Cold Wash Warm Rinse Cycle

[qsd-dan]

Tempering valve is EXACTLY what you're looking for! Seriously, get one and have your mind blown.

It mixes water to whatever temp you want from 80F-120F, all of the mixing is done BEFORE it goes to your water valve. No stupid cold/hot alternating garbage most ATC equipped top loading washers have that're unprecise in temps and fade colors when hot water hits colored fabrics. I've been using one for 18 years and not a single problem yet. In your area, it will probably be functional all year. It also functions during on the "Warm" setting by brining up the cold water to the set temperature plus hot water output. This produces rock solid cold and warm temperatures all year 'round.

I put a "Y" on my tempering valve outlet valve so I can feed one line to the washer and the other for the wringer washers. I have fed the wringer washer line to a garden hose and washed my cars with 85F-87F water temps which helps break down dirt quicker.

Here's one for super cheap on Ebay

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3567019254...oi6jZvIFW6UOWzSPltsCHpOBc=|tkp:Bk9SR9TVl_25ZQ

 

[Chetlaham]

Right, but you still need to manually adjust the tempering valve before the rinse and afterwards for another wash.  

 

[qsd-dan]

85-90F is perfectly fine for washing and rising, no need to adjust.

 

[Chetlaham]

Right, but if I want a 140*F hot wash?

 

[Chetlaham]

Reply 8

Pat, you know I like EM timers!

 

 

 

Here is the cycle and timing sequence for the washer in reply #4 

 

 

 

 

I've included the wiring diagram for the selector switches-

 

 

 

 

[qsd-dan]

"Right, but if I want a 140*F hot wash?"

Then select "Hot" and the washer gets tap hot water directly to the hot side of the water valve from the water heater like a traditional setup.

The tempering valve has 3 hookups. Cold water is fed to one side of the valve directly from the cold water tap and hot water to the other side from the hot water tap. The third (lower) connection feeds the tempered water directly to the cold water valve of the washer. ALL cold water use is tempered whether you select cold or warm. A "Y" connection at the hot water tap is require to feed 2 lines of water. One line going directly to the hot water valve of the washer and the other line to the hot side of tempering valve. You still get tap hot going directly to the hot water valve of the washer. There is no tradeoff.

 

[Chetlaham]

I'll do more research= sounds like a win/win.

 

Do you have a link to a good valve? The link you posted isn't working on my end.

 

[qsd-dan]

The tempering valve output is connected to the cold water valve of the washer only. It doesn't affect the hot side of the water valve other than stealing a bit of water from the hot water tap during cold and warm selections to increase the temperature.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3567019254...efLLsDr0PF/OObTeZmja4UOG2YKE+MjxtZDeYKdFu1iYD

 

[qsd-dan]

The Ebay link is not jiving with this website for some odd reason. I'll have to email the link to you directly.

 

[Chetlaham]

No worries. Send it over, my email is open. 

 

[Marky_Mark]

Thermostatic Mixing Valve

Click here for Dan's eBay link

 

[Chetlaham]

Can I make the leap of assumption that woolens might benefit from a warm spray?

 

[lovestowash]

Today's Picture Of The Day...

There is a Blackstone washer that appears on the site that offers 6 W/R combos, including a Cold/Warm. I have always wondered if that's intended for wool.

 

[Chetlaham]

George, do you or anyone else by chance having a picture of this Blackstone washer? Thats what I am after and most interested in. I just know there was/is a purpose for cold/warm but I can't put my finger on it.

 

[Marky_Mark]

I've read that wool is extremely sensitive to mechanical action when wet, so you should severely limit agitation to avoid felting. But it's not particularly heat sensitive and can be washed in warm water with no problem. A mild detergent should be used that does not contain enzymes. Dry flat. That's really all I know about wool.

 

[Chetlaham]

Of note, Maytag commercial washers had a dedicated woolens cycle. Deciphering the service manual, the woolens cycle defaulted to a delicate wash (2 minutes total of wash agitation plus 8 minutes total soak) with a cold wash cold rinse. Interestingly, the delicate/knits cycle defaulted to a warm wash cold rinse.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[combo52]

Cold wash, warm rinse

Serves absolutely no purpose, cold water is not good for cleaning most things maybe for rinsing blood out of something and warm rinsing doesn’t work any better than cold rinsing in under any circumstances.

This is why no automatic washer ever had a pre-program cycle that gave you a cold wash followed by a warm rinse.

Of course, washing machine machines with a separate temperature control for both wash and rinse would allow this unusual combination.

Thermostatic water, tempering valves, I think I have about 10 brand new ones. I’ll have to get one out post a picture of it. I’d love to sell them. We bought them thinking it would be a neat thing to have but never used them, water just isn’t that cold here in the winter that there’s any reason to temper the water up for rinsing.

John L

 

[Chetlaham]

I'd be interested in those tempering valves. The ones you have, do they screw directly on to the washer hoses? Forgive my ignorance, I've never seen it done in practice except on hard plumbing installations where hot water (150-180) was tempered to something cooler like 120*F or 105*F.  

 

 

If you want my honest opinion, I think a 70/30 mixing valve is ideal for winter rinsing providing a just right temperature while not using more hot water than needed.

 

[Chetlaham]

Woollens Cycle

Thanks to @spinspeed I found a video of this washer online. Does anyone know what the "woollens" does on the temperature selector switch? Is there an owners manual, service manual or tech sheet a member can link to?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[DADoES]

Sharing eBay Links

 
This is Dan's eBay link from Reply #20, as an image so the full text of it displays.

It's a single line of text, wrapped so it fits into a 900px image to avoid resizing.

The only part of it needed for a working link to the ad is highlighted bold.

All the rest of it apparently is related to Dan's immediate eBay session when it was copied and breaks the link when it's clicked later on AW.

So, to share a workable link to an eBay sale, delete all of the copied URL except the section of code that references (spaced in this sentence to avoid it becoming a clickable link) https : // www . ebay . com / itm / and a number, up to and not including the ?.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/356701925482