Everyone meet Horsey->LG

[supremewhirlpol]

So for this new boot I have to also replace the lower counter weight? For my purposes, that is beyond the scope of repairs that I plan to do to Horsey. If I happen to come across a Washer/Dryer machine, I probably would use an updated boot if one had not already been implemented.

Yes, there are 6 bolts, the bolts go through the spider, cylinder and into the baffles. Both bearings that I'm using are sealed, and require more torque. The spider and drum will also be heavier, which might throw off the load sensing and water level features.

I read either in the service manual, or some where that the water temp can get up to 167 deg_F, so expansion of the nonmetal washers could be an issue. I'll see what type of washers I can find.

3beltwesty:
Do you know of the best nonconducting material that washers are made of, that would expand the least? I'm wondering if I can use thin plastic between the bolts, cylinder and spider and not worry about thicker plastic washers. What do you think?

The spider and cylinder having proper clearance inside the outer drum is important.

Also:
Does anyone have an idea of what the capacity of this machine is as far as dry clothes weight? The cylinder is rated for 3.83 cu.ft. IEC I'm guessing some where around 16-18LB?

When you apply the epoxy, it does have a VERY strong odor, and so will what ever you applied it to. Some of the odor does go away after the epoxy has cured some.

 

[mattl]

If you are trying to isolate the aluminum electrically from the stainless, wouldn't you need to put the bolts through some sort of sleeve in addition to the washers? the bolt passing through the aluminum and the stainless will still conduct.

This is a very interesting read. Seems like the engineers that design this stuff should be reading this...

 

[jlbrazil]

My LG

My LG has this little hose

 

[3beltwesty]

electrically isolating the alum from SS and boots too

Supreme; re the isolation electrically.

This might seem crazy but I was thinking of 3 or 4 mil (thousands of an inch) Polyester; like old manual drafting mylar or what floppy discs use. Some film negatives are mylar; but not many. ie Kodak films that had an Estar base.

Thus you would have to use Matt's idea too of placing some Mylar pieces in the spider through holes, so the screws male threads do not touch the spider electrically.

I am not sure what diameter your 6 bolts are; maybe about 1/4 inch say 6 mm since metric? ; maybe 8mm?

With electrically isolating some stuff for experiments I have used homemade mylar washers. A hole punch can be used. Or one can place several pieces of mylar between two clamped boards; and one bores a hole through it. Lord there must be a few million dead floppies somewhere! Floppy discs are mylar, I use to work at several places that made drives.

The whole idea is to somehow electrically isolate the cast aluminum spider from the SS drum; but still have good bolt preload. (tension over the life of the product) .

You really do not want a Marshmellow in the bolts connection; but a thin non conductive barrier. Thin is bad if one has High Voltage; but one has only a volt or two. If too thin any sharp metal feature can with time puncture the barrier . This is better too because of mechanical creep, where things with tension or compression get a set.

A 8mm bolt that has a 4 mil mylar washer added and in 5 years the washer has mushed out to be only 3 mils thick only lost 1 mil in thickness. A torqued up bolt/screw is really a spring; it has a spring rate of K=A*E/L

K is in lbs per inch
A the screw/bolts cross sectional area
L is the length of the part bolted together
E is a material property; it is about 30 million for steel; 10 million for aluminum. Mylar is roughly 1/3 to 1/2 million.

base plastic grades are not that stiff, thus they often add glass fill to bump up the stiffness.

Thus cylinder head bolts are long and made of steel, the head gasket is thin because the material is not as stiff. One wants the bolts to be still in good tension even if the gasket gets a tad thinner with time; after many many hundreds of hot cold cycles. With a thicker plastic gasket or washer in the same design; the bolts preload will drop more.



Supreme; re the new type boot.

It looks like *IF* one placed a new type boot on the old machine, the water would go though the boots drain holes, I guess on ones floor.

Thus I think the reason LG changed to a new tub front is to make this water go back into the tub, thus no water on the floor. I really do not have a clue as how much water would go into a pie pan if one had the new boot on and older machine.

Thus I think a factory retrofit to an old machine has one using the new boot with holes; the new bypass hose; a new tub front with a port for the bypass hoses. Since the added bypass hose cannot go through the old balance weight; the new weight has a cut-out for the new hose. Thus any machine can use a new balance weigh; a newer machine with a bypass hose cannot use the old weight.

http://machinedesign.com/article/structural-properties-of-bolted-joints-0217

 

[supremewhirlpol]

There is also epoxy in the mounting holes of the spider. I can try to get some of that mylar in there, but will probably be a tight fit. I could put the mylar under the washers of the bolts and between the spider and the cylinder.

 

[supremewhirlpol]

Time to put the bearings in->rear tub cleaned of the nasty gunk.

 

[supremewhirlpol]

I use 100W light bulb to heat the area where the bearings sit. ~30 min is good enough.

 

[supremewhirlpol]

I use the old bearings to push in the new bearings. For the rear bearing, make sure the top side of the bearings is flush with the metal that the bearing sits in, or slightly inside.

 

[supremewhirlpol]

Make sure the top of the inner bearing is past the metal that surrounds it. The bearing regions have been fabricated so that when they are inserted, they cannot be pushed in too far. The inner bearing needs to clear the plastic, so that the seal can be installed properly.

 

[supremewhirlpol]

The old seal and new seal->new seal has different design

 

[supremewhirlpol]

seal installed->vaseline applied to outer side of seal to seat better against plastic.

 

[supremewhirlpol]

Spider installed on cylinder->Have to wait until Saturday for water test.

 

[supremewhirlpol]

Insert the shaft of the spider into the rear inner tub->carefully. Install the motor into the back and check for proper clearance. The hub of the motor should fit all the way on the shaft->tighten the hub down with the bolt.

 

[supremewhirlpol]

Put the front outer tub on the rear inner tub->check for clearance. Give cylinder a spin->make sure there in no rubbing, and that the cylinder spins freely. ->The boot was actually the reason why this machine was stinking up my car!

 

[supremewhirlpol]

Don't forget to clean the rubber seal that holds the outer tub together. Since the tub unit is pretty much assembled, it has some weight to it->may require two people to insert into the cabinet and put the springs in the holders. Putting the boot and clamp on is a real pain. Remember to be gentle with the wires and connections.

 

[supremewhirlpol]

OTHER ISSUES....

A BIG NO NO!!!

 

[supremewhirlpol]

Components on the PCB can't dissipate heat properly because of the epoxy? that it is in, thus the electronic smell that I get-> NOT GOOD!

 

[3beltwesty]

Looks like a super great job.

I spotted the voltohm meters leads in photo #171, hopefully the isolation will fix the aluminum to SS issue.

The seal on my old 1976 FL washer here was a total mess to get it in the metal bore, the hardest part of the job. I made a puller with washers to get it to go in square and still ruined the seal. Finally I got the 2nd one in, it is a press fit on mine.

Coating boards with epoxy is done sometime for tampering, mostly for protection. It makes the part more robust for mechanical abuse while building the unit, no parts get bent or broken.

*IF* designed properly, one has no parts that get real hot under this coating. Some of those connectors are right by capacitors and get broken when folks assemble the units.

*OR* the board design layout is hokey and surface moisture on the board screws up some servos and analog stuff.

A washing machine's seal design is rather non trivial. The old design might have been poor.

I posted a cool link on seal design for folks to see.

http://www.rlhudson.com/shaft seal book/sample-industry5.html

 

[fordtech]

Are you sure you arent just smelling residual dust and contamination from the motor area where you did the sensor fix?

Looks like a magnificent job supremewhirlpol

 

[supremewhirlpol]

3beltwesty:
I noticed that the seals were different and that the area around the shaft on the spider different compared to the old spider as well. As a result I had to remove the epoxy around the shaft. My concern was that the uneven surface would cause the outer lip of the new seal to fail. Yes the cylinder is isolated from the spider, however there is one bolt that is not isolated from the spider, but is isolated from the cylinder. I probably should have ordered new baffles, as the threads are plastic. This is a first try->you learn and improve as you learn from your mistakes. Thanks for your help!! Interesting link you posted.

fordtech:
The smell does come from the board when the machine is running.

I did think about relocating the board and using a different enclosure, but I may do more damage to the PCB in the process. A replacement costs~$60->moderately cheap in cost to buy. I think for now I'll leave the cover of the PCB off and place shielding around the water valves. Since I have taken the cover off, the PCB does not get as hot.

If I have time, I just may test it today. Will post a video on YT.