The upper brake drum set screw goes into the spin tube, not against the agitator shaft. The set screw should not prevent the basket drive from being pulled off the agitator shaft. That retaining ring is to hold the lower brake drum to the clutch plate with yoke and brake pad in between so that the yoke lifts the clutch disc away from the pulley when the brake is applied.
It continues... The ongoing saga of the Inglis
- Thread starter turquoisedude
- Start date
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recyclewasher
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jun 11, 2012
- Messages
- 133
Thanks for clearing that up
Been a while since working on one
Been a while since working on one
The problem getting the basket drive off...
Paul,
What you are describing happens from time to time, in fact I had it with my 1986 KM 70, which isn't a high-mileage machine. There is a sleeve bearing inside the spin tube which rides against the agitator shaft, toward the top of the tube, just below the area where the spin tube seal is installed.
With use, the spin tube seal will cause some friction wear to occur on the agitator shaft, usually as polish marks (when you're lucky) and later as small grooves or gouges on the agitator shaft, just like the bearing seals can do to the outside of the spin tube. If or when these grooves/gouges get moist, the worn bare metal of the shaft starts to rust, and expand. It then won't allow the bearing in the spin tube to pass by when trying to remove the spin tube/basket drive.
Sometimes these can be very difficult. I have always been able to separate the parts, but a few have taken serious effort. My personal method: Make sure the drive pulley is secure on the gearcase, because you'll need it as a gripping surface and to prevent the internal gearcase parts from moving. Then clean the spin tube so it is not slippery in the center and you can get a firm grip on it. **Be sure the gearcase is engaged in agitate**. Grab the drive pulley with one hand, and the spin tube with the other, and TURN the spin tube back and forth while pulling UP on it, and hold the drive pulley steady so the agitator shaft doesn't move. Twisting it with upward force will eventually raise the tube over the wear-groove in the shaft. Adding some turbine oil inside the worn area may help keep things moving.
If a great deal of effort is required to make the above work, it can leave the sleeve bearing in the spin tube damaged, but if you don't plan to re-use the spin tube, it doesn't matter.
This is a method I started using on my own and has always worked for me, but it can be tedious - perhaps the professional service guys of AW know a better way?
Gordon
Paul,
What you are describing happens from time to time, in fact I had it with my 1986 KM 70, which isn't a high-mileage machine. There is a sleeve bearing inside the spin tube which rides against the agitator shaft, toward the top of the tube, just below the area where the spin tube seal is installed.
With use, the spin tube seal will cause some friction wear to occur on the agitator shaft, usually as polish marks (when you're lucky) and later as small grooves or gouges on the agitator shaft, just like the bearing seals can do to the outside of the spin tube. If or when these grooves/gouges get moist, the worn bare metal of the shaft starts to rust, and expand. It then won't allow the bearing in the spin tube to pass by when trying to remove the spin tube/basket drive.
Sometimes these can be very difficult. I have always been able to separate the parts, but a few have taken serious effort. My personal method: Make sure the drive pulley is secure on the gearcase, because you'll need it as a gripping surface and to prevent the internal gearcase parts from moving. Then clean the spin tube so it is not slippery in the center and you can get a firm grip on it. **Be sure the gearcase is engaged in agitate**. Grab the drive pulley with one hand, and the spin tube with the other, and TURN the spin tube back and forth while pulling UP on it, and hold the drive pulley steady so the agitator shaft doesn't move. Twisting it with upward force will eventually raise the tube over the wear-groove in the shaft. Adding some turbine oil inside the worn area may help keep things moving.
If a great deal of effort is required to make the above work, it can leave the sleeve bearing in the spin tube damaged, but if you don't plan to re-use the spin tube, it doesn't matter.
This is a method I started using on my own and has always worked for me, but it can be tedious - perhaps the professional service guys of AW know a better way?
Gordon
Paul - as a side note, WP recommends that the sleeve bearing in the spin tube get a teaspoon or so of turbine oil upon re-installation of the basket drive on the gearcase. This will lube the bearing and seal and slow the re-development of wear grooves.
G
G
Stuck Basket Drive
Hi Paul, I told you that the spin tube was stuck due to a rusted agitator shaft, Gordon has also confirmed this.
THERE is NO reason to even try to remove the basket drive from the transmission.
Both the agitator shaft and the spin tube are trash, if you want to save the transmission and basket drive components for rebuilding by installing a new agitator shaft and you can also rebuild the basket drive by installing a new spin tube, you need to do as I suggested and SAW the two shafts OFF several inches above the upper brake, then everything will slip apart easily.
I mailed you a new narrow belt yesterday PT # 96388, and if I were you I would try replacing the belt on the washer before starting to rebuild another transmission and basket drive assembly.
John L.
Hi Paul, I told you that the spin tube was stuck due to a rusted agitator shaft, Gordon has also confirmed this.
THERE is NO reason to even try to remove the basket drive from the transmission.
Both the agitator shaft and the spin tube are trash, if you want to save the transmission and basket drive components for rebuilding by installing a new agitator shaft and you can also rebuild the basket drive by installing a new spin tube, you need to do as I suggested and SAW the two shafts OFF several inches above the upper brake, then everything will slip apart easily.
I mailed you a new narrow belt yesterday PT # 96388, and if I were you I would try replacing the belt on the washer before starting to rebuild another transmission and basket drive assembly.
John L.
Well, I only finally got over to Vermont to pick up the new drive belt last week, and today, I had to try it out. I managed to get the transmission back in, bad back and all. Better still, I remembered to loop the belt around BEFORE re-attaching the transmission mounting bolts...
Now, before I put the son of a thing back in, I was able to make the wig-wag work and engage spin and agitate functions while manually turning the transmission pulley. With the motor running, I had agitation for about 5 seconds, then nothing. Note that in this video the wig-wag isn't moving.
I think I need a new transmission. Oh, and a large Manhattan, too... Sigh....
Now, before I put the son of a thing back in, I was able to make the wig-wag work and engage spin and agitate functions while manually turning the transmission pulley. With the motor running, I had agitation for about 5 seconds, then nothing. Note that in this video the wig-wag isn't moving.
I think I need a new transmission. Oh, and a large Manhattan, too... Sigh....
