Mark 27 Drop-In

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pulltostart

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I've always liked the look of this little range, more so the ones without the backsplash but I realize that the backsplash is necessary to get the self-cleaning oven.

Anyway, I'm shopping for a range for the Mobile house and this one is a possibility. I've never had one of these and certainly never installed one so I have a question about the installation. The house currently has a space for a 30" range (and it is at the end of the base cabinets), so I would have to create a false cabinet to support and house the range. How is the weight of these ranges carried? Does it literally hang from the countertop? Or is the weight carried by the front rail of the cabinet? Or some under framework?

Tell me what you know.

lawrence

pulltostart++3-29-2014-12-06-14.jpg
 
27 inch drop in

You will need to build a base for this to stand on. Often times they would build a drawer into this base. Also a side panel on the right. They still make these 27 inch models new but they are very pricy.
 
Mark 27 GE Range

These hang completely from the counter-top, do not try supporting it from the bottom. If you do not have a cabinet on one side you need a sturdy side panel permanently installed, and do note, the side panel is not to be attached to the range.

If you have any questions consult the installation instructions.

PS they are great ranges.
 
Another Tip:

When building the countertop from which this is to "hang," you should take care at every stage of construction to get the cabinet and countertop dead level.

If you don't, you'll have problems ever after. In the St. Charles kitchen I had during the '80s, I had a Modern Maid drop-in range that also depended on dead level countertops. Sadly, the rotten son-of-a-seagull contractor did not heed the installation instructions, did not listen to me, and did not make good on his flub.

I spent a number of years where I had sauteeing problems stemming from oil or butter puddling up on the low side of a pan - while the high side was dry.
 
I got a P7 drop in from my sisters house, and installed it at my partners house many years ago....and it had the rotisserie, which was outstanding, the rack mounted to the broil pan, and you opened this little port hole in the back, and slid into place.....excellent for chicken or a roast!....one of those things I wish I had taken with us, even if just for that feature alone!
 
Not to change the topic

Yogitunes you are right. My first range was a Gibson and the rotisserie was an option I installed. Sounds like a similar setup. You are right....it really worked well. Wish I had it today!
 
its just so typical of todays machines to do away with such useful features.....

its one reason we go back to the vintage machines......electrical outlets, rotiserries, deepwells, full hood light, colorful and chrome!....now your cooking!

if you want to make a kitchen sparkle and stand out....this is the way to do it!
 
I wonder if the problems with getting drop-in stoves perfectly level is why they are uncommon today? It seems you would need an old-time craftsman doing your cabinet and countertop work to guarantee good results, and craftsmen like that are in short supply these days.
 
Drop In Ranges

The idea of a drop-in range came about because of cost. After the "tank" ranges of the 50's in the 60's housing boom builders wanted to be able to have a range as part of a "built in kitchen" Far from the price of a built in oven, and cooktop, the drop in was perfect. It had no sides and no drawer. Builders bought these for little over $100. The 27in. model was I believe unique to GE. While these are available I can't imagine why anyone would want them. I used to tell people with a 30 in opening to saw out the base cabinet and put in a free standing range.
The 27" GE owners had no choice but to buy another or remodel.
 
Doug (retropia):

The out-of-level condition in that St. Charles kitchen was particularly outrageous, because St. Charles' installation instructions would have made it easy to level the counter had That A**hole, as we came to call him, followed them.

St. Charles C-Line cabinets were intended to be finished with rubber cove base at the toe kicks. That meant you could shim the base cabinets to any extent necessary, and the cove base would cover the shimming.

However, once they were installed out-of-level, and the cove base, countertops and backsplashes installed, re-doing things to level the counter amounted to a complete de-installation and re-installation. The counters in that kitchen were one continuous U-shape of thirty-three front feet. It would have cost a fortune to correct the problem.

I will never again in my life permit anyone to install cabinets and countertops in a house of mine if I am not present.
 

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