grnappliance
Well-known member
The pump shield.
Champion (Parnall) Spin-Washer - Disassembly.
- Thread starter grnappliance
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grnappliance
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This is the lid & top of the machine, which are especially shiny.
grnappliance
Well-known member
The cabinet itself turned out fine, apart from a small spot that I tried to fix while it was drying; It ended up spider-webbing.
grnappliance
Well-known member
Finally, the upper back plate. I preserved the paper during the painting process.
grnappliance
Well-known member
All thanks to Rustolium Appliance Epoxy, which I now highly recommend.
grnappliance
Well-known member
Transmission Update
Secondly, I went ahead and disassembled the machine's gearbox. I took it outside and used my degreaser to degrease the case and the gears. I scraped away the gunk on the outside of the case and finished it off with my metal sponge. After giving the gears some attention, I put them back in the case, and this is how things are looking now:
Secondly, I went ahead and disassembled the machine's gearbox. I took it outside and used my degreaser to degrease the case and the gears. I scraped away the gunk on the outside of the case and finished it off with my metal sponge. After giving the gears some attention, I put them back in the case, and this is how things are looking now:
grnappliance
Well-known member
I also bought the correct size hoses for my water valve, which has a clamp-on input.
grnappliance
Well-known member
Power Cord
Finally, I put together a new plug for my machine.
After running some tests, I can confirm that the timer, motor, and pump on the machine are fully functional. The 'Power On' light is burnt out, but the 'Wash Finished' light does work. I might post clips of those tests later, but here's a picture of the new plug.
Finally, I put together a new plug for my machine.
After running some tests, I can confirm that the timer, motor, and pump on the machine are fully functional. The 'Power On' light is burnt out, but the 'Wash Finished' light does work. I might post clips of those tests later, but here's a picture of the new plug.
grnappliance
Well-known member
What's Next
The cleaning phase of the job is pretty much complete now. Now, I'll start slowly reassembling the machine.
Does someone know what weight of oil I can use for the gearbox and how much to put in it?
The cleaning phase of the job is pretty much complete now. Now, I'll start slowly reassembling the machine.
Does someone know what weight of oil I can use for the gearbox and how much to put in it?
Great job!
Champion Parnall Spinwasher
Hi Gabriel , your doing a grand job of the complete restoration of your Champion machine,
I think the type of oil and amount will be in the service documentation that Darren sent to you , think its Shell Truco oil ?
Look forward to seeing the finished result.
Cheers, Mike
Hi Gabriel , your doing a grand job of the complete restoration of your Champion machine,
I think the type of oil and amount will be in the service documentation that Darren sent to you , think its Shell Truco oil ?
Look forward to seeing the finished result.
Cheers, Mike
grnappliance
Well-known member
Gear Oil
I did a Google search for "Shell Trochus Oil" as well as the alternatives "Shell J50" and "Carnea 69", but I did not find any relevant results. I believe that any brand of gear oil will work for the transmission, but I just need to find out what weight it requires.
I did a Google search for "Shell Trochus Oil" as well as the alternatives "Shell J50" and "Carnea 69", but I did not find any relevant results. I believe that any brand of gear oil will work for the transmission, but I just need to find out what weight it requires.
slowspin66
Well-known member
Excellent progress
It’s coming a long REALLY good . You’ve done a fabulous job it has to be said .. if you carnt get the shell trocus I would get some advice as to what would be the best thing . Ask at an oil / hydraulic workshop local to you . As for the wash light what about replacing with an LED . Just a thought . Lovely to see your on the home stretch . Darren
It’s coming a long REALLY good . You’ve done a fabulous job it has to be said .. if you carnt get the shell trocus I would get some advice as to what would be the best thing . Ask at an oil / hydraulic workshop local to you . As for the wash light what about replacing with an LED . Just a thought . Lovely to see your on the home stretch . Darren
grnappliance
Well-known member
Oil confusions
I went to Supercheap Auto and asked an expert there about a modern alternative to Shell Trochus, Shell J50, or Carnea 69. However, after looking, we never found a suitable replacement for any of them. We did find a cross-referencing chart, but it did not mention any of the oils, probably due to their age.
Is there perhaps an oil expert here who can recommend a gear oil?
I went to Supercheap Auto and asked an expert there about a modern alternative to Shell Trochus, Shell J50, or Carnea 69. However, after looking, we never found a suitable replacement for any of them. We did find a cross-referencing chart, but it did not mention any of the oils, probably due to their age.
Is there perhaps an oil expert here who can recommend a gear oil?
Is it critical to use the exact oil?
I'd be asking some current oil manufacturers, like Shell, Castrol, Penrite.
Penrite have a great reputation and I have heard many times (on a classic car forum) that they have a really helpful technical department.
I have done a bit of googling for you, looking for equivalents to your list in the post above. I got a bit of info when searching for "carnea 69 oil equivalent."
It seems there is an equivalent modern Shell product, Shell Morlina S2 B 150. It seems to be available in 44 gallon drums for thousands of dollars each! EEK.
It also lists a generic match, Vitrea Oil 150 as a specification.
I have done a bit more searching and it seems this is a very basic, low cost machine oil, in other words, nothing special.
That's why I'd contact a company like Penrite's technical advice department, tell them what you are doing, and ask their advice. I suspect that many modern oils, including automotive engine oils and gear oils, will do what you need and be a way better product that what was used originally in your washing machine.
One thing to watch is if there are any bronze bushes/bearings in the transmission, then the oil company needs to know about this. I understand that modern car gear oils (used in manual car transmissions) have additives that destroy phosphor-bronze bushes. This is a problem for old (1960s) Peugeot worm-drive differentials, which have bronze bushes in them. From the photos above I think I can see a bronze bush in your transmission.
I have now just found this...
https://penriteoil.com.au/forums/to.../Marine gear oil safe on bronze bushes?page=1
Which again makes me suggest - talk to Penrite.
I'd be asking some current oil manufacturers, like Shell, Castrol, Penrite.
Penrite have a great reputation and I have heard many times (on a classic car forum) that they have a really helpful technical department.
I have done a bit of googling for you, looking for equivalents to your list in the post above. I got a bit of info when searching for "carnea 69 oil equivalent."
It seems there is an equivalent modern Shell product, Shell Morlina S2 B 150. It seems to be available in 44 gallon drums for thousands of dollars each! EEK.
It also lists a generic match, Vitrea Oil 150 as a specification.
I have done a bit more searching and it seems this is a very basic, low cost machine oil, in other words, nothing special.
That's why I'd contact a company like Penrite's technical advice department, tell them what you are doing, and ask their advice. I suspect that many modern oils, including automotive engine oils and gear oils, will do what you need and be a way better product that what was used originally in your washing machine.
One thing to watch is if there are any bronze bushes/bearings in the transmission, then the oil company needs to know about this. I understand that modern car gear oils (used in manual car transmissions) have additives that destroy phosphor-bronze bushes. This is a problem for old (1960s) Peugeot worm-drive differentials, which have bronze bushes in them. From the photos above I think I can see a bronze bush in your transmission.
I have now just found this...
https://penriteoil.com.au/forums/to.../Marine gear oil safe on bronze bushes?page=1
Which again makes me suggest - talk to Penrite.
Chris is right. Penrite are the bomb. I needed a long obsolete Shell oil for the bronze bushes in my Malleys, I emailed penrite and they came back with a non detergent oil for vintage motorcycle shock absorbers that was apparently a modern equivalent. It cost me $25 to order online.
grnappliance
Well-known member
Well, I contacted Penrite via email this morning. They just wrote back saying they have no equivalent to the products I mentioned. They suggested that I contact Shell to determine if their products are suitable for my requirements. I might do that later today.
If Shell doesn't have an alternative oil, I might just purchase a 90-weight Penrite oil and be done with it. It would still be nice, though, if I could have the certainty of putting the correct oil into my machine, so I'll keep trying.
If Shell doesn't have an alternative oil, I might just purchase a 90-weight Penrite oil and be done with it. It would still be nice, though, if I could have the certainty of putting the correct oil into my machine, so I'll keep trying.
grnappliance
Well-known member
Back in buisness
After discussing oils with a few other collectors, I was able to settle on purchasing Penrite Transoil 90 gear oil. It's a non-corrosive GL-1 oil that should perform well in the transmission. The size of the gearcase required me to buy three 1-liter bottles of it.
With the oil taken care of, I started reassembling the machine again. I applied a gasket-maker to the edges of the gearcase and screwed it back onto the inner tub. I haven't poured the oil in yet because the tub is now very heavy. I'll do that once it's back inside of the outer tub.
After that, I screwed the outer tub back onto the base, later followed by the motor, capacitor, pressure container, and pump. The pump screws are replacements since the original ones snapped in half. It's nice to see the base mostly back together and looking nice!
That is my progress at the moment, and I'll continue putting it back together in the next reply. I'll do the snubber seal next.
After discussing oils with a few other collectors, I was able to settle on purchasing Penrite Transoil 90 gear oil. It's a non-corrosive GL-1 oil that should perform well in the transmission. The size of the gearcase required me to buy three 1-liter bottles of it.
With the oil taken care of, I started reassembling the machine again. I applied a gasket-maker to the edges of the gearcase and screwed it back onto the inner tub. I haven't poured the oil in yet because the tub is now very heavy. I'll do that once it's back inside of the outer tub.
After that, I screwed the outer tub back onto the base, later followed by the motor, capacitor, pressure container, and pump. The pump screws are replacements since the original ones snapped in half. It's nice to see the base mostly back together and looking nice!
That is my progress at the moment, and I'll continue putting it back together in the next reply. I'll do the snubber seal next.
washer agitation
How does this washer agitate?
How does this washer agitate?
grnappliance
Well-known member
Inner tub enters the outer tub
What a tough job this turned out to be! Not only did I find myself reinstalling the agitator tube for hand support, but I also had to get another person to help me guide the tub through the sleeve bearings. The weight of the tub is too much for one person to handle, even without the gear oil. I'm very glad to have the tub back in its place!
What a tough job this turned out to be! Not only did I find myself reinstalling the agitator tube for hand support, but I also had to get another person to help me guide the tub through the sleeve bearings. The weight of the tub is too much for one person to handle, even without the gear oil. I'm very glad to have the tub back in its place!
