Mobile Maid Akron OH rebuild

[akronman]

here's the link to the original find, but this here thread will be repairs.

 

HOLY SH%T.  IT knocks glasses over, I can hear the plates banging against one another rhytmically as that spray arm sweeps around the machine! That is a powerful spray system, very glad I don't own fine china.

 

But it ain't without problems. JB Weld solved the small rust-through hole, about 3/16 dia. The impeller came right off the motor shaft and I inspected the seal but didn't take pics. It had a perfectly smooth surface and was just like a small diameter version of Norge washer and Frigidaire 1-18 washer tub seals. I prayed that the previous leak had only been the rust hole, and 3 loads of wash later it seems I was right, so the impeller/shaft/seal/motor stays assembled for now.

 

The link is my first thread,when I got the machine

 

But I had lots of problems getting the spray arm to rotate. The pic shows how the machine was when I got it. After a few turns of spray, the arm ended up tightenening that large nut agiainst the arm and all rotation stopped. This happened TONS of times. Finally I put an internal tooth #10 washer and a #10-32 small bolt on the top of that, tightened like a jam nut against the original large nut while checking it had maybe 1/16 of play and free movement, and 3 loads later it's spraying up a storm.

 

And I mean a storm!!! Loud water tons of water Niagara! it knocks plates against each other in a perfect cadence, turns over small cups in the top racks, etc, holy crap

 

 

Topload dishwasher ID needed

I am maybe/likely buying this, can anyone ID it for me? It looks like they painted right over the name at some point, but it's priced right

www.automaticwasher.org

 

[akronman]

questions

1) Relay------during all the problems with spray arm rotation, I kept opening the lid frequently to see if the arm was at 2 oclock then 7 oclock then wherever, needed to check it's movement.  Most of the times, the wash re-started immediately. BUT once or twice it immediately went into drain, then paused, then another drain with almost no water left. It occured to me the relay must stick a bit, sending it on the wrong direction, finishing an interrupted wash on drain instead? And once or twice it buzzed for 3 seconds before going into drain, then again stop, then immediate drain again. Sounds like sticky relay when it's supposed to wash.  John Combo mentioned oiling it, rebuilding it? Or for a GE bi-directional motor relay, is there a PN for new?

 

2)-cycle buttons-----the previous thread shows 3 cycle switch, Daily loads, pots-pans, china. It seems electrically stuck on China: it skips the first wash and rinse, just give a rinse wash rinse rinse, and the Calrod only heats for maybe 1/4 of the drying. I don't mind the stuck apsect of limited Calrod drying, but I surely want the Normal load or PotsPans cycling, Wash-Rinse-Wash-Rinse-Rinse.

 

The pic shows the switch, it's actually 3 buttons but hard to see the break in the long one. 6 blades, 4 contacts, GE#ASP3224-08.  Anyone know a replacement or source? Ebay brings up ASP 3224-????? many variations, not mine.

 

 

 

But overall, the wash system/motor/arm/pump all works with no leaks, potent washing action. Once I solve the minor issues, I'll tackle the horrid Formica top and the paint job.

 

Does Jet-Dry still sell those netted plastic baskets you clip on a rack? My machine lacks only the Rinse-Glo GE sysetm of the 60's. Other than that, it's a TOL Power Shower 3 cycle machine(stuck on one cycle and painted like crap, lol)

 

[turquoisedude]

Hmmmm... the China/Crystal AND the Pots and Utensils have a 'dead space' on the timer for the first pre-wash. The timer will run through to what would be the first pre-rinse on the Normal cycle and the washing cycle will begin at that point. This is not a problem, as far I as I can recall from my '62 Mobile Maid.

Feeling the need to get that machine back out of deep storage and play with it when I get back from Brazil....

 

[akronman]

Paul

Paul Turquoise---trouble is that no matter what button I press, with all fingers and thumbs and 220 lbs of weight, I get the short cycle, That switch is internally stuck. And to push one button, I have to lift like hell on the others. Mechnically/springs DEAD, electrically stuck on one exact cycle.  I took it off and cleaned as best I can, it's a rusted mess of a switch, each of those six blades is about ready to rust through.. If I can't find a replacement, I'll see about wiring past it on the diagram, to get only the daily load cycle, WRWRR. Who knows

 

[akronman]

2 more things

The water level is nearly half way up the metal spray arm, nearly to its holes. OK?

 

Also, what is this thing? should it be rotating or is it stationary? At times while trying to get the arm to rotate, this was loose and sort of spun, but poorly because of the 3 nibs you can see, seem to match up with 3 ribs in the outer black casing. But by the time I finally got things in place and a jam nut to keep the arm from self-tightening, this no longer moved. Hmmmm....

 

[turquoisedude]

Long shot here, Mark, but you might want to try asking Larry at Modern Parts if he might still have a pushbutton selector for this model. I don't remember seeing any while I was there in May, but I do remember that there were LOTS of GE and Hotpoint parts still and that there were some pushbutton switch banks...

He's in Parma, Ohio - Modern Parts House on Brookpark Road. I don't have the number handy, but I'll look it up.

 

[akronman]

relay

John--I have the relay off the machine, it's #wd21x194, there's a supply house one for $10 plus $10 shipping.

There's also a tiny screw at the bottom and a nut on top----what do I do inside once it's open. When I shake it, you can hear some metallic solenoid moving up and down.

 

Weird thing is, while I did tons of opening and closing the washer while testing and probably under 20% of the time it wrongly gave me rinse directon of the motor partway thru an interrupted wash, but----when I just turn it on and let it cycle thoughout the dial, this relay gives me the correct direction at the correct time. It never gave me a wash instead of rinse when interrupted.

 

For only $20 for a new one, it doesn't scare me to open this to either repair or ruin it. I get braver or dumber with each old machine.

 

 

Well, before I posted this, I took a screwdriver in my hands..........now what? Just emery paper on the 4 contacts and the tiniest drop of oil on the main center spring post and another tiny drop on the silver sleeve? I've rebuilt centrifugal switches on a 1951 Hamilton and a 62 Frigidaire, this is less worrisome than I thought. But no, I don't know what to do now I'm inside it. That's what he said!

Tissue paper wipe out the center opening? everything is dust free, no sign of lube ever, contacts not great but I've seen worse and repaired them. My guess is delicate sanding only, no oil.

 

[akronman]

done

John--I sanded the contacts, didn't use a drop of oil anywhere, put the relay back together, and all is well? I noticed it only does accidental drain in the last 20 or so seconds of a wash. I must have opened the lid 30 times and it washed washed washed. When it does accidental drain, it's only at the tail end, and it then does accidental drain each time I open and close. Then it pauses and does scheduled drain. Methinks it's not a relay problem. Instead could the timer already be "ready" for the next part of the cycle, contacts in the timer are already set to send the reverse direction next time the motor starts, and by stopping the machine at that tail end of wash, I'm confusing the timer by 15 seconsd? If that's the only problem, I'm just leaving it alone.

 

A sticker on the timer says 20-69. Week and year of production? No other signs anywhere, and I have a 63 sales brochure and 68 owners manual, they sure made minor changes in buttons and lids and Uni-coupler and timer knob, kinda hard to exactly identify.

 

I can live with and wash with the bad switch for a while as I search for a fix or replacement, other than that I believe I am done with repairs, now moving on to the "Textolite" top, uglier than hell. So far this cost $20 for the long-unused machine, $5.95 Home Depot faucet adapter, that's all. So the ugliness of the lid and paint job don't seem so bad from that standpoint.

 

And some of the trim and handles are now being washed in a KitchenAid!

 

[xpanam]

parts machine

Hey Mark check this out! Probably 500 miles?

http://chattanooga.craigslist.org/atq/4080646375.html

 

[akronman]

cleveland

Cleveland OH to Cleveland TN is 563 miles! Too far for a parts machine, but thanks for the link. Now I know my Model #.. This one is EXACTLY my model. All the others in these forums show the decades GE built this and the numerous options and decor changes, but this listing is EXACT. All I need right now is that Formica lid, mine sucks.

 

hopefully someone gets this

 

[combo52]

GE DW Relay

Mark it sounds like you did well with the relay, you basically just clean them up, file the contacts if pitted and use the tiniest bit of a non-sticky lubricant.

 

It is normal for the machine to switch from wash-rinse run direction if the machine is stopped near the end of a W or R period by either opening the lid or plugging the plug and then starting it again. The GE built timer advances continuously so the timer contacts for the motor preset themselves to reduce arching.

 

[akronman]

Model

I scraped some paint off, this is #SP390B1. Timer says 20-69, and there's a Craigslist ad for an SP390B3 where the seller claims 1970, exact match to mine, so I am saying it's a 69 or 70 model, I think near the end of Mobile Maids. I think the only missing options are Rinse-Glo dispenser and some unicoupler that allowed for running water in the sink, called "Faucet-Flo."

 

I think the lid can be renewed by just flipping it over and gluing down a new sheet of Formica. Currently, "Textolite" top is 18ga steel with about the same thickness, 1/32, laminate fully glued. In my business travels I'll keep an eye out for Kitchen/Bath Remodelers stores, all I need is 2 ft square.  I'll also cut and glue some wood shims for under the lid so it won't bow down again. The metal frame around the edges looks to have enough flex and space to allow a marginally thicker lid.

 

 

 

[akronman]

switch

Larry at Modern Parts took my model#SP390B1 while searching thru listings and immediately told me it's a 1966 model, I trust his paperwork. HE HAS THE SWITCH!!! Of course, price is more than the entire machine, but that's part of the hobby madness. Any idea if the "B3" model number I've seen elsewhere just refers to color?

 

I already jumpered one set of contacts on my dead one and got the full cycle of 3min wash, rinse, 9 min wash, R R. I will wait for Calrod testing once the new switch is installed. It does work for drying, no Calrod problems, but I am pretty sure it hasn't yet turned on for heated washes or rinses. I'll see what the new switch does. Other shcematics for other models make some reference to Calrod wash and rinse, other schematics have no notes, some literature for other models mentions heated wash, most don't, etc, way too many models thru the years on this machine. And various 2 button models, 3 and 4 button also, RInse and Hold. Hopefully I get heated main wash at least, I would never use heated dry.

 

This GE is similar to Filter Flos and GE dryers in that on the same basic design, they have so many iterations and options, very BOL to super TOL and all in between, nearly as many models as Kenmore did.

 

The same week I get a new toy fun dishwasher, I have been out to eat with family and friends nearly every evening, and daytime businees travel lunch on the road, darn little eating at home. I want a fattening weekend with tons of home-cooked dirty dishes, pots, pans

 

[turquoisedude]

It's coming along very nicely, Mark!!

I think you can still buy sheet laminate for counters at Home Depot. I remember they had a 'boomerang' pattern (in turquoise, natch) back in '09 when I was redoing the Ogden kitchen (hubby put the kibosh on that though...)

If you don't have a specific pattern or style in mind, look in the 'reject cut' area of one of the home improvement stores - they often have a piece or two of counter top material that nearsighted fools like myself gave them the wrong measurements for.... LOL

 

[akronman]

Home D

So far 2 Home Depots and one Lowes only want to sell me a 4 x 8 sheet at $68 to $85. I am very colorblind and none of these portable's lids ever matched anyone's kitchen counters. Boomerang would be nice but Wilsonart only "re"produced it for a few years, and my kitchen re-do with pale blue boomerang was maybe 6 years ago? I will likely just gladly use the first $10 scrap piece of any style I find. The switch is the real price-gouger here, now I gotta save on the lid. You are correct, I will keep checking kitchen/bath remodeler stores, something priced right will appear, then I'll know the top color and can decide what paint(s) for the cabinet.

 

[akronman]

repairs

Larry at Modern Parts had a switch, it's GE#WD21X211, and then ReStore had lots of laminate sheets, so now all that's left to do is the cabinet painting. You can see 2 screws in the lid chrome edge.

Also, next to the Mobile Maid is my Chambers range. Both the griddle and the broiler pan fit inside this dishwasher, that's my very ultimate dishwasher test.

 

[akronman]

more

The original lid edge assembly was glued together, and had bowed out, warped through the years. I did a complete dissasembly of the top, cleaned up and sanded the underside of the Textolite top, then Gorilla glued and clamped and weighed down the new sheet of red formica. For re-assembly, I drilled right through the chrome and into the metal tub lid's upper flange, then installed stainless steel self-tapping screws. It shouldn't come apart again.

 

A fellow AW person kindly offered a switch from his dead Mobile Maid, but I already had LArry get me this one and various washer/dryer parts, I just went through with that deal. But thanks to Alan for the kind offer. This 3 cycle machine Nomal--PotsPan--China uses WD21X211. I've seen other MM's here with usually 3 positions, but some only Normal and China, one with 3 + Rinse Hold, so there's a slight variance in switches. Then once I had the switch and PN, I Ebayed and found I paid a logical price, wtf. I still need to hook up a test lamp to prove that the Calrod does or doesn't heat for the wash portion, it's easier than sticking my fingers in there.

 

With the cabinet already having a poor brush coat, difficult to entirely get down to a smooth finish, I may just decide to use leftover dark blue and yellow paint from my kitchen and do a two-tone matching job!

[this post was last edited: 10/13/2013-11:34]

 

[akronman]

Numerous loads washed

This Mobile Maid is EXELLENT! I am very happy with it, powerful washing no matter how I load it, dishes and pans sit for days and come out perfectly clean.

 

But the calrod does NOT heat for any wash or rinse, regardless of what buttons I press. This is a SP390B1, from 1966. The 3 postion button is as follows:

Normal---2 washes, 3 rinses, Calrod heats entire 20+ minutes of drying

Pots---2 washes, 3 rinses, Calrod on for just first 5 minutes of drying(approx)

China--skips first W and R, then gives Wash-Rinse-Rinse, Calrod on same 5 minutes only like Pots cycle.

 

Some literature and electric diagrams FOR OTHER MODELS, OTHER YEARS makes reference to the Calrod ON for Wash/Rinse, other literature and diagrams make no such claim or reference. And GE made many many versions, differences in racks and rack lifting arrangements, Power Shower or no, single cycle, 2 buttons, 3, 4 buttons, etc, Rinse and hold feature, etc  Way too many optional models for such a one-design machine. Could I have a model that only heated the Calrod for drying, and left it off for energy conservation during water action? But 1966 was before the 73 energy crisis, we just didn't worry as much as now.

 

Should I look into the timer? Should I leave well enough alone? I am not afraid of timers, but aware I'd likely never find another one.

 

It is an extremely impressive toploader, but a heated wash would be the icing on the cake.

 

 

[akronman]

bump

bumping this up again, wondering if anyone has varied Mobile Maid experience and knows that the Calrod should ALWAYS heat the wash portion? Timer issue?

Thanks----I'll use it regardless, it does a fine job--