Beautiful KitchenAid washer/dryer set

[blockeight88]

Bad news...

So apparently the shaft on the motor is bad and the coupler will not stay on. I gently tried to hammer it but it keeps sliding off. The shaft appears to be stripped (not sure how that happened). The worst part is the motor (part number 3350418) is NLA. I have checked and even eBay doesn't have any. So I guess this washer will need to sit until I can find one. Not sure what's different compered to the 3-speed motor WP is currently offering.  Checked FB marketplace and there is a 3-speed KA branded motor (part number 8529936) that is available. Not sure if this would work? Maybe someone can advise?

 

Original part: <span style="font-size: 12pt;">3350418</span>

<span style="font-size: 12pt;">Substitute part: </span><span style="font-size: 12pt;">8529936</span>

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[blockeight88]

Round motor shaft

Yep, its shot. I was able to hammer the new coupler on like all the way. Obviously this is a temporary fix. 

 

[DADoES]

 
Someone on a servicer message board a couple years ago devised a work-around for the problem of coupler-damaged motor shafts.  I have photos saved but I'm hesitant to post all of them here because it's a closed discussion board, accessible only by paid subscription.

The fix is drill a hole through the motor shaft to accomodate a sturdy fine-thread (machine) screw.  A screw from a conduit clamp such as this was used.  Tap matching threads into the motor shaft.  Likewise drill a hole into one of the coupler halves (through the metal insert) for anchoring it to the shaft with the screw.  Use blue Loc-tite to further secure the screw from loosening.  One "leg" of the other half of the coupler may be need to be trimmed a smidgen to accommodate the screw head.

There was no follow-up as to the long-term durability but the motor is essentially otherwise unusable so what's to lose other than some time, effort, and cost of the materials and a tap-and-die set.

 

[combo52]

Whirlpool direct drive drive couplers

When whirlpool beefed up the drive coupler and put the metal insert in it it was stronger and more durable, but unfortunately, they tend to work loose a little bit, mostly on the motor side occasionally on the transmission side and ruin the motor shaft or the transmission input shaft.

if you have a vintage direct drive washer that you want to keep running you may want to use only the All plastic original style drive couplings that we use no danger of ruining your motor shaft .

This is an unfortunate situation because it ruins an otherwise perfectly good and expensive and hard to find motor, I’m hoping that somebody will come up with a steel drive coupling and you could take it and have it tack welded onto the motor when this happens and then save the motor, I may have to talk to my youngest brother who works at a machine shop to see how hard it would be to make a metal drive coupling that could be welded onto the motor.

Best thing you can do for now is use the plastic drive coupling if you care about your motor, assuming the shaft is still in good shape .

John

 

[blockeight88]

Motor shaft drilling

Glen, that is pretty interesting. I might have to consider that if all else fails.

 

John, are the plastic couplers still available to purchase? I know the older circular style isn't. I will try that first and see what my results are. Of course, I'll still be on the lookout for a motor replacement. 

 

[blockeight88]

I'm not seeing any OEM plastic insert couplers. This is all I could find. I was told never use a non OEM coupler. 

 

https://www.amazon.com/Coupler-repl...0b2ef3a6694d58a4a07e01282&psc=1&tag=hyprod-20

 

[combo52]

Reply number 41 stripped motor shaft repair

Hi Glenn, it looks like we posted it almost the same time that looks like a pretty clever repair that might have a chance of working for a good while, if I were going to install a coupler this way, I would also make sure everything‘s very clean and use it very high strength epoxy to keep it from moving slightly and starting to wear and strip out or otherwise work loose.

I don’t know if there’s enough demand for this repair, but as I mentioned in my thread, if someone came up with a steel one, it could be welded to the shaft, you could also make a steel one clamp securely to the motor by drilling a hole through the shaft as your fix Showed. Either way there’s many ways to keep these durable machines running.

John

 

[blockeight88]

John do you have a link to where you can buy the plastic style coupler? 

 

[combo52]

Older style plastic dry couplers

I’m sure they’re out there somewhere. I would just use used ones or buy the imitation ones. They’ll work for a while probably.

The other thing that might help would be to epoxy the metal insert couplers on the motor shaft in the first place it would probably keep them from working loose and ruining the shaft.

John

 

[blockeight88]

I will definitely be replacing the metal insert coupler on my other machines with the plastic one.  I also smelled what appeared to be a burning rubber smell on the KA machine after agitation/spin. I still think this motor is probably shot.

 

[DADoES]

 
Two replies to the screw-fix post said epoxy filler had been attempted (without an anchor screw) and it didn't last a month on any of several attempts.  Epoxy filler with an anchor screw, of course, is a different scenario.

 

[combo52]

Hi Glenn, yes that’s what I was trying to convey. I would only use the epoxy on one that already fit tightly or was screwed in place.

Using epoxy on one that’s already stripped the motor shaft would probably not work. I wouldn’t waste the time trying.

 

[blockeight88]

New old style coupler

Got the older style round coupler on both the motor & gearcase shaft. Its definitely a lot tighter on the motor shaft. Tested things out in on a dry agitate / spin, no weird or unusual noises. I think I'll stick this machine back in use tomorrow and really test her out. I'll post the video here.