It begins... The Inglis restoration

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Got the inner tub out of the Inglis....

And the news ain't so good...

First, notice how the bottom of the tub is rough and the top edge is flaked off. Not a good sign.

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Back to the Inglis, the centre post was pretty bad, but I had a new dilemma...

Recall that the cabinets of the Inglis and the Whirlpool were not quite identical. I do have the matching dryer for the Inglis washer and by golly, I'll be getting that back into service too. So what's a dude to do??

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And while I had the POR-15 out, I figured it would also be a good idea to coat the 'new' tub from the donor Whirlpool. With any luck this washer should 'live' for another 40 or so years!

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Last operation for the day - de-gunk the Inglis transmission. It seems to be sound still, but I'll need a new spin tube. Let's see how well I do at finding one in Stanstead this week!!

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Wow Paul...

From what I can see, did you have to cut the spin tube or is that part of the brake drum upside down in the last pic?

Looks like a job well done so far. The donor parts are indeed in much better shape. How many coats of POR did you use?

Gordon
 
Gordon, it's part of the brake drum. The spin tube 'lip' just dropped right off as if it had been cut... That was just one coat of POR-15 on tub in these pictures. I want to get a second one on today!!
 
Replies 25 & 26

The post and the tub look like they went through the magic vortex of a black hole in outer space and came out the other end fully rejuvenated and nicely black. I love it. Hubby must be growing fearful of your galactic power and becoming ever more tolerant.

Glad you're keeping the lighted Inglis alive; it's so much more stellar, not to mention patriotic ;'D
 
The spin tube 'lip' just dropped right off as if it

Wow Paul, that's incredible!! Maybe people who dealt this these machines every day saw this, but I've never come across a machine that was wet for so long down there that it destroyed the lip on the spin tube. That is probably why the transmission below that area is so crudded up with black goop. They are seldom clean in that area, but that one is really greasy/wet looking.

This leads me to a question - is the original Inglis gearcase fouled with water or contaminated oil inside? It may well be. I'd be tempted to use the WP gearcase, OR open the Inglis trans and see what condition the oil is in. I had one a couple years ago that had chocolate milk colored "oil" in it that was the consistency of heavy molasses.

Good luck on the hunt for a spin tube!

Gordon
 
You know, I never actually saw the washer leak, but I have an awful feeling that the washer sat for some time with water in it. The reason this washer got de-commissioned was because the hot water solenoid was shot. I guess the former owner lived with this issue for a while, too.

Waiting for a call back from a parts place in Stanstead (the guy who wanted me to buy him out...) about the spin tube, tub seal, and a new drain hose. I'm in a bit of a race against time now - I was hoping to get this all done this week because I'll not be back down here in Ogden until late October!

More pictures of today's work coming soon...
 
the spin tube, tub seal, and a new drain hose

If you can't get these parts from your local parts guy you might get them from Reliable Parts. Not sure if they have a branch near you but if not they'll ship.

It looks like they have the spin tube 383921 and tub seal 383727 if these are the correct P/N's.
 
Inglis Rebuilding

WOW Paul it looks like you are doing a great job.

 

The transmission oil level and quality can be checked easily without taking the transmission apart by inserting a three" piece of coat hanger wire through the vent hole with the transmission sitting level. You may have to rotate the drive pulley to get the dip-stick to go all the way to the bottom of the gear case as it will hit the top of the connecting rod depending on its position. The oil should be about 1/2" deep in this area and should be a nice light color, if it is murky, brown or white it most likely has water in it. If it looks OK but is just real low you can add transmission oil to increase the level and new oil added helps rejuvenate the oil oil, do this by putting the oil to be added into an empty Zoom-Spout bottle and filling into the vent hole.

 

You should try to be sure that the transmission is one of the Heavy Duty ones, You can tell by looking at the bottom of the case.

 

On the spin tubes sometimes the bottom flange will separate and all the clutch and brake parts fall off from the bottom, if this happens it means you need a new ST, which you almost always need anyway during a rebuild.

 

One thing I like to do when repainting the center post is after installing the top spin tube seal is to paint any exposed metal at the top of the center post right up to the rubber seal, as this area can corrode and cause a serious failure of the whole job.

 

Good Luck and keep us posted on your progress, John.
 
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