Earlier than '65. Our 1962 had a mercury-capsule lid switch, functioning only in the spin solenoid circuit.
Inglis TO-41001 Commercial Belt Drive Rebuild -A few questions-
- Thread starter vegabass25
- Start date
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Earlier than '65. Our 1962 had a mercury-capsule lid switch, functioning only in the spin solenoid circuit.
ragnboneman
Well-known member
Those Mercury switches were banned for environmental reasons.
Called a "wetted contact" they would basically last the life of the machines they were in.
Anything new has a dry set of contact and unfortunately they don't last as long
Now for something important!!!!!!!
If you have a mercury spill because you broke a switch do not sweep brush or vacuum it up
Do not touch or spread it around until you are ready to clean up.
You will need some rubber gloves and an air tight container to put all this waste in when your done
If you can squeegee or rubber spatula scrap it into a poodle collect it with an eye dropper or something like that.
You don't want to spread it around!
If you plan ahead because you know you are going to work with this stuff or your a gardener you may have some powdered Sulphur around.
This will bind with the metal and make it easier clean up
Open windows and ventilate area for as long as you can to get rid of any vapours.
Call your local waste disposal aka the toxic taxi in your area for waste oil and old CFL bulbs ect.
Tell them what you have neatly label it and see if you have anything else you want to get rid of too like old insecticide, waste oil, paint, solvents.
label all these things clearly and do not mix them with anything else
Keep in original containers for easier identification.
Make an appointment or collection, or drop it off at their disposal site but don't throw it in the garbage
Google this stuff
learn the right things to do.
Have a plan in place if you break anything containing mercury or toxic materials.
Called a "wetted contact" they would basically last the life of the machines they were in.
Anything new has a dry set of contact and unfortunately they don't last as long
Now for something important!!!!!!!
If you have a mercury spill because you broke a switch do not sweep brush or vacuum it up
Do not touch or spread it around until you are ready to clean up.
You will need some rubber gloves and an air tight container to put all this waste in when your done
If you can squeegee or rubber spatula scrap it into a poodle collect it with an eye dropper or something like that.
You don't want to spread it around!
If you plan ahead because you know you are going to work with this stuff or your a gardener you may have some powdered Sulphur around.
This will bind with the metal and make it easier clean up
Open windows and ventilate area for as long as you can to get rid of any vapours.
Call your local waste disposal aka the toxic taxi in your area for waste oil and old CFL bulbs ect.
Tell them what you have neatly label it and see if you have anything else you want to get rid of too like old insecticide, waste oil, paint, solvents.
label all these things clearly and do not mix them with anything else
Keep in original containers for easier identification.
Make an appointment or collection, or drop it off at their disposal site but don't throw it in the garbage
Google this stuff
learn the right things to do.
Have a plan in place if you break anything containing mercury or toxic materials.
vegabass25
Active member
John-
I just tried standing in basket and shifting weight around, changing positions for around 30 mins. Not budging yet. It's a stubborn one, But I'll keep trying. May try heating up the baskets center post carefully with my heat gun later on. WD-40 soaked in overnight too. It's a tough one.
Ragnboneman-
I am always careful with anything containing mercury. Makes for the best switches ever. thanks for the cleanup tips if I ever have a spill in the future. My hobbies and doing my own oil changes have me visiting the hazwaste depot often lol
Cheers everyone. Will report back after more basket removal attempts.
I just tried standing in basket and shifting weight around, changing positions for around 30 mins. Not budging yet. It's a stubborn one, But I'll keep trying. May try heating up the baskets center post carefully with my heat gun later on. WD-40 soaked in overnight too. It's a tough one.
Ragnboneman-
I am always careful with anything containing mercury. Makes for the best switches ever. thanks for the cleanup tips if I ever have a spill in the future. My hobbies and doing my own oil changes have me visiting the hazwaste depot often lol
Cheers everyone. Will report back after more basket removal attempts.
vegabass25
Active member
Gearcase removal
An update on progress. I wanted to remove the transmission to try another method for removing the basket. Came out pretty easy. As soon as I tipped the unit on its front a brown slurry began to dribble out at the agitator shaft.
The transmission is doused in oil and filth. I bet its the worst some here will see in a long time...
What a mess lol. This units pretty beat.
See pics.
Agitator shaft is pooched. I expected that. deep groove in seal area. Worn shaft in bearing area. There is also around 3/8" of side to side "slop" in the agitator shaft. Normal? I'm assuming the bearings in the tubes deal with the lateral load.
Also check out the pump. looks like a newer aftermarket unit. Look how the covers popping off.. unit somehow held water for over 20hrs with no leaks.
Everything under here is drenched in oil.
Update on basket removal shortly. Thanks for reading about my adventures with this clunker. We are only just getting started.
An update on progress. I wanted to remove the transmission to try another method for removing the basket. Came out pretty easy. As soon as I tipped the unit on its front a brown slurry began to dribble out at the agitator shaft.
The transmission is doused in oil and filth. I bet its the worst some here will see in a long time...
What a mess lol. This units pretty beat.
See pics.
Agitator shaft is pooched. I expected that. deep groove in seal area. Worn shaft in bearing area. There is also around 3/8" of side to side "slop" in the agitator shaft. Normal? I'm assuming the bearings in the tubes deal with the lateral load.
Also check out the pump. looks like a newer aftermarket unit. Look how the covers popping off.. unit somehow held water for over 20hrs with no leaks.
Everything under here is drenched in oil.
Update on basket removal shortly. Thanks for reading about my adventures with this clunker. We are only just getting started.
repairguy
Well-known member
It’s going to be running like new before you know it. There was definitely water in the gearcase. It’s not the worst one I’ve seen. The belt is original with a date of 4/86.
vegabass25
Active member
Basket removal success!
Got the basket off.
My method was to first remove the transmission per my previous post.
I then spun the nut back on the drive block loose, perched a short piece of 2X4 atop it, and while lifting the wash basket off the bottom of the tub- gave it a good whack with a 3lb hammer. That popped it loose.
What's underneath is not great... Although very little rust on any parts of the tub, The center post is not too happy. Chunks of scale came off just with a scraper and what I'm left with can be seen in the pics.
Bottom of basket has a bit of rust too, but not too bad.
Would anyone here consider this center post salvageable? Or am I rebuilding this base plate too. It didnt break apart with me bouncing around in the basket for a half hour trying to remove it hah
Original belt eh? thats cool! It's still quite flexible and not in too bad of shape.
Cheers everyone. thanks for reading!
Got the basket off.
My method was to first remove the transmission per my previous post.
I then spun the nut back on the drive block loose, perched a short piece of 2X4 atop it, and while lifting the wash basket off the bottom of the tub- gave it a good whack with a 3lb hammer. That popped it loose.
What's underneath is not great... Although very little rust on any parts of the tub, The center post is not too happy. Chunks of scale came off just with a scraper and what I'm left with can be seen in the pics.
Bottom of basket has a bit of rust too, but not too bad.
Would anyone here consider this center post salvageable? Or am I rebuilding this base plate too. It didnt break apart with me bouncing around in the basket for a half hour trying to remove it hah
Original belt eh? thats cool! It's still quite flexible and not in too bad of shape.
Cheers everyone. thanks for reading!
repairguy
Well-known member
The center post definitely looks rough. That is one of the reasons these machines get scrapped these days. You’ll have to remove the rust from it to see what’s left as to whether it can be repaired or will need to be replaced.
Commercial belt drive washer rebuild
Yay glad you got it apart, I’ve never had standing in the basket not work in 30 seconds you simply shift your entire weight from one side to the other about once or twice and it comes loose and I only weigh 150 pounds.
I would clean up the rusty center post unless it’s nearly rusted through I like to get a thin stainless steel sleeve and sleeve the outside of it. It’s much easier than replacing the center post and then you don’t have any risk of having a misaligned center post if it’s off just slightly from the base plate the machine won’t spin properly other people have done this, and had problems with misalignment.
That blue water pump is an aftermarket pump that was made in Israel. They were junk. I would look for a real pump. We bought some of those and they didn’t last worth a damn.
You definitely need a new agitator shaft. The transmission may be damaged as well. I normally throw out ones that have water in them because I have so many that never had water in them and start with a better one, it appears all three transmission braces are missing and that really causes problems, it’ll cause the machine to walk and vibrate more and put a lot of stress on the center post and bearings, etc. to be run without the transmission braces.
John
Yay glad you got it apart, I’ve never had standing in the basket not work in 30 seconds you simply shift your entire weight from one side to the other about once or twice and it comes loose and I only weigh 150 pounds.
I would clean up the rusty center post unless it’s nearly rusted through I like to get a thin stainless steel sleeve and sleeve the outside of it. It’s much easier than replacing the center post and then you don’t have any risk of having a misaligned center post if it’s off just slightly from the base plate the machine won’t spin properly other people have done this, and had problems with misalignment.
That blue water pump is an aftermarket pump that was made in Israel. They were junk. I would look for a real pump. We bought some of those and they didn’t last worth a damn.
You definitely need a new agitator shaft. The transmission may be damaged as well. I normally throw out ones that have water in them because I have so many that never had water in them and start with a better one, it appears all three transmission braces are missing and that really causes problems, it’ll cause the machine to walk and vibrate more and put a lot of stress on the center post and bearings, etc. to be run without the transmission braces.
John
Totally Enjoying
following this thread/journey! Where in Ontario are you?
Guy
following this thread/journey! Where in Ontario are you?
Guy
vegabass25
Active member
Melvin And John-
In the next day or two I plan to get all the rust off that post and see what I have to work with.
I assume that either way to do this properly, I will need to remove the outer tub. So that will be my next move.
I really like the idea of a stainless sleeve. Tried to find some posts about that but turned up nothing yet. More research needed. I want these repairs to last!
About the transmission, I need to crack that open and make sure its salvageable. Was likely ran a long time wet. Dropping in another transmission is out of the question sadly, as BD machines just dont seem to exist around here any longer. Even If one did pop up on ebay, It would end up being over $300 to my door because I'm Canadian. Agitator shafts gonna cost me around $200 alone from what I can tell.
But like I said, It was running just fine, and actually sounded really nice when agitating. Hopefully the shaft is the only damaged part.
I think a full disassembly, cleaning, replacement of seals, agitator shaft and spring and new gear oil will keep this transmission happy. Might be high hopes though.
The agitator shaft has alot of side to side play as it sits protruding from the transmission. fingers crossed thats normal and not caused by wear in the transmission case/bearings.
I will not be running this machine again until I find some of those braces (among the many other issues lol). Boggles my mind someone was probably paid to fix this thing and decided they where not needed. Sadly, seems pretty normal for the quality of work done in my city.
The pump has a "B" and a checkmark on it. and looks newer than the rest of the components under there. Still spins silky smooth too. Hoping to someday procure an OEM one but will make this work if I have to, or keep it as a spare. Around what years where these blue aftermarket pumps common?
Guy-
I am located in North Bay, ON a couple hrs drive from you it sounds like. Glad you are enjoying this journey! Although the parts list is piling up, This machine will live again!
I will say, that corrosion on the center post makes me wonder how my 1989 direct drive machine is holding up in that area... I'm lucky enough to still have one of my childhood washers and its used every few days. but thats a topic for another day.
Thanks all! trans will be popped open tomorrow afternoon after I pull the wigwag off so I can pressure wash it first! lol. More pics will follow.
In the next day or two I plan to get all the rust off that post and see what I have to work with.
I assume that either way to do this properly, I will need to remove the outer tub. So that will be my next move.
I really like the idea of a stainless sleeve. Tried to find some posts about that but turned up nothing yet. More research needed. I want these repairs to last!
About the transmission, I need to crack that open and make sure its salvageable. Was likely ran a long time wet. Dropping in another transmission is out of the question sadly, as BD machines just dont seem to exist around here any longer. Even If one did pop up on ebay, It would end up being over $300 to my door because I'm Canadian. Agitator shafts gonna cost me around $200 alone from what I can tell.
But like I said, It was running just fine, and actually sounded really nice when agitating. Hopefully the shaft is the only damaged part.
I think a full disassembly, cleaning, replacement of seals, agitator shaft and spring and new gear oil will keep this transmission happy. Might be high hopes though.
The agitator shaft has alot of side to side play as it sits protruding from the transmission. fingers crossed thats normal and not caused by wear in the transmission case/bearings.
I will not be running this machine again until I find some of those braces (among the many other issues lol). Boggles my mind someone was probably paid to fix this thing and decided they where not needed. Sadly, seems pretty normal for the quality of work done in my city.
The pump has a "B" and a checkmark on it. and looks newer than the rest of the components under there. Still spins silky smooth too. Hoping to someday procure an OEM one but will make this work if I have to, or keep it as a spare. Around what years where these blue aftermarket pumps common?
Guy-
I am located in North Bay, ON a couple hrs drive from you it sounds like. Glad you are enjoying this journey! Although the parts list is piling up, This machine will live again!
I will say, that corrosion on the center post makes me wonder how my 1989 direct drive machine is holding up in that area... I'm lucky enough to still have one of my childhood washers and its used every few days. but thats a topic for another day.
Thanks all! trans will be popped open tomorrow afternoon after I pull the wigwag off so I can pressure wash it first! lol. More pics will follow.
Commercial whirlpool belt drive rebuild
It’s normal to have a lot of side to side play in the agitator shaft when the transmission is out of the washer.
It’s too bad. You’re not closer we still recycle belt drive machines that have good transmissions, and there are more new agitator shafts here in the states than will ever be used.
We have saved a lot of transmissions out of machines we junked, As long as they were made after 1964 when they beefed up the gears, etc., and they didn’t have water in them. You never really see a serious problem with them.
The blue aftermarket pumps showed up around the time Whirlpool stopped making them maybe 15 years ago, I wouldn’t worry about it just get a genuine one to have on hand at some point the pump may work fine till then, a water pump is not gonna bring the machine down.
John
It’s normal to have a lot of side to side play in the agitator shaft when the transmission is out of the washer.
It’s too bad. You’re not closer we still recycle belt drive machines that have good transmissions, and there are more new agitator shafts here in the states than will ever be used.
We have saved a lot of transmissions out of machines we junked, As long as they were made after 1964 when they beefed up the gears, etc., and they didn’t have water in them. You never really see a serious problem with them.
The blue aftermarket pumps showed up around the time Whirlpool stopped making them maybe 15 years ago, I wouldn’t worry about it just get a genuine one to have on hand at some point the pump may work fine till then, a water pump is not gonna bring the machine down.
John
vegabass25
Active member
John-
I would consider buying an agitator shaft off you if you have any spares and the time. As well as those transmission braces. Even a used shaft or one from an older unit with the taller spin tube in okay condition. Seems parts are more plentiful in the States even though this design ran for a few extra years in Canada.
eBays about my only option for most of these parts, But the shipping became unaffordable and poor when they discontinued the original Global Shipping Program. No local place is really willing to help me out. It's next to impossible to talk to an "old timer" who knows these machines locally. All I can really get locally for parts is 285134 bearing/seal kit and the agitator stud/seal. I found the OEM FSP spin tube (short) for around $65cdn, as well as the OEM FSP pump for around $40 online. Still tracking down P/Ns for transmission seals.
Here are a few more pics with the drive block removed. It appears to be in good enough shape to re-use after a good cleaning. You can get a better look at the center post now.
Also just removed the wigwag solenoid so I can get the oil and filth off the transmission.
Currently working on removing the spin tube and drive components. Bit of play in those bearings which is to be expected.
More updates tomorrow!
I would consider buying an agitator shaft off you if you have any spares and the time. As well as those transmission braces. Even a used shaft or one from an older unit with the taller spin tube in okay condition. Seems parts are more plentiful in the States even though this design ran for a few extra years in Canada.
eBays about my only option for most of these parts, But the shipping became unaffordable and poor when they discontinued the original Global Shipping Program. No local place is really willing to help me out. It's next to impossible to talk to an "old timer" who knows these machines locally. All I can really get locally for parts is 285134 bearing/seal kit and the agitator stud/seal. I found the OEM FSP spin tube (short) for around $65cdn, as well as the OEM FSP pump for around $40 online. Still tracking down P/Ns for transmission seals.
Here are a few more pics with the drive block removed. It appears to be in good enough shape to re-use after a good cleaning. You can get a better look at the center post now.
Also just removed the wigwag solenoid so I can get the oil and filth off the transmission.
Currently working on removing the spin tube and drive components. Bit of play in those bearings which is to be expected.
More updates tomorrow!
Hi Landon, I tried to send you an email as to how to get in touch with me to get the part you need but it got bounced back. Don’t know if it’s a problem with your email or not. You may want to try. Emailing me with contact information if you like
My email is combo [email protected]
My email is combo [email protected]
vegabass25
Active member
John- I'll email you shortly. Much appreciated. I just finished opening up and spraying down the transmission to see what I have to work with. Water has been in here awhile, But all the bearing surfaces seem smooth and gears and shift fork are in good shape. It's a little rough but I'm hoping its usable..
Alot of work to clean this up. I can see why they get tossed if they have water in them lol whole shop smells like gear oil and brake cleaner.
Tomorrow the outer tub comes out (carefully)
Thanks. pics below
Alot of work to clean this up. I can see why they get tossed if they have water in them lol whole shop smells like gear oil and brake cleaner.
Tomorrow the outer tub comes out (carefully)
Thanks. pics below
vegabass25
Active member
Not looking good...
came across two or three more problems...
Obviously this machines been leaking from pretty much everywhere
rust near tub drain compromised the seal
Lots of rust on the center post hole in tub
Cracks at one of the tub bolts.
I'll be honest, I don't have much hope left for this machine...
Thats all for today. Cheers.
came across two or three more problems...
Obviously this machines been leaking from pretty much everywhere
rust near tub drain compromised the seal
Lots of rust on the center post hole in tub
Cracks at one of the tub bolts.
I'll be honest, I don't have much hope left for this machine...
Thats all for today. Cheers.
vegabass25
Active member
Removed base plate today to properly clean up all rust and corrosion. Heres a before shot after removing just the heavy scale and rust. After some wire wheeling and prep, It will be ready for a sleeve over the center post. The assembly will then be re painted.
The drain seal/pin trap assembly is the next P/N I'm tracking down.
Transmission cleaned up nice and should be re usable once re assembled. Pics soon once dry and I determine how I will re-seal the case.
My plan is to remove bearings and seals from center post AFTER re-enforcing it with the sleeve. The sleeve will be a piece of dock post, which will fit snugly over the center post, without interfering with basket spin. All my measurements check out so far, so long as the tub seal can handle it. It has pretty thin walls while still being strong, and is made of galvalume. Not as durable as stainless, But I think it will do the trick.
Thanks for reading. cheers!
The drain seal/pin trap assembly is the next P/N I'm tracking down.
Transmission cleaned up nice and should be re usable once re assembled. Pics soon once dry and I determine how I will re-seal the case.
My plan is to remove bearings and seals from center post AFTER re-enforcing it with the sleeve. The sleeve will be a piece of dock post, which will fit snugly over the center post, without interfering with basket spin. All my measurements check out so far, so long as the tub seal can handle it. It has pretty thin walls while still being strong, and is made of galvalume. Not as durable as stainless, But I think it will do the trick.
Thanks for reading. cheers!
It’s coming back together
I think you’ll get this machine back in perfect operating order, email me a list of parts you need and we’ll figure out how to send them too bad it’s so hard to send large parts. I have extra base plates for these Machines.
I’ve not tried using RTV sealant for a gasket on a belt drive Transmission, but I don’t think it should be any problem to do so. Often we were able to use the old gasket again, except in cases where the transmission really needed a total cleaning as yours did.
Galvanized tubing should work well for the center post when we use stainless steel we tack welded it top and bottom, but I don’t see any reason you couldn’t use a really good epoxy glue or marine sealant. Just glue it in place.
When I used stainless steel thin wall tubing, I was able to get the rubber center gasket from the outer tub over it however, you can actually assemble these machines without using that gasket at all if you just use a lot of marine sealant between the rusted tub and the center post. or you can modify the fit of a new rubber center post seal if you need to and want to.
John
I think you’ll get this machine back in perfect operating order, email me a list of parts you need and we’ll figure out how to send them too bad it’s so hard to send large parts. I have extra base plates for these Machines.
I’ve not tried using RTV sealant for a gasket on a belt drive Transmission, but I don’t think it should be any problem to do so. Often we were able to use the old gasket again, except in cases where the transmission really needed a total cleaning as yours did.
Galvanized tubing should work well for the center post when we use stainless steel we tack welded it top and bottom, but I don’t see any reason you couldn’t use a really good epoxy glue or marine sealant. Just glue it in place.
When I used stainless steel thin wall tubing, I was able to get the rubber center gasket from the outer tub over it however, you can actually assemble these machines without using that gasket at all if you just use a lot of marine sealant between the rusted tub and the center post. or you can modify the fit of a new rubber center post seal if you need to and want to.
John
vegabass25
Active member
John
I really appreciate all the assistance and encouragement! I will email you a list of parts needed tomorrow. I really look forward to this machine being all cleaned up and running as it should! Thanks again.
It really is too bad about the distance, I would have happily bought a "non-flooded/rusty" base plate and even transmission off you. Shipping would be hundreds.
I have some gear oil-safe RTV sealant, 3M 5200 marine sealant, and will purchase SAE90 marine gear oil. For the center post sleeve, I plan to use Loctite EA-3478, which is an industrial 2 part metal epoxy that is basically made for a task like this. Conveniently, I have more than enough leftover from a past project. Very strong, and will seal that post up well so no water gets between. It will essentially become one composite metal unit.
I'm still quite impressed with how the transmission cleaned up. The only damage is the washer on the input shaft is quite rusted and misshapen, and the clutch actuator has a flat spot on the roller (see pic) bearings/shafts have been cleaned with tube brushes, red scotchbrite, and solvents. They look great and have very little wear. A bit of pitting on input shaft/gear, But just missed bearing surface and points on contact. lucky! Gear and fork will look alot nicer once my replacement wire brush wheel arrives and I can get it fully cleaned up!
Still making progress, even with winter tire installs for myself and family taking alot of my time! lol
Cheers and thanks for reading! -Landon
I really appreciate all the assistance and encouragement! I will email you a list of parts needed tomorrow. I really look forward to this machine being all cleaned up and running as it should! Thanks again.
It really is too bad about the distance, I would have happily bought a "non-flooded/rusty" base plate and even transmission off you. Shipping would be hundreds.
I have some gear oil-safe RTV sealant, 3M 5200 marine sealant, and will purchase SAE90 marine gear oil. For the center post sleeve, I plan to use Loctite EA-3478, which is an industrial 2 part metal epoxy that is basically made for a task like this. Conveniently, I have more than enough leftover from a past project. Very strong, and will seal that post up well so no water gets between. It will essentially become one composite metal unit.
I'm still quite impressed with how the transmission cleaned up. The only damage is the washer on the input shaft is quite rusted and misshapen, and the clutch actuator has a flat spot on the roller (see pic) bearings/shafts have been cleaned with tube brushes, red scotchbrite, and solvents. They look great and have very little wear. A bit of pitting on input shaft/gear, But just missed bearing surface and points on contact. lucky! Gear and fork will look alot nicer once my replacement wire brush wheel arrives and I can get it fully cleaned up!
Still making progress, even with winter tire installs for myself and family taking alot of my time! lol
Cheers and thanks for reading! -Landon
vegabass25
Active member
Rust is gone!
Progress is being made!
All rust has been removed from base plate, and of course the center post. Those heavy "scotch brite" style angle grinder disks really cut though the rust and deposits! Tricky spots where done with a small wire wheel on die grinder. Rust remover jelly was then applied to the center post and rough spots near the tub drain hole. The old bearings and seals where also pressed out of the center post, and the inside cleaned, and gone over with an old cylinder hone. The bottom side of the plate was rust free, So I scuffed the paint up nicely with scotch brite, and washed the whole thing thoroughly. Some pics below.
I cut a couple repair sleeves from the galvanized tubing. One spare just in case. The sleeve was thoroughly deburred, cleaned, and the inside will be scuffed up, as well as the center post, to help ensure a good steel epoxy bond. Once the new sleeve is pressed on, the base plate will be repainted.
Pics below of all the cleaned transmission parts. They survived the water quite well. No major wear or damage in any of the places that matter. That sludge was a nightmare to remove. RIP to my brake cleaner and rag stashes.
John- The parts help, and excellent tips on strengthening the tub mounting is much appreciated! as well as good conversation. Was nice to talk appliances with someone. Cheers.
I can really see this unit being quite decent now that I'm not looking at that rust! Heres hoping the next pics I post are of a nicely repainted, sturdy base plate in a couple days.
Thanks for reading
Progress is being made!
All rust has been removed from base plate, and of course the center post. Those heavy "scotch brite" style angle grinder disks really cut though the rust and deposits! Tricky spots where done with a small wire wheel on die grinder. Rust remover jelly was then applied to the center post and rough spots near the tub drain hole. The old bearings and seals where also pressed out of the center post, and the inside cleaned, and gone over with an old cylinder hone. The bottom side of the plate was rust free, So I scuffed the paint up nicely with scotch brite, and washed the whole thing thoroughly. Some pics below.
I cut a couple repair sleeves from the galvanized tubing. One spare just in case. The sleeve was thoroughly deburred, cleaned, and the inside will be scuffed up, as well as the center post, to help ensure a good steel epoxy bond. Once the new sleeve is pressed on, the base plate will be repainted.
Pics below of all the cleaned transmission parts. They survived the water quite well. No major wear or damage in any of the places that matter. That sludge was a nightmare to remove. RIP to my brake cleaner and rag stashes.
John- The parts help, and excellent tips on strengthening the tub mounting is much appreciated! as well as good conversation. Was nice to talk appliances with someone. Cheers.
I can really see this unit being quite decent now that I'm not looking at that rust! Heres hoping the next pics I post are of a nicely repainted, sturdy base plate in a couple days.
Thanks for reading
I hope you took a picture of the intact transmission
All those small parts, remember how they went together.
All those small parts, remember how they went together.
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