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Steve you are the man! Thanks for taking the time to help me. I plan on rigging it for "water plus" at all times -- no switch. The more water the better. So that at least cuts out some of it. And I'm going to pass the instructions on to an electrician friend -- who could probably do this better than I could.
 
Mistervain, I'm not sure I'd do that. If you're going to have an electrician do it, I'm sure he (or she) won't be put off by wiring a switch. I would go ahead and put in the switch after a suitable period of breakin. You will probably want to make sure you don't have a lemon, although we don't seem to have much trouble with them. Even if you decide to always use the water plus, if you put in the switch, you'll be able to have it both ways. Just my opinion.

Steve
 
Cool I will keep that in mind .... are there any wiring diagrams I would need besides the instructions? My email is in my profile.

Patrick (mistervain)
 
Cool! You've almost written the whole article there. All you need now is a lead-in line such as "Modern high-efficiency washers are great but there are occasionally times when you need to wash or rinse with more water...."

One nitpicky point though: it's not "single *post* double throw," it's "single *pole* double throw." Electricians and electronics techs will notice that one.
 
A quick google shows you're right. It's been many years since the class where I learned that. Mr. Tjaden would be dissappointed. :-)

Steve
 
Steve was the water level higher on the perm press cycle even before you made the adjustments? And again thanks to both you & Jeff for sending the wiring diagrams. I should be getting this done over the next few days!
 
I believe this modification doesn't change the water levels in the permanent press cycle, but Jeff would know better than I. I haven't really used the permanent press cycle much and Jeff has had a lot more experience with the water levels in the various cycles. I'll find out eventually, though.

Steve
 
...and one of those times when "more water" is good, is if you're sick and your tummy decides to misbehave.

I'm taking the day off from work today, and using "more water." Bleh. This is one of those occasions when the 200-degree wash cycle would also be a good thing, but bleach will have to suffice.
 
The water plus button does not change the water level in the permanent press cycle. “K” on the dial, which is one of the rinses in the permanent press cycle, has the highest water level (see my earlier Post# 96449-12/1/2005-19:00 |||). For the picture of this water level see Post# 96139-11/29/2005-15:57 |||.

Jeff
 
If thats the case I could let it just fill up on K, then move it back to A,B,C or whichever to continue the rest of the cycle. I hope the "Energy Star" a.h.'s didn't mess with the higher water levels on the PP cycle on the newer Danby models.
 
"The way to prevent a sink/faucet hose from dripping where it shouldn't, is simply to have it drop down a bit before it goes back up to exit the sink. Think of a "u" shape, where one end of the "u" is into the faucet, and the other end is curving up before exiting the sink."

That's fine if one is coupling onto the faucet, and in tht case it wouldn't matter is the connection DID drip. I think what as meant here was that a quick connct be put on to the pipes UNDER the sink so as to free up the faucet while the machine is in use, Then dripping would be a problem.

"The other thing is, I don't know that there are any FLs that are designed to be wheeled around on casters like portables; the spin cycle vibration would tend to make them scoot around on the floor. In fact, if you're using temporary connections, watch out for the scoot factor; you definitely don't want the washer to pull its water connections loose."

One can make one of the casters a locking or non-swiveling caster. My KM portable is set up so that one of the casters doesn't swivel, and this holds the washer in place while spinning. The drawback is that machine only rlls easily in 2 directions. Making one of the casters a locking instead of a non-swiveling caster would solve this problem.
 
Thanks for the obligatory underwear shot.. LOL.

If all else fails, just as with a high-efficiency low-water commodes (that's "French" for toilet, ROLF), you may simply have to run it through two cycles to get the desired results.... CLEAN.
 
Re. the "energy star a.h's", keep in mind that Energy Star **is** a market-based program. No one is being forced to make appliances to energy star specifications. It's just a standard that people can use to make their own choices in the free market. Manufacturers are responding to demand when they go for Energy Star ratings.

There are occasionally circumstances that justify lower efficiency or higher resource consumption than normal. We have to count on people being reasonably conscientious (or being educated to be so), so they'll conserve where possible and use more when they actually need to rather than without thinking. The biggest waste of energy and other resources occurs simply because most people don't think about it most of the time.

"I work hard, my clothes get stinky, I've tried low water levels and they don't work for me, therefore I need more water in the wash" is an example of thinking it through. Leaving lights on and various appliances running (e.g. the TV and stereo on) because one isn't paying attention, are examples of not-thinking.

The simple remedy of people thinking more about what they do, by itself, makes a substantial difference in outcomes.
 
wish Home Depot still sold these

I would love to own one b/c it would be the perfect capacity to match my Frigidaire dryer which has 5.8 cu capacity. It seems a shame that Electrolux did not redesign their dryer to match the new larger (3.5cu?) FL. As it is with my older 3.1 cu I sometimes have to dry a full wash in two smaller loads. And I would like the heater function. No Danby dealers locally, I'd have to drive one hour to get one...
 

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