MAYTAG TWO-BELT TRANSMISSION QUESTION

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BRAVO!

I stand and doff my Maytag hat to you and one of, if not THE most complete and awe inspiring resto's I've ever seen! That Maytag should be good for at least 17-27 years easy! I am simply in awe!

RCD
 
Just wondering about the spin clutch...

What type of clutch is it? Multiple spin drains would really wear out a regular one.
 
The Dependable Care spin clutch.

There really isn't a spin clutch as you would imagine it. On the two belt system, the pump belt is designed to get up to speed right away to start the pump out process. On the other hand, the drive belt from the motor to the trans pulley is designed to 'slip' at the motor pulley. So, when the Maytag goes into spin, the pump starts draining the water out right away while the tub starts to spin slowly, gaining speed, giving time for the load to empty providing less stress on the mechanism or 'clutching'...

The belts are designed to slip without premature wear out. One problem I see frequently is when the homeowner tries to replace the Maytag designed belts with plain automotive belts, which are NOT designed to slip. The drive belt tries to spin the full tub up to speed right away, causing belt damage or cause the motor to kick out on overload or possibly even be damaged from the stress.

Plain as mud, right?

RCD
 
There is a spin clutch and it's right there in the first photo of this thread. It's inside the transmission and consists of one stationary washer disc and one rotating washer disc. When the drive pulley rotates and climbs the transmission input shaft the pulley radial bearing pushes up on and releases the brake while simultaneously pulling down on the shaft which squeezes the two clutch discs together. These will initially slip in addition to the belt slipping as the tub comes up to speed.
 
MT 2 Belt Spin Clutch In The Transmission ?

The two disk washers under the pinion gear do not slip as the washers tub is coming up to speed while draining. The steel and copper washers are thrust washers that engage quickly and very completely as soon as the pinon gear pulls and the main drive pulley starts turning clockwise. If you have two people one can hold the transmission stationary while the other tries to turn the main drive pulley, it does not slip.

John L.
 
Yes, thanks for that correction. The service manuals list them as steel and bronze clutch washers that take two to three rotations before the oil is squeezed out from between them and they lock up. That's rotations of the input shaft, not necessarily the tub as the tub isn't going to do much movement until that clutch is locked up. Sorry for the misinformation, I hate doing that.
 
OK...

So is that what's on my twin tub? It's really smooth and doesn't have much wear on it so is it that type of belt? It's over 30 years old, so if it's an automotive belt, it would always be in a bind. I pulled the tensioner strip all the way and it slipped a little over a decent amount of tension.
 
Something I forgot to add...

That rebuild/restoration is AMAZING! I don't think I could have done that. Your metal work is INCREDIBLE! Keep up the good work!
 
>> Trying to figure out what is different about the clamp shown on the right.

The difference is in how the tail end of the hose clamp is manufactured.

The clamp type on the left is more common, and has slots stamped all the way through the metal - they are holes that you can see through. The worm gear teeth engage these slots.

The clamp type on the right is different in that the stamping doesn't go all the way through - instead, it forms the metal into ridges. There are no holes, and you can't see through it. The worm gear teeth engage these ridges when you tighten the clamp.

The issue: With the clamp type on the left, what happens is that over time, especially if over-tightened, the rubber hose will begin to squish out through those holes. When you remove the clamp, it will leave a distinct impression of where the clamp had been, and sometimes the rubber will have been damaged. There are also times where the worm gear teeth will slice slightly into the top of the rubber hose through the band. The style on the right aren't always perfectly smooth (some are better than others), but theoretically, they would lessen this distortion of the hose and eliminate the small cuts.

There are lots of other ways around this issue - some worm clamps have an extra strip of smooth metal around the inside which guards the hose from those slots. Then there are T-Bolt hose clamps, the nut-and-bolt strap style, spring clamps, etc. Maytag used some nice hose clamps from the factory (not sure what that style is called off-hand), but later parts kits all substitute the cheaper worm drive clamps.

(re-attaching the original image for reference)

lowefficiency-2019080411345902318_1.jpg
 
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