Help! My Maytag 806 made the most horrible noise

[floyde]

I've recently acquired a Maytag 806 circa 1979.
I've been a little concerned about clanking sound it's been making,
but a few club members said it should be fine despite the noises.

Well tonight I was washing sheets and during the final drain the washer made the most horrible sound I could hear it several rooms away. I videoed the sound and while i was videoing it another horrible sound occurred like a piece of the inner working fell off the inside of the machine.
I took the clothes out and the machine drained, but would not spin not will it agitate.

There was also like greasy residue particles in the tub.

I sent Kevin a video of the sounds. I'm having trouble posting it.

Any speculation on what could be going on?

Any help would be much appreciated .

 

[floyde]

I took the front panel off and can't really notice anyth

But when I try to turn the tub manually it will not move.

Is that indicative to any certain issue.

It will fill, Drain, but not agitate, spin, or the tub will not turn manually.

Thanks again.

 

[mrb627]

Broken Belt?

Or it has fallen off the pulleys.

Malcolm

 

[volvoguy87]

Damper?

Was it making a grinding / scraping noise during spin? One of mine did that right before it came into my possession. It was because the damper pads had worn out, come off, and allowed the aluminum damper to rest and scrape on the steel base of the washer. The damper is the aluminum hub at the bottom of the washer that the 3 tub support arms attach to. Check and see if yours is in more than 1 piece, mine had shattered.

If you need to replace the damper, it's not the end of the world. I did it and it wasn't too horrifying If your transmission is toast (not likely) they can be swapped out too.

Dave

 

[swestoyz]

I'll be curious to hear what was recorded on the video before jumping to conclusions. Any oil in the wash basket on a Maytag is not good.

Ben

 

[revvinkevin]

No it's not the damper

 

 

Great suggestion Dave, but worn / missing damper pads would only make noise during spin as the tub moved around, plus it would not effect the machines ability to agitate or spin.

 

Floyd texted me this video and a couple photos.   As you can hear and (barely) see in the video, the motor is running and making noise, but there is no action in the tub.



 

In the photos: 1. the main driven pulley came off the brake package.    Floyd sent a text a few minutes ago saying the motor was making the noise as the motor pulley was hitting the baseplate / cabinet,  (photo 2) probably because the belt (and pulley) was off.   He put the pulley and belt back on, but it came right back off when he started the washer.

 

Question:  Isn't there some sort of locking clip that holds the pulley nut / assembly in place?   I've only been in there once and it was 4 years ago. 

 

Thanks!

Kevin

 

[kenmore71]

Take a look at this and see if this is helpful.

 

[yogitunes]

for some machines, if the drive belt came off or is broken, this would cause the motor to slide all the way back, and allow the motor shaft rub against the base plate, hence, causing a grinding/scraping noise...

 

[swestoyz]

Martin is spot on, and that's certainly what it sounds like.

Getting the water out of the tub won't be too bad, it the washer doesn't have a siphon break. Just drop the hose near a drain to release the water, then tilt the machine and take a look.

Odd that a new belt would suddenly come off. This is where you spin the drive pulley by hand. Clockwise to spin the tub, counter to agitate. To spin the pulley will first need to travel up the helix in order to release the brake.

 

[floyde]

This is the part that came off

The pully. I put it back on and it seems secure, but every time I run it it falls off.
Kevin said there's a black cap to remove and adjust the nut.
I will post a picture of the screws, but it seems part is broken off.

 

[kenmore71]

I see the problem right away. The washer is broken in half and half of it is missing.

Is the phillips-head screw still in the bottom of the drive shaft?

 

Maytag part #2011090, subs to FSP part #2200355

 

http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Washer/22003555/893809

 

[floyde]

I put the part back on and attached the belts but Now!

The washer will not agitate . During the wash cycle it spins with the water in it asides the rinse cycle.
It will spin and fill and drain.

Did I do something wrong that it won't agitate?
This is crazy!

Thanks

 

[floyde]

Kenmore71

No, when I pulled the little black cap off that I'm showing that's what was under half of the washer and the other part. It must have been that way for a while.

So strange that would be like that.

 

[floyde]

Kenmore 71

Is what I'm seeing in the picture from the diagram number 33 the part I am showing in my picture?
There wasn't any bolt under the little black plastic cap. Just what looks like half of the washer and the other piece . So if I put the cap back on it's really not holding anything in place.

Does that piece of metal need to physically move or just the belt move on the piece .

When I put everything back together the part didn't fall off while the washer was spinning,
But it wouldn't agitate , so I though maybe it was too tight and was making the pulley not agitate .

I loosen it and it came off again.

 

[goatfarmer]

Those drive pieces have to be put back in the right place, or it won't agitate.

 

[hippiedoll]

awww man!!!

i'm sorry to read about you having problems with your 806 washer. i hope you can get it working and that it is an easy fix for you floyde!!

if you don't work on washers, can you still get that one appliance repair guy to come over & help you with it??? i'll keep my fingers crossed for you that it is a simple solution to getting your 806 up & running real soon for you!!!

keep us posted on your progress...

 

[volvoguy87]

Stop Lug!

The drive pulley screws up onto the transmission shaft near the brake package. The pulley should be free to rotate a little bit on the shaft in either direction. One way will snug it up so it locks and turns the drum, the other way will cause it to drive the agitator shaft. How is this accomplished? The Stop Lug! (I hope I remembered the correct name.

The stop lug is the piece that looks like a washer with an extra lump on one side and a serrated interior hole. First the drive pulley screws on, then the stop lug is put on so its extra bit of material will contact a corresponding piece on the drive pulley. There is a washer that goes under the stop lug, and finally a Phillips head screw through the center of the washer to hold the washer and stop lug onto the bottom of the washer. A rubber cap is then placed on the bottom of the drive pulley as shown in your picture WITH some LUBRICANT inside to keep the slightly moving parts happy. Correct positioning of the stop lug is important to ensure that spin and agitate happen correctly.

Clear as mud?
Dave

 

[floyde]

Dave is this the stop luge?

 

[volvoguy87]

Yes.

That is the stop lug.

Dave

 

[beekeyknee]

You may have a worn out "O" ring in the transmission. That pulley's kind of a mess. Is there grease on the floor under the machine?

 

[beekeyknee]

This may help. It's old and you probably only need to read the part about the stop lug.

The stop lug is rounded on one side and flat on the other. When you're installing it put the rounded side to the floor. And the new washer on the screw, of course.

http://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?28069

 

[bendixmark]

Stop Lug

The stop lug must be properly placed on the splined driveshaft or the washer wont work right.Wind the pulley all the way onto the shaft first,then push the lug on opposite the stop on the pulley bottom.When the pulley turns counterclockwise down the shaft for agitate the lug on the pulley should contact the stopllug on the shaft and when it bottoms out there should be about one eighteenth of an in inch clearance("whats our clearance Clarence"?)between the lug on the pulley and the stoplug.Just enough to wiggle your fingernail in.This clearance is most important so that the pulley does not force the stoplug off the shaft which is what looked like happened here.You should be able to turn the pulley counterclockwise without excessive drag,that is an indication of a good gearcase.Once you have obtained the correct clearance you can install the securing screw.

 

[floyde]

This explains everything

The maytag tech I had took this off to look at the brake stop.
He lubricated it. Right after he left the knocking started.

This is what the link said would happen.

So all my issues started with his house all.

If I knew how easy the belts were to change I would have changed them.

Also what happened is there is also a whining sound at the beginning of the spun when the drain starts.
Could this also be another cause of this part not be installed properly?

 

[DigAPony]

That machine may have more issues beyond what the appliance tech possibly damaged,

Greasy residue in the tub means transmission oil is migrating up into the wash water and probably vice versa. Whining noise during the spin could be something as simple as the drive belt slipping or a worn tub bearing.

 

[combo52]

A806 Noise Problems

Hi Floyde, I am afraid that the service guy did more harm than good, I would seek a refund, there is absolutely no reason to ever lucubrate any part of the main pulley helix and if one knows anything about MT helical drive washers there is reason why the pulley should have ever come off after working on the machine.

John L.

 

[floyde]

Well I tried!

I tried to get the pulley back on but couldn't. He's coming back out to put it on. 90 day warranty on his work.

Is the Phillip's head screw a short screw or long. The screw disappeared. The washer was under little black cap broke in half but the screw wasn't there.

Oh well he is coming on Thursday.

The grease he put was on the brake gear, because it was making a load thud at the end of the spin.

Well< I'm learning a lot about vintage machines!

 

[DigAPony]

Don't let that guy near your machine, who knows what he'll damage next. I'd ask for refund as John suggested and find someone else.
The brake package on a Dependable Care MT gets a teaspoon (tablespoon?) of gear oil if needed, not grease.

BeeKeynee's link has a photo of the stop lug screw and washer.

 

[floyde]

One other question

Could it be possible that this pulley coming off do any damage to the motor?

I know that the motor reverses one way to agitate and one to spin.

I don't think I had the stop lug and drive lug set properly, but when I tested it it filled , spins, drains, but during wash cycle it spins also.

Could the motor have burnt out when the pulley came off.

Or could the lug not set up properly cause the washer to do this?

I've got so much invested in this machine I hope not!

 

[beekeyknee]

I doubt the motor was damaged. When the drive belt came off the motor carriage could have slid back and the motor shaft could have rubbed against the washer frame making a terrible sound but not damaging it.

You're washer could have some other issues and if you're able and can use the resources of the site, you'd probably be better off doing it yourself. Either that or getting an older fella that knows something about vintage machines.

A lot of kids these days neither have the knowledge or initiative to do anything but change a circuit board. When it comes to mechanics they're totally lost. They'd be better off in a computer store. I've gone into some local stores here and asked about certain parts and the kids stand and look at me with this dumbfounded look on their face. I get mad and and ask if there's anyone older around that understands how things work. Funny, I can work on a vintage washer or computer.

We're really making progress in the education of our young people, aren't we?

p.s. The whining sound at beginning of spin could be dirty pulleys and cheap belts that are glazing the pulleys. You need good Maytag belts with a generous covering of cloth and pulleys that have been cleaned well with a solvent and some steal wool tell they shine. I used FSP belts during my first rebuild and in a few months the squealing started and the glazing was back. It still works, but starts to squeal at the beginning of spin. It can squeal for now. It's going to get a substitute this fall. [this post was last edited: 7/6/2014-23:10]

 

[d-jones]

Floyde

Since you're here in L.A. I can recommend two places that are competent to work on the older Maytag's like this one. The first is Bob at Ralph's Maytag Repair here in Burbank. He's been working on Maytag's since the 1940's when he was a kid. Ralph was his dad and he grew up helping out in the shop, then took over the business. He's semi retired now but likes to work on the older machines, though he may ask that the machine be brought to him. The other place is Thrifty Appliance here in Burbank. They've been around a long time and have technicians in their shop that are familiar with this model, at least they did the last time I checked.

 

I have to agree with Brian here. A lot of the younger techs don't know these machines and don't really care to learn.