Duet 9400

[a440]

Glen did your motor look like this one in the link that I provided?
The part you supplied brings up two types of motors in the sense that they don't look alike. Both suppliers say they fit either Kenmore or LG.
Brent

Appliance Parts | Parts Dr

www.partsdr.com

 

[DADoES]

 
Brent, yes, the link you posted is the LG pump motor.  LG also lists a recirculation pump that's physically smaller, but it's a different part number.

 

[a440]

Thanks Glen!

 

[einhorn]

Bearing Seal

Hi Glen, up above you showed a closeup of the new seal that you installed (in post 637531). Could you give some pointers towards finding the right oil seal to match the bearings?

My duet uses the 6206 inner bearing. This has an inner diameter of 30 and an outer diameter of 62. The best guess I can make at a correct seal is a 35.62.10TC. This would be 5mm larger than the inner diameter, which looks to be about the same as what you've got there. Not knowing much about seals, I'm just wondering if that 2.5mm of the bearing that would be uncovered would lead to water eventually getting into the seals.

Another option is a 30.62.10TC, which would have the same diameter as the inner diameter. Thus the seal would be rubbing against the shaft and also the part of the bearing that rotates, so I'm guessing that wouldn't be the right size.

Thanks,
Einhorn

 

[DADoES]

 
The inner diameter of the seal must match to the drum shaft, not to the bearing inner diameter. It mates to the shaft as indicated in this picture and must be water-tight there and to the larger outer diameter of the tub housing.

The seal I used is 50mm (inner diameter) x 100mm (outer diameter) x 10mm (thickness).  My original seal is 50mm x 100mm x 13.5mm.  I could not find anything 13.5mm thickness at the required diameters.

All Duet models aren't necessarily the same on seal and bearing sizes.  Duet Sport is different, possibly others.  Your original seal should have the dimensions somewhere on it.

 

[mattl]

As I mentioned earlier I got a seal on ebay from China for $4.30 and it appears to be an almost exact match.  The sizing will depend on the shaft size and the outer bearing size.  You can either track the info down online or get a good caliper.

 

[alr2903]

Very nice results from your restoration Glen.  I was wondering if the new drum has the same spider?  Have the mfr. tried to eliminate the spider failure problem?  To go off topic, do you think the new machines with "fan fresh", is a mechanism to dry off the spider? Thanks, nice work.  arthur

 

[jetcone]

Glen

did you bleach the boot or get a new one?

 

[DADoES]

Same spider/support on the replacement drum.

I tried cleaning the boot but the results weren't happy.

Parts list:
Inner Bearing
Outer Bearing
Bearing Seal
Drum
Boot
Pump Motor
Dispenser Drawer Latch (was missing)
Leveling Legs (unit had been on a pedestal, legs missing)
Thermistor (local Western Auto horked it)
Outer Door Frame (local Western Auto cracked it)
Outer Hinge Trim (local Western Auto cracked it)
Pump Outlet Hose (clogged & nasty, couldn't clean)

Still need to get:
Door Handle (has a crack, won't last under renter usage)
Belt

 

[einhorn]

Best Bearings and Source?

Thanks again Glen.

Where did you source the bearings and seal, or other parts for that matter?

And more importantly, how did you choose the replacement bearings? The bearings that the duet's use are fairly standard 6205, 6206, or 6307, depending on the model. So finding a replacement would be simple. However I'm really interested in what type of bearing might give the machine its longest life.

Even with a seal that doesn't fail, and the mildest HE detergents, I've come to the belief that bearings will always fail on a Front loader due to the cantilever effect from there being no front support. Design, use, and luck can vary the number of years until failure from 1 to 10, but after ten-twelve years, most front loaders are going to need new bearings.

But factors in a bearing design might prolong that? There's normal clearance, C3 clearance, deep groove, single row, double row, double seal...that's just to start.

If I look up 6205 and 6206 bearings I find several different models in top brands from NTN, Nachi, etc.. From each of these, I'm just wondering which might have a longer life. I was hoping that anyone on this forum might chime in with ideas on bearings that would last longer. Nothing is guaranteed, but I believe that some bearings might be better suited to such an application.

Thanks for sharing any thoughts!

 

[DADoES]

 
I don't know a bearing from Bering ... well, maybe a little.  Following MattL's example from January, I used these.  Someone via another venue suggested that they may not be the most durable under the load circumstances that can occur.
   Nachi 6307-2NSE
   Nachi 6206-2NSE

The seal is from an eBay storefront seller UltimateIndSolutions.

The original seal has a 3rd "face" lip that mates to the "collar" flange on the drum shaft.  This is my concern that the replacement seal, which doesn't have the 3rd lip, isn't up to the task.

Other parts were from PartsDr.com, ApplianceZone.com, FactoryApplianceParts.com, and eBay.

Online sources I've used for other projects are SearsPartsDirect.com, PartsTap.com, and RepairClinic.com.

 

[applianceguy47]

Incredible job!  I can only imagine how many hours went into this sad thing.  

 

It looks like NEW now. 

 

Congrads,  your a PRO.

 

As for the access door for the filter clean out, I'm starting a separate thread with a relatively easy solution.

 

 

 

[DADoES]

 
It has come to my attention that the piece of foam in the drum shown in Reply #24 that I assumed is from a shoulder pad is apparently OEM, not stray debris.  I'm wondering what's the purpose of it.

 

[jasonthegreek]

Nice work and lots of useful information and pictures. However, I would like to share what I found on my very similar Sears Kenmore HE4t 110.45087400 made by Whirlpool in Germany.

Post# 642646, Reply# 89 discusses the bearings and seal. This is what I found on my machine: The front larger drum bearing is a SKF 6307-2Z/C3GJN and the rear smaller bearing is SKF 6206-2Z/C3GJN (2Z=2 metal shields, C3 is clearance/tolerance and GJN is Di-urea, Hi-temperature grease (115 cSt @ 40°C, range -40°C to + 150°C)). I found both on eBay individually as new old stock.

The seal is very special and is not sold in the United States as confirmed by Whirlpool USA parts department. I found the part by the number printed on the seal 4619 702 0082 14 and 50 100 13.5 seal size. After considerable research, I located the seal under part number 481070257021 with confirmed dimensions 50x100x13.5. It is available on ebay United Kingdom and EU. Any other or/equal seal is not the correct one and will eventually leak. It appears that SKF makes the seal for Whirlpool. It is the 3 lip design as shown in DADoES's photo. Notice the worn groove on the bottom of the shaft support in the 2nd photo. That is where the 3rd lip rides and makes a water tight seal. This is very important part of the seal design.

Post# 642008, Reply# 83 shows a new tub shaft. On my machine the shaft was worn where the bearing made contact. Minor drum knocking noise is apparent when this happens. That is why I tore mine apart. I have attached pictures of the damaged area. My bearings still spin freely but I am replacing them as they are 12 years old and the entire machine is apart. The drum, spider and shaft are sold as a single unit and should be replaced under Sears lifetime warranty (for this part only). Hope this helps.