Kenmore belt drive clunking/banging and not spinning/draining properly?

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Cam bar spring

Your problem is definately the cam bar spring based on it being louder than the noise on the video. As far as the general noiseness you can't compare a Lady K with a belt drive portable. Both great machines but different sound levels while running.
 
well, under worst case scenarios, you might consider for them to get a 24" direct drive washer for that location.....

lighter to lift and put in place, plus the body would lift off if service is ever needed.....

a last resort thing, but something to consider if you have to go that route...
 
If I put it into a spin cycle empty, it gives a single loud clunk and then spins normally. The thing is, I had a 24" direct drive machine at the time they got these, but given the location, at the time it needed to connect to the faucet for water supply, and needed a long drain hose and power cord. They have since installed an outlet next to the washer and ran a permanent water line (although only cold, ick!) So a 24" direct drive would be doable now, they would just need to install a hot water line and a longer drain hose.
 
Malfunctioning BD Washer

You have several problems going on here, first the clunking going into spin [ which is not causing any performance problem by the way ] is probably a loose cam bar hold down spring as already mentioned, tightening the bolt that holds it down will probably eliminate the noise but the washer will not work any better.

 

The reason the washer stops pumping out remaining water once it tries to spin is because the belt is loose and the clutch is not slipping properly so the belt starts slipping on the motor pulley and since the belt has slowed down so much the pump can not pump water at all. *

 

You might have a bad timer, these washers had a 2 or 4 minute pump out period, also the buzzing sound that goes away when the lid is lifted during fill raises questions, The only electrical part that goes through the lid switch is the spin solenoid on this washer. The machine could also have some shorted wiring.

 

* foot note  The ONLY reason a belt ever fails of a BD WP washer like this is that it is loose, A tight pump etc Can Not cause the belt to burn and fail. The great majority of WP BD washers ever in use have loose belts after a good number of years of use, the washers often run fine like this for years as long as everything goes well, but finally the belt looses traction as the wig-wag tries to shift into or out of spin or agitate and the belt stops moving and the motor keeps running and burns through the belt, we have seen this somewhere around 3000 times over the years.

 

John L.
 
Is there anything within reason that can be done to make the clutch slip properly? The washer does seem to bog down a bit when it is going into spin, but does work fine once the tub is empty. Should I check the tension of the belt and tighten it?
 
You should tighten the belt, it's not hard to do, just take the back panel off and hit/tap motor with a hammer to tighten belt to 1/2 inch indention.
You may have a timer issue also, pump out time for this washer is 4 minuets.

My parent brought this true no frill 24 inch standard capacity washer and boy did we do a lot of laundry for a family of 6!
 
Clutch

lift up the top and see that if the drain hose is kinked inside where it hooks up to the gooseneck going out. You should make sure the belt is tight. I doubt you have any clutch slippage problems. I wouldn't go there until you address the drainage issue and the cam bar tightening. This machine that s doing everything it should with these problems.These were amazingly durable machines. Even better than the later versions they came out with. Good Luck! Do the easy things first!
 
Proper Way To Tighten A Belt On A WP BD Washer

Remove back panel and loosen the 9/16" nut above the base plate 1 turn, also loosen the other 9/16" nut on the front motor mounting bracket 1 turn, then take a pry bar at least 14-20 inches long and place between the two motor mounting brackets from the rear of the washer and pull the pry bar to the left until the belt is tight, and while holding it tight tighten the rear 9/16" nut above the base plate. At this point release tension on the pry bar and tighten the front 9/16" nut.

 

There is no other correct way to tighten the belt on a WP BD washer and what ever you do DO NOT hit the motor with a hammer as you may destroy it.

 

If this washer has the three pad clutch lining the clutch will now slip correctly as the washer accelerates into spin, if it has the older full friction lining like a car clutch you may have to spray the lining with a silicone lubricant to get the clutch to slip properly as the basket accelerates to full spin speed.

 

John L.
 
I plan on going over Tuesday to hoist it out of its corner and dig in, it will take 3 strong guys to lift it out, so it may be sitting out for a bit if I'm not able to get it working properly. Will see what I find and update when I get home :)
 
single clunk

I think I can explain the single clunk, there is a screw that holds down the cam bars if it gets loose the spin cam bar will ram into the motor making the loud clunk. Tighten it and that noise will go away.
 
Update.... It isn't fixed.... We moved it to find the cam bar spring and bolt laying on the floor under the washer. It took me all of 2 hours to get the bolt and spring back in place, which required me to lower the transmission. After reassembling everything, it now doesn't drain at all (I think I have that one figured out, I think I have the belt on wrong) and.... Agitates and spins at the same time! The cam bar solenoids are both working, as it appears to be shifting (cam bars are moving), but it spins as soon as the lid switch is pressed during the wash cycle, while it is agitating.
 
And I have to go back tomorrow and figure something out, it's sitting in the middle of their kitchen. I did measure the space and a standard 27" washer will fit, tight, but it should be able to be done. If I can't figure this thing out, that will be the next step.
 
It is now operating properly, agitating and spinning, not at the same time! It's now draining, and has done a few loads, but now LEAKS. I ran one load before even putting it back in its corner, and it didn't lose a drop. A 6 foot trip into the bathroom and over the toilet (staying upright the entire time), and now it leaks like a sieve when going into the spin cycle. Not a drop on any other portion of the cycle, but once it drains and starts to spin, water is leaking from somewhere. I'm over this washer, every repair has been a nightmare.
 
Leaking like a sieve

Is it possible there is a drain backup issue? What is it draining into? If it didn't leak before you reinstalled it why would it pour water now? Just wondering. I hate to see you give up after all this.
 
It drains into the bathroom sink, which isn't backing up. I almost wonder if maybe the tub ring (cover?) Is loose or maybe has a bad seal? I couldn't exactly see where the water is coming from, but it appears to be on the right side near the front, it doesn't seem to be coming from the lint filter. It isn't the pump, or it seems like it would be leaking whenever the washer is running, right? It's only leaking when it is spinning.
 
You should be able to watch it in spin with the top lifted up. At least it may help you locate the leak? I bet it's something simple at this point. Don't give up. Look how much you have already learned. Don't get frustrated.
 

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