Maytag 712 Nearly Stops During Spray Rinse (Revisited)

[yogitunes]

if you gut the insides of an anti-siphon valve, water will shoot out the top 4 holes during draining....the internals are there to keep this from happening during pump out, and to allow air to enter once pressure is released....

heres a vid for you Ralph as to what this valve looks like.....actually you could disconnect the hose from the siphon valve, and pull that hose through the bottom access port and connect your drain hose to that with a simple fitting and two clamps...direct from the pump.....easy as pie

 

[Unimatic1140]

Remove the siphon break and

Yes just go to the hardware store or home depot and get a hose barb and 3 screw clamps, either straight or 90 degree angle hose barb will work. The Maytag hose is large either 3/4" or 1" barb size I believe.

 

[rp2813]

Thanks for all of the helpful suggestions!

So just to clarify, if I substitute a PVC fitting for the valve, I can leave the drain hose arrangement as is?

I'll take off the back and have a look at things first. I think the ID of the drain hose is 3/4" based on the size of the aluminum hook I'm using, but will double check.

 

[good-shepherd]

Quick belt/motor carriage test

Drain hose issues aside.

To test for belt or motor carriage problems remove the front panel and apply outward pressure to the motor carriage with you foot when washer has one of its slow downs. (Be careful of the spinning transmission).

If the speed picks up when pressure is applied you've isolated at least one of the problems; belt slippage, weak or broken slide springs or a binding slide.

Some people put an extra third spring on the motor slide. Also, check for belt glaze on the pulley.

 

[rp2813]

OK, so I got a 1" barbed elbow but hit a snag.

 

The section of the drain hose that the anti-siphon valve fits into points straight up.  This means that when the barbed elbow is installed, it points straight out the back, which creates an issue with the exterior portion of the drain hose because it doesn't have a bend molded into it where it fits onto the protruding end of the elbow.  I would need to add another elbow in order to facilitate aiming the exterior section of the drain hose either down or sideways.

 

 So, for now I've put things back the way they were so I can at least still use the machine.  I would need to fit an additional elbow off the inside drain hose, maybe by clamping on a stub of drain hose to connect both elbows.  I don't know if there's enough clearance inside the cabinet to hide all of that rigging.  Might that be worth trying or would I just be creating another reason for the spinning to slow down?  Any other suggestions?

 

Another point of concern is that I was surprised to find that where the valve fits into the inside hose, there is no adjustable clamp.  There's a band around the hose less than an inch from the end, but the valve just shoves into the hose and that's that.  It's a tight fit, and that seems to be enough to prevent any leakage.  That's fine if the valve is used, but the barbed elbow is a very loose fit.  I presume adding a clamp might resolve that issue, but I'm a little skeptical because the elbow fits snugly into the exterior portion of the hose.  Do the two hose segments have different inside diameters?

 

[Sudster]

Can you post some pictures of your machine & drain hose setup ? That original drain loop line picture is confusing . [this post was last edited: 12/18/2020-19:23]

 

[qsd-dan]

I'd still recommend finding and cannibalizing a drain hose setup from an older machine. Too many dips, valleys, twists, turns, and right angles will affect pump out performance. The previous hose routing simply runs straight back from the pump and up, which ideal and probably the reason Maytag went back to that design by the mid to late 90's. The older drain hose is also considerably longer than the siphon valve design you currently have and should work with you awkward setup without any lengthening modifications.

 

[rp2813]

Thanks for the picture Dan.  I've been considering that option from the beginning but thought I could get away with an after market hose.  Then I saw the picture and realized my lower access plate doesn't have the oblong cutout.  This means I'll have to find a donor machine for both the hose and the plate.

 

In the meantime, I'll keep using the factory arrangement.  The new belt has helped with that.

 

[yogitunes]

keep it simple.....

remove and toss that pinch clamp at the anti-siphon valve connection.....

remove the lower panel.....tape it off to the side, you dont actually need it, or find a slotted replacement....if you want, just cut a hole in it....

in any case, slide the hose from the pump out that bottom hole....using a straight connector and a few clamps, slide your current drain hose on there....and done!...

you really dont have to cut anything....but there is the option of cutting the hose close to the cabinet and attaching the "L" you already have....or find another piece of hose to make this connection.....and continue from there....

it can be done a number of different ways....best to keep it simple....

 

[rp2813]

That's another good suggestion Martin!  I think the key factor is whether the bend in the inside hose section would end up outside of the machine.  It might require an extension at the pump, so that would mean two straight connectors.  I'll take a look at things and decide how to go at this. 

 

[yogitunes]

or you could purchase a piece of hose to connect from the pump to outside the machine, and then connect the "L", and the drain hose....

note too, there may be a chance you might here some cavitation from the drain hose with a straight run...some units did it, some did not....could be how the hose is laying...

keep us posted