Hot Wash Cold Rinse Cycle?

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Yes Chet. My 2005 built KitchenAid dumbs down the water temperature for warm also.
Even on rinse it is on the more cold side even without using the "sensor Sure" warm or cold. At least the one option I have for a hot water wash is straight hot.
The 85 Whirlpool supreme only gives you one option for a warm rinse as Hot/Warm and the rinse water is an even mix I'm pretty sure and with the 74 Kenmore 70 there are two options for warm rinse but the warm/ warm seems to be a little cooler on the Kenmore.
 

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Consider yourself lucky. Latter Kenmore / Whirlpool / Estate / Roper ect would do a cold rinse with a warm spray when set to warm/warm. Sometimes it was labelled such on the control panel, other times it was not which I always thought was deceptive and misleading on the latter.


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What a difference it makes having a 50/50 unrestricted hot and cold, you don't have to wait 8 minutes for the wash basket to fill on the hot setting.

70/30 valves wreck the timed fill concept too. You either have to start agitating with the tub partially full or have to wait 5 minutes before the start of agitation on warm or cold after the pressure switch is satisfied.

Question. Does your 1985 Whirlpool bypass the hot/warm setting on either soak, pre-wash, permanent press of spray rinse? Are the sprays warm or cold on the normal cycle?
 
Chet is this your current machine ? I just bought this exact model a couple of weeks ago. It's from 1998 or that's when it was built, August 1998. I need to get the tub out of it and get a replacement spin basket. Cosmetically the machine looks pretty good and cleaned up nice. I think this has the dual action Plus agitator in it also.

Edit: I should have looked closer but mine does not have the ultra rinse. Wish it did. The Kenmore 90 serious I purchased back in March of 2003 had that. Was a great machine and I got rid of it because the stupid plug broke off it and got that junk Maytag Bravos X.
 
There are some benefits to cold rinsing (permanent press/knit etc), but for whatever reason, items fell softer when rinsed in warm water with some fabric softener.

Since I’ll have two TOL sets (My Maytag 806 and Whirlpool Mark 18 set) that allow me to manipulate the controls and options, will be able to curtail and customize the controls for the particular load that’s being washed which will further reduce wear and tear on items not to mention the machine itself.

I think if all machines had the options of a TOL Maytag A806 or Whirlpool Imperial Mark 18, certain types of items would last a long, long time along with reducing electricity consumption a little since the machine isn’t constantly going 90 mph along with being able to utilize the gentle wash with fast spin. I’m sure all owners of Maytag 806’s put the gentle wash with fast spin to use since you could not only reduce fabric wear, but speed up the drying process as well.
 
DADoES said:
Warm water rinsed better for soap back in the day. It's not necessary with synthetic detergents.
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Glenn who gets to tell people that though ? You, big brother, EPA, DOE ? That isn't just an opinion... It is quite literally being forced on us. If I want to use a truly 50/50 warm rinse why can't I today ? Point is is that choice should not be taken away and that is exactly what has been happening slowly but surely.
 
I can appreciate all the above posts on this subject!
I love my old 1984 vintage Maytag A482, however it's one of those with a "cold only" rinse provision.
After attempting to locate a schematic for this specific machine, I'm going to inspect the control panel temp switch and associated wiring to see if I can over-ride the cold rinse with an optional warm setting, likely by installing a seperate toggle switch to parallel both water valves to give me a warm rinse option.

On occasion, I've done what member wayupnorth mentioned, by setting the machine to fill on warm wash, then when filled, going back to the rinse setting, and noticed an improvement.
But that takes time, waiting by the machine, so my modicfication is on my to-do list.
 
agiflow said:
Chet is this your current machine ? I just bought this exact model a couple of weeks ago. It's from 1998 or that's when it was built, August 1998. I need to get the tub out of it and get a replacement spin basket. Cosmetically the machine looks pretty good and cleaned up nice. I think this has the dual action Plus agitator in it also.

Edit: I should have looked closer but mine does not have the ultra rinse. Wish it did. The Kenmore 90 serious I purchased back in March of 2003 had that. Was a great machine and I got rid of it because the stupid plug broke off it and got that junk Maytag Bravos X.
Click to expand...

I wish it was my current machine. I am still using my Speed Queen but I changed the water valves a few weeks ago. What a difference! May I advise you doing the same? 358277 is the magic number.

https://automaticwasher.org/threads/new-old-stock-358277-water-valve.98246/

Do you have control panel pics of the Kenmore you just purchased?


Take a pic of the tech sheet on your machine when its open and I'll tell you whats what.

Some Kenmores had had a spray rinse sequence in the first spin of the ultra clean cycle, others didn't. On the other hand, some machines did a spray rinse in the first spin of the permanent press cycle as a cool down, others did a half a tub drain and re-fill for a cool down. IIRC Permanent Press I and Permanent Press II respectively.
 
Chetlaham said:
Do modern machines even let you do that without throwing an error code?
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Depends which machine. Neptune TL responds to a wrong hose connection by electrically reversing the valve solenoids but otherwise carries on. I have it connected to a bathtub faucet so it gets whatever is the faucet mix into both inlet valves. IWL12 eventually bleeps a fault code but doesn't stop filling. AquaSmart may stop filling on the fault but can be resumed without canceling/restarting the cycle.

Toploader ... turn off the cold supply, bypass the lid switch and fill directly with a hose until the water level triggers. The machine shouldn't know the difference unless it has a flow meter that doesn't sense any flow through the valve and throws a fault.

A frontloader could possibly be filled with a hose through the dispenser drawer.

Get creative!
 
Nahh, thats not being automatic. And, the constant disconnecting, reconnecting, rigging, ect sets you up for leaks, stripped connections, ect.

Once upon a time even BOL Galaxys offered a warm fill by default without ATC dilution. You could close the cold valve for a hot fill, you could wye the hoses into the cold and cap off the hot inlet or you could bridge the hot and cold wires for warm/warm without triggering any type of electronics or logic saying you were doing wrong. Maybe even drill out the plastic control panel for toggle switches.


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It makes me angry that the 358277 valve with hot/warm and warm/warm options aren't dominant in the laundry market. Forgive me, but people just don't know when something is wrong.
 
DADoES said:
There's no need for continual disconnection/reconnection with Y-splitters and other such devices.

One finds a way if it's an urgent-enough concern, no?
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Right, but wye fittings require two separate hot and cold valves that must be manipulated twice. During and after the wash fill.

In an automatic washer the wash and rinse temperature should be capable of being automatically set per the cycle and fabric required.

This should be the norm for top loads in 2025 complemented with a 50/50 358277 mixing valve:


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Chetlaham said:
I wish it was my current machine. I am still using my Speed Queen but I changed the water valves a few weeks ago. What a difference! May I advise you doing the same? 358277 is the magic number.

https://automaticwasher.org/threads/new-old-stock-358277-water-valve.98246/

Do you have control panel pics of the Kenmore you just purchased?


Take a pic of the tech sheet on your machine when its open and I'll tell you whats what.

Some Kenmores had had a spray rinse sequence in the first spin of the ultra clean cycle, others didn't. On the other hand, some machines did a spray rinse in the first spin of the permanent press cycle as a cool down, others did a half a tub drain and re-fill for a cool down. IIRC Permanent Press I and Permanent Press II respectively.
Click to expand...
 

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Oh! Lucky you. Looks like a two speed washer. My favorite was the 3 speed motor with the 4, 5 or 6 position selector switch. Your model appears to be an "in between model"- a hybrid of the two speed motor 3 cycle dial (heavy duty, permanent press, delicate) AND a three speed motor 4 combo position 2 cycle dial that had extra rinse options at the end of both the ultra clean and permanent press cycles.


Interesting to see the dry agitate test allocation was placed between the PP and soak off period instead of at the end of the ultra clean wash period. Also interesting is how I assume what to be the extra rinse period was never labelled at the end of the permanent press cycle.

This was Kenmore's way of baiting you into buying a more featured model that was often nothing but an extra label or jumper in the timer. Things like 3 speed motors, fabric softner, ATC, warm/warm, ect were wittingly placed on more featured models holding a commonly sought after cycle or feature. The idea was to start at bait and switch, then to embarrass you into looking at something more featured, and then to entice you into buying a high end machine. I know because I tried numerous times buying a Galaxy for the fun of it, but got every excuse why I wouldn't be happy with it and I needed at least a featured two speed machine with a fabric softener and bleach dispenser like yours. I think the sales tactics Sears employed were unethical, and I think it is one of the things that helped do Sears in which to be frank I am glad Sears isn't around to behave that way with customers, especially those who are economical disadvantaged at no fault of their own. It not fair when customers are speaking the language of innocence, while the sales person is speaking the language of behaviorism and deception.

Anyway, that aside, how I like to imagine the programmed cycle version of your machine.




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Yeah chat when I looked at this machine, it really has all the features I could easily live with. I'm not going to lie. That basic Whirlpool commercial VMW I had was a great washer despite preset water levels and no options.

Hot wash was a hot wash and warm washes were more on the side of hotter than cooler for all cycles except for Normal.. It did everything I needed a washer to do and it did it well.

If money wasn't tight right now I would get another one, that show much I liked that machine. If it had soil level options and a water level control it would have been the perfect VMW washer.
 
I think the vmw commercial washers with the 1/2 h.p. motor are more comparable to a direct drive but the direct drive has more more torque and no pausing between strokes. I think overall the direct drives also clean better. Which is really the most important job of your washer.

Chet I would make this analogy. It's like Digital (VMW) vs. Analog (Direct drive) and there is something to be said for analog!
 
37085122_614.jpg37085124_934.jpg37085123_934.jpg37085125_934.jpg @Chetlaham this is a 1993 inglis Royal100 directdrive washer its strange but i think vintage would be the way to go also just did laundry wash my bedsheet washer set on hot and atc system not working like supose to where base on my model maytag mvw6230HW2 washer starts the fill cold and if set to warm or hot suppose to switch mix hot cold water if set to warm as ref included a screenshot of hidden fault code check online say water in machine to hot and hose are well install unless its a faulty valve but i am no expertIMG_0224.jpg
 
Chetlaham said:
Pierre, its time for a new washer. Even I can't figure out what F0E4 means...


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First time I am hearing about a spin limited by the water temperature.
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i think so as well i think the one i have is a lemon as its not working like supose to if i use max fill at the first spin pump start but suddenly stop when bough in 2021 i tryed to convince mymom to look into speed queen hubesch but she said they where to costly but not abandoning i think before washer reach the 10 year mark it will fail before its time with the pump failing or clearly the controlboard and @Chetlaham twice washer gave me the F3E3error code it has not return but i am constently on watch since i know washer is not working like supose to even if i set the washer to medium speed for spin the spin is to fastHB_TC5_Front-626x1024.jpegHB_TC5_Control-626x1024.jpegHB_DC5_Front-626x1024.jpegHB_DC5_Control-626x1024.jpeg
 
No. The material of the supply hoses does not affect the temperature of the water flowing through them.

It is affected if the hoses are connected to the washer in reverse.

I don't recall for sure if you have checked that the supply hoses are connected to the washer correctly ... hot faucet to hot inlet valve, cold faucet to cold inlet valve.
 

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