Why did older Maytag DWs not run the heater during the main wash? I know there were models without heaters, but those that had them never ran them during the main wash on their lower end models.
Maytag no heat in main wash
- Thread starter Chetlaham
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Good Question, Maytag played all kinds of games trying to have lower operating costs, If you look at cycle charts for MT DWs in the 1980s [ all the same year ] they had at least three different major cycle variations for a normal wash cycle regarding number of water changes, cycle times and heater use and any possible temperature holds.
It was like you were looking at charts for three different brands, better performance was differently a Step-Up feature on MT DWs.
John L.
It was like you were looking at charts for three different brands, better performance was differently a Step-Up feature on MT DWs.
John L.
The oldest MT DWs with the figure 8 filter and heating element ran the heater all through the 18 minute wash and had complaints about severe etching of glasses, especially in areas with soft water.
I thought energy was cheap back then?
Its interesting though- not sure why- but I remember many years ago always seeing old Maytag DWs in homes with oil heat. Basically a boiler that was always set 180*, often there was a tempering valve when feeding over to shower fixtures. The area had a Maytag dealer too, so I guess it just worked out in that market niche.
And yahhh I noticed that too, main wash increases on high end models. I think its cruel to do that and helped tarnish the Maytag reputation. More people buy BOL and MOL, especially back in the day when DW were new and high priced so having a short main-wash without heat just forced others to buy from others like Whirlpool who did not go to such great lengths to force TOL.
Its interesting though- not sure why- but I remember many years ago always seeing old Maytag DWs in homes with oil heat. Basically a boiler that was always set 180*, often there was a tempering valve when feeding over to shower fixtures. The area had a Maytag dealer too, so I guess it just worked out in that market niche.
And yahhh I noticed that too, main wash increases on high end models. I think its cruel to do that and helped tarnish the Maytag reputation. More people buy BOL and MOL, especially back in the day when DW were new and high priced so having a short main-wash without heat just forced others to buy from others like Whirlpool who did not go to such great lengths to force TOL.
Energy has not been cheap since the early 70s when the energy embargo by the oil-producing nations of the middle east against the nations that supported Israel in the 1973 caused prices to soar. Gas lines were long. Oil heated homes could not be heated to warmer than 65 or 68 during the day and had to be kept cooler at night. Dishwashers would start offering drying without heat. Cheap energy was never cheap. We are still discovering energy's true costs.
I know, but having to keep a water heater to 180* ends up being more energy. I don't grasp what Maytag was thinking.
Try not thinking, just whoring after Department of Energy stars.
I know, but having to keep a water heater to 180* ends up being more energy. I don't grasp what Maytag was thinking.
Never mind, double post.
But then why do their TOL models run the heater?
But then why do their TOL models run the heater?
Anyone know what year heat was finally added to the mainwash in the BOLs and MOLs?
potatochips
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I have a service manual from the late late 80s before they stopped reverse rack production and moved to the DWU machines, it shows multiple versions of main wash heating, and named them different features like Sani Wash, Temp Boost, or Power Boost. All had different functions like a thermo hold to 140F, or just a timed section in the wash, or a heat on at all parts of the cycle. For the most part you had to spend the money and buy a machine that had a water heat option.
On my WU902 I jumpered the Power Boost switch as it used to extend the wash to 26 minutes AND do a thermo hold to 140F, which is too long to me as the main wash goes for almost 35+ mins. So by jumpering the switch it still does a thermo hold but doent extend the main wash to 26 minutes.
On my WU902 I jumpered the Power Boost switch as it used to extend the wash to 26 minutes AND do a thermo hold to 140F, which is too long to me as the main wash goes for almost 35+ mins. So by jumpering the switch it still does a thermo hold but doent extend the main wash to 26 minutes.
Can you email the manual?
Who would or even could keep a domestic water heater at 180F? Not only is that unsafe, but you would need tempering valves for every faucet. I'm not sure that even a dishwasher fill valve would not be harmed by water this hot. If you have lower temperature water, why not use a modern enzyme detergent and whatever extended time wash cycle your machine might offer.
Homes with oil fired boilers and no separate storage tanks.
Homes With Oil Fired Hot Water Heat
That also heated the domestic hot water, ALWAYS had a thermostatic tempering valve to control domestic hot water temps, sometimes boilers have to run at more than 200F to properly heat the house and it is down right deadly to ever let domestic water reach temps over 140F.
John L.
That also heated the domestic hot water, ALWAYS had a thermostatic tempering valve to control domestic hot water temps, sometimes boilers have to run at more than 200F to properly heat the house and it is down right deadly to ever let domestic water reach temps over 140F.
John L.
Even if the boiler heated the domestic hot water with a coil that used boiler water to heat the domestic hot water so that the two never touched?
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I grew up in a house that had it's original 1927 Thatcher coal-fired steam boiler which was converted to oil with a pre-WWII Timken rotary oil burner. We kids learned at a very early age that the hot water at the tap was HOT!
Here's a picture of the same boiler, shown without the oil burner conversion:
Here's a picture of the same boiler, shown without the oil burner conversion:
Around here many did not have a tempering valves or only supplying faucets. Thermostat regulated to about 180*. Yes the water was that hot.
@tomturbomatic: Ideally or with homes built today you would have a separate storage tank where the boiler water is pumped through a coil inside the tank. A thermostat is present which triggers the pump and burner cutting off when the right temp is reached. For what ever reason decades past it was very popular in my area to just take a Weil Mclain and use the boiler for both domestic hot water and hot water basebaord always keeping the jacket at 180* year round.
I have no idea if this is true or not as I am not an HVAC tech or expert in HVAC but was told the reason this was done was because if the boiler is allowed to cool down frequently the seals could start to leak over time.
@tomturbomatic: Ideally or with homes built today you would have a separate storage tank where the boiler water is pumped through a coil inside the tank. A thermostat is present which triggers the pump and burner cutting off when the right temp is reached. For what ever reason decades past it was very popular in my area to just take a Weil Mclain and use the boiler for both domestic hot water and hot water basebaord always keeping the jacket at 180* year round.
I have no idea if this is true or not as I am not an HVAC tech or expert in HVAC but was told the reason this was done was because if the boiler is allowed to cool down frequently the seals could start to leak over time.
And oh- yes- the when the boiler is directly feeding the home with hot water I think there was an "isolation" coil separating the domestic hot water from the actual boiler water.
