Miele W1065

[launderess]

Original owner long ago lost the shipping bolts for my machine. Had to order a new set (very dear), and have them shipped down to the seller, who very nicely offered to insert/prepare the unit for freight pick-up.

When ordering the shipping bolts, Miele's tech told many, many times either the Miele pepole themselves doing the installation, or Miele authorised installers take the shipping bolts away with them after work is done. This can cause problems later if the owners wish to shift the machine or sell it on, because it means they now must pay for something which came "free" with the unit. My shipping bolts are back in their original shippping box, saved in case of a move.

Creda Splitter:

Happy to see you won the item! Atta boy! Look forward to seeing if the splitter works out.

L.

 

[sudsmaster]

My assumption has been that since both machines spin to top speed with load with no balance problems, that nothing major was dislocated in the move even without shipping bolts. My gut feeling is that they are needed when being handled by commercial shippers, who may treat a crated appliance with all the loving care of an airline baggage handler, but for gentle homeowner moves with no sudden jolts, they may not be required.

Will know more when the machines expose their innards.

 

[brisnat81]

Exposing the innards

Hi Suds,

Both machines are designed to be serviced from the front for the most part.

There should be a screw on either side of the lid, 3 bolts around the door opening, and a few screws around the detergent drawer.

The lid is hinged and once the screws are removed it should just lift up.

The door boot, may or may not be held in place with a wire ring and a spring. If there is no wire ring, then it is sandwiched between the outer door and the inner frame.

Once you remove the screws around the detergent dispenser and the bolts around the door, the front panel should be hinged on the right and just swing open.

One word of warning, two out of four old machines that I've opened, I've never been able to get to seal properly again without a new door boot. Just something to keep in mind before you break in

Also, all Australian and Euro machines up until about 10 years ago, all had brush motors. Now all machines other than the TOL ones still have brush motors. I've got the motor out of a W1065 here, I'll try and take some pictures tonight to show you where they go. Unfortunately though, you need to remove the motor from the machine to change them, and its a bear of a job.

I hope this helps.

Regards
Nathan

 

[launderess]

Nathan, strange you state that the 1065 has motor brushes. When I contacted Miele tech support/parts department about my 1070, specifically asked if the machine has brushes in the motor ( was concerned about them wearing out and parts being NLA), and the tech went up and down the parts list/diagrams and repeatedly told me that my unit did NOT have brushes.

Maybe just caught one tech on a off day, will call again and pose the same question.

L.

 

[launderess]

New Boot

Ordered one for my 1070, before it arrived, just in case the one with the machine was rotted, and was so glad I did because the thing was totally gross. Took the nice young lad doing the install better part of 20 mins or so to fit the new boot on. Required lots of tugging and stretching from what one could see, but guess that is why the thing is water tight.

Cannot remember what the new boot cost, but like all things Miele, it was not cheap. Think still have the invoice somewhere.

L.

 

[sudsmaster]

Nathan,

Thanks for your post. Too bad I didn't read it until now, but no worries. I spent the better part of the evening taking apart the 1918, and discovered the same fact you mention: that the front panel is hinged on the right, and the lid easily slides off after you pull the two screws on either side.

The 1918 is squeaky clean; there's reason to believe it never saw much use, but was, rather, an object of study at a local household products company's R&D labs. In any case, I tightened up a few fasteners while I was in the process, and satisfied myself that the pump wasn't loose. After I got it all buttoned up, I ran a mixed load and observed that the bottom panel/pan is responsible for most if not all of the rattling noise during drains. No problems with leaks after closing the front panel, but, then, I didn't pull the boot off the outer tub.

I picked up a remote infrared thermometer over the weekend. I observed that the 1918 runs a bit cooler than the dial would indicate. At 140F dial selection, the actual temp is between 132F and 136F. In contrast, the 1065 got to a real 200F.

I was thinking the most direct route to the motor would be if one were to tip the machine on its back, and the pull the bottom pan. Otherwise one would have to pull the boot, inner drum and outer tub, etc, which certainly would be a bear since it weighs so darn much.

I agree with those who say the Miele is very well built. Not only is the entire outer cabinet thick porcelain coated steel, but the internal struts braces etc are also porcelain coated steel

 

[aamassther]

Well, California seems to be a mecca for used Miele these days...
Used W1070 and matching dryer.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Miele-Washer-an...ryZ71257QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

 

[sudsmaster]

Caveat Emptor...

"Washer timer sticks on rinse cycle and requires a manual "click" of the dial. All else working. Sold as is. "

 

[launderess]

Saw that auction earlier,dryer looks interesting. From the seller's tone, don't expect him to let go of these units for "a song". The remark "can these units down to the Salvation Army ... and take the tax write-off", says quite allot. Far as one is concerned he can haul his tat anywhere he choses and good luck. Da noive, a washing machine with a faulty timer that will cost probably as much if not more than what the seller is trying to flog the washer for in terms of parts and labour; assuming one does not do the work themselves. Even if one could do the work, parts have to come from Miele, and they are not always cheap.

L.

 

[sudsmaster]

Any washer that requires manual intervention is no longer an automatic washer in operation; and while I commend the seller for his honesty, I do think he's trying to capitalize on the Miele reputation without giving due consideration to the cost to the buyer.

For example, my 1065/1050 pair cost me $400, plus perhaps $40 for gas there and back (truck gets lousy mileage). Plus time. A new Miele capable of 190F runs for just under $2000, although I saw a clearance tag on one recently so it may be less as dealers are clearing discontinued stock. Anyway, let's say my 1065 needs a new motor. I understand the motor part alone is $850, not including labor. That's nearly 1/2 the price of a brand new Miele.

The same goes for so called classic reliable cars. They are only as reliable as the maintenance and repairs go. All machines eventually wear out and need major repairs - unless they are just left to sit, unused, and even then things like rubber, oil, grease, sealants, etc dry out or deteriorate despite the best of care. Heck, one can get a new 4.0 cu ft 110 volt Miele for $1600 ($1900 for the top of the line model). If the motor in my 1065 is bad, as in bad bearings, I'm prepared to try to rebuild it myself, as I have the skills and access to machining equipment to do a lot of stuff the normal owner wouldn't attempt. For me it's more of a collector's item. New timer/controller for the 1070 in the listing? Who knows? I'm guessing the part would start at $400.

 

[launderess]

Well, all this talk about descaling and cleaning up vintage Miele washing machines, made one think it was time to see what was goin on in my unit. So got out my cleaning supplies and decided to give Brunhilde a good going over.

First of all, as usual found nothing besides some lint in the coin trap. This is to be expected as one is quite careful about pockets, buttons and that sort of thing. Draining the bilge water out before opening the coin trap, produced muck filled and somewhat soapy water. The inside of the pump/coin trap area was had some muck and mould as well. Made note to oneself to swear off soap and non "HE" detergents from now on.

After cleaning everything up and out, gave the front of the washer including doors, every crack and nook a good wiping down with disenfectant cleaner. When all was put together fired up ole Brunhilde for boil wash with Miele descaler.

Those of you whose machines do not reach temps over 140F, much less 200F don't know the wonderful thrill a boil wash can bring! Steam rising from the detergent drawer, sounds of "boiling" water inside the machine. The smell of soaps/detergents and such wafting through the laundry as the machine goes about it's business.

 

[sudsmaster]

According to the MSDS, the product "Washer Magic" is 10% to 30% citric acid. Lemon juice is about 5% citric acid. Lime juice may be higher in citric acid than lemon juice. Assuming that Washer Magic is 20% citric acid, then it would take four times as much lemon or lime juice to equal its effect. A standard dose of Washer Magic is 24 oz. so it could take 98 oz of lemon/lime juice to equal its strength. In my 1065, I added about 12 oz of fresh lime juice (and that was a fair number of limes). Since I have a big tree, I could probably squeeze four times that amount, but I might have some concerns about other components (pectin etc) in the natural juice that might interfere with the cleaning action. It would smell nice, though.

When I dosed the machine with vinegar, I used 1/2 gallon, which is probably close to the organic acid concentration of the Washer Magic product. Plus, since the Miele only uses about 5 gallons of water per wash part of the cycle, one might expect that one could use less of the product to achieve a final concentration equal to that when it's used in a traditional top loader. But since the 1065 seems to be so loaded up with lime scale and mold I probably would use the entire 24 oz of the Washer Magic product.

It's funny. My remote sensing thermometer indicated that the 1065 reached a true 200F during its boil wash, but I didn't hear any "boiling" going on. When I added de-foamer, I did hear a sizzling sound as the suds disappeared during the pause of each tumble rotation. The lime juice sure did smell nice though, at that temp!

 

[launderess]

IIRC, packet states 250g.

Odd you don't hear any "boiling" sounds from your 1065. One hears sounds almost like what comes from inside a kettle before it begins to whistle.

 

[sudsmaster]

Correct, I found a UK listing for the descaler, says it's 250g.

Also says it's L2.99. That works out to perhaps $8. Way less than the $20.00 that Miele wants us to pay in the USA.

 

[sudsmaster]

Perhaps I mistook boiling sounds for subsiding suds sounds. Will have to run a 200F cycle with plain water at some point to see if there are any suds and if I can hear the boiling.

But first gonna tip the 1918 on its back to pull the bottom pan, see if I can quiet it down, and also to see if the pump and the main motors are accessible from there.

Other than the loud pump rattling the bottom pump, the 1918 seems to work fine. Also fixed the water supply and drain arrangement so that I can actually let the machine run unattended.