Kenmore belt drive clunking/banging and not spinning/draining properly?

Automatic Washer - The world's coolest Washing Machines, Dryers and Dishwashers

Help Support :

I would bet...

That this machine is designed to have a standard drain hose and not the thinner hose for a 24" portable.
They may need to switch out the hose, then pay extra attention to the basin the machine empties into...

Malcolm
 
I went over and observed it's operation, started a load- filled, started agitating (with a slight clunk, nothing too unusual), drained for 50 seconds, then made a large, loud clunk into spin (not out of spin as I'd previously thought), with about 1/4 tub of water. Kicked out of spin and almost immediately back in with another loud clunk. Immediately upon kicking into spin, all draining stopped, and as soon as it kicked back out, a strong stream of water was gushing from the drain hose. Would have continued on until either the spin cycle had finished or all the water drained so I just lifted the lid to stop it from spinning. In about a minute, the tub was empty and there was nothing flowing from the drain hose, so I closed the lid and let it get on with spinning. Again, large heavy clunk and all draining stopped, but slowly recovered as the tub gained speed. This time it did it's spray rinses and continued on into the rinse. Same story at the final spin- it kicked in with loud clunks and stopped draining, then back out and began draining. I left the lid up until the tub had emptied and it worked fine, same clunk but eventually came up to speed and drained the spun out water. The machine is agitating perfectly fine, draining well as long as the lid is left up, and coming to full spin speed after a large clunk. I then started a second load with the lid up, and as it was filling I closed the lid to hear a loud buzzing (possibly a solenoid?) Which stopped as soon as the lid was lifted (but continued to fill), then started back as soon as the lid was closed. Filled to its proper level and washed, and as soon as I heard it draining, I lifted the lid until the tub was empty, then closed the lid to begin spinning (single loud clunk), same for rinse minus the buzz while filling. I'm thinking the belt is slipping for one, but that isn't causing the clunking noise. I will attach a couple pictures, the first should be the water level and lint filter flow while washing, the second a picture of the washer and it's current location.

dustin92-2016121020232702775_1.jpg

dustin92-2016121020232702775_2.jpg
 
Clunk noise

On top of the transmission there is a bar that goes across the top of the both cam bars.It's called a cam bar spring. It is held down by a screw that I believe has a 7/16 or 3/8 head. These sometimes loosen And the spring loses it's hold down tension. When the cam bar shifts during the spin cycle and it will make a very loud clunking noise. You can tip the machine on its face and access the nut with a combination wrench and tighten it down again. This will eliminate the noise when the agitate solenoid or the spin solenoid are activated.It will shift silently. This will fix it.
 
I'm really starting to think that there is something either wrong with the timer, or a short somewhere in that power is being sent to the spin solenoid on the wig-wag all the time. Maybe a contact that is stuck closed in the timer? This would explain the buzzing sound you hear during filling and why it stops when you lift the lid, and also why the machine is going into spin too quickly. The only thing that is preventing it from spinning while it is agitating is the pressure switch being satisfied, but once it starts draining, as soon as the pressure switch is no longer satisfied, power gets sent to the solenoid and the washer tries to start spinning, and kicks out once the water rises and re-satisfies the pressure switch (as others have explained). Another thing that would confirm my theory that the solenoid is on all the time is if the washer takes longer to stop spinning at the end of the spin period with the lid left closed than when the lid is opened mid way though the spin cycle. If the spin solenoid stays energized after spin, even though the timer cuts power to the motor, the washer does not shift out of spin and thus the brake is not applied, so the spin coasts to a stop rather than brakes. Lifting the lid interrupts the power to the solenoid, causing the washer to shift out of spin and apply the brake.
 
Actually if the lid is opened during spin it takes a bit to slow down, but there is obviously some braking going on, the brake may be weak but it's doing something. The buzzing solenoid is only heard during the wash fill, and not always. it stops as soon as agitation starts. (It is loud enough to be heard over the machine) I'll venture out today and see what roads are like (got quite a bit of snow last night) wnd if not too bad I may go over and see if we can get it moved out. There may be a timer problem or something similar, but I'm just trying to get it spinning and draining properly, and eliminate the clunking noise. The short drain and buzzing on wash fill have been present since I picked the machines up for them nearly a year ago.
 
Hmmm...

A single 50 second increment of neutral drain doesn't seem quite right.
The timer schematic might be on the service panel on the back of the cabinet.
Perhaps the timer was replaced at some point with a 50hz model causing it to cycle fast?
There may also be a hose between the pump outlet and the cabinet joint the is partially kinked.
After the clunk into spin, does the machine fall silent until it gradually picks up spin speed?
Clutch might be grabbing and need adjustment.

Malcolm
 
Your clunking noise is a mechanical problem. Typically on these belt drive units the belt goes bad because something made it go bad.

The pump is the most popular failure. Likely it's binding up, and only pumping when the motor is at full speed. Once the basket engages, there is no longer enough torque to make it all happen. The drive system should turn by hand easily, if not, there is something wrong.
 
Cam bar spring

Your problem is definately the cam bar spring based on it being louder than the noise on the video. As far as the general noiseness you can't compare a Lady K with a belt drive portable. Both great machines but different sound levels while running.
 
How does the machine react when you turn off the water and manually advance the timer into the spin cycle? If it spins without drama then you don't have a mechanical problem.
 
well, under worst case scenarios, you might consider for them to get a 24" direct drive washer for that location.....

lighter to lift and put in place, plus the body would lift off if service is ever needed.....

a last resort thing, but something to consider if you have to go that route...
 
If I put it into a spin cycle empty, it gives a single loud clunk and then spins normally. The thing is, I had a 24" direct drive machine at the time they got these, but given the location, at the time it needed to connect to the faucet for water supply, and needed a long drain hose and power cord. They have since installed an outlet next to the washer and ran a permanent water line (although only cold, ick!) So a 24" direct drive would be doable now, they would just need to install a hot water line and a longer drain hose.
 
Malfunctioning BD Washer

You have several problems going on here, first the clunking going into spin [ which is not causing any performance problem by the way ] is probably a loose cam bar hold down spring as already mentioned, tightening the bolt that holds it down will probably eliminate the noise but the washer will not work any better.

 

The reason the washer stops pumping out remaining water once it tries to spin is because the belt is loose and the clutch is not slipping properly so the belt starts slipping on the motor pulley and since the belt has slowed down so much the pump can not pump water at all. *

 

You might have a bad timer, these washers had a 2 or 4 minute pump out period, also the buzzing sound that goes away when the lid is lifted during fill raises questions, The only electrical part that goes through the lid switch is the spin solenoid on this washer. The machine could also have some shorted wiring.

 

* foot note  The ONLY reason a belt ever fails of a BD WP washer like this is that it is loose, A tight pump etc Can Not cause the belt to burn and fail. The great majority of WP BD washers ever in use have loose belts after a good number of years of use, the washers often run fine like this for years as long as everything goes well, but finally the belt looses traction as the wig-wag tries to shift into or out of spin or agitate and the belt stops moving and the motor keeps running and burns through the belt, we have seen this somewhere around 3000 times over the years.

 

John L.
 
Is there anything within reason that can be done to make the clutch slip properly? The washer does seem to bog down a bit when it is going into spin, but does work fine once the tub is empty. Should I check the tension of the belt and tighten it?
 
You should tighten the belt, it's not hard to do, just take the back panel off and hit/tap motor with a hammer to tighten belt to 1/2 inch indention.
You may have a timer issue also, pump out time for this washer is 4 minuets.

My parent brought this true no frill 24 inch standard capacity washer and boy did we do a lot of laundry for a family of 6!
 
Clutch

lift up the top and see that if the drain hose is kinked inside where it hooks up to the gooseneck going out. You should make sure the belt is tight. I doubt you have any clutch slippage problems. I wouldn't go there until you address the drainage issue and the cam bar tightening. This machine that s doing everything it should with these problems.These were amazingly durable machines. Even better than the later versions they came out with. Good Luck! Do the easy things first!
 
Proper Way To Tighten A Belt On A WP BD Washer

Remove back panel and loosen the 9/16" nut above the base plate 1 turn, also loosen the other 9/16" nut on the front motor mounting bracket 1 turn, then take a pry bar at least 14-20 inches long and place between the two motor mounting brackets from the rear of the washer and pull the pry bar to the left until the belt is tight, and while holding it tight tighten the rear 9/16" nut above the base plate. At this point release tension on the pry bar and tighten the front 9/16" nut.

 

There is no other correct way to tighten the belt on a WP BD washer and what ever you do DO NOT hit the motor with a hammer as you may destroy it.

 

If this washer has the three pad clutch lining the clutch will now slip correctly as the washer accelerates into spin, if it has the older full friction lining like a car clutch you may have to spray the lining with a silicone lubricant to get the clutch to slip properly as the basket accelerates to full spin speed.

 

John L.
 
I plan on going over Tuesday to hoist it out of its corner and dig in, it will take 3 strong guys to lift it out, so it may be sitting out for a bit if I'm not able to get it working properly. Will see what I find and update when I get home :)
 
single clunk

I think I can explain the single clunk, there is a screw that holds down the cam bars if it gets loose the spin cam bar will ram into the motor making the loud clunk. Tighten it and that noise will go away.
 
Update.... It isn't fixed.... We moved it to find the cam bar spring and bolt laying on the floor under the washer. It took me all of 2 hours to get the bolt and spring back in place, which required me to lower the transmission. After reassembling everything, it now doesn't drain at all (I think I have that one figured out, I think I have the belt on wrong) and.... Agitates and spins at the same time! The cam bar solenoids are both working, as it appears to be shifting (cam bars are moving), but it spins as soon as the lid switch is pressed during the wash cycle, while it is agitating.
 
And I have to go back tomorrow and figure something out, it's sitting in the middle of their kitchen. I did measure the space and a standard 27" washer will fit, tight, but it should be able to be done. If I can't figure this thing out, that will be the next step.
 
It is now operating properly, agitating and spinning, not at the same time! It's now draining, and has done a few loads, but now LEAKS. I ran one load before even putting it back in its corner, and it didn't lose a drop. A 6 foot trip into the bathroom and over the toilet (staying upright the entire time), and now it leaks like a sieve when going into the spin cycle. Not a drop on any other portion of the cycle, but once it drains and starts to spin, water is leaking from somewhere. I'm over this washer, every repair has been a nightmare.
 
Leaking like a sieve

Is it possible there is a drain backup issue? What is it draining into? If it didn't leak before you reinstalled it why would it pour water now? Just wondering. I hate to see you give up after all this.
 
It drains into the bathroom sink, which isn't backing up. I almost wonder if maybe the tub ring (cover?) Is loose or maybe has a bad seal? I couldn't exactly see where the water is coming from, but it appears to be on the right side near the front, it doesn't seem to be coming from the lint filter. It isn't the pump, or it seems like it would be leaking whenever the washer is running, right? It's only leaking when it is spinning.
 
You should be able to watch it in spin with the top lifted up. At least it may help you locate the leak? I bet it's something simple at this point. Don't give up. Look how much you have already learned. Don't get frustrated.
 
update!

We have success! It's working properly and NOT leaking! Found out the drain hose was loose and causing the water to leak inside the cabinet, running across and under to the front right side. Ran a load and all seems fine, no more clunking and banging, washing, draining and spinning. I'm going to go over probably tomorrow and put a larger diameter drain hose on to help it drain a little better.
 

Similar threads

D
Kenmore 70 Series Washer Banging - Delicate Spin Only
Replies
8
Views
464
ditobe
D
T
1968 Kenmore has stopped spinning at all
Replies
7
Views
456
vacerator
V
K
1956 Kenmore Cycla Fabric washer restore completed
Replies
18
Views
1K
kenmore70
K
P
Direct-Drive Whirlpool/Kenmore Washer Repair Questions
Replies
2
Views
516
penney025
P
Chetlaham
Early Direct Drive Pause During Spin-Drain
Replies
2
Views
56
Chetlaham
Chetlaham

Latest posts

Back
Top