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brisnat81

Well-known member
Joined
May 5, 2004
Messages
2,244
Location
Brisbane Australia
Hi Guys,

A month ago, we were driving through a Town north of brisbane and as we went past, something in a Salvage shop caught my eye. Michael kindly agreed to go back, and in the Window was a Miele Washer and Dryer from 1978-1981 vintage.

After exercising my negotiating skills with him, I paid a deposit, and tomorrow I get to pick them up :)

They're both 4.5kg machines, the washer has a 43L (1.5 cubic Foot) drum and the dryer has a 110L (4.2 Cubic Foot)drum. The washer spins at 1100RPM which for the day is blazingly fast.

The one I'm getting isnt, but this was the first range where fully electronic controls were available. MieleRod in Sydney has the Electronic washer from this series.

For a 95deg C cottons wash, with prewash, its supposed to take 120minutes and uses a whopping 157L of water. The washer and dryer are both rated to 3.2KW or 13amps, which requires a 15amp 240V Powerpoint.
That cycle time is comparable to my new machine on a 95deg wash.

It has 7 Cycles:
Cottons Heavy Soil
Cottons Light Soil
Synthetics Heavy Soil
Synthetics Light Soil
Delicates
Woolens (Woolmark Approved)
Extra Prewash.

You can freely select the temp from cold to 95 degrees. The Electronic model uses an NTC to measure the temp, much like a modern machine. This one uses multiple thermostats.

The machine also has what it calls a graduated spin. It happens on all machines now, but obviously was rarity back then. The machine will stop spinning and tumble to stop the clothes getting plasted to the drum. Then it will spin again, and repeat the process.

It does 5 rinses on a cottons cycle.

The dryer is a condensor sensor dryer, it uses 80L of water per load. It has auto reverse to help tangling, Electronic Sensor drying with:
Extra Dry
Ready to Put Away
Non Iron
Hand Iron
Machine Iron

It has an adjustable End of cycle buzzer, 2 heat settings, and timed dry. A full load is supposed to take 80 minutes.

This is a Stacked matched pair, and I'm pretty sure that these would've been machine from the first series on offer when Miele started in Australia in 1980.

I'll hopefully get them hooked up tomorrow and take some more pictures.

PS The stickers on the machine are operating instructions, as they've been in holiday apartments for 25 years.

1-5-2006-14-18-25--brisnat81.jpg
 
Woohoo!

That is one beautiful set of machines! Bet you can't wait to get them up and running! How much laundyr have you saved up for the maiden washday with the old Miele? :-).

Keep us updated with pics! I love older Miele's. Try and get some videos too ;-)

All the best,

Jon
 
I have a weeks worth of washing to do, so probably about 5 loads.

I'm thinking that if it has the different tumbling patterns of the newer machines, it could make for a quite an entertaining video. Especially when the water level is 1/2 way up the door.

Lots of bright coloured towels. :)

Work has a new video camera, I may just have to take it home to try it out :D
 
The only thing about the older Mieles and the reason for the 5 high water level rinses is that they did not do much extracting until just before the final rinse. My W965 (not sure of number) was from the 90s and that's the way it worked on the normal wash. Miele was scared to death of suds lock during the spin, I guess. Now, the newer Mieles give good fast spins between the water changes. They must do a good job of rinsing. My admittedly less than full capacity loads do not cause my skin to itch or exhibit any signs of detergent allergy.
 
Tom,

The older Mieles have five rinses and they spin after the third, the fourth and (ofcourse) after the last rinse. The speed on the short spins after the third and fourth rinse is 800rpm. This was how a lot of the European frontloaders of that time worked albeit some had a lower speed. I guess fear of a sudslock could be the reason. I think the older Mieles do quite a good job at rinsing. Ofcourse a spin direct after the main wash and after all the rinses are more effective.

Nathan,

I love that washer. What model number is it? Is it a W423 or W431? Or even another number? Inquiring minds want to know. If this machines spins with 1100rpm then it must be one of the first Mieles to go over 1000rpm.

The dryer is interesting, but I'd rather not use a water cooled condenser dryer. That's a water guzzler! This was the last generation of those machines, the next line had air cooled condenser machines. Miele was actually one of the last to make the change from water cooled to air cooled. I guess they wanted to improve the performance of the air cooled dryers of that era. Even now Miele condenser dryers are better than other brands, in a recent consumer test Miele was the only condenser dryer that didn't leak moist air into the room where it was.

Question: There are two positions for whites/linens and also for perm. press. How are they called? Intensive? and? Hope to hear more about these machines!

Louis
 
W423

Hi Louis,

The Washer is a W423, The dryer is a T337K.

The 4 cottons/synthetic cycles are labeled as follows
Cottons Heavy Soil
Cottons Light Soil
Synthetics Heavy Soil
Synthetics Light Soil

I guess they figured that the world Intensive would scare away any woodbe Australian housewives trying to accept this new non TL technology :)

There are symbols that correspond to each cycle that you can match up with on the temperature dial.

With the amount of water it uses and the final spin speed, its rinsing performance would have to be at least acceptable.

That figure of 157, over 7 fills works out to 22 odd Litres per fill. Its amazing that the new one can manage to keep the consumption down to 47L.

The literature talks about the Ecconomy button being able to save 20% water, 15% soap, and 25% the time of the cycle. I'll be curious to see, if with modern detergent, the ecconomy cycle is all thats needed.

I'm curious to see if the different cycles have the different wash rythyms that the newer machines do, or whether they just tumble and soak for different amounts of time. It must be hard to use different wash rythyms without a computer.

I'm also curious to see if the Woolens cycle without the honeycomb drum does a high speed spin, like the new HC drum machines or wether it is a slow spin or even a rinse and hold.

I'm in a little bit of trouble about the dryer, as that was the reason that Michael agree'd that we could get both. I've been on a Water conserveration kick with BNE in the middle of the worst water shortages since reticulated water started.

It wont be a daily driver dryer, it'll be the when I feel like it dryer, and otherwise I'll use the non condensor dryer. Its all in the garge, so the hot air and humidity doesnt really matter.

We dont use the dryer very often, so it shouldnt be a problem.

As long as the rain lets up, we should pick them up this morning :)

Tom, I agree about the spins, I love how with 5 buckets of water, and high spins, I can get a full load of washing thats properly rinses. Its amazing what a high speed spin between rinses can do. I've found I tend to use a higher water level on the Minimum Iron cycle on the new machine, as without the interval spins, there tends to be some soap residue left.

Nathan
 
Rinsing in new machines

Talking about water consumtion: It's not as good as it sounds. 47 Liters aren't enugh. Our Consumer report rated a Miele 1.8, that's nearly a B! If I pay 1800 Bugs, I'd like to have the best rinsing performance. The spin cycles between the wash and rinse cycles are just to save water. Miele always didn't spin between the main wash and the first rinse. They had the opinion that the dirt could be pressed back into the fibres!This was in the early days of miele automatics. They had the " Zwei Laugen Verfahren" two suds cycle. 1.prewash, 2. main wash., 4 or five rinses and at least the final spin!
 
Nathan, I know this is going to sound like heresy, but I prefer washing my perma-press shirts and slacks in my single belt Kenmore Dual Tumble washer (the last model based on the old Westinghouse FL). Of course, I did adjust the water level switch so that it fills to levels used in the old 3 belt Westinghouse washers, so I wash almost all loads on the low setting and then turn it to large for the DEEP rinses. Because of the DEEP rinses and the spins, it really gets rid of detergent by the time it buzzes to add the softener. I do not particularly like the no spins method of rinsing in the perma-press cycles of the Mieles, but I am not complaining, nor should I, with 8 washers to choose from when I get to the basement with laundry.
 
Minimum Iron Interim Spins

Strange Nathan that you mention your Minimum Iron cycle doesn't do interim spins. After the wash, and between every rinse, my Miele will do a short burst at about 600rpm, then a longer burst at 900rpm, the first lasting about a second and the latter lasting 5 seconds or so. Obviously not the best for heavier fabrics which should be washed on the standard cottons cycle, but for synthetic fibres it's all the spinning you need between the rinses, and I've found it to be perfectly fine. Does your Miele just drain rather than drain and spin between the minimum iron rinses? BTW mine also defaults to a high rinse level and also cools down the wash water on the minimum iron cycle, perhaps another difference between the AU and EU models :-).

I know for definite the older Miele's, such as the ones Tom own, don't spin after the rinses on the Minimum Iron/Permanent press cycles, this is only a feature that was brought in with the W900 series of the late 90's from what I have read.

Jon
 
Miele Interim Spins

For interest's sake thought I'd post the description of all the cycles on my European Miele - from my understanding they have tweaked these somewhat with the new 6 kilo models (the 5 kilo Miele's we all know and love are slowly but surely being phased out).

Cottons Universal
Main wash
Water level: low
Wash rhythm: normal
Rinses
Water level: medium
No of rinses: 2 or 3
Spinning
Rinse and interim spin: yes - 1000rpm spin
Final spin: yes (1600rpm)

Minimum Iron
Main wash
Water level: low
Wash rhythm: normal
Rinses
Water level: high
No of rinses: 2 or 3
Spinning
Rinse and interim spin: yes - slow/short and fast/long bursts
Final spin: yes (900rpm)

Delicates
Main wash
Water level: high
Wash rhythm: Gentle action
Rinses
Water level: high
No of rinses: 3
Spinning
Rinse and interim spin: no
Final spin: yes (600rpm)

Cottons Hygiene
Main wash
Water level: low
Wash rhythm: normal
Rinses
Water level: medium
No of rinses: 2 or 3
Spinning
Rinse and interim spin: yes - 1000rpm spin
Final spin: yes (1600rpm)

Woollens Handwash<b>
Main wash
Water level: medium
Wash rhythm: Woollens
Rinses
Water level: medium
No of rinses: 2
Spinning
Rinse and interim spin: yes - fast, long burst
Final spin: yes (1200rpm)

<b>Silks Handwash<b>
Main wash
Water level: medium
Wash rhythm: Silks
Rinses
Water level: medium
No of rinses: 2
Spinning
Rinse and interim spin: no
Final spin: yes (400rpm)

<b>Quick wash

Main wash
Water level: low
Wash rhythm: normal
Rinses
Water level: medium
No of rinses: 2
Spinning
Rinse and interim spin: yes - short/slow and fast/long bursts
Final spin: yes (1600rpm)

Automatic
Main wash
Water level: low
Wash rhythm: normal
Rinses
Water level: high
No of rinses: 2
Spinning
Rinse and interim spin: yes - EITHER slow/short & fast/long bursts OR 900rpm spin (fabric dependent)
Final spin: yes (900rpm)

Denim
Main wash
Water level: medium
Wash rhythm: normal
Rinses
Water level: medium
No of rinses: 3
Spinning
Rinse and interim spin: no
Final spin: yes (900rpm)

Outer wear
Main wash
Water level: medium
Wash rhythm: Gentle action
Rinses
Water level: high
No of rinses: 3
Spinning
Rinse and interim spin: yes (short/slow burst after wash)
Final spin: yes (800rpm)

Shirts
Main wash
Water level: medium
Wash rhythm: normal
Rinses
Water level: medium
No of rinses: 2
Spinning
Rinse and interim spin: yes (short/slow and short/long spins)
Final spin: yes (600rpm)

You can of course programme the water plus option to deliver either an extra rinse, a high water level, or both. Whilst I tend to use the extra rinse for absorbent loads such as towels, I have found that along with proper detergent dosage (i.e. not shovelling it into the drawer) that the standard 2 rinses work perfectly fine on your average load - to the point where there are no suds at all in the first rinse! Just goes to show how powerful that 1000rpm interim spin is (it spins for about 4 mins at 1000rpm after the wash). As a poster mentioned above about dirt being driven back into the clothes on a wash spin, I can only say that in all the years I've owned washers that spin after the wash my whites have never been dingy from dirt allegedly being driven back into them.

Jon
 
My washer is a miele and it spins after the mainwash! My washer washes and then cools down and dilutes the soapy water. Then it drains and spins. For towels and the sanitizing wash ( köchwasche 95°) I let her rinse 4 times. For other things I let her rinse 3 times (or 4 when I forgot to select the short option). No rinse worries and no overconsumption of water. And because of washing with rainwater, water is free, but it lets suds the detergent more.
( is my german oke or is it as bad as my english?)
 
I got them and I've played :)

I picked them up yesterday morning, and have done 5 or so loads on Cottons light soil. When I have filled it for Synthetic or Delicate, the fill comes halfway up the door.

The on Cottons the machine does a low level wash, and 5 high level rinses.

The machine drains at the end of wash
Fills for the first rinse
Drains
Fills for the second Rinse
Drains
Fills for the third rinse
Drains and spins
Drain pump stops and the machine starts filling for the fourth rinse while still spinning.
Drains and spins
Fills for the 5th rinse through the detergent dispensor first and then the fabric softener container.

It does balance the loads prior to spin, it tumbles backwards and forwards for longer periods until the spin motor kicks in without a pause and it seems to ramp up to about 900RPM. In the final spin, it does this for about 5 minutes and then ramps up to 1100RPM for another 5mins.

A graduated spin, is what I'd call a spin burst. It pulses the spins on and off and then tumbles inbetween.

Without graduated spin, the timer clicks past the incremements where it would otherwise pulse, and just goes into two spin increments at the end of the cycle, before defaulting to a creasguard tumble program.

The machine doesnt alter the tumble speeds, instead it just adjusts the tumble period. During heating in the washer, it has very short tumbles with long pauses. You can tell when the heating is finished, as it instantly starts to tumble longer harder and faster.

So far I've found 3 spin speeds, but as they're built into the timer, I'm not sure what they are, I'm just judging by sound.

The machine does the cooldown after wash in every cycle. (On my new machine, this is an option to protect pre 1974 compliant plumbing from 95degC water)

I did all our washing in the machine, and the suds levels were negligable. This morning, I put a load of Michael's mothers towels through, and by the end of wash, the suds were covering the door. There must've been lots of Coldpower residue left in the towels. I ended up putting it through a second lot of rinses to get rid of all the soap (10 rinses in total) I attempted to put the machine straight into spin from wash with this load to get rid of the suds. Tom was right, the machine sudslocked badly, tried for about 20seconds to spin, and when it didnt get any speed up, advanced through the increment and filled for the rinse.

The thing I like best about the machine is how I can control every part of the cycle, I can skip or repeat and do whatever I choose.

The machine could use a new rubber seal around the glass insert in the door, (Its hardened) but its not leaking anywhere.

The suspension could do with some greasing as well, it seems to twang slightly when reversing during tumbling.

All in all, I'm very impressed with the machine. The build quality and how it senses things without electronics is amazing. I'm hoping I never need to do a timer replacement, as there are fistfulls of wire everywhere on the back of the control panel.

The Dryer is another story :)

As with any device from a beachside appartment, the underneath of the dryer is full of sand. Every time we move it, more sand falls out.

I put a load of old towels in this morning, to see what happens.

The machine starts tumbling and gets hot very quickly. Once the machine reaches the temp (You open the door and condensation forms around the seals) the water inlet valve opens. This is however where things went wrong :)

The valve was cycling on and off, as expected. However the drain pump wasnt running, so after 5 minutes water started to run out of the condensor overflow at the back.

Next time we're up the coast I will investigate further.

The dryer needs its pump issue fixed, a new light globe, and a new set of door seals. Other than that it seems pretty good.

After the leak, I hung my steaming hot washing on the clothesline and it was dryed in no time.

I have photos on the camera and will post em later.

Hugs

Nathan
 
Great pictures. Thanks for sharing them. Have you tried out the Perm Press? It uses a lot of water cooling the wash water down. It pumps out and takes in water several times. I loved watching my mother's old Miele do this.

BTW, the "0" on the left dial is power off. On the "Stop" there is still power on the machine.

There is quite a lot of softener in the compartment. You shouldn't put more in there than the little line in front of the dispenser, if not a little less. If you close the dispenser you can easily make the dispenser empty itself prematurely.

This model is one of the first without a row of holes in the detergent dispenser. The older models had holes on the left and right side of the handle. The backside of the flap (the inside of the dispenser) was slanted a little towards the outside. They were meant for the steam to escape. I guess the Miele designers found it not necessary. I remember though the steam coming from the machine when my mother (or I) would do a boil wash.

IIRC the doorseals were a bit harder to begin with. More than the newer models. After 21 years of use my mother's machine was replaced, the original seal was still on it.

I hope you can get the dryer to work again. It was an expensive matching set when it was new.

Bringing up great memories!

Louis
 
Doorseals

Hi Louis,

My 2515 doesnt have a door seal there. The boot just presses up against the glass. The older boot seems a better design, although harder to clean, but the water just seems to run straight back into the tub. It retains even less water than my new machine does.

The old one seems to have a rubber liner between the glass and the door frame, that is the component thats hard. I didnt want to push my luck and find out if it was brittle too :)

I figure the issue with the dryer is one of two things.

1) If the machine has a pressure switch that controls water level, via inlet and pump, the pressure switch has failed.

2) If there is no pressure switch, the pump simply has failed.

Due to the amount of sand in the cabinet/filters/drum. I'm guessing there could be a fair bit of sand in the condensor system. Its a tiny pump, about the size of peach, so it could just be blocked. Otherwise the dryer seems fine. Unlike most reversing dryers I've seen, the heater and blower fan run, when the machine pauses to reverse. The joy of having 3 motors I guess.

The other door seal around the edge of the door on the dryer is brittle and crumbling (And full of sand) the inner one around the filter is just loose and hard. These machines dont have a lot of access for service. I so far havent figured out how to get the top off the dryer, there are two fragile plastic clips, as the parts are NLA for the lid, I'm not game enough to force it. It does appear that the back will unscrew, but until I can see what I'm disconnecting, I'll leave it on.

From underneath, the dryer is a complex maze of tubing and ducting.

Its bizzare getting used to an appliance that you can infinitely control. After only having a new FL machine, the most unnerving thing, is when the timer clicks over an increment there is an inital loud roar for 2-3 secs as the spin motor gets up speed and then its gone from a tumble to 900RPM spin in about 5 seconds and sounds pretty much like any FL machine, but perhaps slightly louder. So far with 5 loads, I havent managed to get it OOB, it came close an a really full load, but ones the speed got up there, it was fine.

Thanks for your interest Louis, I appreciate it.
 
Nathan, the pleasure is mine. I love looking at and talking about these machines.

Now I know what seal/liner you mean. I think that is supposed to be that stiff. I wouldn't worry about that, I don't think I ever heard of a Miele having problems with it.

BTW, IIRC the lower spinspeed is 800rpm. On my mother's W423 (that didn't have the Economy and the Graduated Spin buttons) the graduated spin was standard. There was a rinse hold on all the other cycles and you turned it manually to spin. On all the cycles except Whites and Coloureds a short three minute spin followed then. The manual said you could turn the machine off after one minute. I wonder if yours has a different spin cycle on the other cycles. If you press the Graduated Spin button I assume the Rinse Hold is skipped?

I'm sorry I can't help you any further with the dryer. These water condenser dryers were very rare here. Water was always expensive here, so people didn't want to buy a machine like that. In the brochure it said that you could use the water for a bath, but that meant you had to install it next to a tub.

The older Mieles were far from quiet. I still remember all the sounds. Quiet wasn't important. Quality was however. It's great to see this machine still work. It's about 30 years now.
 
Nathan, thanks for the cycle observations. While the control panel looks different than the controls on the late W1065, the three dials offered similar settings and the cycling was much the same except mine only gave 4 rinses with a pulse spin between the 2nd and 3rd and then a decent spin between 3rd and 4th rinse. Then it went through the graduated spins with three short spin bursts to spin the bulk of the water out of the load with a tumble in between. It was almost like the 29 inch Kenmore combo in this aspect. Then it went into the high spin. My machine gave the choice of 900 or 1100 rpm spins. I think what your button calls economy was labeled "1/2" on mine. In the 1980s, I would find Miele ads in European magazines and Maria, a friend at work who knew many languages, would translate them with me. Miele made a big production in advertising that even with the 1/2 or economy option the load was washed just as long as a full load because it heated at half the rate or something. I liked the continuously variable temperature settings. I could always tell hot hot the water was by turning the temperature dial toward a lower setting and listening for the click when the heat shut off. When I washed small loads, I would select 1/2 for the wash and then reset it when it came time for the cottons rinses so that they filled up on the glass.

While I miss the flexibility of the controls on the W1065, (the 965 had a black on black control panel with white markings and the 1065, like mine, was all white except for the orange-yellow door release button) my W1918 and W1986 handle the draining/spinning much better. They do not have the water racing around between the inner and outer tubs when they start spinning. They rinse as well or better and spin faster.

Hey, what's that stuff that looks like guacamole in the softener dispenser?

Your description of the condenser dryer operation is the first time I have heard of what a water condenser dryer should do, and that is wait until the load reached a steaming temperature before starting the condenser water. Do you or Louis know of a measurement of how much water per minute was used in the condensing process? The only two water condensing dryers produced here (not counting the washer-dryer combinations), the Hotpoint and the Maytag, used between 1/2 and 1/3 gallon per minute and the water came on as soon as you started drying. I believe that there was even a safety pressure switch which would not allow the dryer to operate if there was not water pressure at the valve. When you get into the condenser, you will have to show us how it worked. The most efficient ones made here shot the water through so fine a nozzle that it atomized when it hit the fan where it mixed with the steam to condense it. The water has to be relatively cold for the process to work efficiently. Saying that the condensate water could be used for another purpose is very wise. My BIG Bendix Duomatic used to be on the same wall as one or more of my top loading washers, generally a Frigidaire. I would drain the condensate water into the tub of the top loader and have a nice tub of warm water for the next load. It used about a half gallon an hour and most loads were dry in 45 minutes, but I only saved the water once it started coming out of the drain hose good and warm. Even if you do not use the condensate water inside, perhaps you would be able to collect it in a container and use it to water plants outside.

Does your dryer have the 4 or 5 automatic dry settings? I remember that Maria translated them for me. The dampest was for machine ironing. The next 2 were for hand ironing. Then there was, I think, regular dry and then there was shelf dry, a setting that made sure the load was dry enough to fold and put away. Louis probably knows these settings.

Have fun and keep us posted on what you discover about these machines.
 
I don't know much about that dryer. I just got a brochure out from 1981, a bit newer than the washer, but still from the same series. Miele still had the water condenser dryers back then. As a matter of fact it appears that they use much less water than Nathan assumes. According to the brochure it's 18 (approx. 4.5 gallons) litres for a full load.

That the dryer starts the condensation process after the warming up phase makes sense. The Miele air condenser dryers do that also in contrary to most other brands.

The dryer must have five settings. I think I see symbols instead of text on the control panel of the dryer, is that correct? I don't know what the settings would be in English, I only know them in Dutch. But they could indeed be Extra dry, Shelf dry, Almost dry, Hand Iron dry and Machine Iron dry. The sixth symbol is for the Cool Down.

I guess Miele used different model numbers already for your machine Tom. I think the machine you had was a W760 here, a model that wasn't sold in the Netherlands, but was in Germany. The series that was introduced in 1982 was the first to have a spinspeed button. You could choose between 900 and 1100 or 1200, at least on the more expensive models. The BOL model still had a max. 900.

The older series like the machine in this thread never had a spinspeed selector. The spinspeed was determined by the cycle you chose. As a matter of fact there is something special about the W423. This model number was used very often, there are many models with that same model number. I don't know why Miele used that number so often. My mother's older Miele was a W423 (I added a picture of this model). When Miele made a few changes there was still a W423 and they used it until the introduction of the W700 series. The W423 has been made with 1000, 1100 and 1200 rpm. With the three dials (and later with two or three extra buttons) they were very versatile machines.

The brochure doesn't explain what the 1/2 button does. Can it be that it skips a rinse?

It looks like there was some kind of progression in the development of the spins between rinses. My Miele also does four rinses, but has the spin burst after the main wash. It spins after every rinse.

1-8-2006-13-52-52--foraloysius.jpg
 
Guacamole is Fabric Softener

Hi Tom,

That goo is fabric softener. I've tried a new version of Fluffy called spring fresh, and it just seems to go goopy as soon as you pour it out of the bottle. It smells strong though, everything that came out of the Miele is quite fragranced. Initially I liked it, but now I think the novelty has worn off. Anything I wash in the new machine, never has any fragrance at all. The dispenser holds about a capfull, but by the time you remove the clothes, there is no scent left.

The dryer has the following automatic dry settings:
Extra Dry
Ready to Put Away
Non Iron
Hand Iron
Machine Iron

Plus 40 mins of timed dry. Non Iron is Europe speak for Permanant Press.

I'm assuming that the dryer is operating correctly in how it does. It seems to wait until it gets hot before the inlet opens. Next time I'm up there, I'll start opening it up and see how it works. The machines seem to be built to keep non Miele technicians out :)

According to the product specs, the machine for an 80min cycle uses 80L of water. So thats 1L/min or I think 1/4Gal/Min

So far they're both hooked up in the garage, and I'm draining them out onto the grass.

When graduated spin is off, it actuates the spin motor three times as the timer skips past those increments.

Then it goes and tumbles again, before jumping into high mode :)
 
The dryer

Hi. Nice catch you got there. About 12 years ago i was in another city and studied. In the washrooms they had such washing machines and dryers. Of course i,m not really sure if it was the W 423 model but i belive so. They always worked, never any problems even if they was abused by some of the other students.

The top lid of the dryer can be difficult to remove. You must use an regular flat "screw". Under the middle of the lid there is a "switch". The washer had an similar one. You press on the switch and then it clicks or snap and then you can remove the lid. About the problem: It is sure the drain pump that is in bad shape of all the sand.

BEWARE: IMPORTANT: Always turn of the power before fix an Miele machine, atleast the older ones. A friend tried to repair one that was connected and got a nasty "surprise".

One other thing also: if there is a electrical fault in these machines the sparks can really fly, Litterary. Just a little info .
 
Older Miele units with mechanical timers had a pre-wash cycle built into most all cycles except delicates/woolens. Using the half load button would cause the washer to skip the pre-wash and go straight to the main wash cycle. Half load button was also used for a "quick wash" in Cottons, and Permanent Press cycles in that is used less water and again skipped the pre-wash.

The half load button also caused the unit to use less water and there for was also pushed when using the starching cycle so there would be less water/dilution of the starch.

Miele used the half load button on American models up until the W1070 or so. Once the W1918 and other computer/electronic models were introduced the half load button was taken away. With the additon of a "brain" the washer sensed load size and adjusted water accordingly. Programming took care of most of the other funcions including "quick wash". Interestingly Miele added a "water plus" button to these models so one could use more water.

Early sales materials for the Miele w1918 models took pains to compare their units with Asko's. Miele bragged their electronic/computer units did not have a "half load" button, like Asko's, because the unit automatically sensed proper water requirements.

Spin speeds,

Yes, early Miele models sold in the United States had spin speeds set by cycle. However one the w1070 and other models, one could slow the spin down for cottons and PP cycles, by pressing a button. No change could be made for Woolens and Delicates however.

Interesting thing about early Miele units sold in the states, on the PP cycle the unit stopped after final rinse without spinning. One had to either "program" (by pushing the proper buttons before starting the cycle), or come back later and do the same to complete the final spin.

One great fun thing about mechanical timer Miele washers, is the endless amount of user modificatins one could make. Say one wanted a shorter spin cycle. No problem, simply manually advance the timer. Miele sold quite a few of these units, and apparently they are still happily washing away in homes all over the US some 15 or so years after the last ones were produced.

Launderess
 
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