Load Levels in new Speed Queen TL

[jp10558]

I've had a ~7 year old Kenmore Oasis TL non HE (has an agitator anyway). It's recently started (last few months) to sound like it's a jet engine on spin cycle. Based on comparing to YouTube videos, it seems likely that it is the berings. So I've ordered a Speed Queen TL TOL model to replace it from a local appliance dealer. It will be delivered on Monday.

The issue has come up as to if we "broke" the Kenmore, and how to avoid that with the Speed Queen. Three main issues:
1) We recently replaced our PureWash unit with the latest model under warranty. This is a different model, but I set it up like the previous one for non HE. Just after this the noise seemed to start.

2) We have hard water. I have washed, with a second rinse for years, since the first PureWash was installed. Cold / Cold and no detergent except for every 6th time or so. Works well enough for cleaning for me.

3) I have one weeks worth of clothes, so 7 pairs of slacks, size 50, 7 shirts, 8 or so undershirts, socks, 3 sets of PJs. It fills a tall basket that is a small oval from WalMart. The Kenmore is a 4.5 Cu Ft machine, the largest washer I've ever seen. The load totally fills the tub when dry, up to the top of the white plastic that is over the stainless steel tub. I know the SQ is 3.3 cu ft, so I know I'll have to do a smaller load.

The questions are:
a) Is the PureWash damaging? The appliance dealer says he uses one with his Speed Queen, but he might say anything to get someone to buy from him vs Lowes etc...

b) Is it actually important to put in super washing soda (sodium carbonate) or something containing it?

c) how much should I do in one load and what would be overloaded? I've been blamed for overloading the Kenmore and told that's why it broke after only 7 years. It's never walked or made noises or even shook much until this noise started. Now it shakes a little, but doesn't bang against the dryer or walk. When done the clothes have dropped down to about halfway up the stainless steel tub...

I read http://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?60802 and watched the videos, but they're for FL machines, and commercial. They sure stuff in the load though.

 

[LaVidaBoem]

Well, you didn't help her much.

Hello,

These machines in Maytag or Whirlpool badging are my #1 repair, sales, and service.

 

The best models are the ones with the agitator...over the impeller, and either can be adapted to work with the same control panel, and motor controller.

 

Looking at what you listed...for a tech or a wash fiend such as some of us...

 

That Should Be THREE loads...

 

1. Slacks

2. Dress Shirts

3. Everything else.

 

I would be not be surprised with the correct cycle options and enough detergent, the quick cycle would yield outstanding results for each of the 3 loads.

 

After all these years of watching people underdose on detergents, I was finally glad to hear Combo52 say what I say:

Had seen far more machines suffer from too little detergent than too much.

 

That's why I like tide so much, not only is it really good stuff, but really has what a machine needs to protect it.

 

If you are softening your water, then it does take less detergent.

But not That Much Less...be careful on the too little.

 

Now, in all fairness, you did pretty good to get 7 years out of the thing...but I have seen all extremes.

The cabrio I had on here earlier this year  that I serviced, a WTW6200SXXX model, looks like a 10 year machine or more...

The other ones, maybe 3 to 5 years, and I see cold water wash w/liquid detergent destroy them along with overloading as the culprit.

 

However, the blames for such claims as EXTRA-ORDINARY capacity is just Bogus, perpetuated by the manufacturers.

 

A fellow tech in the late 90's mentioned that famous Sears commercial to me when the Duets came out...

..."16 pairs of Jeans (of various sizes) will fit into...."

Yes, he said, they will "fit", but that drum and bearings won't last a year...!

 

A Good Cabrio with the max water level will wash more clothes than any of our old top loaders would, but not that much more.

And, contrary to popular beliefs, no frontloader  will wash as many clothes correctly, without damage, as the top loaders, both current and past "old school machines".

 

Good Luck, & Hope this Helps,

LaVidaBoem

 

[jp10558]

Thanks. I guess I don't feel so bad as we got 7 or so years out of it. I'm actually trying to figure out how I should change laundry for use with the speed queen. Cold / Cold was recommended to me long ago to get out stains because hot water would set them in. I'm beginning to think this isn't true from this forum. However, the PureWash which washes without any detergent has to use cold / cold to work at all. If I would use hot water I'm concerned about shrinking clothes as well as now needing to use detergent as well.

Maybe my concern is that I have been using All free and clear before the pure wash and it seemed to do about as good a job without any degerent as with the All. I don't like scents, I wash my clothes to get *rid* of smells, not add them. I also get most stuff at Sams Club, so it's All free and clear or the detergent pack.

I suppose if it really hurt the washer to use the Pure Wash w/out detergent (I'm adding Washing Soda after reading a bunch of threads on here) then I would consider something else. What about Purex? That's what I used previous to All.

Anyway, detergent debates aside:

how far up the tub can I safely load the Speed Queen with a dry load? Does Sodium Carbonate / Washing Soda actually help protect the seals?

 

[LaVidaBoem]

I don't have an opinion of additives...

Morning,

 

I know the thinking that the softer the water, no need for further surfactants to clean clothes...wrong. I will never buy that...

 

Sure, you may one of the ones, that with lightly soiled clothes , only body oils etc, that you don't need a strong detergent...

All is one of my favorite old detergents, but the Sun Formula we have now in Liquids is far from the old All powder that was non-sudsing.

No fan of Liquids here, I suppose any of those will work.

Some on the second level detergents, in powder, will protect that speed queen much longer...Unscented surf, fab, cheer...are all better in my opinion.

 

As Far as loading, with a speed queen or any top loader, let the thing fill, dump your detergent, add clothes while agitating to get the old time feel for the load it will handle...

An Old Guide was to add clothes, and as long as you could push down easily, and clothes were not to dense...you were OK on the loading...

 

Now about the dry line loading of the speed queen, not over 2/3rd's to the top will produce the best wash action with the least abrasion of the garments/fabrics.

 

7 pairs of Slacks, 50 waist, is a plenty load for that washer, if not on the tight side.

 

Going back to a 30 minute wash cycle, will allow you to do these 3 loads in the time that one of these top loads mentioned above can do.

 

And without all the color fading, bruising of fabrics, strain on the machine.

Hot water is great, but there is Warm in between the Cold, and Hot thinking...

On your load above, Warm for the Slacks.

 

If heavy, colorfast dress shirts,...Hot will surprise you, keeps deodorant stains and wring-around-collar in check, and warm will be better than cold if necessary for other dress shirt material.

 

That last load, hot for sure, but warm is better than old cold.

 

A machine needs no less than warm most of the times to make detergents work better, and to prevent the accumulation of "Scrunge" in the machine, and from redepositing on clothes.

 

I can't think of one thing that I want cold for, Tepid Maybe, but not cold.

 

One of the most important statements in Whirlpool and Maytag books back in the day.

Maytag warned that "no detergent works in water below 75°, and Whirlpool warned of damage to fabrics when wet; ie, that was when most fabric damaged happened, and further it was in the spin cycle...Hence their tightly regulated upper spin speed limits.

 

Anyway, my advice would be to find a suitable powder for your needs, use warm for most loads if unsure of "hot", and don't overload that queen...clothes need to move freely for best wash action, and longevity...both for them and the machine.

 

Good Luck, Hope you enjoy your new machine,

as it is one of last simple machines out there...

 

LaVidaBoem

 

Post Script:

When you get the New Girl...smoke a Marlboro while you watch her work!

Have a Great New Year, and send us a few Pics...

 

[combo52]

Bad seals and bearings in a seven-year-old Cabrio

The real question is is there any mineral buildup in the old washer. If there is you need to use detergent more detergent hotter water to prevent this type of damage from happening to the new washer.

You may want to hold onto the broken Cabrio it's fairly easy to put new bearings and seals in these machines now and you might find out that you like this washer better than the new speed queen. Or you just may want to have an extra washer.

 

[jp10558]

Hmm, the youtube videos didn't make the Kenmore Oasis look easy to repair. I'm far from an appliance geek or repair person (I'm a computer geek!). I also didn't think I could pay to get it repaired for less than $500, hope I wasn't led astray. I wanted the Speed Queen because it seemed the most like the Maytag my parents got from my grandmother when I was a kid - that washer was 20 years old when they got it, and with simple repairs lasted them another 17 years IIRC... Though I was young at the time, we had that washer set at least till I was in High School.

I'm sort of hoping the Speed Queen will last similarily with simple repairs we can easily perform. I can't really tell if I'm hoping in vain.

 

[LaVidaBoem]

Them 500 dollar "Jobs"

Hey again...

 

Yes, its such a shame that nobody likes to really "earn" their money...they want to make a "lick" on every customer.

 

My going rate for the bearing/seal job, and only that is 200 bucks...and takes 45 minutes to 1 hour.

I clear 1 bill, and that's enough for any man...

 

LaVidaBoem

 

Post Script:

If you decide to trash the Oasis, email me, I will pay you a fair price for the agitator, with shipping...very easy to remove, and ship.

 

[washer111]

I have absolutely no clue what "PureWash" is, and don't want to.
It sounds about as good as laundry balls or those "magnetic water softeners" that actually don't do anything that credible science can demonstrate.
http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/...s-struggle-in-consumer-reports-test/index.htm
Detergent or soap-free laundering hasn't really been a huge idea for at least a couple-hundred years. And back then, laundry was often boiled in huge pots over wood fires - a product of the soap and fabrics of the time, but that isn't to say that hot washing is irrelevant today. It has its place for gently bleaching fabrics and loosening fabric to work stains out.

Being "anti-cold water," I will tell you that will allow oils from your skin (or cooking/automotive activities) found in your clothes to buildup in the washer. A lack of detergent means that even enzymes cannot control this buildup.
John has posted plentifully on ensuring not to under-dose detergent, using too cold of water or excessively rinsing as this will supposedly rinse away chemicals in the detergent that will help retain seal condition.

Hot water can and will set some specific stains - particularly blood, protein and occasionally sweat-related stains. If your wait over a couple of days between loads, it may be prudent to use a small amount of water to pre-rinse your shirts - letting them dry can actually rot the fabric, create sweat stains and hard-to-shift odors.
You can also make a detergent paste, or use a pre-treating device if you are concerned about setting stains.

The advice above regarding temperature selection is good. "CHOICE" here in Australia recommends that your final wash on laundry day is "HOT" without fabric softener. This helps to clean the machine. Failing that, they recommend a hot wash somewhere every 20 washes or something along those lines...
Our Miele will generate a "HYGIENE INFO" warning if a wash in at 140° or more doesn't occur for a certain number of cycles.

Personally - I found that washing below warm resulted in odor buildup in the washer, and my clothes (darks) were emerging a bit smelly although still seemingly clean. They are now washed in warm which works better. Most of the rest of my washing is "Very-warm" to hot temps.