Dating a Whirlpool....

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realvanman

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I got this washer (and a similar dryer) from my mom some years ago, and have been using them ever since. I'm reasonably certain that it is over twenty years old, but my main question is- when was it built? And anything else particularly interesting about it I suppose. It works properly, but is lacking in some ways.

Thanks,
Keith

realvanman-2015071013474205536_1.jpg

realvanman-2015071013474205536_2.jpg
 
1982 Whirlpool

Keith,

That is a 1982 Whirlpool model, as the K in the stock (LA553K) and model number (LA5530XKN2) stands for 1982 models.

It was built in the 41st week of 1984 however, so this was another of those longer-running models.

I wasn't aware that the woodgrain models were still in production in 1984, but yes, not only is your machine over 20 years old, it is over 31 years old.

Why is it lacking?

Gordon
 
Operating Characteristics

Thanks guys, it's always nice (for me anyway) to learn that something is older than I thought :)

Gordon,

There are a couple of "quirks" this machine has, which I believe are in the design, rather than faults. I'll do my best to explain.

I like to use the low speed wash cycle as I figure it makes the clothes last longer. The problem is that the two spin cycles on this setting also run the motor in low speed, and thus are rather anemic. In my mind, spinning the clothes faster cannot harm them. They're merely pressed harder against the drum, drying them more thoroughly.

Next is the fact that the timer is running during the fill for the rinse cycle. This cycle is fairly short to begin with (2 minutes maybe?) which means that the cycle barely gets underway before the timer advances and begins draining. Perhaps this is a fault? It would seem that the timer shouldn't run during the fill cycle. It doesn't during the initial fill.

Lastly, during the first spin (after wash) only four little bursts of water are added.

So here's my manually modified operating sequence. You guys will probably think I'm out of my mind lol.

I start the machine on the gentle (low speed) setting, for the full time allowed (8 minutes). I like a little extra water so I hold the level control switch between settings to accomplish this. Letting go of this control then starts the timer and the motor.

When the cycle ends, I stop the machine, and move the control to the equivalent part of the regular (high speed) cycle. The machine continues to drain, then goes to the high speed spin.

Once up to speed on spin, I add in a trickle of water from the adjacent sink, to supplement the four little rinse bursts.

When this spin cycle ends, I open the sink faucet wide, to supplement filling for the rinse cycle. This works well. The drum is full just as the timer advances, and a full length rinse cycle is obtained. I leave it in high for this since it's not very long anyway.

At this point I can walk away, and let it finish on its own.

Crazy, eh? :)

Keith
 
Keith you can uses the normal cycle for most durable clothing without harming the fabric because of the long stroke agitation!

You can adjust the water level switch by turning a screw underneath the control panel to a higher level so you don't have to hold the switch.

Also the anemic high speed spin 525 RPM is fine with the 4 mini sprays.
The purpose of the 4 sprays is to allow the pump to keep up spin speed without water locking the basket (like suds lock).

And most fabric damages is not cause by the washer but by dryer.
High heat causes wrinkling, color changes, shrinkage and other hosts of wear!

As long as you use a good detergent with the least amount of time during the wash cycle, clothing damage will be kept down to a minimum!

www.sciencedaily.com

Cotton Fabrics Damaged By High Dryer Temperatures

Using high temperature settings on clothes dryers can damage cotton fabrics, according to a study presented at the national meeting of the American Chemical Society. When repeatedly machine dried at high temperatures, cotton fabrics eventually tear more easily than those tumble-dried at room...
www.sciencedaily.com
 
Crazy? No, but...

Here's my view:

I've been using this type of machine my entire life. The normal speed agitation is meant for everything but delicates. These older belt drive Whirlpool and Kenmore machines have rarely if ever (I only say 'rarely' in case there is one or two posts in here somewhere but I'd like to say 'never') been accused of being rough on clothes. I would say that you don't need to be concerned about using the faster agitation, in fact you will find better washing results with the Normal cycle.

The delicate spin speed is definitely anemic, but it is intended to be for delicates that could stretch when moving to the basket edges during spin. There has been many a comment over the years that these machines don't spin fast enough, but nobody takes into account the basket diameter, which is a factor in calculating centrifugal force, which is what actually spins water from clothes. While these machines aren't warp-2 fast for sure, I find them sufficient as my laundry in normal cycles takes about 50 minutes to dry a full load of thick towels in a good Whirlpool made dryer. I don't care how fast the spin speed, that's an OK dry time. You are correct though in using something other than a delicate spin for everyday laundry.

Timers in these washers always run during the rinse fill, but only for one or two minutes, depending on the model. During these one or two minutes, the machine will not engage agitation even if the water level is satisfied. BUT, at the end of the prescribed minutes, the timer is supposed to advance one increment where the timer motor stops. It stays stopped until the water level is satisfied. At that point, the machine engages rinse agitation, AND the timer motor resumes advancing. Nearly all belt-drives have a 2-minute rinse, though a few older machines had a one-minute. Your machine should be rinsing on any of the three main wash cycles (Normal, Perm Press, or Delicate) for two full minutes. If it is not, there is a flaw in your timer or your water level switch, probably the timer.

There should be four spray rinses (those little bursts of water) during the first two minutes of both spins on the Normal cycle. some timers were set for 5-second sprays in the energy saver era of the 1970s/80s, others had 7-second sprays. There are variations model to model on spray rinses in Perm Press and Delicate. If you're using a good detergent and not too much of it, you shouldn't need to augment spray rinses and the deep rinse at all, as many newer washers don't give you the sprays that these older ones do. In the event of the occasional sudsy rinse, especially on towels, many people use a dash of fabric softener to kill suds. Its much better than using more water.

I would be a bit careful adding extra water above the full level on this machine unless the water level switch is out of adjustment. The outer tub tops in these machines are very prone to rust degradation. A water level higher then normal will just keep the tub top wet, or wetter more often. This also puts more pressure on the centerpost seals under the agitator, which hold the water from flowing down into the bearings and transmission.

I would investigate further the rinse fill issue you mentioned as that could certainly cause usability problems if you aren't getting a full two minutes agitation. My machines of the capacity like yours aren't even half full when the two minutes is up, and probably need two more minutes to fill fully. I can see why you'd have a short rinse if your machine is filling and not agitating during most of your rinse cycle.

The rest of what you mentioned is fun, and part of what we like to do when playing with our washers, but I wouldn't think any of it was necessary. Try the Normal cycle for your regular washes, unless your agitator has some rough edges on it, it won't cause any clothes wear if loaded properly.

I hope this is of some help!

Gordon
 
You guys are awesome!

Well, it turns out that you're all right! I knew about using lower drying temperature for longer clothing life, having made the connection between temperature and how full the lint screen gets.

I finally had a chance to do some laundry tonight- standing here watching right now :)

I'm using the "Regular Heavy" setting. Left alone, it fills to right around three inches from the lip of the.... Not sure what that part is called, but I took a photo :) I set it for eight minutes. Nothing really soiled, just regular laundry.

The four little rinse bursts during both spin cycles are four seconds duration each.

While filling for the rinse, the timer advances right around two minutes, and another fifty seconds is used to finish filling, at which point the motor starts. And you guys were right, it runs for about two minutes, so the timer motor DOES stop after it advances and until it's full. Awesome!

But now I no longer have an excuse to hang out in the laundry room lol :) Too bad I don't have room for another dryer, since the washer finishes two loads for every one that the dryer can. It's a pretty big dryer though, and I have combined two loads in it when they weren't particularly large.

I shot some video, I think I had too much clothing in the first one, as I've got to get used to the lower water level, unless it is incorrect. I certainly don't want to cause any more damage than I may have already. I'll upload the footage to YouTube when I get a chance.

Next I will pick your brains about detergent type and amount, and ideal quantity of laundry in each load :)

Thanks,
Keith
 
Here's a few tips washing with a Top Loaders!

1. Always sort laundry by weight and colors and fabric type.
2. Never wash cottons with polyester shirts.
Pilling will occur on the Polyester/man made fabrics!
3. Wash Jeans inside out using cold to warm to keep colors longer with the shortest wash time as possible 6-10 minuets!
Also wash jeans alone to prevent dye transfers.
4. Pretreat stains accordingly before stains sets.
5. Use good detergent and the proper measured amount for the load for best results!
(slippery water feel test)
6. Fabric Softener is optional and used according to directions.
7. Rubber backed bathroom rugs should be washed on the gentle cycle. 2 minuets. agitation 5-10 minuets soak, then advanced to drain and spin to complete cycle and hang to dry. These rugs tends to loose its backing by the 10th wash cycle so keep an eye on that backing!

And happy washing in that Whirlpool!

cleanteamofny++7-12-2015-05-31-48.jpg
 
The Whirlpool in action!

Here's the footage I shot last night of the Whirlpool. I always add clothes while the tub is filling, but not too many. Then I add some more after it's running, while watching the rate of turnover. In the first one, I added one more item, and immediately thought "I shouldn't have done that!" you can see it's too much.

The second one is better, perhaps still a tad overloaded? After reading through the Maytag transmission overhaul thread, and seeing the wear on the pitman arm bearing and the agitator gear, I'm inclined to go a little easy on these old timers :) Hmmmm, it looks like I can only insert one link at a time. The other will have to wait thirty minutes :)

Keith

 
So, as long the clothes still turn over it's ok, even if very slowly? How do you judge a full load? I really appreciate all of the knowledge you guys have. I'd love to go to a vintage machine wash - in someday :)

Also, the lint filter is actually there, it's just broken. I'm so used to it that I'd forgotten about it. It still works, but only a small bit remains with which to get a hold of it to remove it. It's been like that for as long as I can remember.

Thanks,
Keith

realvanman-2015071223140102777_1.jpg
 
Keith -

You need a replacement filter for sure, as the locking latch mechanism is gone on your old one.

There were two versions of this filter, a more rounded or tapered one with the spikey triangular teeth on it like yours that was used only on Whirlpools, and one without the rounded front corner and different pin-like pegs, which is the Kenmore version.

They are interchangeable, and an updated Kenmore version survived at Whirlpool as the 'fits-all' replacement part.

These filter cartridges are fairly pricey at $25-$40 on eBay now when someone has a new one, but I think I may have a spare WP part. Would you like me to keep an eye out for one? I think you'll be glad to have it vs. no filter at all.

Gordon
 
Lint Filter

Hi Gordon,

I'm not really in a position to spend money on fun stuff right now unfortunately lol.

The filter does work though. It catches lint, and does stay put in it's holder.

Also, I may switch in the free Maytag I got from my friend (another thread) if I can get it working properly. It's pretty cool as it has a button that allows for a slow speed wash, and a high speed spin, just like I used to do manually with the Whirlpool :0

Keith
 

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