Looking for MAYTAG WASHER Nylon Pinion 2-10315

[maytagbeliever]

I have taken apart my 1985 Maytag LA512 washing machine and disassembled the transmission and found the broken part was the nylon pinion (P/N 210315). Is there anyone that has this part or knows where I can find it? In this age of 3D printer fabrication, it seem like it would easy to make this part also? It seams like it was a bad idea for Maytag to put 10 pin holes right in the middle of two narrowly divided gear surfaces! Look how it broke. I found one on ebay without the pin holes claiming it is a OEM Maytag original part. Any ideas or help is greatly appreciated.

PS. If feel sad that for 35 years I took my Maytag washer and dryer completely for granted because they washed and dried predictably and reliably for 35 years. My 87 year old mom has the same 1988 washer and dryer and hers have been working for 32 years. The only problem - she had a hose started leaking that just needed to be tightened!

 

[lowefficiency]

That is interesting that the "replacement" doesn't have those holes...

On your machine, can you tell if this gear was in fact the root failure? Or was it simply the "fuse" that broke when something else went awry?

 

[qsd-dan]

Here's a prime example why I've ALWAYS strongly recommended replacing this part during a rebuild on this forum for more than a decade.

This outfit has 33 of them in stock.

Be sure to replace the lower o-ring along with the clutch washers while you're in there.

Also, check the shaft in the upper transmission housing. It should turn smoothly with little effort.

https://www.appliancepartscompany.com/PINION_5

 

[maytagbeliever]

I agree I would think it is a fuse that maybe the tub is no longer turning freely and bearings need to be replaced. Thanks so much for the lead to that pinion gear I will buy it!

In addition, attached is the list of parts I plan to order and replace (any suggestions?).

Also, what is the correct/best paint to paint over the bare steel where I had to remove rust on the outer tub, top rim of inner tub and the porcelain tub cover where water enters? It is not easy to find a product the seals metal from rust and adheres to steel and porcelain and won't leach into clothes and long lasting.

 

[qsd-dan]

Like I stated above, before you move on make damn sure the shaft in the upper trans housing smoothly turns with ease. DO NOT go any further in the resto without confirming this! If it does operate smooth, turn the housing upside down on a level surface, fill the shaft oil gallery with trans oil and let it soak in for a day or so while giving the shaft an occasional turn. This will help lubricate the upper sleeve bearing.

Your parts list looks complete. Check the filter screens in the water valve. If either one is plugged or plugging up, you may want to add that to your list. There's no need to purchase a lug stop, those rarely fail, and if it does, it's easy to access.

POR-15 is a product that most here have had success for rust issues. I don't have have first hand experience with it though.

 

[qsd-dan]

Just noticed that you'll want to add a tub cover seal to the list. Part# 211232

 

[lowefficiency]

echoing Dan's comments, and preemptively anticipating John L's response, what does the shaft look like when you pull off the agitator?

 

[sel8207]

clutch washer?`

Where is the clutch washer and what does it look like? if anyone has a. picture. thanks much. Les.

 

[maytagbeliever]

Response

I turned the top shaft or the gear and it is a little tight like a bearing may be binding a little. I can look through a hole in the upper transmission housing and see the shaft still looks like new (still having a clean glossy gray epoxy coating) as does the agitator shaft (shaft gets a little corroded
where it enters the housing. Now I am worried!

I didn't add on a tub cover seal because mine looks like it is in excellent condition. I will clean it with some silicon spray.

 

[maytagbeliever]

update

I forgot to say I filled the shaft hole with WD40 and turned it a lot then emptied it and put motor oil and can feel the bearing slightly grab then let go making a slight pulse when I turn it.

Does this mean now I must buy a new orbital transmission or a new machine?

 

[hobbyapocalypse]

clutch washers

The 2 washers shown under the pinion gear in the picture (from Brian's transmission rebuild tutorial).

Rebuild of Maytag Transmission and Transplant into LAT 9800 AAW.

To the best of my recollection this is my step by step rebuild, with photos, from last summer of a Maytag Newton style trans. put into a newer LAT model. I hope this is helpful to someone. Here’s the HA408 machine’s top. Almost hated to take it apart. It was salvageable. It came with a HDE606...

www.automaticwasher.org

 

[maytagbeliever]

top gearbox shaft looks ok

I took the gear off top shaft and everything looks fine.

Bad News! I called Appliance Parts Company to add a part to my order and found out they don't have 31 pinion gears. They back ordered 31 gears, but it will never be filled because part's not available. So they let me order one even there is no and will be no inventory!

So now I am back to no nylon pinion gear unless the one from Amazon without pin holes is of the same size and quality.):

 

[qsd-dan]

That bearing surface of the shaft looks to be in perfect condition (unless you cleaned it up) so the upper bearing itself should be fine.

You could use the Amazon gear and carefully drill your own hole for the pin once the pinion gear and clutch washers are in place and the screw is cinched up nice and tight. All it does is prevent the screw from backing out.

 

[lorainfurniture]

I may have one

If there is only one style for the helical transmission then I have one to spare. Send me an email

 

[qsd-dan]

That same pinion gear was used all the back to the AMP models in 1949. 1949-1989 is a good run.

The orbital transmissions used a different (inferior) coned pinion gear that likes to wear out overtime and quits making contact with the bevel gear.

 

[swestoyz]

I'd say buy the gear off ebay without the hole and drill one yourself. They are probably old stock, prior to Maytag changing the part to have the holes pre-drilled. Number 34 drill looks to be a 0.1110 drill.

Wouldn't hurt to ask the seller if they have any with the pre-drilled holes.

Ben

 

[maytagbeliever]

Pinion Gear from Ebay

When I installed the gear ordered from ebay and turned the shaft, I noticed a section 2 or 3 gear teeth on the pinion would bind every time they made contact. I also had to trim some part mold remains off the gear. My guess someone had the gear copied maybe in China or something. Or maybe only the part I got is slightly defective.

I don't know what the long term effect of this defect would be, better to not find out the hard way! I will be sending it back if i can find a better replacement.

I bought Sta-Lube Gear Oil SAE 85W90 $10 like someone else here used. I hope it is a good one. Maytag oil was $20.

 

[lowefficiency]

Before you send it back, did you try marking the offending teeth, then rotating the plastic gear 180 degrees on the shaft?

If it's the same (marked) teeth that bind, you would confirm that it is the plastic gear at fault.
If it binds in a different spot, it would indicate that the metal shaft isn't straight (or wasn't machined on center).

I certainly wouldn't expect the metal shaft to be the problem, but it might be worth double-checking, since that seller appears to be the only plastic gear source available...

 

[d-jones]

Steven

I sent you a link through your email address to two different appliance shops showing that pinion in stock. Never heard anything back. Just wondering if you even saw it.