Early Inglis Belt Drive Set

[114jwh]

Hi Everyone,

Thought I would share a recent find - a 1960 Inglis Royal W&D. Some might recall way back when I did a rebuild on a 66 Inglis and so almost 10 years later I guess I'll be at it again. These machines are much earlier than I've ever worked on before so these will prove interesting I'm sure!

Here they are as I found them - the dryer is gas - not my preference so I'll be on the lookout for an old style electric dryer that I can harvest the parts from to make the conversion. If anyone is interested in trading electric parts for gas parts or has electric parts they are willing to sell let me know!

https://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?54743_31~1

 

[repairguy]

Congrats! That is definitely a nice set.

 

[bigalsf]

Congratulations!

Wow, nice set! That is, I think, the Canadian equivalent to the 1960 Whirlpool Imperial Mark 12 series.

I love the styling on the set; I especially like the simplicity of the timer push-button arrangement.

Enjoy!!

 

[114jwh]

Here is some pictures after an initial wipe down. Unfortunately the dryer is missing the cycle knob and the washer is missing the unique water level knob

 

[repairguy]

They cleaned up nicely.

 

[114jwh]

Starting to take apart to see how everything looks. Have never seen this plastic diverter over the drain before. Given their age the outer tub looks great so far and the centerpost looks salvageable

 

[114jwh]

Some of the internals. Looks like an early wig wag, the original water valve and since this is from 1960 this would have the older style transmission vs the later heavy duty one and 1/3 HP motor vs the later 1/2 HP

 

[114jwh]

The fabric softener and bleach dispensers have caused issues for this machine. They were completely full of old softener residue. I'm guessing it was plugged up for a long time and someone kept using it and it would spill over the side. You can't see it in the picture well but there was blue residue all over the that side and significant rust has developed. What a mess!

Thats all for now, the outer tub of course is stuck so thats what I'll be working on next!

 

[DADoES]

 
Nice.  Close-ups of the contols, please!

Notice, no transmission braces.

ETA: Oops, there are a couple larger pics of the controls.  (Interesting that the Full Size view is *much* larger than typical.  Ahh, they're .gif images, not .jpg.  The automatic image resizing apparently doesn't affect .gifs?)

 

[maytag85]

My goodness, those are beautiful machines! I actually had a similar issue with the dispensers on mine since they gummed up. That’s what led me to taking the entire machine apart and while I was at it, decided to repair and rebuild things while I was at it. Be sure to hold the outer tub up to the light to see if there’s any pinholes in the tub and if there is, I’d have them welded so there’s no leaks.

The older style of wig wag has a unique sound, some people would replace it with a newer style to quiet it down a little, but these machines just aren’t the same without the unique wig wag sounds they make in operation.

 

[bradfordwhite]

Have you figured out how to get the sudsaver to work?
Are you going to keep the sud valve?

I've had a couple of Whirlpool made washers with those double dispensers and they were always a mess like that. They really should have had a small stream of water running when they were open to rinse the cavity clean. Back then though we didn't have multiport inlet valves.

Should be easy enough to convert the dryer to electric. Just need a heater and a 120 volt double pole relay to turn the heat on and off with the old gas ignitor line.

 

[maytag85]

Reply #10

I usually would fill up both the dispensers on my Whirlpool to help keep them cleaned, haven’t had an issue in the 2 years I’ve been doing that.

 

[jamiel]

Interesting that they did not creata a localized label (spelt "Color" rather than "Colour") even as they did the panel.

 

[peteski50]

Inglis!

This is a beautiful set Good Luck with them!

 

[pierreandreply4]

very nice set

in the term of inglis here a pic i found via google i think there 66 but not certain

 

[washerlover]

Absolutely gorgeous set! Is that a germicidal lamp I see in the washer?

 

[combo52]

1960 top of the line, Ingliss, washer and dryer

Wow, James, that’s quite a score, these should restore very nicely.

I probably have any parts you might need for the restoration if you can’t find them otherwise.

Fabric softener, and bleach dispenser on these machines was very easy to maintain but nobody ever did it, I had a lady Kenmore as my daily driver for over 30 years and I’ve never had problems with the dispensers clogging but every time I use the washer I would put a cup of hot water in each dispenser to keep them flushed out and clean.

When I poured fabric softener. I would chase it with a cup of hot water . For example, when I rebuilt the machine last year the dispensers were almost totally clean install them good functional shape.

That little baffle in the drain opening in the outer tub was to help water that was being spun out of clothing go down the drain whirlpool used that for many years in the mid to late 50s and early 60s.

John

 

[114jwh]

Thank you everyone for all the kind words!

To answer a few questions, yes Todd this machine (actually both the washer and dryer) has a germicidal lamp and a tub light. The bulbs even somehow still work!

As to the suds saver - its there, one of the ports has partially corroded off and the diaphragm is shot so I likely won't be connecting it back up - there isn't a laundry sink where these will be located anyway.

Jamie good observation - I hadn't even noticed the spelling but you are right, Inglis must have been sourcing the control panel from Whirlpool back then. Later machines had often had different panels vs US machines.

Glen - yes no transmission braces. This older cabinet has additional stabilizers that I think (?) were there to perhaps compensate for this. I haven't seen much discussion on the performance/stability of the older machines before braces were introduced - did it make a significant difference or did these stabilizers make up for it? There doesn't seem to be an easy way to add them since the baseplate doesn't have the welded bolts the braces screw into.

Pierre nice of you to share that picture - I believe these would be 67's or 68's

John, interesting about the baffle - I'd never seen one. Did it actually make a difference in minimizing leftover water? And thank you so much for the offer with parts - I'll likely be in touch. Parts are much harder to come by since I restored the last one 10 years ago.[this post was last edited: 8/10/2023-00:21]

 

[114jwh]

Here is some more progress. I was able to get the outer tub out and I was surprised at the condition once I cleaned it up. Very little rust at all. I'm not sure if the porcelain on older machines was more durable or if that baffle really makes a difference getting rid of residual water (or maybe both)? Baseplate looks good too and I'm hoping that existing tub drain holds up.

The basket drive doesn't seem bad either although I will be using a more recent one with a good spin tube. I don't remember seeing that oil wick (?) on other basket drives.

I was able to get that dispenser cleaned out but it was a lot of work. However I tested it and both solenoids still work and it doesn't leak!

 

[114jwh]

Now I know this is a long shot but if anyone has either of these knobs kicking around they would sell, please please please let me know. I'm missing the dryer knob and the water level knob. I've attached a picture of the washer knob for comparison and a snip from an ad with the water level knob - both accept a standard D stem. Even something close would be helpful. Thanks so much in advance!

 

[maytag85]

Reply #16

Dumb question John, is it even possible to use the burner assembly in my ‘63 Whirlpool Imperial dryer or not? Thought and toyed around with the idea of acquiring the parts I need in case if I ever want to convert it to gas if it’s even possible.

 

[pierreandreply4]

114jwh

What kind of agitator is in your inglis royal washer and have you seen inglis washers with this agitator inside the washer? as a kid i have seen one in my grandmother 3 cycle push to start inglis liberator with 5 wash rinse temp no water level and brush lint filter

 

[114jwh]

Update

Sorry for the long time between posts. I've been working hard at getting the washer back to a respectable condition and I'm getting close the finish line. I've run into two (hopefully) small snags and hoping someone can help me out with some insight.

I extracted the old bearings & seals using a old piece of pipe and a hammer and pressed new bearings in using the tool. I used the WP bearing kit 285134. These newer notched bearings seem to be much easier to press in vs the smooth ones I used last time. I'm guessing that this coupled with the fact that the notches create wells for more turbine oil was the reason for the change.

The bearings went in without a hitch however when all was said and done I found this spring on the floor - I believe it was in one of the oil seals that sits below one of the bearings - not sure how it popped out. I don't think there is any way to get it back on - is this spring pertinent and therefore do I need to replace the seal now? I looked at the other bearing kit I have on hand which contained the older smooth bearings and the accompanying seals don't have this spring so I'm hoping its not overly important.

The newer bearing kit came with detailed instructions and it indicated to use turbine oil in the lower bearing. The service manuals I have from WP indicate grease - is the difference in direction due to the change from smooth to notched bearings? Or maybe I've misread somewhere along the way?

Finally, I did put the transmission in to test the timer functions - good news is all seems to be working properly. However, the transmission I used from a newer donor machine seems to be turning the agitator shaft a bit when its in neutral. I had opened it up before installing and the agitator spring is intact and seemed to be in good shape but I'm guessing its weak and I need to replace it?

Any hint or suggestions would be much appreciated. Thanks so much in advance!

I'll be sure to post some more photos of the process and final product soon for those that are interested!

 

[maytag85]

Reply #22

I wouldn’t really worry about the agitator movement when in neutral. Sometimes it just drags on the oil that’s inside the transmission from the agitate gear and parts that are constantly moving whenever the motor is running. My Whirlpool did the same thing when I brought it home back in 2020, even the transmission I rebuilt does the same thing from time to time. That’s just how some of the older belt drive machines are.

 

[DADoES]

Centerpost seals should all be replaced-new with the bearings, yes?

 

[114jwh]

Hi Glenn - yes, to clarify, I replaced the seals and bearings, they all come together in the kit. After I had replaced the oil seals/bearings, I noticed that spring on the floor in the picture. I'm quite certain it came out of one of the two oil seals, likely the top one. I have no idea how that happened - I'm hoping this doesn't mean I have to pull the newly installed seals/bearings and put new ones in again. If anyone has any insight on the function/necessity of this spring I'd be really grateful. Thanks so much

 

[combo52]

Spring in bearing and seal kit

That type of small spring is a common part of oil and water seals. However, I have never seen that type of spring used on a belt drive whirlpool product, my best guess is that the company that assembled the kit got that spring in there by accident but I do not think it’s part of a seal kit for a belt drive whirlpool washer.

Was the kit you got a genuine whirlpool kit or an aftermarket kit made by seal bearing manufacturer?

John

 

[114jwh]

Hi John - thanks for your input. It was a genuine FSP bearing and seal kit 285134. The bearings were the newer style with the channels on the outside. I just bought it at a local parts place so not NOS or anything like that. When I was handling the oil seals before installation it did feel like there was a spring in the inner groove and that's why when I saw that spring on the floor I immediately assumed it had popped out of one of the oil seals.

I found it strange since I have another kit that is older with the smooth bearings and the oil seals in that kit definitely don't have a spring.

Is it possible WP revised the oil seals more recently and newer ones include a spring?

If you've never seen one on a BD oil seal, I'm thinking I can just leave the seal as is and not worry about it?

[this post was last edited: 10/9/2023-10:23]

 

[combo52]

Belt drive washer oil seal question

I wouldn’t worry about it just use it as is that kit you pictured is from 2004 it’s 19 years old. I don’t know how that little spring got in there but I have never seen that. I think it’s something that accidentally got in there.

John

 

[repairguy]

I finally had a chance to check one of my NOS bearing kits and found that that spring does indeed fit on the outside of the lip on the oil seal. I’m not sure what would happen if anything without it. Do you think it’s possible that it fell out of the old oil seal that you removed?