Inglis TO-41001 Commercial Belt Drive Rebuild -A few questions-

[combo52]

Commercial whirlpool belt drive rebuild

It’s normal to have a lot of side to side play in the agitator shaft when the transmission is out of the washer.

It’s too bad. You’re not closer we still recycle belt drive machines that have good transmissions, and there are more new agitator shafts here in the states than will ever be used.

We have saved a lot of transmissions out of machines we junked, As long as they were made after 1964 when they beefed up the gears, etc., and they didn’t have water in them. You never really see a serious problem with them.

The blue aftermarket pumps showed up around the time Whirlpool stopped making them maybe 15 years ago, I wouldn’t worry about it just get a genuine one to have on hand at some point the pump may work fine till then, a water pump is not gonna bring the machine down.

John

 

[vegabass25]

John-
I would consider buying an agitator shaft off you if you have any spares and the time. As well as those transmission braces. Even a used shaft or one from an older unit with the taller spin tube in okay condition. Seems parts are more plentiful in the States even though this design ran for a few extra years in Canada.
eBays about my only option for most of these parts, But the shipping became unaffordable and poor when they discontinued the original Global Shipping Program. No local place is really willing to help me out. It's next to impossible to talk to an "old timer" who knows these machines locally. All I can really get locally for parts is 285134 bearing/seal kit and the agitator stud/seal. I found the OEM FSP spin tube (short) for around $65cdn, as well as the OEM FSP pump for around $40 online. Still tracking down P/Ns for transmission seals.

Here are a few more pics with the drive block removed. It appears to be in good enough shape to re-use after a good cleaning. You can get a better look at the center post now.

Also just removed the wigwag solenoid so I can get the oil and filth off the transmission.

Currently working on removing the spin tube and drive components. Bit of play in those bearings which is to be expected.

More updates tomorrow!

 

[combo52]

Hi Landon, I tried to send you an email as to how to get in touch with me to get the part you need but it got bounced back. Don’t know if it’s a problem with your email or not. You may want to try. Emailing me with contact information if you like

My email is combo [email protected]

 

[vegabass25]

John- I'll email you shortly. Much appreciated. I just finished opening up and spraying down the transmission to see what I have to work with. Water has been in here awhile, But all the bearing surfaces seem smooth and gears and shift fork are in good shape. It's a little rough but I'm hoping its usable..

Alot of work to clean this up. I can see why they get tossed if they have water in them lol whole shop smells like gear oil and brake cleaner.

Tomorrow the outer tub comes out (carefully)

Thanks. pics below

 

[vegabass25]

Not looking good...

came across two or three more problems...

Obviously this machines been leaking from pretty much everywhere
rust near tub drain compromised the seal
Lots of rust on the center post hole in tub
Cracks at one of the tub bolts.

I'll be honest, I don't have much hope left for this machine...

Thats all for today. Cheers.

 

[vegabass25]

Removed base plate today to properly clean up all rust and corrosion. Heres a before shot after removing just the heavy scale and rust. After some wire wheeling and prep, It will be ready for a sleeve over the center post. The assembly will then be re painted.

The drain seal/pin trap assembly is the next P/N I'm tracking down.

Transmission cleaned up nice and should be re usable once re assembled. Pics soon once dry and I determine how I will re-seal the case.

My plan is to remove bearings and seals from center post AFTER re-enforcing it with the sleeve. The sleeve will be a piece of dock post, which will fit snugly over the center post, without interfering with basket spin. All my measurements check out so far, so long as the tub seal can handle it. It has pretty thin walls while still being strong, and is made of galvalume. Not as durable as stainless, But I think it will do the trick.

Thanks for reading. cheers!

 

[combo52]

It’s coming back together

I think you’ll get this machine back in perfect operating order, email me a list of parts you need and we’ll figure out how to send them too bad it’s so hard to send large parts. I have extra base plates for these Machines.

I’ve not tried using RTV sealant for a gasket on a belt drive Transmission, but I don’t think it should be any problem to do so. Often we were able to use the old gasket again, except in cases where the transmission really needed a total cleaning as yours did.

Galvanized tubing should work well for the center post when we use stainless steel we tack welded it top and bottom, but I don’t see any reason you couldn’t use a really good epoxy glue or marine sealant. Just glue it in place.

When I used stainless steel thin wall tubing, I was able to get the rubber center gasket from the outer tub over it however, you can actually assemble these machines without using that gasket at all if you just use a lot of marine sealant between the rusted tub and the center post. or you can modify the fit of a new rubber center post seal if you need to and want to.

John

 

[vegabass25]

John
I really appreciate all the assistance and encouragement! I will email you a list of parts needed tomorrow. I really look forward to this machine being all cleaned up and running as it should! Thanks again.

It really is too bad about the distance, I would have happily bought a "non-flooded/rusty" base plate and even transmission off you. Shipping would be hundreds.

I have some gear oil-safe RTV sealant, 3M 5200 marine sealant, and will purchase SAE90 marine gear oil. For the center post sleeve, I plan to use Loctite EA-3478, which is an industrial 2 part metal epoxy that is basically made for a task like this. Conveniently, I have more than enough leftover from a past project. Very strong, and will seal that post up well so no water gets between. It will essentially become one composite metal unit.

I'm still quite impressed with how the transmission cleaned up. The only damage is the washer on the input shaft is quite rusted and misshapen, and the clutch actuator has a flat spot on the roller (see pic) bearings/shafts have been cleaned with tube brushes, red scotchbrite, and solvents. They look great and have very little wear. A bit of pitting on input shaft/gear, But just missed bearing surface and points on contact. lucky! Gear and fork will look alot nicer once my replacement wire brush wheel arrives and I can get it fully cleaned up!

Still making progress, even with winter tire installs for myself and family taking alot of my time! lol

Cheers and thanks for reading! -Landon

 

[vegabass25]

Rust is gone!

Progress is being made!
All rust has been removed from base plate, and of course the center post. Those heavy "scotch brite" style angle grinder disks really cut though the rust and deposits! Tricky spots where done with a small wire wheel on die grinder. Rust remover jelly was then applied to the center post and rough spots near the tub drain hole. The old bearings and seals where also pressed out of the center post, and the inside cleaned, and gone over with an old cylinder hone. The bottom side of the plate was rust free, So I scuffed the paint up nicely with scotch brite, and washed the whole thing thoroughly. Some pics below.

I cut a couple repair sleeves from the galvanized tubing. One spare just in case. The sleeve was thoroughly deburred, cleaned, and the inside will be scuffed up, as well as the center post, to help ensure a good steel epoxy bond. Once the new sleeve is pressed on, the base plate will be repainted.

Pics below of all the cleaned transmission parts. They survived the water quite well. No major wear or damage in any of the places that matter. That sludge was a nightmare to remove. RIP to my brake cleaner and rag stashes.

John- The parts help, and excellent tips on strengthening the tub mounting is much appreciated! as well as good conversation. Was nice to talk appliances with someone. Cheers.

I can really see this unit being quite decent now that I'm not looking at that rust! Heres hoping the next pics I post are of a nicely repainted, sturdy base plate in a couple days.

Thanks for reading

 

[neptunebob]

I hope you took a picture of the intact transmission

All those small parts, remember how they went together.

 

[vegabass25]

Bob-
Got a few pictures during disassembly in case of any oddities or confusion lol.
But I made sure I had a parts breakdown in hand before disassembly. Its not too much worse than a DD transmission, and much less tedious than the vintage clock/timer motors I routinely find myself working on.

Besides the controls and cabinet braces, this machine is as apart as it gets. Its been alot of fun so far!

The sleeve is fully prepped for install. One more round of rust jelly is on in a few tiny missed spots near the top of the center post. Sleeve will be installed tomorrow!

Thanks

 

[combo52]

That base plate is looking great

Hi Landon, your efforts so far approved that you can restore almost anything that one puts their minds to. Take some close-up pictures if you can of how that face plate center post is restored. I think you're onto a really great way of doing this more easily than welding the material around the base plate that we did.

It was a pleasure talking to you the other day. It's always fun to interact with somebody with such great abilities, hopefully this weekend we will get a chance to put together a box of parts for this project to ship to you once you get the pieces you need this project won't take very long.

I'm hoping this weekend to try to sort out the area where all the belt drive whirlpool laundry parts have been piled, my young friends Chris and Tate are going to be here this weekend and they can help organize and sort the parts.

There are still nearly a dozen belt drive whirlpool washers around here that I need to get rebuilt both for myself and a few others.

John

 

[vegabass25]

Refurbished base plate!

Made great progress on the base plate since my last posts. All is going very well!

Yesterday I Fully finished prep and made sure there where no dirt or oils on the plate or post. I then mixed up some Loctite EA-3478 (about 55g worth of mixed product) and applied it liberally to both the center post and inside of sleeve. I then pressed the sleeve on. Sleeve is a perfect firm fit so this epoxy bond should hold up very well and be plenty strong. See pics.

Today, I Primed the whole assembly with an etching primer, and then painted it. I used black paint since I had a few cans of Krylon stuff I really like, that has proven itself very durable. Pics below. I'm quite happy with the finished product! One rust free base plate with reinforced and protected center post. Once the new spin tube bearings and seals are installed, I will seal the two layers at the top of the post with 3m 5200 marine sealant. Just to make sure no water gets in any crevice and causes problems. I'm going to let the plates paint cure a few days before I do anything further. Nice to see this part finished and saved!

Hi John- I've always enjoyed bringing older, well made usually smaller appliances back to life. We used to make such nice things that just did their job. Always fun, and has saved me and family money many times as a bonus.
I appreciate the kindness. Repairing things has always brought me alot of satisfaction. Hope the sorting goes well. The efforts on locating these parts is very much appreciated! I located some 5/16" 1-1/2 OD stainless fender washers and some rubber gasket material to install the tub the way you suggested when the time comes. That tub is the next part to get properly cleaned, de rusted, and touched up.

Enjoy the pictures of my progress, and thanks for reading.

 

[vegabass25]

Tub Time

Yesterday and today, I've been working on cleaning and de-rusting the tub.

I started by washing it down with Spray Nine, and then carefully grinding the rust spots with my Dremel. I then applied rust jelly to the deeper pits and around center post seal and tub drain areas. No rust remains!

Haven't decided what to use to coat these spots. The marine sealant should be just fine to protect around bolts, drain and post areas when I seal those. The enamel on the bottom of the tub is also worn a bit thin. Perhaps I should coat the whole bottom with something, But I need to investigate something waterproof that sticks to this material well.

I also threw all the machines hardware and small parts in the ultrasonic cleaner. Came out nice and clean. No gear oil left on anything except the inside of the cabinet now, lol

I'll have some pics tonight of the progress with the tub. Cheers everyone!

 

[vegabass25]

Here are some pictures of the outer tub after I removed all the rust. A few cracks around center hole, and of course the one bolt hole has one thats over an inch long. There are two small spots that are rusted though as well. One is at the tub drain. See pics. I may try painting the bottom portion of the tub with that bathtub enamel paint. Still thinking on that. I'm confident I can make this tub work and last.

I also cleaned up the inner basket and began de-rusting the inside of its post. Its in very good condition overall for the amount of use on this machine.

Thanks for reading. Tomorrow I'm going to clean up the motor and give it some oil. I Need a break from rust removal related tasks lol. -Landon

 

[repairguy]

You’re doing an excellent job! When you get finished this machine will be ready for another 40 years of dependable service.

 

[gizmo]

Beautiful work. Thanks for showing, and thanks to all who are helping you.

 

[114jwh]

Great job so far Landon and thank you for sharing the updates. I'm confident you'll have this up and running like a new machine.

As for bathtub paint - no experience with that myself but I'm not sure I would use it. I know when you use that stuff on a bathtub you can only clean it with mild detergent subsequently. I've never seen examples of people being happy with the results of painted bathtubs in the longer term so not sure I would risk it.

Many on the site including myself have had good success with POR15 however yours isn't actually rusty for the most part so it may not stick as well. Maybe just fill the holes and touch up just the areas you've sanded. The rest of the tub looks really good. You can get the tub repair kit for the mounting holes that includes oversized washers to seal a greater area.

 

[vegabass25]

Melvin, Chris, and James-

Thanks for your kind words on the progress so far! Alot of work, but going smoothly Lots of great people on this forum who have been quite helpful! I'm glad people are enjoying the updates and adventures in rebuilding this machine.

James- I think you are correct- I'll just touch up the spots that need it with a sealant I trust. No finish is as good as the original. Quite a few little rust pecks but I can cover them with precision. I dont want the possible problems that can occur if pieces of paint or sealant come off or get loose and trap dirt and water making things worse.

Update on progress- Currently cleaning up the sediment trap, air dome, and tub drain seal. All these parts seem in great shape to re use. Going to take pully and brackets off motor and start cleaning those parts and motor today.

Thanks for reading- Have a good day everyone!

 

[vegabass25]

Motor and other parts cleaned

The past few days I've been slowly working on cleaning up and lubricating the motor. It had alot of dust, lint, Belt residue and grease inside. It also had a good coating of gear oil residue all over it. I brushed and blasted in some electric motor cleaner and compressed air. I then knocked off the little end caps on each end of the motor and added a good dose of SAE30 oil to the oil wicks. Runs quiet and spins much more freely in test. Seems to be in good condition!

I also cleaned up the brackets and pully, as well as the air dome and trap assembly.

Next up is finishing the cleanup and touchup of the inner basket center post.

Thanks -Landon

 

[combo52]

It's looking really good

This machine will be in close to new operating condition when you're done.

I rounded up most of the parts you need yesterday new agitator shaft spin tube transmission gasket. Don't remember what else at the moment.

Will try to get the stuff boxed up over this holiday weekend, we've been really busy at work always gets extremely busy around the holidays ovens and dishwashers seem to miraculously break right before Thanksgiving, lol

John

 

[vegabass25]

Happy Thanksgiving

John-
Very much appreciated! Glad you found a transmission gasket as well. Really didn't want to have to use RTV sealant. You have saved me alot of difficulty rounding up all these parts. I'm really looking forward to when it's time to start re-assembling some things, and am quite happy with the progress so far!

lol I can imagine appliance repair really takes off leading into any holiday! I sell a ton of oven bake elements at the hardware store in days leading up to any major holiday. Enough of a trend that I triple inventory of most common oven parts.

Hope alls well, and Happy Thanksgiving!
-Landon

 

[vegabass25]

Looks like I have everything I need

Hello all, and happy holidays. Hope everyone had a good Christmas!

I received all the parts I need from John on Christmas eve which is excellent! Procuring all these parts without him would have been sooo many separate orders and headaches/cost, so I am extremely thankful for the help!

John- I noticed you had included a large oilite bearing in the package, which at first I thought was a spare center post bearing. I now see it appears to be a new bearing for the spin pully. Thanks for that! The clutch actuator is also correct. Seems to even be an improved adjustable version (see pics)

Currently rebuilding the basket drive assembly. I've got it fully disassembled and have begun the cleanup. The parts are in good condition. good amount of material left on the three slides on the spin clutch.

There is a felt oil wick that sits on top of the pully. Am I correct to assume it provides a very slight oiling to the three pad spin clutch? Does not seem like it would be supplying oil to the spin tube/bearing if it just sits on the pully. Pretty cool design if so. Usually oil is to be kept away from things like this.

Should have the basket drive rebuilt by tomorrow, and then will move on to the transmissions reassembly. Cheers everyone!

-Landon

 

[combo52]

Yay glad you got all the parts

Hi Landon I threw in a clutch pulley bearing if it's not badly worn you don't really need to change it. You have to press it out of the pulley, if you press the bearing out of the pulley, you'll notice there's a groove behind the bearing cut into the cast-iron pulley, you put grease in that groove which can soak into the oil light bearing to keep that clutch pulley bearing lubricated.

That piece of felt that goes on top of the pulley was actually to try to keep oil from migrating out of the bearing and getting on the clutch pads. The clutch pads are supposed to run dry and if they get too oily, they would slip, if that felt pad seems too oily. You might try to de-oil it or grease it a little bit,

Will all be excited to see you get the machine running happy New Year's. Keep us posted.

John L

 

[vegabass25]

We have a basket drive

Hey all! Happy new year!

Basket drive was rebuilt without any hiccups. Everything was thoroughly cleaned and degreased with brake cleaner while I had it apart. I had to replace the thrust washers between the pully as the old ones fell apart in my hands. I used blue loctite on the set screw as well after compressing the clutch assembly with a quick grip clamp to line it up with the hole easily.

John- About that "oil wick" on the pully -It absorbing excess oil from the bearing makes much more sense. I made sure to clean it thoroughly so it's dry and good to absorb more oil as the machine gets used. It was soaked in oil before I cleaned it.

I also did end up pressing out and replacing the bearing. That went very well. There was a radial groove in the pully behind bearing as you said. It was packed with permawick, so I let it absorb a good bit of SAE30 oil before reassembly. The original bearing was fine, But I wanted to get it out either way so I could properly clean it and soak it in oil. I'll keep it as a spare as I hope this will not be the last belt drive machine I work on!

More updates coming soon as I begin the transmissions reassembly!

-Landon

 

[vegabass25]

We have transmission!

Hey all!

Excited to say the transmission has been rebuilt! Was alot of fun bringing this assembly back to life considering what I started with. So much cleanup and prep to get to this point. Well worth it.

It has a new agitator shaft, New OEM gasket, replaced clutch actuator, and 16oz of new oil (Castrol SAE 80W-90 with the LS additive) I also noticed one of the shafts on the pitman arm was ever so slightly loose so I gave it a good squeeze in the press to tighten its "riveted" type fastening. AND I didn't forget to install the ball and plate under the agitator shaft lol

The wig wag plungers, cam bars and rollers have been lightly lubed with Super Lube.The cam bars where also filed carefully where there was slight wear to get rid of any rough or catchy spots. In a hand-run bench test everything turns and shifts very smoothly. I engaged the magnets with my test cord to ensure proper operation in all modes. Even got to hear that lovely buzzing sound the solenoids sometimes make. I haven't heard that sound in over 20 years. I'm happy with the results.

Now to mate the transmission with the basket drive with belt and make sure everythings adjusted correctly so the entire drive assembly is ready to be installed when the time comes. Will use turbine oil/SAE30 non detergent as recommended in service manual for the bearings.

I have Red n' Tacky and Super Lube greases on hand. Should I pick up some Rykon grease for the plastic T bearing and bottom oil seal? or will one of my two greases suffice? I know the Rykon deals with moisture best but If water gets to these parts there is already a bigger issue anyway lol

Cheers everyone! Next up is installing bearings and seals in center post, and cleaning up the agitator inside so I can make sure its a tight fit on the new shaft. It was a little wobbly on the old one and I'm hoping that's just due to the wear and rust.

Thanks
-Landon

 

[combo52]

Whirlpool belt drive washer, mechanical restoration

Looking good you're well on your way to a sturdy great functioning washing machine.

The grease you have is fine for the T bearing, it's obviously not a very critical part and I've never seen a lubrication failure on a T bearing less water has been going through the Bearings. The T bearing is really a spacer and a support to support the basket drive assembly.that allows the shafts to turn independently, but there's not a lot of movement against it, which is why they found they could make it out of plastic and it never failed.

Hi Landon looks like a good winter project. I've been hanging out in the basement. Rebuilding a 1968 versa Tronic GE range. I will post pictures soon. It's nearly done.

John

 

[jetcone]

Landon

You have the touch ! When you love a machine it doesnt' matter how far it's gone, determination and desire will restore anything in time ! 

 

But I am glad  you have John for this project he's the expert on belt drives and He will get you through this.  They're his secret passion! 

 

I love the gun metal gray tub never seen that and the tranny has the 1950s pulley with spokes SO COOL !

 

[vegabass25]

Hello everyone!

Sorry to disappear on everyone following this.
Work on the machine had to be backburner'd due to some major plumbing repairs that required me to break up some concrete and replace a majority of the 70 year old cast iron drainlines under my house.

I do all my own work while working full time so it took me awhile. Thankfully the upstairs bathroom remained unaffected due to where it connects to the main, so I was able to take the time to do it all correctly. All thats left is deciding on a new bathroom floor and plopping my old reliable toilet back in place. easy stuff.

I plan to continue work on the washer in the next week or two. Everythings as I left it, and the weather is getting nicer, So I'll be able to clean, pressure wash and possibly paint it's cabinet as well!

John and Jon- Thanks so much! The pulley is quite unique based on that I've seen on other belt drives. Perhaps due to the narrow belt. I love the color of the tub as well. The machine has a few uniquenesses that I love.

I got a handful of NOS pumps for the machine from a retired appliance tech. Two are the shitty blue ones (which are in FSP boxes...) and one is a genuine beige FSP pump new in the bag. Good to have some spares and one good quality pump for the machine. I took the old busted up blue pump (that somehow didn't leak) apart just for fun. I'll post pics soon, kind of a neat, simple design.

Thanks for reading, I look forward to getting this unit back to life and continuing work as I was

-Landon

 

[repairguy]

I was just wondering what ever happened with this project. Glad to hear it is still in the works.