MAYTAG TWO-BELT TRANSMISSION QUESTION

[jwpate]

The new style mounting stems use T20 size thorx heads. Tightening the set screw down one can feel first contact with the transmission case threads. Then continue to crush through the threads until feeling greater resistance as the screw reaches the case aluminum. Stop there, and you will find that there are about three threads still showing on the set screw - as seen here.

 

[jwpate]

Mount the inner tub onto the cork surface in the previous image. Center it as best you can inside the outer tub, place the load-spreading washer, and hand tighten the reverse thread nut. Then again a few light hammer blows to take out all slack..

Next, I lubricated the splines seen here and those inside the agitator with silicone grease and mounted the agitator. Put in the retainer screw after treating it to a new O-ring.

 

[jwpate]

I used a new triangular seal for the tub cover, and lubricated both the seal, the outer tub lip, and the tub cover outer surface down about an inch or so with DC 111. Then fitted the tub cover in place with seal and stainless V-clamp. The tightening nut/bolt segments of the clamps I shifted to diagonal positions 8-2 instead of the original 10-4 positions. Otherwise all seems well. I just set the clamps reasonably firm then adjusted the tub cover as high as I could without it contacting the top cover while shaking the tubs around using the agitator stem. Then fully tightened the clamps.

The gap, seen at the end of the pointer worked out to be much less than before, and is about the thickness of a paint-stirring stick. We shall see how it works in actual operation.

This is a good time too for adjusting the main spring tensions. I tightened them such that after shaking the tubs around, they settle back generally centered in the top cover opening, but with a slight bias (maybe 1/16 inch) toward the front and away from the unbalance switch.

 

[mayfan69]

Outstanding

Hi James

I've been reading this thread with a lot of interest: congratulations on taking so much care and attention to detail on this restoration.

I'm sure your Maytag will give at least another 20-30 years of faithful service.

Cheers
Leon

 

[akronman]

Wow

This is one of the all-time professional rebuilds, and well documented. All I ever do is fix what's broke, seal up leaks, and de-rust and repaint. This, on the other hand, is as exact and complete as the engineers at the factory.

Keep up the good work and the pics and posts. Congratulations on your efforts and success!

 

[jwpate]

Thanks for such encouraging comments fellows, and I am just amazed to see we have a world wide interest in this forum. Australians with an interest in our old MAYTAG machines, I would have never guessed it.

But back to the effort, and I have arrived at the motor replacement. I took the time to carefully map out a diagram of the hook-up wires, but it isn't even needed. Each of the connections is labeled on the motor, and the wires have connection numbers on them.

 

[jwpate]

Next will be the water pump, and here I hit a problem. That old hose from the outer tub is far beyond its prime and so hard and brittle I would never trust it.

The Whirlpool certified replacement part is, as seen in the photo, too short for the job. That 1 1/4 inch gap makes the hose worthless to me. Can't return it either for it was outside its plastic bag before I caught the discrepancy with it. There are two part numbers listed for this hose on the MAYTAG site, and this item is the second number listed, 2-13045. Perhaps the other, earlier number, 2-12989 is available from another supplier. Hope so, and will start looking later today.

 

[jwpate]

This photo shows the drain hose which I have been using for the past four years or so, connecting the washer to the house plumbing. It was never a MAYTAG hose, but just a stock item at Home Depot.

And it was always stiff, with a tendency to flatten and pinch off at every bend. That explains the reason for all those metal clamps to prevent it doing so.

It just may work here though, with the U-bend end connecting to the tub drain. I will cut a section and try to substitute it.

 

[jwpate]

Well it will do, at least for a while. And it is an easy job to replace it. If unable to locate the correct molded hose for this machine I shall use a length of silicone hose, which can easily make those bends without any problem.

This substitute fit up well to the tub, but was too small and stiff to go on the pump. I had to soften it up with a heat gun before I was able to persuade it to cooperate. Even then It took that extra clamp to keep it from crimping off flat.

 

[jwpate]

Well it will do, at least for a while. And it is an easy job to replace it. If unable to locate the correct molded hose for this machine I shall use a length of silicone hose, which can easily make those bends without any problem.

This substitute fit up well to the tub, but was too small and stiff to go on the pump. I had to soften it up with a heat gun before I was able to persuade it to cooperate. Even then It took that extra clamp to keep it from crimping off flat.

 

[jwpate]

So now I can move on to these items. Lubricate the helix threads in the pulley, use a wheel bearing grease to pack the little brake rotor bearing, and tilt the machine back exposing the underside.

 

[jwpate]

Screw the helix pulley on clockwise and check the feel as it releases the brake, engages the clutch washers and begins to turn the transmission and inner tub. Then back off and develop a feel for the point where the brake assembly is first made contact with. From that point, place the stop lug (flat side up) on a set of splines which will provide for between 1/4 and 3/8 inch of free play. I set it at the middle of that range - 5/16 inch.

When it is set to suit you, replace the special locking washer and retaining screw. Place the rubber cover over the lot.

 

[jwpate]

Now position the new drive belts and adjust the pump belt such that when pinching the belt runs together at the mid point until the motor slide just begins to react, you will have 1/4 inch or less gap between the pinched belt sections. Tighten up the pump screws to secure this adjustment.

 

[jwpate]

Now we are into the testing phase........the moment of truth!

First I connected up the water inlet hoses and the drain hose, then plugged her in.

First I selected spin cycle and let the machine spin dry for about 4-5 minutes. The spin was wonderfully quiet and smooth. Just as one should expect, I suppose, but was a real relief for me.

Now time to add water, so first I thought it best to also replace that rain shield over the motor.

 

[jwpate]

Now I just set it for low load, cold water and let her rip.

Here the lid switch has been jury-rigged so we can see in. Ran it a full cycle just to see that all the controls and switches have survived my attentions. All seems well. Checked carefully for leaks and found none, so put back the front cover.

Since then, it has been in continuous service and is now on the forth load. This will continue also through the next day or so, as there is a great pile of laundry waiting.

And on that happy note I shall end this thread. Once again I would like to thank each member for following along and offering suggestions. Special thanks to beekeyknee and redcarpetdrew.

It is a great forum, and I thank you all for the assistance.

James

 

[jetcone]

Wonderful thread

it was so much fun following your technique and attention to detail. You did your machine proud, its a beautiful restoration.

Congratulations and thank you for sharing, I know along with other members here how much extra effort that takes.

 

 

jet

 

 

[beekeyknee]

Hi James,

Congratulations. I could tell from early on that you were up to the task and one of those people that doesn't give up. It looks good. Fill us in a bit. Does the machine seem to run better and quieter than before? Any other details?

I trust you took the screw plug out of the front of that pump and gave it a good dose of Zoom-Spout oil?

B.

 

[swestoyz]

James - I've been waiting with anticipation for your restoration to finish, and I'm glad everything went off without a hitch!  I'll echo Jon's sentiments in that your accomplishments have resulted in quite a beautiful restoration. 

 

I'll be really curious to hear how the power coating holds up after a year or so of washing.  This could be a nice alternative for preserving outer tubs and such.

 

Again, way to go!

 

Ben

[this post was last edited: 2/12/2014-13:45]

 

[jwpate]

<span style="font-size: medium;">                                                                      .........<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>SLOSHING, SLOSHING, SLOSHING................</span>

<span style="font-size: medium;">                                                                        .........KEEP THEM LOADS A'WASHING.................</span>

 

<span style="font-size: small;">And I understand we are now on the eighth large load, and counting.  There was naturally a small mountain of sheets, clothing, towels and so forth waiting for this machine to be back in operation once again.  Today it has been as busy as a laundromat machine.  I believe we are now on the final load though.</span>

 

<span style="font-size: small;">All is well with the MAYTAG, it is smooth and quiet just as if it were new and we were back in 1986.  The single most noticeable improvement is related to the spin cycle.  Once again the towels come out of the machine only damp, just as they should do.</span>

 

<span style="font-size: small;">Yes Brian, I did lubricate that pump shaft and it was done with turbine oil. </span>

 

[redcarpetdrew]

BRAVO!

I stand and doff my Maytag hat to you and one of, if not THE most complete and awe inspiring resto's I've ever seen! That Maytag should be good for at least 17-27 years easy! I am simply in awe!

RCD