English Electric, Hoover & Rolls Repair clinic Weekend,,,,

[buryan]

ENGLISH ELECTRIC LIBERATOR TUMBLE DRY 4602

Mike - thanks very much for your help.

I've stripped out un-necessary wires associated with the old timer and now I have:

Heater element wires connecting the two thermostats in series with wires going from the first element to the switch on the front to add the second element. I have presumed that the longer element comes on first and the second (shorter element is added?).

I have the (re-wired) motor wires.

I intend to put both heater and motor wires (double pole each) through 2 independent contactors energised from the timer. So the only wires I have to worry about are mains to timer and timer to motor relay and timer to heater relay. One think I do not understand is a push 'pulse' switch on the frame with a red button with two wires connected to the porcelain connector block and no wires from it going anywhere. What was it for - anu idea, please? It is not a disconnector as it comes through the back panel completely.

Ah! Condenser dryer - I see - thanks. Well, perhaps I had better start again with a different timer? The new timer is all plastic inside, but I suppose that's the only choice these days? Can you suggest something that would do the trick, please?

Many thanks,
Kenneth.

 

[buryan]

ENGLISH ELECTRIC LIBERATOR TUMBLE DRY 4602

Mike - Could I ask you to look at this page:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TIM03-12...ER-WITH-BELL-PERMANENT-POSITION/140828262360?

This looks like a clockwork simple on/off timer bringing motor and elements on together with no end cold running taking 16 amps. There are others on the page as well.

Would not something like this do?

Thanks.

 

[buryan]

ENGLISH ELECTRIC LIBERATOR TUMBLE DRY 4602

LAST BOTHERING - I HOPE!

Ordered a 4-po;e contactor and the simplest of clock-work one-pole timers (oven timer) which will energise the contactor, hopefully, so motor and heater come on and go off at the same time. No cold running - but I don't care any more!

Thanks for help.

Kenneth.

 

[supertwin59]

Did .....

the liberator washer of the same period have the same drum door style/finish as the dryer as I am remember my mothers mother having this style in both except the cabinets were white?

This memory dates from around 1963?

Regards, Walter.

 

[keymatic]

Hi Walter,

I would say a bit earlier like 1959/1960. Here’s my stacker set.
Cheers
Keith

 

[slowspin66]

Timer replacement

Kenneth if you contact me via AW / email
I know someone who can help with your replacement .... regards

 

[buryan]

ENGLISH ELECTRIC LIBERATOR TUMBLE DRY 4602

Hi - not sure who has kindly replied last? The deed is done - I have ordered and paid for mechanical wind-up timer and a 4-pole contactor. Thank you so much for you help.

The photo above the same midel as our 1958 Liberator washing machine that I more annoyingly all the time - scrapped 20 years ago!

Kenneth.

 

[buryan]

PS - Did the original Liberator dryer has a period of running cold at the end of the cycle?

 

[supertwin59]

Hello Keymatic

.....thinking about it the dates you suggest are spot on. Grandmother used super rinso powder and if to many suds built up in the drum she would unscrew the plug in the middle of the glass window to let them out; she was notorious for being heavy handed with detergents and appliances in general!!

Many thanks Walter. Shropshire, West Mids.

 

[buryan]

ENGLISH ELECTRIC LIBERATOR TUMBLE DRY 8973

FURTHER HELP, PLEASE - SORRY!

I have put in a simple mechanical on/off timer and wired the motor and heater elements through a contactor - OH - just thought - how much extra current does that take? - and all is fine on low heat and after a moment on high - it blows the fuse. I am also installing a toggle switch so I can turn the heat off altogether and run the motor with cold air only.

The elements look absolutely perfect. Any idea what can be wrong with them? They are wound like an old fashioned coil electric fire, through ceramic cleats, please?

I seem to be getting a nil ohms reading, but then I am hopeless with these new meters!

Does anyone know anyone who can re-wind heater coils, please?

Thanks for all your help.

Kenneth.

[email protected]

 

[buryan]

ENGLISH ELECTRIC LIBERATOR TUMBLE DRY 8973

I have been getting the number wrong - it is as above - 8973. Any idea of date, anyone, please?

Does anyone have manual please? Mike in Chester?! I need new belts and the old ones have vanished and wondered if anyone knew the lengths, please?

Best wishes,

Kenneth.

Eng

 

[chestermikeuk]

English Electric 4602

Hello Kenneth

Have managed to find some info for you , I will scan it tomorrow and post but this may help meantime ..

It shows a wiring schematic for dryer but not timer, I would assume they would just be swapped out at source.

Also the belts specs :
Vee Belt drum / idler ref: M. 40 1/2 inch B.T.R.
Vee Belt Motor / Idler ref: M. 39 inch B.T.R.

 

[slowspin66]

Short out

Kenneth have you taken the element cradle out and examined it ?? Are the ceramic insulators intact ?? Regards Darren

 

[buryan]

ENGLISH ELECTRIC LIBERATOR TUMBLE DRY 8973

Just seen your 5 extremely useful pages of schematic with belt sizes - I am most grateful to you Mike - I think it is? Also thanks, Darren - yes the cradle is with a firm in Norfolk, hopefully being re-wired as we speak with a slightly reduced total kilowattage.

Put a toggle switch where the blank chrome plug was, so now I can run the motor and fan cold before turning on the heat elements controlled by the red knob as before.

So - very simple mechanical clock (with bell!), switching solenoids governing motor and elements and elements fully controllable by new chrome toggle. Looking forward to getting back the re-wored open cage.

WHAT a performance it has all been!! Will post a pic when it is finished. It is now finished in powder duck-egg green.

Does anyone have a rubber (?) air hose outlet ducting connector, by chance for this machine?

I thank everyone for their help

EE LIBERATOR

 

[ricky5050]

Great work

Hello great work in the dryer I have one. How are the air seals? They tend to rot and someone did tell
me they are made with asbestos. I replaced mine. I bought large strips of felt that would normally stick to big pieces of furniture to stop floor scratches. My mum sewed them together and formed a v shape in them. They seem to work well. It’s normally the front one that goes first as the heat rots it. Getting the innards out of the cabinet isn’t easy. As it can easily warp. The heat duct has a filter also that can catch fluff mine had some old pre decimal coins in

Good
Luck

Richard

 

[ricky5050]

I should point out

That it was such a PITA of a job I would never do it again. Too many parts to align and seal
Up.

Haha

Richard

 

[supertwin59]

Mums with sewing machines.....

invaluable!!

My mum rescued two pre war hoover upright cloth bags for me, and how great they look on the actual cleaners.

Regards, Walter.

 

[buryan]

ENGLISH ELECTRIC LIBERATOR TUMBLE DRY 8973

MY TROUBLES ARE VERY FAR FROM OVER! HELP, PLEASE!

I thought I had eventually found a firm to re-wind the open coil elements cradle but after sending the frame to them weeks ago, they are still trying to find someone to do it (and were quoted by one manufacturer £300!). I don't think they are going to be able to help and the whole exercise will have cost over £20 in wasted, insured postage.

Does anyone know anyone who can wind new element coils for me please? I am so nearly there and have just bought new belts. Just waiting upon the sorting of the elements and am still looking for a air duct connector if anyone has one tucked away - if not, I shall have to make something up.

Many thanks,
Buryan/Kenneth.

[email protected]

PS - Richard - what is a 'PITA'of a job? I have been trying to fit in a coherent set of expletives and have failed to find the formula - - !!

 

[retro-man]

PITA = Pain in the Ass.

Jon

 

[buryan]

Of COURSE - how bloody silly of me!! Thank you!