Brady Green Whirlpools
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decodriveboy
Member
We had one of these in white
And I never understood the Perm Press cycle. After the main wash, it would partially drain, then sit, and fill up again, even with the old wash water still in it, and then continue. We always figured it was broken somehow.
And I never understood the Perm Press cycle. After the main wash, it would partially drain, then sit, and fill up again, even with the old wash water still in it, and then continue. We always figured it was broken somehow.
Taht was exactly how the PP cycle was supposed to work. It was the gradual cool down. That aws explained in the user's manual.
danelto
Well-known member
Knob in or knob out
Question: Is this washer a push to stop/pull to start or vice versa?
I believe some Whirlpools were pull to stop--am I correct?
dan
Question: Is this washer a push to stop/pull to start or vice versa?
I believe some Whirlpools were pull to stop--am I correct?
dan
Dan you are correct. These were pull to stop & push to start. So were Kenmores of the same era. Our 1970 Kenmore 800 was pull to stop/push to start.
Whirlpool!
Wow these are a beauty
Peter
Wow these are a beauty
Peter
jasonl
New member
Ditto
It was around 73 or 74 when the KM's and 'pools went to pull=start, push=stop.
I remember this cause my aunt had a 73'ish KM and she tried to wash clothes on our 800. She pushed the timer in and turned it around. You can just imaging the clanking going on as she ran it through all its gears in 2 second. So 8 or 9 year old me had to 'splain how to PROPERLY start the beautiful 800.
It was around 73 or 74 when the KM's and 'pools went to pull=start, push=stop.
I remember this cause my aunt had a 73'ish KM and she tried to wash clothes on our 800. She pushed the timer in and turned it around. You can just imaging the clanking going on as she ran it through all its gears in 2 second. So 8 or 9 year old me had to 'splain how to PROPERLY start the beautiful 800.
On Permanent Press cycles: I couldn't understand why my PP tablecloths were coming out FAR more wrinkled when washed in my TL'er, which has an anemic 525 rpm spin (approx), as compared to when I wash it in my FL'er, which spins at 1000.
I think I figured it out: The TL'er doesn't do a cool down before the first spin. In fact, it's a worst case scenario: The hot load goes into a spin, which is subsequently drenched with a long, ice cold spray rinse. This sets in wrinkles. The FL'er does a cold suds-kill before the first spin, so wrinkles aren't set in during the first spin.
I think I figured it out: The TL'er doesn't do a cool down before the first spin. In fact, it's a worst case scenario: The hot load goes into a spin, which is subsequently drenched with a long, ice cold spray rinse. This sets in wrinkles. The FL'er does a cold suds-kill before the first spin, so wrinkles aren't set in during the first spin.
jasonl
New member
I noticed no visible lid switch. Did these use the mercury ones as well?
Jason, yes.
This particular specimen is pull start / push stop. There's engraving on edge of the console beneath the timer that says so.
decodriveboy
Member
Bob
What do you think was their reasoning behind the machine not doing a full drain before the cool down refill? Why add fresh water to remaining dirty water from the main wash?
What do you think was their reasoning behind the machine not doing a full drain before the cool down refill? Why add fresh water to remaining dirty water from the main wash?
Perm Press fabrics back then were made with a resin coating (now days it's built into the fibers of the fabric). Anyway, heat is what relaxed fabrics and warmer & hotter temps were used a lot more back then. Whirlpool did two partial drains & fills with cold water for the cool-down phase. Particularly if hot water wash was used, fabric finish could be "shocked" going form very hot to cold. This gradual cool down help eliminate the shcok that mich result in set in wrinkles. Keep in m8ind, this wash'7n'wear cycle feature was brought out by Whirlpool in 1957 or 1958 and was very useful for those who ione dried. Not as much needed for those whith dryers as times progressed. But also keep in mind, after the 2nd cool down partial drain, fill, and 2 minute agitate, the machine completely drained of water and then did a slow spin for 2 minutes with 4 5 or 7 second spray rinses, cold water. So dirty water did not remain in the machine after the awsh & cool-down phase were completed. Your mom probably never let the initial cool-down complete its part of the cycle when she thought the machine was broken (hmm, this kidna sounds like Jason's mom. I wonder if they werre related. By the way, do you have older Kenmoer/Whirlpool cooldown phase addiction like Jason) 
?
Also note on this particular WP, normal agitation shifted to gentle agitation on the PP cycle at the 6 minute mark in wash and also had a gentle agitation for rinse.
?Also note on this particular WP, normal agitation shifted to gentle agitation on the PP cycle at the 6 minute mark in wash and also had a gentle agitation for rinse.
The Perm Press cycle was designed to cool the fabrics slowly from a hot or warm wash to a cold rinse. Hot wash to relax the perm press finish in order to shed wrinkles, then cooling while the fabric floats loosely to "set" the original wrinkle-free finish before any compression occurs during spin. Partial drain of the hot or warm wash (to the point that the pressure switch resets), refill with cold agitate. Repeat. Slow spin. Deep rinse. Slow final spin.
Of course, for loads sent to a dryer, the drying cycle basically did the same thing, so one could argue whether the extra water used in the washer was needed at all.
Whirlpool and Kenmore had variations of the cool-down sequence over the years. Repeated partial drains and refills without any agitation. Some Kenmore models agitated *during* the cold refills. There was a Knit cycle for several years that had a single-stage cool down, with Perm Press still doing the double. When conservation awareness became fashionable, the double cool-down was reduced to one.
Some brands that did a spin-drain (such as GE) made do with a cold spray that started *immediately* when the post-wash spin began.
My Maytag A906 spin-drains, but does have a partial drain, refill, and brief agitation. I haven't yet determined if the drain is controlled by time or by pressure switch reset.
My F&Ps both do a *complete* drain, then refill and brief agitation.
Of course, for loads sent to a dryer, the drying cycle basically did the same thing, so one could argue whether the extra water used in the washer was needed at all.
Whirlpool and Kenmore had variations of the cool-down sequence over the years. Repeated partial drains and refills without any agitation. Some Kenmore models agitated *during* the cold refills. There was a Knit cycle for several years that had a single-stage cool down, with Perm Press still doing the double. When conservation awareness became fashionable, the double cool-down was reduced to one.
Some brands that did a spin-drain (such as GE) made do with a cold spray that started *immediately* when the post-wash spin began.
My Maytag A906 spin-drains, but does have a partial drain, refill, and brief agitation. I haven't yet determined if the drain is controlled by time or by pressure switch reset.
My F&Ps both do a *complete* drain, then refill and brief agitation.
EEEK! Double-post!
Glenn, great minds think alike across Texas, BUT I BEAT YA!!!!
launderess
Well-known member
On my Miele, the PP cycle at the first set of "rinses" begins by adding cold water while tumbling, draining a bit, add more cold water, tumble, drain... for several times. This is as opposed to the normal cycle which adds cold water only once at the end of the wash/first rinse; then draining.
Purpose of all this palaver is that even cotton or linen textile can experience thermal shock if water temps go from hot (or in the case of Miele's very hot water of up to 200F), to cold too quickly. Even commercial washers have methods to gradually bring wash temperatures down.
Today's man made textiles, especially polyester are thermoplastic, that is heat can damage and or cause permanent creases/marks if the material is manipulated while it is hot or warm. My Miele does not spin between rinses during the PP cycle, and only has a short final spin.
Problem is polyester does not shed oils/muck easily, thus cold water or even warm may not keep it clean and bright, especially whites. I wash poly and poly blends at 120F (IIRC my Miele's manual recommends up to 140F or maybe 180F when using the PP cycle), to get good cleaning and bleaching (with oxygen bleach), results. Happily the PP program ensures that by the time the machine reaches the final rinse everything is quite cold.
L.
Purpose of all this palaver is that even cotton or linen textile can experience thermal shock if water temps go from hot (or in the case of Miele's very hot water of up to 200F), to cold too quickly. Even commercial washers have methods to gradually bring wash temperatures down.
Today's man made textiles, especially polyester are thermoplastic, that is heat can damage and or cause permanent creases/marks if the material is manipulated while it is hot or warm. My Miele does not spin between rinses during the PP cycle, and only has a short final spin.
Problem is polyester does not shed oils/muck easily, thus cold water or even warm may not keep it clean and bright, especially whites. I wash poly and poly blends at 120F (IIRC my Miele's manual recommends up to 140F or maybe 180F when using the PP cycle), to get good cleaning and bleaching (with oxygen bleach), results. Happily the PP program ensures that by the time the machine reaches the final rinse everything is quite cold.
L.
scott55405
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Glenn, how old do you think these are, maybe 1975 or so? Must have been more upper end since as I recall very few Whirlpool dryers had the Kenmore style door at that time.
Older than 1975. 1975 would be the LDE series.
This would be maybe between 1968 and 1971.
This would be maybe between 1968 and 1971.
scott55405
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Ah, thanks!
captainmoody
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Here's a pic of my 1970 Imperial Mark XII taken last year. I would like some day to find the matching dryer for this green panelled baby!
Until then, the '78 will have to do.
This is one of the quietest wp's I have, must be because of that 3/8 fake woodgrain fiber board on front!
Until then, the '78 will have to do.
This is one of the quietest wp's I have, must be because of that 3/8 fake woodgrain fiber board on front!
Oh Dwight that Whirlpool washer above is so UGLY it's downright beautiful. Very cool find!
The woodpanel Whirly probably also has the QuietPak design -- different rubber grommets for the motor mount and the thin belt.
captainmoody
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I bought the "whirly woodie" at an estate sale last summer. Have had to do nothing to it as far as repairs either!
The funny part about it was when I was at the sale, some people kept trying to open the front panel, actually thinking it was a door of some sorts!
The funny part about it was when I was at the sale, some people kept trying to open the front panel, actually thinking it was a door of some sorts!
I believe this is the match (but in coppertone), seen in John Lefever's warehouse.
The door converts between side-swing and drop-down. Sorry I don't have a full-view pic of it.
toggleswitch
Well-known member
Now THAT is a very KEWL feature!
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