beekeyknee
Well-known member
You may have a worn out "O" ring in the transmission. That pulley's kind of a mess. Is there grease on the floor under the machine?
Help! My Maytag 806 made the most horrible noise
- Thread starter floyde
- Start date
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beekeyknee
Well-known member
This may help. It's old and you probably only need to read the part about the stop lug.
The stop lug is rounded on one side and flat on the other. When you're installing it put the rounded side to the floor. And the new washer on the screw, of course.
www.automaticwasher.org
The stop lug is rounded on one side and flat on the other. When you're installing it put the rounded side to the floor. And the new washer on the screw, of course.
Maytag A606 drive pulley install and stop lug adjustment
I'm moving ahead with my A606 repair. I'm at the assembly stage and I'm pulling a brain fart. I'm reassembling the drive pulley and stop/drive lug. As I spin the drive pulley on to the drive shaft it spins right up until it bottoms against the brake housing. That can't be right??? I'm not quite...
www.automaticwasher.org
bendixmark
Well-known member
Stop Lug
The stop lug must be properly placed on the splined driveshaft or the washer wont work right.Wind the pulley all the way onto the shaft first,then push the lug on opposite the stop on the pulley bottom.When the pulley turns counterclockwise down the shaft for agitate the lug on the pulley should contact the stopllug on the shaft and when it bottoms out there should be about one eighteenth of an in inch clearance("whats our clearance Clarence"?)between the lug on the pulley and the stoplug.Just enough to wiggle your fingernail in.This clearance is most important so that the pulley does not force the stoplug off the shaft which is what looked like happened here.You should be able to turn the pulley counterclockwise without excessive drag,that is an indication of a good gearcase.Once you have obtained the correct clearance you can install the securing screw.
The stop lug must be properly placed on the splined driveshaft or the washer wont work right.Wind the pulley all the way onto the shaft first,then push the lug on opposite the stop on the pulley bottom.When the pulley turns counterclockwise down the shaft for agitate the lug on the pulley should contact the stopllug on the shaft and when it bottoms out there should be about one eighteenth of an in inch clearance("whats our clearance Clarence"?)between the lug on the pulley and the stoplug.Just enough to wiggle your fingernail in.This clearance is most important so that the pulley does not force the stoplug off the shaft which is what looked like happened here.You should be able to turn the pulley counterclockwise without excessive drag,that is an indication of a good gearcase.Once you have obtained the correct clearance you can install the securing screw.
floyde
Well-known member
This explains everything
The maytag tech I had took this off to look at the brake stop.
He lubricated it. Right after he left the knocking started.
This is what the link said would happen.
So all my issues started with his house all.
If I knew how easy the belts were to change I would have changed them.
Also what happened is there is also a whining sound at the beginning of the spun when the drain starts.
Could this also be another cause of this part not be installed properly?
The maytag tech I had took this off to look at the brake stop.
He lubricated it. Right after he left the knocking started.
This is what the link said would happen.
So all my issues started with his house all.
If I knew how easy the belts were to change I would have changed them.
Also what happened is there is also a whining sound at the beginning of the spun when the drain starts.
Could this also be another cause of this part not be installed properly?
That machine may have more issues beyond what the appliance tech possibly damaged,
Greasy residue in the tub means transmission oil is migrating up into the wash water and probably vice versa. Whining noise during the spin could be something as simple as the drive belt slipping or a worn tub bearing.
Greasy residue in the tub means transmission oil is migrating up into the wash water and probably vice versa. Whining noise during the spin could be something as simple as the drive belt slipping or a worn tub bearing.
A806 Noise Problems
Hi Floyde, I am afraid that the service guy did more harm than good, I would seek a refund, there is absolutely no reason to ever lucubrate any part of the main pulley helix and if one knows anything about MT helical drive washers there is reason why the pulley should have ever come off after working on the machine.
John L.
Hi Floyde, I am afraid that the service guy did more harm than good, I would seek a refund, there is absolutely no reason to ever lucubrate any part of the main pulley helix and if one knows anything about MT helical drive washers there is reason why the pulley should have ever come off after working on the machine.
John L.
floyde
Well-known member
Well I tried!
I tried to get the pulley back on but couldn't. He's coming back out to put it on. 90 day warranty on his work.
Is the Phillip's head screw a short screw or long. The screw disappeared. The washer was under little black cap broke in half but the screw wasn't there.
Oh well he is coming on Thursday.
The grease he put was on the brake gear, because it was making a load thud at the end of the spin.
Well< I'm learning a lot about vintage machines!
I tried to get the pulley back on but couldn't. He's coming back out to put it on. 90 day warranty on his work.
Is the Phillip's head screw a short screw or long. The screw disappeared. The washer was under little black cap broke in half but the screw wasn't there.
Oh well he is coming on Thursday.
The grease he put was on the brake gear, because it was making a load thud at the end of the spin.
Well< I'm learning a lot about vintage machines!
Don't let that guy near your machine, who knows what he'll damage next. I'd ask for refund as John suggested and find someone else.
The brake package on a Dependable Care MT gets a teaspoon (tablespoon?) of gear oil if needed, not grease.
BeeKeynee's link has a photo of the stop lug screw and washer.
The brake package on a Dependable Care MT gets a teaspoon (tablespoon?) of gear oil if needed, not grease.
BeeKeynee's link has a photo of the stop lug screw and washer.
floyde
Well-known member
One other question
Could it be possible that this pulley coming off do any damage to the motor?
I know that the motor reverses one way to agitate and one to spin.
I don't think I had the stop lug and drive lug set properly, but when I tested it it filled , spins, drains, but during wash cycle it spins also.
Could the motor have burnt out when the pulley came off.
Or could the lug not set up properly cause the washer to do this?
I've got so much invested in this machine I hope not!
Could it be possible that this pulley coming off do any damage to the motor?
I know that the motor reverses one way to agitate and one to spin.
I don't think I had the stop lug and drive lug set properly, but when I tested it it filled , spins, drains, but during wash cycle it spins also.
Could the motor have burnt out when the pulley came off.
Or could the lug not set up properly cause the washer to do this?
I've got so much invested in this machine I hope not!
beekeyknee
Well-known member
I doubt the motor was damaged. When the drive belt came off the motor carriage could have slid back and the motor shaft could have rubbed against the washer frame making a terrible sound but not damaging it.
You're washer could have some other issues and if you're able and can use the resources of the site, you'd probably be better off doing it yourself. Either that or getting an older fella that knows something about vintage machines.
A lot of kids these days neither have the knowledge or initiative to do anything but change a circuit board. When it comes to mechanics they're totally lost. They'd be better off in a computer store. I've gone into some local stores here and asked about certain parts and the kids stand and look at me with this dumbfounded look on their face. I get mad and and ask if there's anyone older around that understands how things work. Funny, I can work on a vintage washer or computer.
We're really making progress in the education of our young people, aren't we?
p.s. The whining sound at beginning of spin could be dirty pulleys and cheap belts that are glazing the pulleys. You need good Maytag belts with a generous covering of cloth and pulleys that have been cleaned well with a solvent and some steal wool tell they shine. I used FSP belts during my first rebuild and in a few months the squealing started and the glazing was back. It still works, but starts to squeal at the beginning of spin. It can squeal for now. It's going to get a substitute this fall. [this post was last edited: 7/6/2014-23:10]
You're washer could have some other issues and if you're able and can use the resources of the site, you'd probably be better off doing it yourself. Either that or getting an older fella that knows something about vintage machines.
A lot of kids these days neither have the knowledge or initiative to do anything but change a circuit board. When it comes to mechanics they're totally lost. They'd be better off in a computer store. I've gone into some local stores here and asked about certain parts and the kids stand and look at me with this dumbfounded look on their face. I get mad and and ask if there's anyone older around that understands how things work. Funny, I can work on a vintage washer or computer.
We're really making progress in the education of our young people, aren't we?
p.s. The whining sound at beginning of spin could be dirty pulleys and cheap belts that are glazing the pulleys. You need good Maytag belts with a generous covering of cloth and pulleys that have been cleaned well with a solvent and some steal wool tell they shine. I used FSP belts during my first rebuild and in a few months the squealing started and the glazing was back. It still works, but starts to squeal at the beginning of spin. It can squeal for now. It's going to get a substitute this fall. [this post was last edited: 7/6/2014-23:10]
Floyde
Since you're here in L.A. I can recommend two places that are competent to work on the older Maytag's like this one. The first is Bob at Ralph's Maytag Repair here in Burbank. He's been working on Maytag's since the 1940's when he was a kid. Ralph was his dad and he grew up helping out in the shop, then took over the business. He's semi retired now but likes to work on the older machines, though he may ask that the machine be brought to him. The other place is Thrifty Appliance here in Burbank. They've been around a long time and have technicians in their shop that are familiar with this model, at least they did the last time I checked.
I have to agree with Brian here. A lot of the younger techs don't know these machines and don't really care to learn.
Since you're here in L.A. I can recommend two places that are competent to work on the older Maytag's like this one. The first is Bob at Ralph's Maytag Repair here in Burbank. He's been working on Maytag's since the 1940's when he was a kid. Ralph was his dad and he grew up helping out in the shop, then took over the business. He's semi retired now but likes to work on the older machines, though he may ask that the machine be brought to him. The other place is Thrifty Appliance here in Burbank. They've been around a long time and have technicians in their shop that are familiar with this model, at least they did the last time I checked.
I have to agree with Brian here. A lot of the younger techs don't know these machines and don't really care to learn.
floyde
Well-known member
She's back in service !
hippiedoll
Well-known member
WOOOOOO HOOOOOOOO!!!!
ALRIIIIIIIIIGHT!!!!!
i am so happy that you got your 806 back up & running. she looks beautiful in all her green & glowing glory!!!
YYYYYAAAAAAYYYYYY!!!!
)
so, how did you get your baby back up & running again?? did the guy come out to do the repairs or send someone else out in his place? or did you get someone else to help you??
enquiring minds want to know.....
ALRIIIIIIIIIGHT!!!!!
i am so happy that you got your 806 back up & running. she looks beautiful in all her green & glowing glory!!!
YYYYYAAAAAAYYYYYY!!!!
)so, how did you get your baby back up & running again?? did the guy come out to do the repairs or send someone else out in his place? or did you get someone else to help you??
enquiring minds want to know.....
floyde
Well-known member
Fixed but with questions please.
1. The locking lug is at the 6 o'clock position when the pulley is turned clockwise all the way to top where it can no longer move the pulley wheel. Is this correct ? (it is mentioned by someone the 6 o'clock position on the message board)
2. When the pulley is turned counter clockwise for the release the locking lug is now not quite at the nine o'clock positions as suggested, but at about 10 o'clock position, a little shy of the 1/4 inch to 3/8 that is recommend.
Is this what is causing the knocking noise I'm hearing mostly on heavier loads bing towels and rugs? BUT IT SEEMS IF THE 6 IS CORRECT AND IT DEFAULTS WHEN RELEASED TO The 10 O'CLOCK WHICH IS MORE IMPORTANT SETTING THE 9 OCLOCK POSITION WOULDN'T IT NOT STRT AT 6 OCLOCK? WHICH POSITION DO YOU SET FIRST FOR THEM BOTH TO END UP IN PROPER ALIGNMENT?
3. The Maytag washer to be used with the screw to attach the locking lug was $18 almost on the repair parts site. The first one that broke in half I don't think was this Maytag washer, but just a regular washer.
The repairman didn't have that specific part and had I ordered online to get ON TIME w shipping when I needed it would have been $ 40. Seems very expensive
The repairman used 2 regular washers. How Important is using the Maytag $18 washer that someone sent me the link to? I'm I okay with just using 2 regular washers> Has anyone done this instead of the Maytag part?
4. When you say the locking lug needs to be place rounded side down do you mean that it should be rounded side facing the floor?
The repairman came back to fix it. He did it for free as part of the 90 day warranty. He spent 90 minutes there.
The belts that he previously changed out are authorized Maytag belts. He said there was a little snag on the belt and he cleaned that off.
I showed him the diagram when he put the pulley back on leaving the distance .
So the washer is working again. I still have a knocking noise on heavy loads. Is this because the lug needs to be perfecto at the 9 o'clock position, but if the 6 position is there as stated should be when pulley has no give after benign turned all the way clockwise and it ends at under 1/4 ,
of an inch when it released how do you change that.?
But the knocking sound really is just on heavy loads.
The whining sound is still there when the spin throws the water for about 15 second.
I'm watching things closely. I am smelling a little rubber burning smell from the new belts. I didn't knot ice before.
But Im on the floor with my nose right up to the belts which I didn't do before. It's very faint smell, but is this natural to have this faint smell on new belts.
I think all of this started the knocking and squealing as stated above after he put the machine back together.
He didn't comment on that, but did get it back together and I showed him the diagram
Is the lock not being at 9 o'clock position the culprit? The spin actually seems to be quieter with the new belts and his current viit
Should I get the Maytag washer from the repair parts site for $18?
I explained the two noises didn't start until he changed out the old belts and seemed the pulley washing put back on and added lubrication to the brake .
He said it could be the brake assembly or a bearing issue. But why did they start after his initial visit?
It's a a 35 year old machine and everything works perfect with the exception of the 2 noises. Should I just live with it?
Thanks so much everyone!
I can't put anymore money into .
1. The locking lug is at the 6 o'clock position when the pulley is turned clockwise all the way to top where it can no longer move the pulley wheel. Is this correct ? (it is mentioned by someone the 6 o'clock position on the message board)
2. When the pulley is turned counter clockwise for the release the locking lug is now not quite at the nine o'clock positions as suggested, but at about 10 o'clock position, a little shy of the 1/4 inch to 3/8 that is recommend.
Is this what is causing the knocking noise I'm hearing mostly on heavier loads bing towels and rugs? BUT IT SEEMS IF THE 6 IS CORRECT AND IT DEFAULTS WHEN RELEASED TO The 10 O'CLOCK WHICH IS MORE IMPORTANT SETTING THE 9 OCLOCK POSITION WOULDN'T IT NOT STRT AT 6 OCLOCK? WHICH POSITION DO YOU SET FIRST FOR THEM BOTH TO END UP IN PROPER ALIGNMENT?
3. The Maytag washer to be used with the screw to attach the locking lug was $18 almost on the repair parts site. The first one that broke in half I don't think was this Maytag washer, but just a regular washer.
The repairman didn't have that specific part and had I ordered online to get ON TIME w shipping when I needed it would have been $ 40. Seems very expensive
The repairman used 2 regular washers. How Important is using the Maytag $18 washer that someone sent me the link to? I'm I okay with just using 2 regular washers> Has anyone done this instead of the Maytag part?
4. When you say the locking lug needs to be place rounded side down do you mean that it should be rounded side facing the floor?
The repairman came back to fix it. He did it for free as part of the 90 day warranty. He spent 90 minutes there.
The belts that he previously changed out are authorized Maytag belts. He said there was a little snag on the belt and he cleaned that off.
I showed him the diagram when he put the pulley back on leaving the distance .
So the washer is working again. I still have a knocking noise on heavy loads. Is this because the lug needs to be perfecto at the 9 o'clock position, but if the 6 position is there as stated should be when pulley has no give after benign turned all the way clockwise and it ends at under 1/4 ,
of an inch when it released how do you change that.?
But the knocking sound really is just on heavy loads.
The whining sound is still there when the spin throws the water for about 15 second.
I'm watching things closely. I am smelling a little rubber burning smell from the new belts. I didn't knot ice before.
But Im on the floor with my nose right up to the belts which I didn't do before. It's very faint smell, but is this natural to have this faint smell on new belts.
I think all of this started the knocking and squealing as stated above after he put the machine back together.
He didn't comment on that, but did get it back together and I showed him the diagram
Is the lock not being at 9 o'clock position the culprit? The spin actually seems to be quieter with the new belts and his current viit
Should I get the Maytag washer from the repair parts site for $18?
I explained the two noises didn't start until he changed out the old belts and seemed the pulley washing put back on and added lubrication to the brake .
He said it could be the brake assembly or a bearing issue. But why did they start after his initial visit?
It's a a 35 year old machine and everything works perfect with the exception of the 2 noises. Should I just live with it?
Thanks so much everyone!
I can't put anymore money into .
