Kenmore Belt Drive Blower Dryer questions

[kenmore70]

I'm restoring a 1962 Kenmore Belt Drive Blower Electric Dryer (MODEL 110.6218500) and have a few questions. I saw another post about this but didn't want to hog that post and there may be some differences between the two machines. In picture #1, how does the fan blade come off? Do you hold the pulley and turn the fan clockwise (like on the direct drive blower models)? In picture #2, I'd like to replace the rear drum seal but it looks like the clamping wire is riveted on, should I just pry it off and then try to rivet it back, what's the best way? In picture 3, the copper wire that you see goes from the service thermostat through the blower assembly housing, and it looks like it's held in place at both ends with a piece of epoxy or hard clay(not sure what it is). It broke off so I will need to replace that, is that what it is? THANKS

 

[revvinkevin]

 

 

Sorry I can't answer questions 1 or 2.   But as for question 3, that copper "wire" is a capillary tube that more than likely goes into the control panel to a thermostat or temperature control of some sort.   Others can tell you more about the actual function, but it IS a vital piece to the function of the dryer.

 

Where to get another?   Unless John Lefever (Combo52) has one in his parts stash (he very well may), you'll have to scavenge one from another dryer.

 

Kevin

 

[kenmore70]

Thanks Kevin,

Actually, the copper wire is not broken, it's that 'CLAY' piece that came off which looks like it holds it attached to the housing. That is what I will need to use to re-attach it, I'm just not sure what that substance is and want to use the right stuff.

 

[revvinkevin]

 

 

Ooooh, OK.   I (obviously) understood it as the "wire" itself broke off, sorry for the confusion.

 

In that case, some sort if high-temp putty or epoxy (may be over kill) would do it.   Check with your local Ace hardware or place like that for something that would work.

 

Good luck!

Kevin

 

[dnastrau]

Thermostat tube putty

Greetings:

 

I don't think I'd use epoxy on that.  If you attach it with epoxy you will never be able to get it off in the future if necessary.  I think the original substance is like (or is) plain old Plumber's putty or Mortite caulking cord - both available at any hardware store.  It should hold the tube against the housing and remain pliable for a long time.  Just be sure that the tube is directly touching the housing and the putty is just holding it down.

 

Andrew S.

 

 

 

[kenmore70]

Hey Guys,

Thanks for your answers so far, anybody have any ideas for my other questions in the first post? Thanks !!

 

[kenmore70]

Motor rebuild

I'm also debating whether or not to change the bearings in the 50+ year old motor on this Kenmore Dryer. They sound ok, but since I have everything apart I thought I'd just do it. Just wondering if any of you guys usually rebuild the motors (the serviceable ones) on the older machines when you rebuild the rest of the machine. Thanks

 

[akronman]

Oh yeah

I take apart a motor far enough to lube the bearings at both ends, and also get dust/lint/dirt out of the throw switch. Do it all while it's apart ONCE, saves trouble down the road.

As to replacing the bearings, instead of simply cleaning and oiling, I don't know.

 

[combo52]

Replacing Motor Bearings ?

If they are not worn replacing them would do far more harm than good, As Mark suggested getting a little fresh oil in them is all that should be necessary.

 

[bendixmark]

Fanblade

To remove the fan you remove the pulley and hold the shaft with a vise and unscrew the fan.I think it may be a lefthand thread.I used to do it all the time 40 years ago and it wasnt hard.I would not remove that seal I would add on to it if need be.

 

[kenmoreman]

Blower

You really don't need to take off the blower wheel. Remove the drive pulley and the backing plate can be pulled off exposing the bearing assembly. You can remove the clip on the oil wick and add turbine oit to saturate the wick. Let this penetrate overnight and the you can replace the wick clip and reassemble. As far as the rear seal goes if it is intact leave it alone. These were very durable. If the seal is not even then you should look at the rear bearing for wear or the front support felt that could be worn out tipping the dryer drum forward. That is easily replaced and the drum will realign. These were great dryers.

 

[kenmore70]

Rear Drum Seal

Thanks kenmoreman and all you guys for your replies. The reason I want to take off the rear drum seal is because I may have the interior of the drum powder coated, it's in rough shape and I have a friend that can do this, but the felt seals (front and rear) need to come off. So if anyone has ever replaced the rear seal please let me know how you did it. The front seal looks more straight forward.

Also, for the rear drum bearing, would you use turbine oil to lubricate this or something else? How about the drive pulley, what's the best thing to use to lubricate that part? THANKS

 

[kenmoreman]

You should be able to leave it on and either cover it with tape or roll it over so it is only on the outside of the drum also secured with tape. The front seal stays on the front panel so that should not be a problem. You have to be careful with the front bearing removal so you don't break it but it is very doable.

 

[akronman]

Hey Tom

Throw some pics on here! We like to watch!