MOVING A MAYTAG E2L

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Now, now, now Larry ... here comes your chance to learn about the transmission! Don't give up yet! You can have the chance now to really clean up the machine and once you're done, you will have a machine that will run and run.

Did you get a service manual for these machines yet? I think I still see them on eBay or doesn't Phil have one that is on CD? Double-check and it's time to start reading it.

REMOVE THAT TUB. Start there. Doesn't Phil have a reasonably priced used tub to sell you? Take out that transmission. Remove the center plate and look inside. Clean it well and get that pulley moving again. It's bound somehow. Maybe it just needs a good clean out and thrust adjustment. Could be as simple as that!

Replace all of those gaskets; the service manual will show you how. Once you're done with everything, spray those parts underneath with primer and then white paint; that machine will look and run like new!!

Just try it; you might like it!! :-) It can be pretty rewarding and you will probably be surprised at how simple it really is!!
 
Thanks Geoff

I'm up for that challenge but my only obstacle it that tub. It's practically welded/glued/cemented to the center plate. I'm sure with enough time and effort I can get it out. How difficult is it to get a "normal" tub out? The Service Manual says something like "You'll probably need help removing the tub." Once this one is out, it will be toast. Phil did say he still has a few so I'll be checking with him tomorrow. This can't be as difficult as getting that stuck agitator spline off.

I do already have a Service and Parts manual so I've been reading up. On the re-assembly of the power unit they mention the final adjustment of the thrust bearing? A few notches until the pulley gets stiff then back off a notch or 2 and lock it in place. Is that something I should try or could I end up making things worse? It's funny but after the 3 stalls in 15 minutes, it ran for over an hour and 1/2 with no issues. The occasional weird noise but that's normal on this machine.

So not to worry. I've invested too much time and got her too pretty to give up now. Truth is, I've discovered over the last month that I like having a project. And this Maytag is the project that just keeps giving!!
 
Larry ... Don't mess with the thrust unless you have to. Try cleaning out the transmission first. Parts cleaner works best and you don't have to disassemble all the transmission parts. I've had them feel "frozen" before and after emptying the old fluid (some has even jelled because of water getting into it)and thoroughly cleaning with liquid parts cleaner ... soaking if necessary ... I've gotten the transmission to free up nicely. These machines just need TLC.

The reason why they say you might need help removing the tub is: original cast aluminum tub were HEAVY and/or secondly, the spun aluminum tubs need to be slowly removed ... 2 sides first then the other 2 sides, next 2 sides ... you sort of "shimmy" it out of there. It's easier with one person on one side and another on the other side and both pulling up at the same time. The spun aluminum tubs are super light.

Once you get that tub out of there, you'll feel better that you can get to the center plate/transmission. Don't forget to utilize Phil; he's a WEALTH of information and has the parts to boot!!

Be prepared for a lot of dripping oil/transmission fluid. Take it apart over something like an old blanket or drop cloth or plastic; it's easier to clean up!

Have fun! I sure like playing around with those machines.
 
I'm soo

butt hurt! LOL
after all Larrys work you'd think he would have been rewarded with a working machine! I guess no good deed... Damn it!

Think we should all admire his tenacity on this!
I'd have pushed the SOB into the river, if I'd gone to this trouble. (but I digress)

Chin up dude, we are with you, keep going!
 
Larry,

I was sad to read of your latest situation with your baby this AM. Thank goodness Geoff is on board here for his expertise and knowledge. He is right about Phil. I worked with Phil on info and parts for a few years prior to my finding the Amish shop here. I am wondering if maybe a dremel (spelling?) may be helpful in removing the cement around the tub bolts without damaging the notches on them? Just a thought. New ones are available if you do ruin them when removing them. Geoff can correct me on this but I think the later models may have had hex bolts in them????? Not so certain that a screen would fit down over them tho ???? There is one thing for certain, and that is the fact that you have not given up on this good ole gal. Please do keep us informed on your progress !! I think that between Phil and Geoff you will do OK here and she will run for years and years. Good Luck !

Jim
 
Note to Mr. Mickeyd,

Well, I went to Lowe's yesterday and found an aluminum plain ends goose neck that is 1" in dia. My 5/8" fill hose fits right through it and now I have things going in the right direction for filling tubs not having to worry about the hose coming out of the tub. Of course, it was made in China. Just thought I would let you know that I have accomplished my project and am wondering how you are doing on the lawn sprinkler system????????? LOL. Best to all !

Jim
 
HI Jim

I'll get on it right away today, or first thing in the morning, LOL.

 

Glad you found it. There's always a way to rig automatic, valve-like filling on a conventional, YAY !

 

LARRY: If I'm reading right, your motor stalling has stopped. So it's all good, I presume. My Norge did the same thing 4 or 5 times at the beginning of summer after a year and a half of hibernation, but now it's fine and hasn't stalled since the end of June. Her skirt goes to the floor, so I had to lay her down to get at the belt, which was a real pain in the banana, but I kept at it, patiently attending to her demands, and she finally healed.

[this post was last edited: 9/19/2012-11:57]
 
Jim is right; the hex head bolts are available and are SO MUCH BETTER than the gulmite system with the bolt, washer cap, rubber washer. The hex head are 1/2 drive on your socket set and with an extension on, are super easy to get on/off. Once you swap those out, you won't hesitate to remove the tub any time. Phil's got them and you buy them by the set ... 2 long bolts and 4 short bolts. You will need 2 additional bolts for securing the center plate to the transmission.

Phil also has the gasket sets you need and the lubrication. I buy a few things at a time ... basic clean-up of transmission "might" need: replacement of gulmite bolts with hex heads; gasket set for transmission/center plate; gasket set for right angle-drive and wringer post; correct lubrication to refill transmission; correct lubrication (grease) to refill wringer post. While you're at it, I'd replace that center seal on the center plate; it's easy and comes as a kit. Don't forget to replace the stop ring on the agitator shaft; it will keep your agitator held in place for a long time! Also, don't forget to purchase the tub to center plate rubber gasket; it's a narrow rubber gasket that goes in the groove of the center plate ... you'll see it when you remove the tub (if it's still there).

Make a list and just start with the transmission and tub.

Good luck and let us know how you're doing.
 
Well today

after work I plugged in the washer and the motor went along fine. Fine enough that I decided to roll it over to the laundry room and do a load. She behaved like a perfect lady. So on one good note, at least, for now anyway, I can still use it until I start operating. And that just depends on when I can get the tub and the rest of the stuff I need. Even though some days it runs fine, I don't like the uncertainty that it will work, or even walk away for a bit. Plus something obviously needs attention "under the hood" I'm curious now as to what's in there? I'm betting on some real funky oil, or no oil practically at all. But I can use it as is for, hopefully as long as it takes to get all the parts.

So Stan, this is Colorado and I don't live near a river. The best I could do here is I'd have to push it off a mountain. And I can't say I didn't think about that!
 
Larry

I was just so disappointed for you, guess I got too emotional! LOL
I'm near a river... so ... my first thought was...

I'll be curious to know what you find too! Maybe only needs oil??
What kinds of sounds did you hear coming from the P.U before this happened?

Think Jim may be on to something with the dremel idea! You have the gulmite wrench don't you?
 
The gulmite wrench

I have but now wonder if I'll get the chance to use it. I heard back from Phil and he said he has no tubs. I'm checking with Dave, another old Maytag guy from Penn. If that's a bust I was thinking of checking with the guy in Early Iowa to see if he ever parts things out. It's 600 miles from here but I could drive out and pick one up. Probably be less expensive that shipping and would only take 2 days.

On the other hand, at least for now the machine still works. Yesterday there were NO problems. Plus Mike said his Norge did the same thing after sitting unused for a long time but with a few instances of crawling under to loosen the pulley his is running fine now.

So for now, if I can't get a tub, and this continues to run, There will be no transmission removal and repair.

I guess things COULD be worse!
 
Hi Larry,

If you decide you do need a tub I can find out if the Amish would ship you one reasonable if they have one. They are not heavy but just big. Let me know if you may have a need for a new tub and I will find out. Hopefully all is on the mend and you won't have to go further. Best of Luck !!! Also, there is a fiberglass gray tub available that the Amish use sometimes for replacement. I have no idea of the cost but have watched them install one in an E. Just another aftermarket part.

Jim
 
I just

ran across this on ebay. Not sure if your interested but just a thought. I have been to Lehman's many times. They do sell rebuilt Maytag E's for 800 bucks. They employ Amish men to do their rebuilding so none is done at the store. I do know they sell parts as Geoff stated but not sure of their inventory. You could always call them and talk to the service manager who seems to be quite knowledgeable. His name is Mr. Kerby. If you want to call them they have a toll free number on their website Lehman's.com. They are supposedly rebuilt but don't look so hot LOL. They also sell that new Home Queen wringer made in Arabia a copy of the old Speed Queen wringers.
221127795180 Item number:
Seller assumes all responsibility for this listing.
Item specifics
Condition:
Used: An item that has been used previously. The item may have some signs of cosmetic wear, but is fully ... Read more

Jim
 
Agreed, projects are fun,

but sometimes it's nice just to be done for a while and to enjoy the washer and the sheer pleasure of washing.

 

"Doan worry. Be hah-ppy." ~ Steve Marley

 

Good Luck with your pretty girl, Larry.
 
Mr. Kirby says,

No, they don't carry tubs. He said he's heard of the fiberglass replacements but he doesn't carry them. Phil said they made a fiberglass repair patch but they're not made anymore. Also of interest, Mr. Kirby says they're getting out of the refurbishing of Maytag business so if anybody wants something from them they better order fast.

There's another guy, Dave from Albany Penn. I've used for some parts and questions. He told me he has 2 salvage E2L's in storage and will check to see the tub condition on those. I'm waiting to hear back from him.
I do need a tub. Maybe not urgently but one of these days,
1. My transmission will total quit or
2. My patch job will eventually start leaking again

So on with the hunt!
Thanks!

Larry
 
Never say "die"!

I got a tub! Dave out of Albany Penn. came through. He has a few old E2's in his barn as parts machines and he has a tub with no corrosion. He did say they'd need some clean up and polishing but I know how to do that. Had a little tub practice recently. So now I just need to order the replacement bolts, gaskets and what ever else, wait for the tub to ship and arrive then start taking the old one apart. I figure I can just use 90 wt. gear oil from the Auto Parts Store. Right? Then the grease for the horizontal and vertical drive? Is that some standard issue easily available grease or does that have to be a Maytag specific grease? I figure I should do them too since I'll have easy access. Then like Geoff says, I'll have a machine that will run and run for years!
 
AMAZON!

Who'd have thunk it! I ordered it on my account.
Thanks Dan! I ordered my stuff from Phil today too. Soon it will all come together and I can finish out this project. Than, as the 3 Stooges say, "There will be nothing to do but live off the fat of the land . . . And eat and sleep!"
 
Now this is interesting

So I'm washing tonight, trying to get everything caught up before the . . .shhhhh, she doesn't know, . . . the transplant. It did lock up once but here's another first. I heard a weird sound, a new one like an old lady fart sound, as sure enough, beneath the vent hole, a nice little puddle of what looked like BOSCO. Thick chocolate syrup. So who knows what that means. It's no big deal since I'll be rebuilding the entire thing when I get the new tub. I'd appreciate any tips on what the sudden Bosco leak means. What should I be looking for once I opener up?

e2l-arry++9-21-2012-21-18-46.jpg
 
From what I've read

The color and consistency of oil, means water getting into the transmission. Can't say I'm shocked but I did think I had it sealed tight. Anyway, kind of lucky the way it all worked out. No matter what, I was going to have to go under the hood. Something I thought about when I brought her home 5 weeks ago. I got off to a rocky start that night. New tub, new seals and gaskets, probably the only thing wrong with this PU is water. An easy fix. Clean/soak the unit . . .. .

I do think that I won't use it anymore until the refurbishing is done. That water and oil leaking can't be helping anything. So tomorrow I can start on operation, TUB REMOVAL.
 
Son-of-a....

Good Lord, this E2L is being beyond difficult!

 

Yup, it must be of female gender coupled with a serious attitude problem, lol
 
The vent

is where it came from. I suspect that from the top of the shaft by the vent, some oil runs to the end and runs down the wringer leg. So a few days ago I thought my problem was it was OUT of oil, the real problem didn't reveal itself until enough water had worked it's way into the system to become obvious. That is actually GREAT timing! Now I have enough history to tell me this machine has to be rebuilt. And now! And luckily today I found a tub. And soon I'll have everything I need to complete the job.

VERY COOL!
 
Beyond difficult, is an understatement!

Luckily, after I get the new tub and open up the PU, there's really nothing else to go bad. Then Like Geoff says, it will run for years and years.
 
If it isn't too much trouble, would you please take plenty of pics along with some commentary?

 

I have yet to tear into an E/J/N (have torn into a Model 80 and somewhat into a Model A).

 

I have a parts breakdown and a service manual for this model, just in case you get stuck.
 
Larry

are you able to tell if this oil leak actually has water in it?

My E has done something similar once (not that bad) after I had added gear lube down the wringer post.
I had had the machine on its belly replacing the belt, and " thought" after that I should add a little for good measure. But she didn't like it and spit it out later! (what I put in came down that leg)

A couple of times thru the years, I have had some very thick grease, about the size of a nickel (grey brown) ooze out of the weep hole, but never noticed water in it. If I remember right, think it was on some hot days, that this happened ?

A few here have said that it's not uncommon for these old girls to leak a little.
Maybe it WAS a old lady fart (air) or something ??

I'll be interested in what Geoff has to say about this.
 
Hi everyone ... well ... there you have it. I believe it's a combination of things. My guess is that when Larry got this machine, it hadn't been used for quite some time. I remember seeing the agitator with that big old hole on the top; surely, water got down there and was over the shaft/center. If those seals in the center shaft weren't good, water went into the transmission and into the right angle drive; hence the oil/water mixture coming out of the breather hole on the drive. Just like it was supposed to do.

Also, oil dripping down the legs means that where the right angle drive connects to the wringer post, the gasket is shot AND probably transmission oil/water traveled through the right angle drive and into the bottom of the wringer post.

I'd stop using it until you get her fixed, Larry. She's telling you that she needs a complete DNC (dusting 'n cleaning)!! :-)

You will be learning a lot about these machines and you will find how simple they can be to work on ... except for the oil ... that stuff gets all over the place but is extremely necessary.

Start reading your manual!!! :-)
 
Just as I suspected

What Geoff said. I was wondering how it got water in it because when I was replacing the agitator and got the spline off and cleaned the shaft, I replaced the water seal between the shaft and the center plate. The old one looked pretty worn but I never filled it while that one was in there. So I'm thinking it most likely had water in the trans when I brought it home. Funny but that was the only thing on this washer that COULD hold water at the time! Just took a couple of hours use for it to work it's way out the breather. This also could explain the pulley seizing up.

On one hand, after 5 weeks, it would be nice to be done for awhile but on the other hand I'm chomping at the bit to get in there, figure this thing out and really finish off the restoration. I have to finish my list of parts from Phil. Maybe by next weekend I'll have everything I need. In the meantime, I can get all the old stuff out and paint all the behind the scenes stuff. Make it look pretty on the inside too! I'll take lots of pictures to add to my pictoral history of this Mr. Haney (Green Acres) washing machine!
 

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