MOVING A MAYTAG E2L

[e2l-arry]

GASKETS

I just found a gasket kit for Maytag wringer washers. On Ebay it said it was for "vintage 80's Maytag Wringer Washers. I think mine is a 60's version but it's that same isn't it? Her a picture of my broken agitator.

 

[stan]

Hi Larry

I was hoping that you were going to be able to fill and go, but no such luck! Damm!

Rest assured we are here to help in our own way!

Geoff will probably be along and will have very good tips for you. Until then...the gaskets are the same (60's to 80's)
You might as well do the best you can to remove the agitator, and see what kind of bolts are under, that hold the PU on, if they are the gulmite bolts, you'll have to start looking for a gulmite wrench. Think it's impossible to get the WD 40 to reach the spot it would need to, with agitator still on, unless you can squirt it down the the broken spot and have it reach? (wishful thinking)
It may require laying a 2 by 6 by 3 ft board across the top of the machine, and using a couple of strong straps slid under two sides of the agitator, brought up over the board and over a steering wheel puller, or small floor jack rigged up to lift the agitator straight up off the post. Once the agitator is off, you could try another water test to make sure removing the PU is necessary. Sometimes it's just one bolt that water seeps thru, and makes it look worse from underneath than it really is ( again this is total wishful thinking, but no harm in trying at this point) LOL.
Have you plugged the machine in without water to make sure the electric motor is working?
Also from the pics, it looks as though the machine is gravity drain only??

Sounds like the cosmetics will have to come later, you have a little work to do first. Keep us posted! pics

Stan

 

[e2l-arry]

Hi Stan

We had the same idea about WD-40 down the agitator broken spot go I gave it a good spray through the top. Now I can see a puddle of it down there. So I don't know if the agitator is hollow all the way through or if the WD-40 is puddled up on top of the seals or something. Anyway, it's sat over night and later today I'll try it again. If it's still stuck I'll start chipping away at the broken agitator and remove it in pieces. I'm curious as to what's under there, bolt-wise myself. I'm HOPING that they are the 1/2" vs. those funky gulmite bolts. I'm also thinking I'll need a repair manual since I've never re-built one of these before. Where did you get yours? I'm going to look and see if I can download one.

You are correct, This is gravity drain. It' works out because I have a floor drain close to the machine.

I was trying to open up the wringer and I lifted the top half completely off. Ooops! So I thought I'd clean that while it's out and oil the bearings. I hope I can get that back together.

Before I bought this I did see it run. They plugged it in and the agitator moved and the wringer worked. I wish I'd have thought to ask them to put a bucket of water in it too. Oh well, for 25 bucks you can't expect too much. Even with all the stuff I've orders I'm only at around $110.00. There was one listed for $150.00 but that didn't even have a motor.

I'll let you know how I make out with the agitator.

Larry

 

[wringer]

Hi Larry,

There is a metal spline inside the agitator center at the bottom. It could be a plastic one but I doubt it since this is an older unit. The metal spline inside the agitator is what has "frozen" to the drive gear coming out of the PU. Your problem comes from someone never removing the agitator after a washing and lubing it occasionally. I have never had to deal with this but have talked with people who have and it seems to be a situation that takes some time correcting. The metal spline is put into the agitator with a type of machine that forces it in with leverage. I have had splines removed and replaced by the Amish here. Good luck in your restoration. When done you will have a Maytag that will last for years. I have an E, J and N that are used as daily drivers. One to wash and the other two for 2 rinses. Geoff has all of the answers here as he has done this all before. His machines are beauties. And, his knowledge goes very deep. Best of luck to you !

I have purchased many parts from Phil in NY and talked to him at great length about these beauties. He is a very nice guy and is very helpful. His prices are reasonable also.

Jim

 

[stan]

Hi Larry

The top half should go back on easy, just turn the tension bar back and forth as your trying to drop it in, and you'll figure it out!
Another common problem with these machines is the "index slide" in the wringer. This is the part that locks the wringer into position when you are putting clothes thru. Many time this is broken from someone manhandling it! (very easy fix with new part)

 

[e2l-arry]

found the leak

I got the agitator off. I had to break in into a thousand pieces but it's off. The spline is still stuck though so I haven't figured that out. I might not need to. That machine was a mess I'd say that agitator had never been off. I cleaned it a little and noticed right by 4 of the 6 bolts that attach the PU holes have rusted through. Here's a picture. So now my question is can these be patched or is this machine only useful as a planter? There are 4 holes the size of a dime to nickle. I dropped screw drivers through 3 of them to help with the picture. As usual, any help will be GREATLY appreciated. I feel like I'm fighting a loosing game here.

Larry

 

[stan]

Hi Larry

Don't give up yet!
You might want to Google around a bit, and find a some aluminum patching, probably a fiberglass resin, and cloth kit found in a auto supply will work, since it's not going to show, like a fender on a car, it dose'nt have to be perfect, just water tight, they also make patching for aluminum boats that should work!

If it were me I'd try to patch, then check to see if tub holds water, if so, then go a head and remove what's stuck to the post. if it is leaking badly into the PU, you'll know quick enough, as water and oil will start to come out of the weep hole as mentioned up thread.
Looks like it will take a little time and elbow grease to get that loose from the post, but you'll get it!

If you get that far, you can start to clean the tub with hot water,and a S.OS pad with light pressure, then hot water and detergent, and 2000 grit sandpaper, to bring back some shine. Same for the crown! (you'll rinse a lot of dark grey water away, but thats normal)

Now if you actually get THAT far, the I would spray some clear lacquer on just the crown (masking everything else off) as I wish I had done with mine!

As best as I can see, it looks like you have the gulmite bolt on yours? Hopefully you won't have to mess with them!

Hang in there Larry! If you get flustered, walk away for a while, it aint going anywhere. Take your time

HTH

Stan

 

[stan]

The more I look

at that last photo. they more I feel that there is nothing leaking into that PU? Just call it a hunch!

If those holes can be patched, and if you can get something under that left over agitator spine, to lift it off (blow torch heat gun may help) I think you'll be O.K!

I have lots of ideas of how to make the machine look new, but you got to get past this first!

Forgot to ask if you found the lint screen (sediment trap) under the agitator?

I have a service manual for this machine in a PDF I think? for sure I have it on a disk. Let me know if I can help you with that at least.

Stan

 

[qsd-dan]

I fully agree with what Stan says above. He provided great advice.

 

You may be able to patch smaller holes with JB Weld. Once all of the holes are patched up, coat the rest of the rust with something like POR-15 which will encapsulate and prevent any further rusting.

 

You'll need to chisel the drive block off of the agitator shaft. That's supposed to remain inside the agitator. You new agitator will come with a plastic one already installed inside of it.

 

Don't give up yet! She's still got plenty of life and many loads left in her.

 

 

 

[stan]

Rust

is the oxidation of iron!

So IMHO Im not sure about the Por 15 for this application? But I've never used Por 15 either so maybe?
Remember what ever it's patched with, has to stand up to hot water and detergent (why I think a boat patch 'maybe" is best)

Aluminum, will oxidize in a short period of time... reason why I suggested cleaning and polishing the crown, and spraying with the clear lacquer (to stop oxidation) just for cosmetic reasons.

The holes are caused by corrosion (not rust) most likely from modern detergents that are heavily dosed with Washing soda (a corrosive to aluminum) Chlorine Bleach (also corrosive) and obvious neglect (someone never removing the agitator, rinsing, and properly draining out, and wiping the machine dry) You can kind of tell from their location (lowest point where water would set the longest)

Keep us up to date Larry

 

[e2l-arry]

Hi Guys

Well,it's been a ride all right. I heard from Phil at Phil's Maytag. He said he thought that if the bottom of the tub had holes that surely there would be water in the transmission and I should cut my losses and use it as a ice cooler for Coors light. Which beats using it as a planter anyway. I told him that after seeing the condition of the machine that I was going to rebuild it anyway. Sadly, this machine has been seriously neglected but I still think I can get it to a usable state.

I just looked up J-B Weld and I liked what I read. I found this site when googling aluminum repair yesterday. The site is www.aluminumrepair.com and for $65.00 you get these brazing rods and you can use a propane torch to fill holes and cracks in aluminum. They have a video and it looks pretty cool and I think I could master that. But, I'd be heating the area of the bolts to 700 + degrees and I'm sure that would destroy the gaskets so I'll only go that route if I take the PU out. Now that Dan's turned me on to the J-B Weld, that's an easier and cheaper alternative. Then at least like Stan says, I could at lease verify if water has entered the tranny or not.

Here's the other thing, you should have seen the mound of gunk under that agitator! There was the black mound that turned out to be the drain screen. I thought only the pump models had those? It was totally plugged and a few of the holes are rusted out but that's no biggie. I did fine buttons, a pin and even razor blade as well and pieces of cork. I have to assume that's parts off a gasket. Another bad omen! Makes me think even more the PU has to be removed.

The good news is Phil offered to cancel my order for the new agitator and drain hose I ordered. I don't want to cancel but maybe suspend the order?? He did have a gulmite wrench for $35.00. I don't want to spend good money after bad though. Phil also said cutting oil, which I have applied should free up the spline stuck to the shaft.

So Stan, you have the manuals. I'm pretty mechanical but do you think I'd be getting in over my head re-building the transmission? How complex does it look to you? I don't know about replacement parts, if there are any other then the gasket set, which I've already ordered as well. I'm inclined to make this a fall weekend spare time project and get this machine running. Who doesn't like a good challenge every now and again?

Thanks again guys. Your input is invaluable!

Larry

 

[stan]

hi Larry

It's really not complicated at all

but to tell you the truth I would avoid going there unless you have to! Think of it like "your the Doctor and it's the patient" First do no harm LOL

For what it's worth...
It just dose'nt make sense to me that you have to "assume" that water has gotten into the PU without hard evidence!
Since the motor works and there is still a belt turning the agitator, why not run the machine, (motor and belt) for an hour or so.
(cant hold water now anyway) and see if anything leaks out of the weep hole, and listen to how the gears sound. If it sounds O.K and there is no seepage, then lets "assume" that water has NOT gotten into it!
If your prepared to do a tare down now, then you'll be prepared later. Do you see my point?

If it were me, I'd go ahead and get a new agitator, your going to have to anyway if your going to restore it later!
(and keep it a washing machine)
In the mean time, patch the holes to make sure the tub holds water. Then run the machine and see! There is nothing lost at this point. If evidence shows up later, that water IS getting in, then you still have'nt lost anything, because you were ready to do a tare down in the first place.

Even if water has gotten into the PU, it still may not be necessary to "rebuild" it, more like cleaning and refilling with the correct gear oil.
(if you could see inside, you'd see what I mean. Not much to go wrong in there)

I'll try to email you a PDF file of the service manual. (if you want) If that dose not work then I'll be in touch to snail mail it to you on a disk.

I understand that having a pump on it may not bother you now, because of the floor drain you have, but you should know, if you don't already, that one can be added in the future without a lot of effort. Phil has them. I think for about $45.00

Sure wish this had gone a little easier for you, but they are fun little projects!

Let me know

Stan

 

[e2l-arry]

Phil

I've traded a couple of emails with Phil tonight. You guys are right, he's a great guy and fantastic help. He told me they used to have a patch for the bottoms of these but they're no longer available. But he did have a gulmite wrench that I bought and will be sending me CD's of the service manual when my order ships. His prices are very reasonable. Essentially when removing the PU all you're doing is checking/replacing the 90 wt. gear oil and gaskets? Or do you remove the components, gears, and whatever else is in there and soak in solvent or something? I saw a post on a google search where one guy said he soaked them in coca cola because water had rusted them! I think I might as well remove the transmission though. When moving this machine I did notice a lot of thick oil down the leg of the wringer side. Plus I think I can do a better of patching with the PU out.

The saga continues!!

 

[stan]

Oil

coming down from the leg is a different issue.
Remember these are old ladies, they often make funny noises, and have little leaks now and then! LOL No to worry too much.

 

[e2l-arry]

Service Manual

Hi Stan,
Phil is sending me a service manual on CD. But if you could email me a PDF copy in the meantime, that would get me a jump on things.

I took a wire brush to it and found some of the holes are bigger than I thought so now not sure if J-B Weld epoxy is the way to go or the HTS 2000 used for aluminum fabrication and repair. Here a picture of the biggest corrosion. The web site says it's stronger than the original aluminum. I'm thinking I need that because if I ever do remove the P U, the holes are so close to the bolt I'm afraid removing the gulmite bolts would just tear away big chunks of the tub. Then it would really only be good for a cooler, a leaky one at that.

I've been soaking the spline in cutting oil. I think tonight I'll go at it with a heat gun and see if it will loosen

 

[e2l-arry]

1st week!

Well, I've officially had the machine a week now. In that time I've had to fix the agitator on/off shaft. The first time I pulled on it the thing broke loose from the activator switch on the P.U. Then the wringer was messed up. It wouldn't lock in the up position and the tension set on the top only moved in 1 direction. So I pulled the wringer top off and disassembled, re-assembled and it's working perfectly now. I also replaced the belt with the new one that arrived yesterday. Still waiting on the new agitator and drain hose although I do know that they've shipped

The biggest accomplishment was getting that spline off! That took me 4 days! Cutting oil, a heat gun, brute force and nothing! I finally went at it with a saber saw. I was careful not to go to deep and risk ruining the shaft. So once I was almost through, I stopped and popped it apart with a screwdriver and hammer.

I think I've fixed the corroded through spots in the bottom on the tub. I sanded and prepped the area then patched with some J-B Weld. I checked this morning and it's solid! Now I'm going to top that with a coating of 3M # 800 Industrial Sealant when that arrives. It's not sold retail so that was a little tricky to get ordered but it's on it's way. Then for the water test. I think it will be fine but keep your fingers crossed!

After I replaced the belt I ran the machine for and hour and 1/2 last night with the agitator in the on position and the wringer running. Everything was fine. No oil or grease leaks so things are looking up!

Now it's back to the garage for the second coat of primer I put on the lid. I'm going to try the Rust-Oleum white appliance epoxy on it and see how it looks. If it looks good I'll do the wringer next, then the whole machine. There are just too many nicks and scratches to try and touch up. I've seen a few pictures of washers that have been painted (Stan's) and his results are quite impressive. It can be done so I'll be checking out the various techniques used.

More pictures soon!

Larry

 

[stan]

thanks Larry

i'll be interested in the final outcome!

 

[e2l-arry]

tub repairs

Here's a picture of the patched tub. I used J-B Weld to patch the 4 holes. The bottom doesn't look to pretty because I covered the weld patched with the 3M #800 Industrial Sealant. Then, since it's spreadable and I had plenty, I covered the entire bottom where there was corrosion to encapsulate it and prevent further damage. This takes up to 3 days to cure. Not likely in Colorado's dry climate but I'm giving it 3 day anyway.

 

[e2l-arry]

With drain filter

Now with the newly painted drain filter. It covers some of the patchwork and the agitator will cover it all. I thought only pump models came with the screen but mine had one?

 

[e2l-arry]

The finish

Here with the new agitator. I used Mother's Mag & Aluminum Polish on the crown. I found it at the Auto Parts store. Make it shine mike a baby's forehead!