Hi, I own a Hoover Ecologic washer dryer 1300 and it's been a great machine but the water doesn't now cut off when filling. I believe the timer/programmer is faulty. Hoover have been great and I've been able to purchase a replacement part from them for sensible money. However, I'm rather struggling to remove the old one which is a bit silly. Please can anyone advise? I've drained the machine, disconnected electrics etc and removed the top cover ok. Do I remove the front panel covering the controls first, as it doesn't seem to want to come off? I can also see a small top screw linked to a plate just behind the controls, should that come out? Thanks very much for the help. Regards, Andy
Hoover Ecologic washer dryer 1300
- Thread starter andyg
- Start date
Help Support :
Hi Andy before you remove the timer....
Have you checked the pressure switch bottle on the back of the machine? These were notorious for getting blocked and either too much water or not enough..!
Austin
Have you checked the pressure switch bottle on the back of the machine? These were notorious for getting blocked and either too much water or not enough..!
Austin
Hi Austin, Thanks for the reply. I'm an amateur here so forgive me as I don't understand what you are talking about. However, in saying the water didn't cut off the last time I used the machine I used pro L, Gentle refresh and water came in but didn't stop and I had to turn the electricity off and drain down manually. Before purchasing the timer an electrician friend and I tried a couple of further programmes. Firstly, pro G, the 1300 spin - any residual water was expelled but the machine wouldn't move onto spin. Secondly, pro J, Minimum Iron and that's when the cold water solenoid wanted to draw water in and wouldn't stop, no water was connected at that time. Does this help and does it change your suggestion? regards, Andy
ariston4life
Well-known member
its definitly a fault with the pressure switch bottle id say...dont replace the timer before checking the pressure switch bottle
rolls_rapide
Well-known member
Pressure bottle
This is a small bottle of opaque plastic that captures air as the water level rises in the machine. There should be a long plastic tube (clear or maybe red) that links to an electrical pressure switch. DO NOT tamper with this pressure switch. There are screws that are factory set. Leave them alone
The bottom end of this hose "the bottle" end, might be connected to the bottom of the tub, or more likely on the Ecologic range, the sump/drain pump assembly.
The problem is, modern zeolite powders, fluff, grease and maybe bits of forgotten tissues can block this small diameter bottle. So can small coins. If it is blocked, the machine thinks it is empty when it is actually already filled with water - leading to overfilling. It also prevents spinning, because the machine thinks it already has water in it.
Clear the obstruction and the machine should operate normally. This is the least expensive course of action.
This is a small bottle of opaque plastic that captures air as the water level rises in the machine. There should be a long plastic tube (clear or maybe red) that links to an electrical pressure switch. DO NOT tamper with this pressure switch. There are screws that are factory set. Leave them alone
The bottom end of this hose "the bottle" end, might be connected to the bottom of the tub, or more likely on the Ecologic range, the sump/drain pump assembly.
The problem is, modern zeolite powders, fluff, grease and maybe bits of forgotten tissues can block this small diameter bottle. So can small coins. If it is blocked, the machine thinks it is empty when it is actually already filled with water - leading to overfilling. It also prevents spinning, because the machine thinks it already has water in it.
Clear the obstruction and the machine should operate normally. This is the least expensive course of action.
Wow thanks so much to everyone particularly Rolls rapide. As I've bought the timer it looks like I will have to go back to Hoover cap in hand and see if they will accept returns and refund me. I've never used one of these forums before so it just shows I should have tried here first. I'll definitely look at this small bottle in the morning and as you say it is connected to the sump/drain pump. Thanks very much again, Andy
Andy the easiest way to check it is..
Rolls beat me to the description which is cool as saved my fingers lol.!
Try removing the tube off the pressure switch be careful not to snap the neck off and blow down it !
If you cannot do so then there is a blockage that you have to fix if you can blow down it easily its another problem.
Let us know how it goes we can and will help all we can.
Austin
Rolls beat me to the description which is cool as saved my fingers lol.!
Try removing the tube off the pressure switch be careful not to snap the neck off and blow down it !
If you cannot do so then there is a blockage that you have to fix if you can blow down it easily its another problem.
Let us know how it goes we can and will help all we can.
Austin
Hi Austin and Rolls, Sorry chaps but this doesn't appear to be the problem. I took off the opaque bottle and the end of the red tube on the pressure switch. I could blow down easily. There was only a small amount of gunge around the edge of the opaque bottle which I've cleaned out along with any in the bottom hose by the drain pump. I've refitted though it was very fiddly; I'm really not keen on strong spring jubilee clips!
I haven't said but as a single guy this machine hasn't had much use over the years.
Can you help me with any other ideas? I still have the new timer/programmer.
Thanks a lot. Andy
I haven't said but as a single guy this machine hasn't had much use over the years.
Can you help me with any other ideas? I still have the new timer/programmer.
Thanks a lot. Andy
electron1100
Well-known member
overfill
Well i would have totally agreed with the suggestions about the pressure bottle, this is a common fault on old Hoover machines
now what about a sticky water inlet valve.
Do you have hot and cold fill connected?, when the machine is filling if you have the top off you should be able to hear the water inlet valves buzzing/humming, you will also hear the water level switch click when it reaches the required level of water, if this happens switch the machine off and see if it stops filling,, if it doent stop filling then you have a sticky inlet valve.
Thats my suggestion for the next place to look
Gary
Well i would have totally agreed with the suggestions about the pressure bottle, this is a common fault on old Hoover machines
now what about a sticky water inlet valve.
Do you have hot and cold fill connected?, when the machine is filling if you have the top off you should be able to hear the water inlet valves buzzing/humming, you will also hear the water level switch click when it reaches the required level of water, if this happens switch the machine off and see if it stops filling,, if it doent stop filling then you have a sticky inlet valve.
Thats my suggestion for the next place to look
Gary
Hi Gary, thanks. No the water supplies aren't connected now. You're right that the water will not cut off per my post 2 above. Can I take off the valves and clean to fix this problem or do I need to buy new H & C inlet valves? Is this foxing the programmer into thinking there isn't enough water in? Regards, Andy
electron1100
Well-known member
Getting It Out
Andy if you want to take out the programmer, i can vaguely remember how to do it, you will need a long cross head screw driver preferebly magnetized.
As far as i recall there are only 3 screws holding the entire assembly on.
The programmer is mounted on a metal bracket. there is one screw on the top of this, and if you look to the bottom left and right of it you should see a screw down there, if you remove these as well the whole assembly should come away, I think the time line mechansim stays in place so dont move it, make sure the programmer is in a "stop" postiion other wise you will have to take off and re-align the time line dipslay
Let me know if this matches your machine
If not take some pictures
Gary
Andy if you want to take out the programmer, i can vaguely remember how to do it, you will need a long cross head screw driver preferebly magnetized.
As far as i recall there are only 3 screws holding the entire assembly on.
The programmer is mounted on a metal bracket. there is one screw on the top of this, and if you look to the bottom left and right of it you should see a screw down there, if you remove these as well the whole assembly should come away, I think the time line mechansim stays in place so dont move it, make sure the programmer is in a "stop" postiion other wise you will have to take off and re-align the time line dipslay
Let me know if this matches your machine
If not take some pictures
Gary
Getting Timer apart
Hi Gary, Forgive me for the couple of days delay responding. I've got the timer out but cannot now get the metal plate off the old timer to place on the new one. The retaining screws are under the bevelled plastic that links with the control wheel - a real conundrum. I've tried to carefully pull off the control wheel but it doesn't want to move. Unfortunately I cannot get the end of the old timer off either as one retaining screw is under the metal plate! Obviously I cannot be good at puzzles! Photo attached. Thanks for your help. Andy
Hi Gary, Forgive me for the couple of days delay responding. I've got the timer out but cannot now get the metal plate off the old timer to place on the new one. The retaining screws are under the bevelled plastic that links with the control wheel - a real conundrum. I've tried to carefully pull off the control wheel but it doesn't want to move. Unfortunately I cannot get the end of the old timer off either as one retaining screw is under the metal plate! Obviously I cannot be good at puzzles! Photo attached. Thanks for your help. Andy
Help please with Timer
Hi, Well I thought I had correctly relocated the 7 blocks of connectors on the new timer but the timer is just going around so it looks like I've got this all wrong, very silly and I'm careful. So here is a photo of the side of the old timer. The seven blocks of connectors have dots on the top of each 1 thru to 7 along with colours. If I match up the order 1 to 7 as I believe they came out by the way the colours on the top of the timer and connectors don't match up. Has anyone got any ideas please? Thanks very much, Andy
Hi, Well I thought I had correctly relocated the 7 blocks of connectors on the new timer but the timer is just going around so it looks like I've got this all wrong, very silly and I'm careful. So here is a photo of the side of the old timer. The seven blocks of connectors have dots on the top of each 1 thru to 7 along with colours. If I match up the order 1 to 7 as I believe they came out by the way the colours on the top of the timer and connectors don't match up. Has anyone got any ideas please? Thanks very much, Andy
electron1100
Well-known member
Wiring
Hello andy
Have a look at each connector and see if the pins match the pins on the programmer, I see some are not there this may help, you might find that one connector only has 3 pins missing and this will go with the programmer connector strip with the same 3 pins missing, dont go swapping them around for the sake of it you could do some damage.
Fianlly give me the model number of the machine and the timer and i will see if i have a wiring diagram for it.
Gary
Hello andy
Have a look at each connector and see if the pins match the pins on the programmer, I see some are not there this may help, you might find that one connector only has 3 pins missing and this will go with the programmer connector strip with the same 3 pins missing, dont go swapping them around for the sake of it you could do some damage.
Fianlly give me the model number of the machine and the timer and i will see if i have a wiring diagram for it.
Gary
Gary
Wow thanks again. Would you believe none of the pins holes in any of the connector strips match with the pins on the timer. The good news is that the pins on the new timer do match those on the old one. Thank you so much for offering to look at any diagrams you have. The machine is an Ecologic washer/dryer 1300 Serial number A858220101919. The Timer type is 88 718 037.
Andy
Wow thanks again. Would you believe none of the pins holes in any of the connector strips match with the pins on the timer. The good news is that the pins on the new timer do match those on the old one. Thank you so much for offering to look at any diagrams you have. The machine is an Ecologic washer/dryer 1300 Serial number A858220101919. The Timer type is 88 718 037.
Andy
supermaticjames
Well-known member
A small request...
Hi Andy,
All the best on getting your machine going again, I wish I could help but Hoover autos are not my expertise. Could you possibly take a picture of the drying system as I haven't a clue about what the Hoover washer/dryer system looks like compared to Hotpoint's.
James.
Hi Andy,
All the best on getting your machine going again, I wish I could help but Hoover autos are not my expertise. Could you possibly take a picture of the drying system as I haven't a clue about what the Hoover washer/dryer system looks like compared to Hotpoint's.
James.
