It continues... The ongoing saga of the Inglis

[turquoisedude]

New Year, new projects, right?? Well, kinda...

This is a 'hangover' from a restoration I ambitiously undertook last fall - getting my 1966 Inglis back into shape. I've started a new thread because there were lots of photos taken as I ran into one obstacle after another and I was afraid they'd take too long to load. Here's a link to the original thread and a photo of the 67 Whirlpool donor transmission that I hope will keep this project from going south...

http://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?48434_121~1

 

[turquoisedude]

I am convinced that there is now something wrong with the jury-rigged Inglis transmission that I turned into a narrow-belt version.

I started by removing the drive block. The heat of the basement, assisted by the HIGH setting of a hair dryer softened it up and it popped right off!

 

[turquoisedude]

This is easy now... Having the right tool and having removed two tub nuts so far, I had no difficulty getting this removed.

 

[turquoisedude]

Now, here's where things get...interesting.

The transmission slid right out, which I expected. What I did not expect was for the basket drive to slide right out, separately!

 

[turquoisedude]

Now, compare that to the Whirlpool donor transmission. Note the basket drive is still pretty firmly attached to the transmission shaft. I can't for the life of me remember how it looked when I first pulled it from the 67....

 

[turquoisedude]

It gets better... Note the close up of the drive pulley and upper clutch plate. They are definitely not attached.

 

[turquoisedude]

I apologize for the poor close-up, but check the plate and pulley on the new narrow-belt basket drive I popped onto the Inglis transmission. It's very firmly attached from what I can see.

So here's my first 'wall' I've run into... Is the plate and pulley supposed to be so close? On the Whirlpool, I suspect that the basket drive shaft has pulled up on the transmission shaft. Can I just slide it back? If so, how much force can I safely use to slide it back down?

I've promised Hubby no more new projects until I get this one done, so I'm anxious to get this one completed!

 

[jetcone]

Even I know there should'nt be

that much of a gap between the pulley and the clutch shoe. The pulley outer rim is the clutch plate and I see on yours it has rust, it should be shiny if the spin is engaging. 

 

Did you download the whirlpool doctrine?? The break down of parts should help. I forget what activates the spin clutch when the wigwag calls for spin, anybody chime in here, is it the breaker bar sliding under the spin pulley that raises it up to the clutch??

 

Memory comes back, the basket drive is supposed to be attached to the tranny through a pin & spring on one end and the other end sits on that post coming up from the body of the tranny. The whole thing should have come out together.  By the way how are the spin bearings in this machine do I recall you changed them out?

 

And picture #5 looks like you are completely missing the wigwag and breaker bars, that would account for the megna-gap between the pulley and clutch shoe.

In Picture #6 I see the breaker bars under the pulley BUT the saddle of the clutch is not attached to the two posts, did you take it off the posts to take the picture or did it come out of the machine like that?

 

 

 

 

 

[turquoisedude]

Jon, you're confirming what I had not been 100% sure of. I've read and re-read the doctrine, but still wasn't quite visualizing it all!

In picture 5, the wig-wag and bars are there, but on the other side of the transmission case. What scared me and what you confirmed was that the gap between the pulley and plate are not a good thing. Methinks the donor WP transmission will need a complete rebuild!

In picture 6, the clutch saddle is not attached to the mounting posts - that was intentional so I could compare the gaps!

Just for the pure heck of it, I tried spinning the main drive pulley by hand and sliding the agitate or spin bars in and out to simulate the wash, neutral drain, and spin actions. I may have jumped to a false conclusion that the modified Inglis transmission is toast! What bugged me was why the machine didn't work that way when the tranny was actually in the washer... A discussion with John (combo52) brought up something that I should be rapped squarely across the knuckles with a ruler for not considering... The belt!!

It never even occurred to me that because I switched to a narrow-belt drive system that I was NOT using a new drive belt... I don't think that the motor could be that weak, but I do have a spare (or three) in case a new belt doesn't help. But it looks like I pulled the transmission for nothing, but oh well...

Would anyone happen to have the WP part number for this type of belt? Worst case scenario, I'll be in the city next week and I can try the parts place where they didn't point and laugh at me when I was looking for the Maytag air dome hose.

Stay tuned!!

 

[thefixer]

"I forget what activates the spin clutch when the wigwag calls for spin, anybody chime in here"

The spin cam bar is pulled towards back of washer allowing clutch shaft to drop, yoke drops which allows brake spring pressure to press clutch against pulley.

 

[revvinkevin]

<span style="font-family: times new roman,times;"> </span>

<span style="font-family: times new roman,times;"> </span>

<span style="font-family: times new roman,times;">Hi Paul and Happy New Year!</span>

<span style="font-family: times new roman,times;"> </span>

<span style="font-family: times new roman,times;">As for PN for the drive belts....</span>

<span style="font-family: times new roman,times;"> </span>

<span style="font-family: times new roman,times;">#95405 - regular "woo-woo" belt</span>

<span style="font-family: times new roman,times;"> </span>

<span style="font-family: times new roman,times;">#96386 - quiet pak belt</span>

<span style="font-family: times new roman,times;"> </span>

<span style="font-family: times new roman,times;">I hope this helps!</span>

<span style="font-family: times new roman,times;">Kevin</span>

<span style="font-family: times new roman,times;"> </span>

<span style="font-family: times new roman,times;"> </span>

 

[swestoyz]

Paul, it looks like the set screw for the brake collar is not engaged in the set hole on the spin tube. I don't think the actual transmission (minus the basket drive) from the '67 Whirlpool has issues but instead the brake package needs some attention.

As Jon mentioned, study the doctrine, especially the parts about the drive package. Also, I added photos of the rebuilding of the drive package on my '59 Restoration.

If I were in your shoes, I'd take the '67 Whirlpool's drive package apart, inspect the drive pulley bearing, and rebuild it using the new spin tube you have (using parts between the two, but making sure you use the standard belt drive pulley and clutch to convert the washer back to the standard size belt). If you have questions, let us know.

Ben

http://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?50185

 

[turquoisedude]

Stuck!

I've been trying to slide the basket drive and spin tube assembly off the 67 WP donor transmission, but, to quote Granny Clampett, "It ain't a budgin'"

I've tried tapping it gently with a hammer, but was afraid I'd mess something up.

Its sitting by the oil stove in the basement in Ogden - I thought that maybe there was some gummed up grease keeping it stuck. At this point, I'll try anything!!

Any suggestions??

 

[recyclewasher]

Set screw

Check the pointers raised by swestoyz in above post.
It's not gum holding it back and if you continue with the hammering without backing out the set screw it will distort the aluminum brake which has four areas where the aluminum is very thin (by the 4 small spring areas are about 1/16" thick) and then it will Break!
I didn't have any service manual with me when I dismantled mine and found the set screw the painfull way! I still have the broken pieces in a zip lock bag so when I have some free time to fab a jig to weld and machine it back to keep as a spare. The hole was hidden by grease gunk and I didn't know or see it before I resorted to the hammer.
My 0.02$

 

[jetcone]

Paul

I see gloss on your belt and also fraying, both "belt no-no's". Tsk tsk

 

 

[recyclewasher]

Inspection mirror

If you can insert a small inspection mirror between the yoke where the (4 small brake springs are- don't loose these either as they are colour coded for brake tension) and the aluminum round disc above it ( which holds the set screw) you should see where the set screw hole starts from the perimeter -looking up under its skirting) or use a paper clip and try to locate the set screw hole on the perimeter of the round aluminum disc- I forget what size Allan key I used to back it out

 

[turquoisedude]

Set screw is out

I removed the set screw, as described by Ben, before I started to try to remove the basket drive assembly. I am afraid that there's something very wrong here...

I've been given one last chance to get this washer and the various parts, bits, and pieces working again and off the basement floor or it will be sent to a new vocation as a Kia...

If you had to <bet the farm> on a solution here, what would it be: swap the transmissions or replace the belt?

 

[recyclewasher]

Ok I went and found the old zip lock bag of parts and

Looking to see if there were 2 set screws? Nope but you need to get the parts diagram to find out where the circular retaining ring in pic goes on basket drive, bird beak pliers required here. Been so long since I did this, I can't remember exactly and transmission is already installed in washer.

Solvent to soak out and soften the old gunk still between The shaft and aluminum disc and alternately 'working it out up and down the shaft' with small wood hammer shaft below and wood block above to get it to free up on the shaft. If you can get it to move enough so that the 4 small springs can be removed then you can add a bearing removal tool in the bigger space
I noticed you have small dimples on the disc surface right above where the small springs are located.
Weird

 

[recyclewasher]

Another view pic

..

 

[thefixer]

The upper brake drum set screw goes into the spin tube, not against the agitator shaft. The set screw should not prevent the basket drive from being pulled off the agitator shaft. That retaining ring is to hold the lower brake drum to the clutch plate with yoke and brake pad in between so that the yoke lifts the clutch disc away from the pulley when the brake is applied.