has anyone had this problem with there 220 volt dryer?

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question to combo52

I have a question sorry for posting it here if my mom decide to go with exhange via the store where washer dryer was purchuse do you think i should suggest to my mom that she exchange for speed queen eather model tr7 with matching dryer or speed queen tc5 with matching dryer but negociate that they put them at the price of the maytag set purchuse in july? if my mom opt for exchange because i am starting to suspect that the dryer might be a possible lemon thank you for any answer just went to prepare a plan b if needed to be exchange
 
There is NOTHING WRONG with your MTD, At this point I would go buy a new cord and install it yourself, this is getting ridicules !!!!

 

 The electrician should have done this, can you use a screw driver ?,  There are instructions that came with the dryer how to install a cord, have your Mom do it even.

 

If not get the electrician back to finish the job, I would not let the idiot MT servicer touch your new dryer.

 

John L.
 
Unless I’m missing something, isn’t the video in reply #33 a great example of how NOT to do it?  It appears to my untrained eye that the dryer would be left dangerously ungrounded if wired as shown in Whirlpool’s video. Shouldn’t the dryer’s white grounding wire be removed from the green screw and attached to the middle terminal block (combined ground & neutral) when using an older-style 3-wire cord?

 

In any case, the OP is in Canada and has a 4-wire cord (I’m not even sure if 3-wire was ever used for dryers in Canada). 

It seems as though the most logical course of action would be to replace the wall receptacle and the dryer cord.  I see no reason to suspect any kind of fault with the dryer itself at this stage. 

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Hi Pierre, your electrician is an idiot also, If he can't change a dryer cord get a different electrician.

 

Reply #29, Hi Matt, A defective dryer CAN NOT cause the plug and receptacle to fail, If voltage is low the heater amp draw goes DOWN not up, The 4 amp motor could possibility go up to about 5 amps with low voltage but then the motors overload will cut the motor off long before it burns up a 30 amp cord-set.

 

There is no possible failure of an electric dryer that will cause power draw to go up, and if it does one of the 3 internal fuses or overheat devices will cut off the heater or motor, and if that does not happen and the dryer was drawing more than the30 amps that the cord and outlet is rated for the homes 30 amp breaker will shut it down before it could damage an outlet or cord.

 

I have been working with these systems all my working life.

 

This whole problem was caused by a poorly installed outlet or possibility a poorly made cord, nothing more and nothing less.

 

John L.

[this post was last edited: 10/7/2021-22:03]
 
Pierre your are WRONG to not listen to the advice given here by by PEOPLE who know appliances! John has over 50 years repairing washers, dryers and other appliances. HE KNOW WHAT HE'S TALKING ABOUT! Open your eyes and ears! Otherwise why are we still flogging this dead horse! You are flogging a dead horse and costing your Mother money! Understand?
 
for one thing it would be an under warrenty repair and my mom is simply following the advice given by the electrician he was the one that suggested to my mom she call maytag to ask for a genuine factory cord and even if i did replace the power cord my self what if the control board has fryed as well as the heating element or termal fuse those kind of repairs i would not be able to do this my self and i am greatful for the advice but like i said in one of my replys outlet is brand new since the electrician came to replace the outlet the day i made this thread and my fear is even if i did it my self what if there an other problem that can not be detected sigh feel like i am repeating myself pic 1 new outlet 2 damage cord and the electrician told us when condo was built the original plug was poorly install 1 and second it nearly happen back in 2015 when i still had duet dryer.

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Looking at this again, I think the video was correct and my understanding of the video was wrong.

 

I think the white wire is the neutral that is in fact supposed to be connected to the green ground screw (i.e. to the metal frame) as a way of grounding the dryer via the neutral wire. Whereas with a 4-wire connection, this white wire is not actually needed and is therefore screwed to the terminal block’s neutral as a way of safely stowing it neatly somewhere in case it is needed in the future. 

Still, this is off topic really.
 
Joule Heating

Here is the deal. Once metal heats up to the point it can melt or burn anything around it, it oxidizes. Oxides have a much higher resistance than copper. And where there is resistance to electron flow, there is heat. Lots of it. 

 

Replacing the cord will get rid of the oxides on the blade, but will not rid of the oxides on the outlet's leaf contacts. 

 

Meaning you could change the dryer cord 100 times, and it will still keep burning up. That is assuming a fire doesn't begin sooner. In fact it will, sooner or latter.  

 

You need to replace the cord, receptacle, and even cut/re-strip a few inches of wire behind the receptacle- all at the same time. You need fresh, unheated metal on the blades, leaf springs and conductor terminating to the back of the receptacle.

 

If all 3 aren't done at the same time, high heat from any one will irreversibly oxidize (damage) the other two.     

 
 
This is ridiculous, apparently so called “experts” don’t know how to replace a cord and outlet. I could probably replace the cord myself very quickly and have a electrician replace the outlet and this whole fiasco would have been over a long time ago. It really is absurd when they insist on replacing the heating element and every other part in the dryer when those items aren’t the culprit for a bad cord and yes it’s a good idea to check everything with a volt meter just to be sure but replacing those parts is complete ridiculousness.
 
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