Console paint color
Here you go............
Looks like "BHA0905" (B26M)
Here you go............
Looks like "BHA0905" (B26M)
I Bit the Buillet -- The Matag A407 is Mine
- Thread starter eurekastar
- Start date
Help Support :
good-shepherd
Well-known member
oven cleaner to clean up all the grung
Over cleaner is nasty stuff and can remove paint.
Trans oil slinging should clean up easy with any mild degreaser.
Over cleaner is nasty stuff and can remove paint.
Trans oil slinging should clean up easy with any mild degreaser.
Simple Green or Dawn dishwashing liquid.
eurekastar
Well-known member
buttons
I found some new buttons for the water level switch but I'm having a heck of a time getting the old ones to pop off. Is there a trick? I don't want to damage them!
I found some new buttons for the water level switch but I'm having a heck of a time getting the old ones to pop off. Is there a trick? I don't want to damage them!
No trick. Sometimes they come right off, and other times you destroy them.
Degreaser
I've been using LA's Awesome I get at the dollar store. You can use it straight or cut it with water. Its amazing stuff and if you get it in a cut doesnt sting, but of course you should be using latex gloves anyways. I would use it on every inch of that washer except the buttons as it may remove the words. Its a great all around household cleaner and cheap.
I've been using LA's Awesome I get at the dollar store. You can use it straight or cut it with water. Its amazing stuff and if you get it in a cut doesnt sting, but of course you should be using latex gloves anyways. I would use it on every inch of that washer except the buttons as it may remove the words. Its a great all around household cleaner and cheap.
I second what John wrote. You can't get a better cleaner for a buck. But beware of using it on painted surfaces. It WILL eat away at the paint if you let it sit.
eurekastar
Well-known member
I started the clean up yesterday and so far the Simple Green is doing a good job!
eurekastar
Well-known member
Transmission Seal
I'm pretty sure the lower transmission seal is leaking since there is oil all over the transmission pulley. I'm waiting on a brake removal tool to arrive so that I can look at it. My question is this: Can the new style seal be used on the old counter balance transmission? Thanks for any reply!
I'm pretty sure the lower transmission seal is leaking since there is oil all over the transmission pulley. I'm waiting on a brake removal tool to arrive so that I can look at it. My question is this: Can the new style seal be used on the old counter balance transmission? Thanks for any reply!
new style seal be used on the old style...
Unfortunately, the answer to this is no. The 1985 and later seal does not work on the earlier versions of the pitman arm transmissions.
The only way to change the "seal" or o-ring is to do a complete transmission disassembly, pry out the old and more than likely brittle o-ring out and replace.
Maytags are wonderful washing machines, but these 40-50 year old o-rings often times give out and no longer hold back the oil as these machines have surpassed the expected engineered life span.
Ben[this post was last edited: 9/24/2018-14:10]
Unfortunately, the answer to this is no. The 1985 and later seal does not work on the earlier versions of the pitman arm transmissions.
The only way to change the "seal" or o-ring is to do a complete transmission disassembly, pry out the old and more than likely brittle o-ring out and replace.
Maytags are wonderful washing machines, but these 40-50 year old o-rings often times give out and no longer hold back the oil as these machines have surpassed the expected engineered life span.
Ben[this post was last edited: 9/24/2018-14:10]
good-shepherd
Well-known member
waiting on a brake removal tool to arrive
The brake removal tool isn't necessary to inspect or remove the transmission.
As mentioned, the trans needs to be totally disassembled to replace the lower oil seal oil ring.
A messy job but the trans oil is probably pretty goopy at this point anyway and you're going to have the tub off, or almost off, to replace the mounting stem/ tub bearing. Pulling the trans is just a few more minutes work.
The brake removal tool isn't necessary to inspect or remove the transmission.
As mentioned, the trans needs to be totally disassembled to replace the lower oil seal oil ring.
A messy job but the trans oil is probably pretty goopy at this point anyway and you're going to have the tub off, or almost off, to replace the mounting stem/ tub bearing. Pulling the trans is just a few more minutes work.
eurekastar
Well-known member
Thanks for the advice! I've thought about removing the transmission and servicing it. Looks like I'll need to do that anyway! I think the biggest challenge will be getting the agitator off after almost 44 years of service! I just tried to pop it off and it's not going to budge easily!
eurekastar
Well-known member
Anything else?
Is there anything else I might need to service the transmission besides a new O ring, gasket, and oil?
Is there anything else I might need to service the transmission besides a new O ring, gasket, and oil?
good-shepherd
Well-known member
anything else I might need
The nylon pinion gear and lug washer are wear items in the trans but unless they are in really bad shape its fine to reuse them.
The gear oil should be Maytag oil or GL-4 gear oil such as Sta-lube.
The nylon pinion gear and lug washer are wear items in the trans but unless they are in really bad shape its fine to reuse them.
The gear oil should be Maytag oil or GL-4 gear oil such as Sta-lube.
Rebuilding A MT DC Transmission
The most important thing you need is a decent agitator shaft and top cover with decent bearings to have a good rebuild.
These are the reasons that most of our customers get rid of their MTDC washers.
The number one thing that kills these MTDC washers is a bad agitator shaft and top bearings., [ it usually tightens up to the point that it won't agitate any longer ]
The number two thing is a snubber that has lost its pads and has torn up the aluminum damper and the steel base plate.
Number three a transmission that is leaking oil so badly that it is making a major mess and is also interfering with the proper clutching action of the main drive belt.
John L.
The most important thing you need is a decent agitator shaft and top cover with decent bearings to have a good rebuild.
These are the reasons that most of our customers get rid of their MTDC washers.
The number one thing that kills these MTDC washers is a bad agitator shaft and top bearings., [ it usually tightens up to the point that it won't agitate any longer ]
The number two thing is a snubber that has lost its pads and has torn up the aluminum damper and the steel base plate.
Number three a transmission that is leaking oil so badly that it is making a major mess and is also interfering with the proper clutching action of the main drive belt.
John L.
hippiedoll
Well-known member
biggest challenge will be getting the agitator off...
A really good tip shared with me a couple years ago...
1. Remove the lint filter from the top of the agitator.
2. Take a hairdryer, set it at it's highest heat setting, turn it on, and put the blowing end of the hairdryer down into the barrel of the agitator.
3. Leave the hairdryer on, blowing down into the barrel of the agitator, for about 5 minutes. That should be enough time to heat up & soften the agitator.
4. Take the hairdryer out of the barrel, turn it off & put it out of the way. Now reach down under the agitator skirt and try and pull up on the agitator. It should pop off pretty easily, being warmed up from the hairdryer.
If not, try the hairdryer again for a little longer.
GOOD LUCK!
Keep us posted & let us know how that works for you.
)
A really good tip shared with me a couple years ago...
1. Remove the lint filter from the top of the agitator.
2. Take a hairdryer, set it at it's highest heat setting, turn it on, and put the blowing end of the hairdryer down into the barrel of the agitator.
3. Leave the hairdryer on, blowing down into the barrel of the agitator, for about 5 minutes. That should be enough time to heat up & soften the agitator.
4. Take the hairdryer out of the barrel, turn it off & put it out of the way. Now reach down under the agitator skirt and try and pull up on the agitator. It should pop off pretty easily, being warmed up from the hairdryer.
If not, try the hairdryer again for a little longer.
GOOD LUCK!
Keep us posted & let us know how that works for you.
)
eurekastar
Well-known member
@ hippiedoll
Thanks! I'll give that a try tomorrow! While I no longer have hair, I still own a hair dryer for some reason! LOL!
Thanks! I'll give that a try tomorrow! While I no longer have hair, I still own a hair dryer for some reason! LOL!
eurekastar
Well-known member
agitator removal
I tried the hair dryer trick a couple of times this morning for five minutes each (back to back) and it wouldn't budge. I don't want to pull too hard from the base, lest I break the plastic.
I have a couple more tricks up my sleeve. I think I'll try pouring boiling water down the barrel of the agitator and see if that does the trick. If that doesn't work, there's one more trick I'll try before destroying the agitator to get it off!
I tried the hair dryer trick a couple of times this morning for five minutes each (back to back) and it wouldn't budge. I don't want to pull too hard from the base, lest I break the plastic.
I have a couple more tricks up my sleeve. I think I'll try pouring boiling water down the barrel of the agitator and see if that does the trick. If that doesn't work, there's one more trick I'll try before destroying the agitator to get it off!
When I got my Maytag, I had to replace the tub seal, and the agitator was really stuck on. I took some strong clothesline and ran it up and down inside the middle of the agitator (where the filter goes), sort of making a web, and attached that to a slide hammer. After a dozen or so good hammers, off it came with no damage. In case anyone here doesn't know what a slide hammer is, it's an auto body tool for pulling dents.
eurekastar
Well-known member
Pilot Light Lens
Well, I stupidly broke the pilot light lens when removing the light. Does anyone know where I might find one or can anyone point me to a good substitute? I know those things are used on a lot of different stuff, so surely there must be a source! Thanks for any thoughts or help!
I found a new light but it is useless without the lens since the lens holds the light assemble on.
Well, I stupidly broke the pilot light lens when removing the light. Does anyone know where I might find one or can anyone point me to a good substitute? I know those things are used on a lot of different stuff, so surely there must be a source! Thanks for any thoughts or help!
I found a new light but it is useless without the lens since the lens holds the light assemble on.
