Cold Wash Warm Rinse Cycle

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Chetlaham

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Are there any washers made that could offer cold wash with a warm rinse, even inadvertently? Are there any possible merits or advantages to having a cold wash with a warm rinse? Cold wash, warm spray rinse? 

 

 

I'm thinking of such a combination as an option for maybe a hand-wash or hang dry cycle however I am unsure if its even worth considering.
 
Dan, this is what I came up with. I'm debating on calling the cold/warm cycle "hang dry" Otherwise I am unsure what fabric works best with cold/warm.

 

 

 

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The only fabric of which I'm aware that laundry doctrine calls for a warm rinse ... or whatever same temp as the wash ... is wool, to avoid shrinkage from thermal shock during (minimal) agitation.  My F&P machines run rinse at the same selected temp as wash (tap-cold, controlled cold, cool/warm- or warm, warm+ and hot are not available) on the designated Woolens cycle.  All other cycles are hard-coded for cold rinse.
 
Well I don't see why this shouldn't be discussed...

If you have certain fabrics or want to make this a personal preference, then why not...

Interesting to learn if it was ever natively offered with any washer as standard settings or you luckily can set on whatever machines ever offered separate wash and rinse temperatures that combination...

Or I can picture on your GE, setting the toggle switches...

-- Dave
 
Dave, I think that John meant that he doesn't see a point in doing a warm rinse, except with wool. I don't think he meant that he doesn't see a point in discussing it!

The only time I ever select a warm rinse (which is not very often) is only for the spray rinse when I want the spray rinse to open the cold AND hot valves, resulting in about twice the amount of water flowing through during the spray rinse for (perhaps) some rinsing improvement. I then switch back to cold rinse for the deep rinse.

My Maytag A806 allows selection of cold wash and warm rinse. I think my Kenmore Electronic 90 Series does too but I'd have to test it and see what happens.

I used to have a Miele W1 that heated the rinse water on QuickPowerWash but I never tested using cold wash to see if it would still heat the rinse water without heating the wash water.

Mark
 
Yes, I see...

Never thought of doing a cold wash on any of my machines, then returning to it to switch the rinse to warm--never did that type of washing...

But I did have a washer without a warm wash/warm rinse combination... An almond early-'90's Maytag built like the later-'80's models...

I would briefly move the temperature to the only available on hot wash/warm rinse setting until the washer filled, then returned it to the warm/cold so I'd know that I'd at least know the laundry was done in warm water which would be warm from the rinse it got removed from...

-- Dave
 
@agiflow- I should have included a cycle matrix and wiring sheet here but there is so much going on with the circuitry and cycle increments that following dozens of ever changing  nodes becomes exhaustively confusing.

 

 

To answer your question all of the 48 increments, 7.5 degree advancement, 60 seconds per step are fixed in time and duration. The wash period is always 14 minutes from start to end of agitation. The variables come from the "fabric type selector" switch which controls temperature, speed and duration of motor run.

 

For example, with the selector set to "Heavy Duty" the washer would fill with hot water, agitate on high for the full 14 minutes, and rinse in warm water. On "Delicate" the washer would fill with cold water, agitate 2 minutes on low, soak 4 minutes, agitate 2 minutes on low, soak 4 minutes, then agitate on low for 2 minutes before proceeding to drain and spin.  

 

Time is tracked by watching the knob advance clockwise while into the cycle.

 

 

I prefer EM to electronics. You can get many different wash, time, speed, sequences, cycles and varying combinations on top of those by adding or deducting various timer contacts controlling the desired device. Think of Kenmore's (and commercial washers) greatest success beside the DA agitator.   
 
John, do you mean cold/warm rinse combinations or warm rinsing in general?

 

Warm rinsing relaxes fabric being better at detergent extraction and prevents soaps from re-depositing on fabrics.

 

Personally I think all none permanent press and all none fine delicate items should be rinsed in warm water. 

 

 

Whirlpool agrees to the merits, commercial resource saver washers use an ATC warm rinse on the regular cycle.

 

 

 

 

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Honestly, just getting a tempering valve and setting it on the warmer side of the cold, like 90F, will significantly enhance both washing and rinsing performance instead of fooling around with a warm rinse to accomplish better rinsing. Most people are washing and rinsing their cold, and probably warm items, in water that's far too cold anyway, especially in the north. 100F is kind of the overall agreed temperature of warm and 90F is pretty darn close to that.
 
Reply #13:

I meant I had to use the Hot/Warm combination in order to obtain a Warm Rinse with the Warm Wash only available with a Cold Rinse in my post...

Must not have made that clarified... So I hope this helps!

-- Dave
 
 
I believe warm rinsing isn't so much a thing with synthetic detergents as it was with soaps.

I expect ATC warm rinse on machines that offer it is not more than 70°F.  75°F is the target on a 1999 KM I have.  ATC cold wash is 70°F.  The two ATC choices with cold rinse have the rinse being tap-cold, not controlled.

A 2002/03 WP GSQ9669 has two AccuWash selections, neither states temps.  The feature info says Warm/Cold wash is 100°F, Cold/Cold wash 75°F ... so presumably rinse in both instances is tap-cold.

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Dan, probably because of energy regulations and doctored lab test results. Cold rinsing might be ok down south, but not up north during the winter. People don't know better and just assume the machine is more capable at being smart than they are.

 

 

Easiest work around is just energizing both valves at the same time during rinse. Close off the hot valve for fabrics that can't handle it like silk and colors.
 
Tempering valve is EXACTLY what you're looking for! Seriously, get one and have your mind blown.

It mixes water to whatever temp you want from 80F-120F, all of the mixing is done BEFORE it goes to your water valve. No stupid cold/hot alternating garbage most ATC equipped top loading washers have that're unprecise in temps and fade colors when hot water hits colored fabrics. I've been using one for 18 years and not a single problem yet. In your area, it will probably be functional all year. It also functions during on the "Warm" setting by brining up the cold water to the set temperature plus hot water output. This produces rock solid cold and warm temperatures all year 'round.

I put a "Y" on my tempering valve outlet valve so I can feed one line to the washer and the other for the wringer washers. I have fed the wringer washer line to a garden hose and washed my cars with 85F-87F water temps which helps break down dirt quicker.

Here's one for super cheap on Ebay

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3567019254...oi6jZvIFW6UOWzSPltsCHpOBc=|tkp:Bk9SR9TVl_25ZQ
 
Reply 8

Pat, you know I like EM timers!

 

 

 

Here is the cycle and timing sequence for the washer in reply #4 

 

 

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I've included the wiring diagram for the selector switches-

 

 

 

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"Right, but if I want a 140*F hot wash?"

Then select "Hot" and the washer gets tap hot water directly to the hot side of the water valve from the water heater like a traditional setup.

The tempering valve has 3 hookups. Cold water is fed to one side of the valve directly from the cold water tap and hot water to the other side from the hot water tap. The third (lower) connection feeds the tempered water directly to the cold water valve of the washer. ALL cold water use is tempered whether you select cold or warm. A "Y" connection at the hot water tap is require to feed 2 lines of water. One line going directly to the hot water valve of the washer and the other line to the hot side of tempering valve. You still get tap hot going directly to the hot water valve of the washer. There is no tradeoff.
 
The Ebay link is not jiving with this website for some odd reason. I'll have to email the link to you directly.
 
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