MOVING A MAYTAG E2L

[e2l-arry]

Thanks Jim!

I do usually keep the wringer open when not in use. This was a staged picture to pose it as the first pic i took when I got it home and the wringer was broken so it was closed. Here's another picture with it open as usual.

 

[mickeyd]

About the hose issue

The alumium hook might srew on, if your hose end is threaded, but it would be at an angle. The pump is so much fun, but the original hose is tight and short. I replaced mine with a longer, more pliable one. Guessing you'd only want the real deal.

It's almost mind-boggling what you've done. She looks like she just walked off the Newton runway. Congrats!

 

[e2l-arry]

Thanks Mike!

Yep, I just got the new drain hose and this one isn't threaded. The original one was threaded but this machine has obviously always been gravity drain.

So I used her extensively this afternoon (5 loads) and yep I'm gonna want a pump. The floor drain is hit or miss. No matter what, you're gonna make a mess before it's secured into the drain hole. Plus mine isn't easy to reach. If nothing else, I can customize my new drain hose to go from the tub to the pump. Cut it off there and buy the parts from the pump to the "hook" to the sink?

Here's another picture. I put the decal on the wringer. They weren't on the 1964 models, only after the release bar (red) and agitator (black) changed to turquoise
but I found one on line and it does match the color on the new agitator.

Where is Hamburg NY? It sounds familiar. My Dad's family is from Kenmore NY and we used to road trip it to Grandma's every summer. Are you anywhere near Buffalo?

Larry

 

[geoffdelp]

Oh, Larry; that's BEAUTIFUL! You did an excellent job on her. Aren't those machines amazing? I just love how they wash and wash; they do such an excellent job. You should be really proud; good job. The tub and paint job is amazing! No wonder women made them the #1 conventional washer choice in America!!

Before you go through the pump expense, have you tried a 5 gallon bucket for emptying? I have a floor drain in my laundry room and it's messy. I have a floor drain on the outside of my laundry room walk-out door and that works great. BUT ... in the dead of winter when I use a non-pump model, I find it only takes 4 of the 5 gallon buckets to empty my machine into a stationary rinse tub. It's not so bad and goes really fast. Just a thought.

Enjoy ... we are!!

 

[bradross]

Amazing job, Larry!

Larry, I've been so pre-occupied with the restoration of my Model 30 that I haven't kept up - until now - on the AMAZING restoration of your model E2L! You have truly put some luvin' into it - along with a LOT of hard work (as I can attest!) Wish I had more room than just an apartment to do restoration work - the painting is my real challenge, plus not having things like a work bench, vice, etc. Some day hopefully I'll have more room - would be fun to do these restorations on a regular basis. Plus more room to add to the collection!

Once again - kudos on the magnificent restoration work! Now have fun using it, as I do mine!

 

[mickeyd]

Larry

There is a handful of us from Western New York, and yes, Hamburg is the next big thing west of Buffalo while Kenmore is the next big thing east of it. I'm just ten minutes from downtown on Lakeshore road, and Kemmore is another 15-20 minutes out Delaware Avenue, less on the Expressways. Small world. How cool.

 

For me, half the fun of the Maytag Conventional is the pump, and while I don't like the hose, the pump itself is right out of this world, a great deep rumble, very fast, and very big. You will be amazed at how quickly it flushes 18 gallons of water back into the ocean ;+>

[this post was last edited: 9/15/2012-16:29]

 

[westie2]

Larry on my mothers Maytag E2L dad got a hose that she could sccrew on the end of the drain hose and place in the floor drain then lower the Maytag hose was slower draing but did not get the floor wet at all. She had hoses on the bottom ofeach of her 3 rinse tubs One tub was by itself the other two were as one unit. on the two tegether was a Y hose that went to one to drain.  She also in good weather ran the longer hose to the outside to drain.

 

[e2l-arry]

Thanks Everyone!

Mike -I know Delaware Ave. well. My Dads house was 2 blocks off Delaware on the corner of Tremaine and Eugene. Tell me how and what you used to configure the drain hose to accommodate the pump if you don't mind. If I get a pump from Phil for $45.00, then copy what you did that could save me about $25.00 by NOT having to buy another new hose with the pump.

Geoff - Nice to hear from you again. I was beginning to wonder what happened to you? Thanks for the 5 gal bucket tip. That's how we used to have to empty Grandma's Speed Queen because it was in the kitchen and no pump on her model. That's an option over trying to hit the floor drain just right. I ended up with soggy shoes a couple of times! Guess I don't have my routine perfected yet. One of these days when I get the urge to do some tinkering, I'll add a pump. I think that'll add to the fun. But right now, after these last 4 weeks, I'm about tinkered out.

Brad - I've been following your thread and love the videos! We had the same problem with the corroded aluminum tub. I freaked when I saw that and thought the machine was a goner. Some of the guys here talked me through that though and I did patch with the J-B Weld the covered with some 3-M #800 sealant. It took me a couple of tries until I was totally "leak free" How did your patch job work? I saw you lucked out with a paint match! Was that a spray? As far as my painting went, Stan was the Man! His method was more work then spraying but what's the fun in doing this the easy way? He sent me a picture of his E2LP and I liked what I saw so I used his method. I don't want to reveal any of his "trade secrets" but I'm sure he'd share with you if you're interested. I do have a name and address of a guy that sells all the Maytag decals. Let me know if you need that information.

HAPPY WASH DAYS everyone!

Larry

 

[bradross]

Patching the tub ...

Larry, I initially used J-B Weld in the tubes (epoxy), which hardens terrifically, but is hard to put on smoothly and difficult to sand. So...I changed to the J-B Weld "Steel Stik", which is a putty and quite easy to work with. You have just a couple of minutes to put it into place and smooth it out before it hardens "like steel"! I sanded it quite smooth and it's totally leak free. My crack was on the top edge of the sediment trap, so rather visible, and therefore wanted a product that would match the metal, which the SteelStik does beautifully.

The green paint is a color called "Leaf Rising" by Valspar from Lowe's. Not sure of its durability - it takes several days to really get hard. I've already put a small scratch on the lid - but no big deal, I'll just touch it up.

Regarding the decals, I've been in touch with Kevin Fisher, the "decalguy" in Ohio. I'm going to order them from him in the near future.

P.S. Glad you've been enjoying the vids - I've done 8 in total.

 

[mickeyd]

Your work is so exceptional that I keep forgetting you're brand new here. That means you probably do NOT have an easy dozen or more drain hoses hanging around the basement and the garage. Many here do. Almost any hose will fit the white steel port--3/4 or an inch, I forget--with a nice banded clamp with the screw. This one sports a five buck hose from True Value.

I was underneath the E2LP yesterday and realized that it is the big fly wheel that left such a strong memory of super-sized. I think you will really enjoy the pump. If using the machine for rinsing, and have a particularly sudsy load, you can get an underflow rinse going: high pressure inlet of fresh water with the pump on. Lots O' fun.

Would you reveal your trade/occupation/ career or hobby that has afforded such skill?

 

[wringer]

Mr Mickeyd,

Please tell me where you purchased the gray thingie on the E in the pic that is a hook shape that you have your hose through (talk about improper sentence structure and I do it LOL). I would love to have one to fill my wringers from a garden hose. Hope they are still available.

THANKS !!

Jim

 

[mickeyd]

Jim

We've never had a confessional thread about what it's really like to be a washer man, but I'm in and out of the "Washer Parts" aisle of every big box, hardware, appliance, and plumbing store in town. This item came with a straight gray hose, and the space-age hook. I CAN'T remember which venue had it, it's a few years old, less than 5, but I'll see if it's still stocked in my usual spots during the next few bike rides. Five bucks.

In the garden section at Walmart you can get a few cool new fixtures to attach to the garden hose, one has a long arm with an adjustable spray pattern. Ironic, that whichever spray pattern you select, it is distinctly similar to any one of the spray rinses in all the various automatics. The "Maytag" one is especially recognizable. Just go mosey around and see what's out there when you're free and don't have to shop for a whole bunch of stuff; you'll "get it" right away. Also, if you have any elbows or faucets hanging around, see if any can be retrofitted onto your hose. You can rig a lot of stuff, once you let your imagination fly.

Don't laugh, but you just gave me a new idea for outdoor washing-- a really cool lawn sprinkler attached to a Plexiglas lid for one of the wringer washers. What a fill that would be! Of course, the agitator would have to be in motion, and the sprinkler upside-down, naturally.[this post was last edited: 9/16/2012-14:29]

 

[e2l-arry]

Hey Mike

My paid profession is that of a Purchasing Agent for a medical device manufacturer here in Colorado so it has noting to do with restoring vintage Maytags. I guess it's just a a knack of mine but I can make (almost) anything old appear new. Or at least better than it was when I got it. I just take good care of my "stuff". My niece was over last weekend and she thought I had a brand new Weber grill. I told her it's the one I've had for 15 years, just cleaned it is all. Most of the time it's just good old elbow grease. Stan tipped me off on cleaning the tub with SOS pads and 2,000 grit wet sand paper. He also gave lots of coaching on the painting. I did the lid and the wringer with Rust-Oleum Appliance white epoxy spray. That worked OK except for the occasional splatter but those parts I could take outside. I'd have smothered if I did that in the basement. The rest of the machine was done with Rust-Oleum oil based paint rolled on. I used Stan's formulation that really reduced any roller marks. Luckily, the white epoxy from the spray and the oil based can were a complete match. Usually white is very hard to match. Sometimes you just have to get creative with these things. If you're lucky, they usually work out.

I did have a scare when I last used it though. Right at the beginning of the wash the motor stopped. It hummed but all motion in the machine stopped. Then it was like some internal breaker shut the motor off to protect it. I unplugged and re-plugged and it did the same thing so I thought. "Bad motor". But then I wondered if maybe the motor couldn't turn the pulley and I tried it by hand and it did appear stuck. I'm not sure how but I get it free and once it was loose again I plugged it in again and it worked just fine for the next 5 wash loads. So now I don't know if there's trouble a brewin' on the horizon of if this was just some fluke that worked itself out from a machine that's been neglected and stored for 25 years? Anyone ever had a similar problem? I don't want to add a pump just now if there's a chance I'll be pulling the Power Unit out soon. AYE CARUMBA!

 

[bradross]

Larry - motor seizing and humming...

Hello again, Larry ... the old motor in my Model 30 does that sometimes as well, when I initially plug it in. At first, I panicked also, but then discovered if I just wiggled the pulley or belt a little, the motor runs just fine. Maybe it's a lubrication issue. I've never had that happen on my Model E2LP, but then, it is in VERY good shape, and is a 1977 model - not a 1933, like the 30.

 

[e2l-arry]

That's good to hear Brad

Not that you're having a problem with the motor. But that it's a relatively easy fix. Even if the motor eventually quits, I'd 100 times rather replace an electric motor than pull out and operate on the Power Unit. Even in the Maytag Service manual they recommend to replace the whole thing rather than try to repair one. But I doubt replacement P.U.s are available these days leaving no other option other than to perform surgery. Which again, I'd rather not do.

 

[stan]

Hi Larry

Thanks for the nod on the paint. That was very nice of you,

The paint formula and technic is for anyone that wants it, just ask me and I'll explain it.

 

[wringer]

So, I gave you

an idea with my question? Well, I don't want to burst your bubble but I charge for any ideas I may convey to members LOL. That being said, the sprinkler does sound workable. Thanks for the info you gave me. I will be making a special trip just for that soon. I also thought as I read your reply about this; Put a male end on the fill hose then attach a Maytag pump model hook (if one can be found)to the hose. The next time I go to Amish Maytag heaven I will ask about one. They may just have a goose neck laying around.

Also, if anyone ever needs a Maytag Wringer part they can't find I may be able to find it for you here in Ohio. They DO NOT remove parts from machines that can be restored but do have a lot of units that for some reason can't be restored they sell parts from. They would also rebuild the PU if they have one should you want it. But, all that is up to you.

Jim

 

[geoffdelp]

Larry and Brad ... I would encourage both of you to remove your motors and take them to an electric motor service for a thorough going-over. Also, to be on the safe side, make sure your cords are in excellent shape and DON'T replace them with a 2-prong; make sure you get a 3-prong plug. Our local service has black cords; they look good! You'll save frustration in the long run by doing this bit of service.

If your motor is stopping during wash, you could have a other issues. It could be the motor overloads too easily or you have problems with the transmission binding up or it could be as simple as the belt slipping. By having the motor serviced, you can eliminate from this equation.

Putting pumps on these machines is great and I like using a pump! DON'T FORGET ... you have to replace the fly wheel on the transmission with a larger version (normally sold with the pump). The pump wheel needs to grab the side of the fly wheel to work. It's a lot easier to do with tub removal. Getting the proper grip on an Allen wrench to remove the set-bolt on the fly wheel is tough underneath. It can be done, however. You will need to make sure to line up the pump wheel with the fly wheel so it grabs properly. I've just always found it easier to remove the tub, take off the center plate and then attack the fly wheel and add the pump and lever. You can play around with it easier from the top.

 

[stan]

Hi Geoff

Larry and I talked about replacing the cord with a three prong, but on the other end, (motor) where would the third (ground wire) go? what would it be grounded to.

The outlet I'm plugging mine into, isn't grounded anyway (old house) ?
Have also suggested a "electric motor shop" as well

 

[geoffdelp]

Stan ... it could ground on the screw that holds the plate on that you unscrew to gain access to the plug ends. On "most" of the motors I've used, there's been a 3rd neutral screw on the inside near the other 2 that grounds itself to the motor cover (I would presume).

I've seen 2 prong plug adapters that have a grounding wire that drops down and you screw it into the middle screw of the switch plate that you have covering your outlet. Still the only problem with that is you are grabbing a 2-prong cord with wet (or at least damp) hands! As long as that cord is good shape, I suppose ... I mean ... our mothers and grandmothers never got a shock! Or if they did, I never heard about it.

Maytag boasted about the number of insulated wires in their cord for the wringer washer ... 72, I do believe?