Hot Water Heater Issue

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I insulated the hot water pipes under the house about seven years ago, and it did make a difference. Not so much in the gas bill, but in the ability of the pipes to retain heat in the water during periodic use.

I have noticed there are two different types of pipe insulation. The cheaper stuff - which is mostly what I used - seems to be a kind of foamed polyethylene. It's ok. The other stuff, which costs two to three times as much, looks like foamed EPDM rubber. It's a bit thicker and probably insulates better as well. In either case, whenever I go to my local Home Depots, they are OUT of the size I would need ;-(. Most of the piping here is 1/2" steel, which takes the same size insulation as 3/4" copper. There is some copper under the house, such as serving the master bath addition. In any case, at some point I'm going to replace all the steel with copper (except to one or two hard to get to locations) and then re-insulate with the better stuff. I already bought nearly all the copper pipe (3/4 for the main runs and 1/2 for the faucets); it's just a matter of getting into better shape to do all the crawling, and practicing my pipe sweating as well. I'm also thinking of adding more laundry faucet drops - such as in the enclosed patio and maybe even out on the covered patio. And also upgrade the workshop water connection from a garden hose to real pipe ;-). I'll probably replace the 30 year old gas fired water heater at the same time. It's been working fine and I replaced the original anode rod about five years ago, but I suppose it will fail sooner or later. It does bump a bit from sediment that's collected at the bottom; flushing it doesn't dislodge it.
 
My problem with the pressure valve left as quickly as it came. I think it has something to do with the temperature of the basement. When it gets really cold down there it will leak, usually when it is below zero outside, now that it has warmed up it doesn't leak.
 
Tax Credit

Well, I have already qualified for the tax credit so that is out of the question.

As for efficiency, anything out there is more efficient than what I have now.

Malcolm
 
You need

a tankless water heater! Never run out of hot water and don't pay for a holding tank. In the summer my gas bill for the water heater runs about $15.00 a month. So far this winter the highest gas bill I have is $81.00 and that includes the tankless waterheater and 5 gas log sets in the fireplaces. Since the is 213 years old I only heat the rooms I have in use but over the holidays I kept the gas logs in the fireplaces going quiet a bit. The tankless heater has more than paid for itself. You really should check out the option of a tankless!

Greg in Sparta
 
Tankless is fine if you don't want really hot water, check the temp rise and your incoming water temp. Also if you need volume you need a large gas line. I looked into it, but for me it would not work out. I like my water at 150-160 and we have several baths and a properly sized unit would cost $$$$ and not give me the hot water I like.
 
I inquired about a tankless heater also and it wasn't worth it for me either even when I could rent one for $29/month. Because I am on a well, the incoming water is very cold and the energy required to bring the water up to a hot enough temperature very quickly offset any energy being used to keep the water hot in my regular hot water tank. Also, living way up here where it can go down to -30C, there have been problems with the units freezing up.

Gary
 
Tankless = No payback

Yes, I would have to have a bigger gas line, electrician run power to the unit, and cut an additional vent either out the side wall of the garage or through the roof?

NO THANKS!

Malcolm
 
Water Heater Replaced

Well, the plumbers just left about an hour ago. My water heater has been replaced. Here is a picture of the new unit. Thank goodness this issue has been put to bed.

mrb627++1-28-2010-12-02-37.jpg
 
NICE UNIT!

Interesting to see that flexile gas connctors are allowed. In NYC one MUST hard-plumb in boilers and hot water heaters.

No flexible connectors allowed for the gas, and I believe for the water ins and outs as well.

It is my understanding that in California one MUST use flexible connectors (and stap the unit to a wall) to help prevent damage from earthquakes. I was also intrigued by the seismic vales that cut-off gas service when the place is-a-rockin-and-a-rolin'.
 
Hi Malcolm:

What is the BTU/hour input? And how many gallons does it store/contain?

40,000 BTU for 40 gallons
50,000 BTU for 50 gallons
65,000 BTU for 65 gallons

In my opinion the above is about averge. Better than that(more heat per gallon) and you have a more TOL model; Worse than that you have a BOL model.

Is the "ProMax" designation hinting as to heat input, or construction indirectly via warranty length?
 
Steve,

We have flexible connections for our stove, and water heater (yellow tubing), and the same type as pictured above for our furnace. Our 11 1/2yo 40gal. Ruud w/ power vent, has a BTU/hour input of 40,000.
 
Here,we have the tankless water heaters and have mine set at 160FThey're great but you have to maintain them and keep the residue from building up.They do save a lot of money on gas and electric expenses.Bosch being my choice because the warranty is 15 years.We sell them for $699 and can't keep them in stock.We also have a portable unit by Ecosmart that has a built in shower and hooks up to a garden hose.It uses 2 D cell batteries.A lot of campers buy them and use them in the valley where they camp.
 
~It uses 2 D cell batteries.

LOL IN ADDITION TO propane gas, I'm sure. :-)

I hear the newer ones use a water-wheel to generate the igntion spark to ignite the gas.

(Look ma! A new toy with no batteries and no electricity required!)... and it's hot!
 
Yes, here in California, all gas appliances must be connected to the rigid gas pipe via a flexible connector. Brass and copper are no longer allowed; new flex connections must be stainless. And yes, water heaters by law have to be secured to the frame of the building via sturdy strapping, to prevent them from falling over in a quake and starting a fire. Water heaters in spaces where cars or flammables are stored have to be elevated off the floor on special stands (this is because the flammable fumes usually sink to the floor).
 
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