Advice on Restoring Maytag A2MP & 60-W

[kenmore71]

There is no need to remove the agitator.  Once you remove the outer cabinet you can remove the entire 3 tub assembly with the power unit intact.

 

Starting on page 22 of the service manual follow steps 3, 5, 8 & 9 (skipping the other steps)

 

You will need 2 people to remove the cabinet and it will be very helpful to have two people to remove the whole assembly and turn it over.

 

[quiggsdj]

The tub etc. assembly is just not coming loose from the frame etc. Was I supposed to disassemble the clutch at some point, or is the shaft just supposed to slide right out of that?

 

[quiggsdj]

And also: If I'm supposed to remove the clutch, how might I simulate the function of the super special "Clutch Puller Tool No. 38304"? I have no idea what that might look like.

 

[swestoyz]

If I remember right pulling the clutch is a pain, but I usually keep pulling and it eventually comes off ( doesn't hurt to tap with a small hammer). Make sure to pull the T-Key and the screw above the brake. Also pull the full flume.

All of this is detailed with much more explanation in the manual. Hope everything goes smoothly.

Ben

 

[quiggsdj]

Thanks Ben. Actually, the manual says nothing about pulling the clutch, but just from looking at the situation it seems obviously necessary.

 

[quiggsdj]

A new problem

First the big picture (I'm doing this b/c I don't know how to combine photos into a single post), showing location of the problem:

 

[quiggsdj]

Close-up 1:

 

[quiggsdj]

Close-up 2. Is this something I need to fix? If so, how? Was there fluid on the other side of that crack that now needs to be replaced? I've been really leery of opening up that transmission (gasket anyone?) -- should I be?

 

[d-jones]

That large cast aluminum device forms the upper half of the gear housing(as you can probably already see), and there are two steel alignment pins in it that I have to assume are used to help orient the lower gear housing. You can see the end of one of them right there adjacent to the blown out piece. It's possible that the pin began to swell with corrosion and that led to the failure you see there, but that's just speculation on my part. Since the broken off section is no longer serving any useful purpose, I'd try pulling it off to get a look at that pin.

 

There should be as much material behind the pin as there was in front of it, so unless it's blown out too you may not have an oil leak here. But if it was my machine I'd want to disassemble things enough to make sure there were no cracks that went all the way through. If they aren't available(though I suspect they are)gaskets can be made without too much trouble, and then you'd have a good opportunity to change the oil as well.

 

[quiggsdj]

D-jones: Thanks, that sounds reasonable. What oil should I use?

 

[d-jones]

What oil should I use?

That's actually been discussed on this blog several times with lots of varying opinions. As you're already aware the service manual calls out 1 and 3/4 pounds of 56080X, which I believe translates to the newer part number 056080. For all I know there's a newer number as well. Others argue that modern off the shelf substitutes will work just as well if not better. You should be able to find some of these discussions by digging around in the archives a bit. You can actually learn quite a bit by reading through the back and forth comments of some of this blogs heavy weights.

[this post was last edited: 10/27/2013-19:23]

 

[quiggsdj]

Happy Update

On Martha's 60th birthday -- Nov. 6 2013 -- I got her fully up and running. The only hitch was that the house drain couldn't handle her output!

 

[d-jones]

Congratulations and well done! Now you have to tell us all about it and provide photos.

 

[dnastrau]

Pump

Great job!  What did you do about the bad pump?