Advice on washer/dryer/laundry room

Automatic Washer - The world's coolest Washing Machines, Dryers and Dishwashers

Help Support :

Heavy Duty Inlet Hoses For AWs

I see little advantage in SS braided hose coverings, the part that contains the pressurized water is still rubber and can fail.

Whirlpool does not recommend SS covered hoses because they can conduct electricity heat up and melt the inner rubber and FLOOD, they can do the same thing from a lighting strike surging through your homes metal water pipes. I would consider SS covered hoses only if you have a high likelihood of having rodents in your home that might chew through regular hoses.

 

Jim, you should be using liquid chlorine bleach occasionally as this will protect the aluminum spider from a build-up of crap that will allow it to corrode to the point that it breaks. We see broken spiders in the smaller door Frigidaire s every week, but the next generation Frigidaire s have not as many problems with broken spiders.

 

I HAVE NEVER SEEN A BROKEN SPIDER ON A FL WASHER WHERE LCB WAS FREQUENTLY USED.

 

Children are more likely to climb into a dryer than a FL washer, so I would not use that as a reason not to get a FL washer.
 
Can't you get something like AquaStop for the hoses?

Our Bosch and Siemens dishwasher and washing machine both have AquaStop valves.

Basically, there's a box with the solinoid valves inside it at the end of the hose and a tube which includes the rubber hose and an electric cable to activate the valve.

It means that the rubber hose is connected to an open valve in the washing machine and never experiences the full pressure of having to hold back the water mains pressure.

The high pressure (non-flowing) mains is held back by copper piping only. So, the rubber tubing only ever gets exposed to flowing water, rather than the extreme static pressure of the mains.

It also means when the valve is closed and the machine's not filling, the water is shut off at the tap on the wall, and not several feet away inside the machine itself.

These machines also all incorporate a float switch in the base which activates the drain pump should the machine fail with the valves open and overfill.
 
Can't you get something like AquaStop for the hoses?

Very well said!
Now here most of the MOL and TOL machines have it!
Even some of the BOL are starting to adopt waterstop systems!
 
Flooring

With all this debate about hoses, we seem to have left the issue of the floor to one side .....

When you say that you are a one storey condo, do you mean that you are on one level? or do you have two levels? If one level, even if the visible floor is wooden suspended, surely there will be a concrete sub-floor under that? If so it is likely that you will have little problems with vibration for the joists (what the floor boards rest on) will either be bedded in/resting on the concrete or will be close enough that additional support can easily be inserted between the base of the joist and concrete sub-floor.

If you have an upper level, or no sub floor it is still possible to fit in a front loader on a suspended floor as I have done in my current home and have also done previously - I would do this anywhere where a front loader is on a suspended floor, even if there is a concrete sub floor.

You will need to place a thick piece of wood under the machines so that the load is spread as widely as possible over the floor area - in my case I used an offcut of a counter top which is 4cm thick - in this way the load is not confined to the small area of each of the feet of the machine.

In my case the floor under my (FL) washing machine is only "tied" directly into the wall on the right hand side, on the left there is a stud wall with the turn of the stairs and landing on the other. It has been this way for 10 years no with no sign of problems, and there is a wall mounted display cabinet on the other side of the wall from the washer with no "creep" of the contents. There is only occasional vibration from unbalanced loads going into the spin, but not at any other time. I will add that making sure the machine is level on the floor side to side and front to back is vital.

As I am typing this it occurred to me that perhaps a wet room type scenario might be worth considering so that you have a drain in the floor. In this case no matter what type of flood you would have it should drain away no problem - assuming the "wet room" floor was properly installed in the first place. This would also make pulling the machines out for service access and even cleaning much easier than if they were sitting in a "pan". Just a thought.

I really do not know that much about US machines but it seems to me from what I have read here that Speed Queen machines are highly regarded and in your situation would be my choice over a Miele for a long term solution to your query and a front loader should be possible as well.

Good luck with your project

Al
 
Richardtb: you have enough good info here. After having two homes built, and adding my own cabinets and making a pantry within both homes laundry rooms, I can say that, if you're building a laundry room and space isn't an issue, plan on giving yourselves some extra width from the face of the w&d's to the adjacent facing wall. I'm sure you've sketched out some dimensional ideas...not sure what your present layout will allow...but I found that the standard plumbing washer outlet boxes attached to the studs doesn't allow a flusher mount of the washer AND there's a solution that can be accomplished by the architect or, if you look around, yourself, possibly. These are prefab boxes that are tall and are inset into the stud walls, enabling both hoses and vents to reduce protrusion and allow a more flusher mount of the washer and dryer.

If you're putting a counter over the washer and dryer, it doesn't matter...but the 3"or more of space that hoses and possibly, a dryer vent can absorb, MIGHT be a consideration for extending the room size. I /we grew sensitive to that 3-4" loss, especially with front loaders.

Many exceptions are possible - so if my ideas don't apply - either way - hope your project is fun and meets all your needs. Have a good time with it!
 
Answer to vacbear58 and ovrphil

By one story condo, I meant, it is in a high rise, and the entire unit is on one story.

The whole unit is 1720sq ft., so space is an issue! So ovrphil suggestion is helpful.

In the high rise, all the utilities run underneath the floor [plumbing, electrical run underneath the entire condominium, this is why I can put the laundry room anyplace I want]. So, there is a concrete subfloor, but below the utilities.

I am really confused by the suggestion of getting a "thick piece of wood under the machines so that the load is spread as widely as possible over the floor area"
Wouldn't that be the same thing as having the washer on top of hardwood floor?

Incidentally, part of the reason why I originally posted on automaticwasher.org is
that in my old house we bought at Bosch FL, and we were never able to fully stabilize it. We now have in storage if anyone is interested in buying it! :)
 
Floor

Richard

Your wife gets the prize, that is exactly what I was getting at.

In your case I would do what we say "belt and braces" (suspenders to you) and insert wood fillers between the base of the joists and the sub-floor. You do not need to do the whole area, just under where the washer and dryer will be. Nor do you need necessarily to do the whole joist but short pieces which can be inserted around the utilities. This should be reasonably simple and inexpensive to do.

I do think it is still wise to put a board under the washer and drier to help spread the load across the joists. In a way its like a stiletto heel, if you imagine the size of the individual feet of the washer sitting directly on the floor bearing the weight of the machine - the load is concentrated in four, very small areas. Using the wood (and I would use thicker myself but if you can brace the joists to the floor that will be a big help) helps spread that same load over a much larger area.

Below is a picture of how my machine is set up (dryer is stacked on top of the washer and my washer spins at a max of 1400rpm) - the floor covering is tile effect laminate over a suspended floor - I hope this helps.

Al

vacbear58++6-26-2013-13-20-40.jpg
 
Visited speed queen dealer

A visited the only place in town that sells speed queens. He warned us that because of federal mandates machine had to be discontinued in 5 years, and so he is concerned about whether we are going to be able to get parts after that.

He recommended that I get a Whirlpool duet.
 
Discontinuation is not surprising. The 2018 TL energy standards are quite difficult to meet. The 2018 standards are the same as today's energy star. Any machine family that does not have an energy star member will be disappearing. The energy requirements for 2015 may cause some of today's machines to disappear but 2018 will be much tougher.
 
answer to frontloaderfan

The store only sells the TL model, so I did not discuss to FL. Sorry.

The store also sells Miele & Bosch and he implied that he would not be surprised if both of these companies stop selling washer & driers when the new driers standard come up that limit fire hazards.
 
SQ FL Washers

Are Energy-Star machines now and will not be discontinued in 5 years and I predict that SQ will still be making the TL washers in 5 years as well, they may not be selling them in the US however. I would bet that any SQ laundry product being built today will have better parts availability than most if not all WP laundry products being sold today in 10-15-20 years from now.
 
i was refering to my old 2004 duet its a first generation but what i do not like about it is the fact that i do not have a quick wash cycle on it and also for me du to my size near 6 inch tall i have to sit down to load unload the washer and also my laundy room is on the second floor so when the washer go into spin i hear it from the first floor and also when i have to use hand wash or delicate cycle the washer do not do a first spin to spin out the sud it fills directly for a rinse
 
DONT GET WHIRLPOOL!!!

Here in Germany "Bauknecht" is a oftenly sold brand, made by Whirlpool. And really, machines bought 5 years ago broke down in 90% of all cases. Whirlpool are one of these "Buy them, use them 3 years, get a new one" brands. And, even if Miele would stop producing them, parts would be avaible still. But these are quite expensive in deed after 15+ years.
 
response to henene4

Well, I am limited in choices since my wife will not allow me to buy anything which is less then 3.3 cu. ft., so that knocks out the Miele and the SQ FL.

I called AJ Madison and the salesperson recommended the Maytag Maxima.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top