Help! Maytag Repairman recommends euthanasia!

[patpackrat]

Maytag Headquarters

Laundromat,

Thanks for the 'translation'. Gotta learn the lingo here! When I called Maytag they gave me 877-232-6770 to call for parts, but when I called the only real choice was to leave a message to return the call, which they never did. I guess I'll have to call the main number again and see what's up.

I agree about replacing the belts. Just feeling them they seem dried up and there is residue from them, so I'll be sure to clean the pulleys. So far no sign of oil anywhere -- dare I say! I've been using Repairclinic.com for parts and will call them Monday. Their website and service are terrific. $23.10 seems like a lot for one belt, but then I'm probably lost in a time warp! The last belt I bought was for the dryer many, many moons ago, but I see they're not cheap now either.

Anyway, thanks again for the info.

PAT

 

[rickr]

Maytag belts

Hi Pat,
Don't try to use any other type "v" belts on your machine.They cannot come from an auto parts store. They have to be the special genuine Maytag washer "v" belts.As someone stated before they are designed to act as a clutch and have a special coating on the belts to allow them to slip without undo wear or damage.

Good luck,you can do it!
Rick

 

[patpackrat]

Replacing belts

Hi, Fixerman -

Am I correct that by "trans" support bearing you're referring to the transmission? I mentioned up above that over a year ago when it was making noise Repairclinic.com said to replace the tub bearing (as you just said) and the washer tub stem seal, which I never did since the noise subsided. I doubt, though, that my 'Maytag Repairman' would have been any more enthusiastic about repairing my then 26 year old washer than he is now!

Since I'm small, I don't think I'll have a problem changing the belts in the tight space I have to work in. I remember reading somewhere that you should have at least 24 inches in front of it, but I think 18" will be ok as long as I can tilt it enough that it doesn't come crashing down on top of me!

I think replacing the belts and then to "see what happens" as you said is 'a plan'. In the meantime I'm going to try to get a repair manual so I can hopefully be on the same page with you guys.

Thanks for your help. Please stay tuned here!

PAT

 

[fixerman]

Space in front is no problem as long as you have room to use it. I would guess it probably is the tub bearing since you say the noise has subsided. The trans bearing is a roller bearing so it probably would not get any quieter, however I don't know why the tub bearing noise would subside.

 

[goatfarmer]

$23.10 is probably the price for the belt set.It takes 2 belts,and lately Maytag has been packaging them together.Check locally,you might find them cheaper.

You're right,you have to be able to tip the machine back,to change them.Be sure to unplug the machine first,tip it back,you can use wood blocks or similar to hold it tipped.The motor is on a sliding type bracket,so no belt adjustment should be necessary.Remove the old,replace with the new,pretty simple.

kennyGF

 

[patpackrat]

Belts

Fixerman -- I think what you said coincides with what I read at Repairclinic.com: <<"On some washing machines, the clutch is just a combination of the drive belt slipping temporarily on a pulley and gradually tightening.">> As such, I think I may have messed up things by moving the belt by hand, which I did to see if anything was hanging up. I seem to remember the tub changing direction at one point, but I just passed over it at the time. Anyway, last night my curiosity got the better of me and I turned the washer on to see what it would do now that the tub is free. Well, after it filled, it spun instead of agitated. Please say this isn't a big screw-up!

PAT

 

[patpackrat]

Thanks, I owe you one!

Hey, Kenny -

Thanks for your last post about the price of the belts. The $23.10 was for each belt, but I found they do have the set for $33.40. But, since I had surfed around before I called them back, I found a place called pcappliances.com who had the set for $24.95 with $5.75 shipping UPS ground. And, better yet, I just got them -- in less than 24 hours!

Now, without your input I probably would have just gone ahead and ordered them at the $23.10, so you just saved me $21.25! Well, I know you'd rather have the money, but you know it's probably going to take my life savings to fix my machine. So, how about I give you first dibs on my circa 1925 Wayne Washer? (Maybe I should reconsider -- it might be easier for me to put that thing back in service than my Maytag!)

PAT

 

[peterh770]

Pat, you didn't screw up. What you tell us is just another symptom of the helical drive problems you mentioned. The drive and brake use a big spring. Sounds like the spring is sprung.

 

[patpackrat]

Oh, No!!!!!!!!!

Peter, are you saying that my fiddling with the drive belt as I explained up above couldn't have switched the spin and agitation actions? And, does that mean that replacing the belts at this point isn't going to do any good -- and that I have to add yet ANOTHER part to my list??? What's scary is that when I hear "drive" I think transmission. If that's the case, there's not much left to replace!

Excuse me while I go in the corner and bawl! I'm beginning to agree with my Maytag repairman!

PAT

 

[peterh770]

No. The belt only goes one way around the motor and drive pulley, and the way a Maytag works is turn in one direction you get spin, turn in the other direction you get agitation.

In Maytag's case, the term "helical drive" actually does describe the method of transferring the rotary power of the motor to "drive" the transmission and the tub. When the drive turns in one direction, the drive shafts rides down the helix, tightening down a large spring onto the tub brake and driving the transmission. When the motor reverses, the drive shaft rides up the helix, releasing spring and the brake, causing the tub (and the transmission) to spin. When the motor stops running, there is no longer the drive force holding the drive up the helix, so the spring causes the drive to tighten down very quickly to stop all action.

Like I said, it sounds like your brakes and/or helical drive needs some work. Maytag is THE favorite machine for coin laundry owners as they are relatively simple to work on (but you do need some muscles). You can do this repair if you put your mind to it.

You need the book in the link below:

Pardon Our Interruption...

 

[patpackrat]

Repair Manual

Peter, since the copyright date on this manual is 1974 and my A408 was purchased in Sept., 1977, will the info still apply to my machine or were there any changes made?

I'm truly appreciative of your help and I'll post a reply to it as soon as I 'chew it up' some more, but I just didn't want to delay asking you about the manual.

Thanks,
PAT

 

[patpackrat]

A forgotten detail

Peter --

A quick question: Should the agitator lift off fairly easily? If so and it doesn't, is that indicative of anything you just mentioned?

PAT

 

[mayken4now]

The Maytag!

MS. Pat, thanks for the email. My machines were totaly restored by me. It is not that hard.

At this point, I will tell you to sell these to one of myself or these passoinate gentlemen on here.

Go buy a new one. The washer story for one problem does not last a whole 2 weeks. You have an old machine that needs total refurbish or just replace it.

Love from the know how.

Steve

 

[patpackrat]

Steve -

Two weeks??? I only posted my problem last Friday night and it's Tuesday night. That's 4 days! You must be working too hard!

My initial reason for posting here was just to get some imput as to whether my model Maytag was worth fixing -- not to solicit repair help, though the responses have offered a lot of insight into what the problem may be.

My REAL problem is that my limited (to say the least) knowledge of how a washer works has come from what I've researched online in the past few days and the posts that everyone has been so kind to make. This has become a challenge to me, and I'm determined to win. I have the mechanical aptitude, I can buy a manual, and I can 'borrow' the muscle!

Again, good luck with your new project.

PAT

 

[peterh770]

Pat,

Don't sell. Fix. Maytag had this design in their domestic line from the mid 50's until today. Parts are readily available. Maytag wouldn't have kept this design around so long if it wasn't "dependable". Note that this design is the only design Maytag offers for coin-op use. That says plenty right there.

The 1974 book will work just fine for any Maytag that uses the helical drive.

 

[kenmore1978]

Transmission

Speaking of drives, could someone explain the difference in operation between the Helical and Orbital drives? Was one better than the other? Did both types spin with the tub? When was the changeover? etc., etc.

 

[peterh770]

They are 2 completely different beasts. The problem is how the word "drive" is used in each case.

Here is the deal: The Helical Drive drives the Orbital transmission.

All Orbital Transmission Maytags utilize the same Helical Drive that Maytag had since the early days.

Maytag changed from their tried-and-true transmission that we all love to the Orbital Transmission in the early 1990's.

Orbital Transmission Maytags came to be known as "Dependable Care" shortly after they were introduced, so that consumers would not loose faith in Maytag for changing their design. The control panels say Dependable Care right on them.

So today, when someone says they have a Dependable Care Maytag, you can be fairly sure that it has the orbital transmission. If someone says they have a Helical Drive Maytag, you can be fairly certain that 1) they are a bit smarter about their machine than the average bear, and 2) it has the old tried-and-true transmission.

 

[peterh770]

One more thing: The helical drive is in the bottom of the washer, just above the pulley and the washer base. The transmission is just below the outer tub.

If you take the front panel off a Maytag, you can't see how it works, but you can see the difference between agitate and spin. Just keep your hands out of the cabinet when spin time comes!

 

[kenmore1978]

clarification

So, the "Helical Drive" exists in both types of washers. In that case what was the transmission called before Orbital transmissions came out?

 

[goatfarmer]

Pat,the Maytag agitator pulls straight up to remove. However,sometimes get stuck on the shaft,and are near impossible to remove.Not part of your problem.

kennyGF