together.

 

For the two-way valve I will probably cheat and use a new plastic one as it just bolts in and will be one less thing to worry about failing in the future as I intend to use the 52 WP at times.

 

John L.