Maytag A712 - Calling all experts! Help w/ troubleshooting

[sarat]

Hi all! After many months of hunting & waiting I finally found a matching set of Maytags - Washer model A712. I didn't do a full run through cycle there because quite frankly it didn't matter - I was getting the set even if not fully functional. I've done some run through cycles on empty but I can't seem to get the water to drain AND it goes straight into the next cycle on its own. Are these two separate issues or is one causing the other? If so, can anyone assist me on troubleshooting? Many thanks for any assistance.

 

[repair-man]

It's only one problem

The timer will run right through the OFF segment and start the next cycle if the water level switch is satisfied at the end of spin. Problem should be minor. Worst case is a new pump but could be a belt or obstruction. If it sat unused for a long time the pump pulley might just need a little help by hand to get moving again.

 

[sarat]

Thank you so much for taking the time to answer. You're right, it sat for about six months in someone's garage. Can you tell me where I can locate the pump / pump pulley? Thank you again.

 

[wayupnorth]

Those Maytag pumps are in the right side front with motor in left side front. It might be best to pull the front panel off with the 2 screws and clips and you can see just what your problem is. One of our members posted a video, I know its on you tube of the Maytag 906 going thru a complete cycle and the inner workings. Everything below the console is the same thru the mid 80's other than the capacity.

 

[d-jones]

Just a thought

When you say you can't get the water to drain, is the washer attempting a spin cycle? These machines have reversing motors, so during agitation the motor turns one way, then during spin it turns the other way. The duration of the spin cycle is controlled by the timer, so if the motor isn't reversing the washer would appear to do nothing for a spell as the timer continued to advance until the spin time was used up. Then since the water hadn't drained out the fill level selector switch contacts would still be closed and the timer would continue on with the rinse cycle agitation.

 

The plastic Maytag pumps are pretty bullet proof so it's hard to imagine one seizing up unless some foreign object got inside and jammed it. Also noteworthy is that pump is in constant motion during agitation and spin. If it truly is seized up you would likely smell and hear something as the belt is dragged across the stationary pulley - that is unless the belt is missing altogether. I suppose that's also worth looking into.

[this post was last edited: 8/15/2016-02:22]

 

[mrb627]

Pump Belt Missing?

It is also possible that the pump belt is missing altogether. I'd verify that first, then make sure the pump pulley turns freely in both directions...

Malcolm

 

[sarat]

Well I called an appliance repair place. It is the drain pump. Diagnostic, repair & taxes comes to a prickly $282. He said timer looked fine & belts were in good shape, etc, etc, so I guess I'll bite the bullet & pay $200+ for labor on a $70 part. Still yet, no regrets. I've been wanting this set for years. He will be back Wed to repair as he has to order the part. Thanks for all the help and advice

 

[wayupnorth]

Hopefully, while your repair guy is there you can see the insides of the machine and can understand how it works.

 

[rp2813]

How many hours should it take a professional to R&R the pump?  $200 seems like a lot for labor.

 

[sarat]

Agree. Probably won't take 15-25 minutes... It's a perk of being female. I know I'm getting hosed but not in a position to do anything about it.

 

[sarat]

Hi guys, another Q. How do I remove the agitator? There's a tiny hole on the wide part of the base of the agitator but I can't imagine a screw being down in it? And I don't see a screw inside the agitator after I remove the fabric softener. Thoughts? Thank you!

 

[combo52]

Pump Replacement For A MT DC Washer

Here in The DC Area we would charge $72 for the Service Call, $22 for 15 minutes of labor and $42 for a new water pump and $20 for a used one with a one year warranty on parts and labor.

 

Often big cities are the least expensive places to buy things or get them fixed.

 

[repair-man]

We would be pretty close to those prices. Our service call is a little less ($60) but I think the pump does sell for closer to $70. So about $150 total repair. $270 seems unreasonable in my opinion.

 

[d-jones]

Sara

If your agitator has no set screw on the side of the barrel then you remove it by pulling it straight up. There is a rubber stop ring mounted below the splines on the steel shaft that the agitator sits on and that is generally all that holds it in place. The stop ring has a slightly larger diameter than the bottom of the agitator so you'll need to pull up firmly to get it to compress enough to let the agitator slip past. Unfortunately, depending on how old the stop ring is it may have hardened up a bit with age making this potentially very difficult.

 

As to the little hole in the agitators skirt that you mentioned, by design the agitator will trap an air pocket underneath it as the tub fills with water. That little hole simply allows some of the air to bleed out so that the air pocket is no larger than needed.

 

 

 

[sarat]

Thank you d-jones. There was indeed a screw hidden on the side of the agitator underneath where the lint filter sits. Unscrewed it and lifted it off with ease. There was no rubber anything to be found. Just the steel post. Should I order a stop ring or does it matter? Thanks again.

 

[combo52]

MT DC Agitators

Hi the washers with a screw to hold the agitator in place do not use a rubber O ring.

 

Maytag went to the screw to hold the agitator in place because the older machines that only used a rubber O ring the agitators would occasionally fly off the post during the spin cycle and cause injury or other washer damage.