I see now.
Cold Wash Warm Rinse Cycle
- Thread starter Chetlaham
- Start date
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Dan, would you happen to know or have measured the time to a full tub on warm fill and the time to a full tub on cold fill? I want to compare your 90 second sprays.
I have this idea of doing a cool down if you will.
Spin 2 minutes, cold spray cool down 1 minute, spin 2 minutes, warm spray 1 min , spin 2 min, warm spray 1 min , spin 6 min.
Once the garments are chilled, I'd think a warm spray wouldn't set or create new wrinkles but I could be wrong.
I have this idea of doing a cool down if you will.
Spin 2 minutes, cold spray cool down 1 minute, spin 2 minutes, warm spray 1 min , spin 2 min, warm spray 1 min , spin 6 min.
Once the garments are chilled, I'd think a warm spray wouldn't set or create new wrinkles but I could be wrong.
Maytag DC fill times
I timed the wash fill on this machine at 4 minutes & 4 seconds and the rinse fill at 6 minutes & 3 seconds in this video.
The math works out just as well-
120 seconds equals half a tub full on warm
&
120 seconds equals half a tub full on cold
I'm seeing this relative pattern on a number of machines which is great to say the least. During the cold spray the Maytag in the video below slows down in spin only slightly toward the end of the 1 minute spray indicating terminal saturation is taking place toward the end of 1 minute and that the machine can handle a 1 minute cold spray with satisfaction.
I think I'm somehow going to have to modify machine to do warm sprays as a test.
I timed the wash fill on this machine at 4 minutes & 4 seconds and the rinse fill at 6 minutes & 3 seconds in this video.
The math works out just as well-
120 seconds equals half a tub full on warm
&
120 seconds equals half a tub full on cold
I'm seeing this relative pattern on a number of machines which is great to say the least. During the cold spray the Maytag in the video below slows down in spin only slightly toward the end of the 1 minute spray indicating terminal saturation is taking place toward the end of 1 minute and that the machine can handle a 1 minute cold spray with satisfaction.
I think I'm somehow going to have to modify machine to do warm sprays as a test.
"During the cold spray the Maytag in the video below slows down in spin only slightly toward the end of the 1 minute spray indicating terminal saturation is taking place toward the end of 1 minute and that the machine can handle a 1 minute cold spray with satisfaction."
Maytags are EXTREMELY sensitive to proper setups and adjustments when it comes to the spin cycle, spray rinse, being water logged, and suds locking. What appears like saturation or suds locking, in many ways, is improper adjustments and setups. This is why I always make a huge deal about it on threads. It all comes from personal experience and experimentations over the years. I custom adjust machine for peak performance.
Motor tracks are extremely clean, well lubed WITH THE PROPER LUBE (I experimented with other lubes and had disastrous effects, same with goes for the damper pads), rollers/glides in perfect condition, pulleys clean, motor pulley's not worn (transmission belt pulley), genuine belts, proper carriage springs that are not weak, pump bearings in perfect condition and lubed, pump belt custom adjusted for peak performance (ALWAYS adjusted looser than the 1/4" factory recommended setting!!!), standpipe cut down to the lowest factory height rated height if external and not built into the wall, cabinet perfectly level, suspension springs properly tensioned and tub perfectly centered (this takes a lot of time and experience to do right!), tub perfectly centered during installation with continuous testing until it's. If all of these things are in proper order, using a high drain pulley and belt combo does a great job with extreme situations like massive overuse of detergent and radically out of balance draining/pumping, especially during the spray rinse.
Now I show off a bit with my experience:
In the video you posted, notice how the tub leans down and to the right? Either the machine is NOT level or the suspension springs are NOT properly centered. If the machine is level, someone dicked around with the spring adjustments and they're not properly tensioned (they appear to be tensioned on the weak side, by my experience). If the tub shakes around unnecessarily, it causes water to build up and swirl between the tubs rather than drop straight down and be pumped out. It causes the tub to stall, making it appear to be suds locked.
Another huge red flag: Notice the tub is vibrating a bunch while getting up to speed and then starts dancing around in a circle beginning at 15:48? This is a clear indication the inner tub is badly off center. Again, this will cause the illusion of a suds lock problem when it's being water logged by swirling water between the tubs.
Maytags are EXTREMELY sensitive to proper setups and adjustments when it comes to the spin cycle, spray rinse, being water logged, and suds locking. What appears like saturation or suds locking, in many ways, is improper adjustments and setups. This is why I always make a huge deal about it on threads. It all comes from personal experience and experimentations over the years. I custom adjust machine for peak performance.
Motor tracks are extremely clean, well lubed WITH THE PROPER LUBE (I experimented with other lubes and had disastrous effects, same with goes for the damper pads), rollers/glides in perfect condition, pulleys clean, motor pulley's not worn (transmission belt pulley), genuine belts, proper carriage springs that are not weak, pump bearings in perfect condition and lubed, pump belt custom adjusted for peak performance (ALWAYS adjusted looser than the 1/4" factory recommended setting!!!), standpipe cut down to the lowest factory height rated height if external and not built into the wall, cabinet perfectly level, suspension springs properly tensioned and tub perfectly centered (this takes a lot of time and experience to do right!), tub perfectly centered during installation with continuous testing until it's. If all of these things are in proper order, using a high drain pulley and belt combo does a great job with extreme situations like massive overuse of detergent and radically out of balance draining/pumping, especially during the spray rinse.
Now I show off a bit with my experience:
In the video you posted, notice how the tub leans down and to the right? Either the machine is NOT level or the suspension springs are NOT properly centered. If the machine is level, someone dicked around with the spring adjustments and they're not properly tensioned (they appear to be tensioned on the weak side, by my experience). If the tub shakes around unnecessarily, it causes water to build up and swirl between the tubs rather than drop straight down and be pumped out. It causes the tub to stall, making it appear to be suds locked.
Another huge red flag: Notice the tub is vibrating a bunch while getting up to speed and then starts dancing around in a circle beginning at 15:48? This is a clear indication the inner tub is badly off center. Again, this will cause the illusion of a suds lock problem when it's being water logged by swirling water between the tubs.
I noticed that too. The tub does lean and vibrate more than I am used to seeing. Something is not right, and I am willing to agree with you that there might be other issues such as to much belt slipping to much.
358277 Mixing Valve Flow Rate
Ok, so for the record I timed the warm and cold fills to maximum full on my Speed Queen. Keep in mind my pressure switch is adjusted so the water level goes to the top of the agitator fins.
3:02 for a warm fill to full
4:22 to a cold fill to full
A 2 minute total cold spray rinse gives about a half tub of water.
Ok, so for the record I timed the warm and cold fills to maximum full on my Speed Queen. Keep in mind my pressure switch is adjusted so the water level goes to the top of the agitator fins.
3:02 for a warm fill to full
4:22 to a cold fill to full
A 2 minute total cold spray rinse gives about a half tub of water.
If you manually advance the timer into spray rinse it will give about a 90 to 120 second spray rinse since it is normally a sub-interval step. Sometimes shorter depending how long the timer was in its previous increment before being manually moved forward.
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