Maytag MVWP575GW - How to Get Hot Tap Water Wash

Automatic Washer - The world's coolest Washing Machines, Dryers and Dishwashers

Help Support :

 
Seems the reasonable workaround for your temp issue is manual control by way of a Y-connector on a single tap with hot/cold faucets, or whatever other arrangement you could muster-up.  That would feed your choice of mixed temperature to both the hot and cold valves so that's what'd flow in regardless of which valve is active.
 
For those who do not know me, I do have some technical skills. I have installed custom firmware on my router, Kindles, phones, and more. I can install stuff like dishwashers, ceiling fans, etc. I am great at problem-solving issues with computers and have fixed many. With Google or YouTube, I have been able to fix many things. So far I have not soldered anything. Maybe I can learn.

However, I did want to add this for anyone else reading. I do not know if my thermistor is working correctly. At some point, the setup I had was no longer working. I do not check the water temperature every time I do the load. Was it my setup? Was it the temperature of the room? The house AC is 80+. I know the addon room with no insulation and not much ventilation is hotter. Is the user manual and Tech sheet for this washer actually for this washer (or did they borrow info from the commercial line and not bother to update for the changes to this particular washer)? The ATC does not seem to apply for the "Hot" or "Warm" in the way it I have read it does with other HE machines, yet the manual clearly states wash temperatures will be cooler. It seems like the difference is more dependent on the ground water temp. Some have reported cooler wash temperatures.

I had read in the manual that, "Fault is displayed when washer detects water temperature 105°F (41°C) or higher during rinse cycle." It doesn't say anything about the wash cycle, so I tried hooking only a hot and cold line to the cold inlet valve and a hot to the hot inlet valve. I put the washer on "tap cold" and ran tap hot at 120 degrees F. My thermistor was in its correct location. Not only did I not get an error code for the wash cycle, but I did not get an error code for the rinse cycle either. I also checked for error codes going into the diagnostic mode.

I also read in another location, "NOTE: Most thermistor errors are a result of the resistor being out of range. If the temperature thermistor malfunctions, the
washer will default to pre-programmed wash settings." Is it possible that my washer is operating in "pre-programmed wash settings" and not with ATC because this thermistor may not be working. I do not have an Ohm meter to test.

Anyway, I don't expect answers to this. I felt the need to come back and correct this part. Anyone else trying anything may not have the same results I did because I really am not sure if my thermistor is working correctly or not.

However, it looks like I can run hot to hot and a mixed line to the cold inlet valve with some shutoffs designed for indoor and hot water use to solve my issue.

Thanks again.
 
Oops. One more thing...

Oops. Forgot to add. If I get an error in the future with this setup, I will try relocating the thermistor to where it senses the air instead of water temp.
 
I have 2 different washers where the thermistor have gone bad. One is Maytag that won't give hot water most of the time. Switches on and off real quick and stays cold most times when it is on hot fill, so water is basically cold in the tub. The other is a Frigidaire that when on hot fill it is totally hot fill. It did not used to be like that, was always a mix of hot and cold opening occasionally. So these do go bad, just like any other part in a washing machine.

Jon
 

Latest posts

Back
Top