> I just have never seen the real Italian cooking done with garlic browned at the same time as the onions - it turns bitter. <
One of the secrets to great sauce is to cook the bitterness out of the garlic, without browning it. This requires about 10-12 minutes, cooked in olive oil on a very low flame.
More than once my folks got occupied with something else while starting the sauce, they always tossed out the entire batch and started over if the garlic browned. Once that bitter taste is in, nothing will take it out.
The other main secret is to find pre-blight, non-genetically engineered plum tomatoes, which is nearly impossible to do these days. By the year 2000, over 90% of Italy's San Marzano vines (near Naples) had been wiped out by CMV (cucumber mosaic virus). A genetically modified tomato strain was introduced that is resistant to this disease, but these tomatoes have a much blander taste than the original. They're nearly tasteless. This is when most producers in Italy started adding other ingredients (basil, citric acid etc) to their canned tomatoes. If a product has one or more of these added ingredients you can be sure it's the newer tomato strain.
Here's a repost of my dad's recipe:
2 lbs ground round
2 lbs "meatloaf mix" (blend of ground beef/veal/pork)
1 lb sweet Italian sausages, whole
4 Tbsp veal gelatin, if available
5 large cans Italian-style plum tomatoes, peeled in heavy puree
5 cloves fresh garlic, minced, divided into 3 cloves & 2 cloves
1/2 cup fresh onion, finely minced
6 Tbsp fresh Italian parsley, minced, divided into 4 Tbsp and 2 Tbsp
2 1/2 Tbsp dried sweet basil, crushed, divided into 2 Tbsp & 1/2 Tbsp
1 Tbsp dried oregano, crushed
4 dried bay leaves, whole
2 eggs
1 1/2 cups bread crumbs, moistened with water
1/2 cup parmigiano reggiano cheese, grated
1/2 cup romano cheese, grated
1 small can tomato paste (optional, if you prefer a sweeter & thicker sauce)
1/4 cup olive oil
1/4 cup vegetable oil
1/2 tsp salt
1/2 tsp pepper
PROCEDURE:
Heat olive oil in medium skillet. Add:
onion
3 cloves garlic
4 Tbsp parsley
2 Tbsp sweet basil
oregano
bay leaves
Cook covered for 10 minutes on a low flame, stirring often, until
onions are clear. Do not brown the mixture. If it browns, toss it
out and start over.
Empty mixture into large (12 qt. or bigger) non-aluminum saucepot.
Empty tomato cans with juice, one at a time, into a blender and
briefly puree. Add tomatoes to saucepot with salt and pepper.
Cover, increase heat to high and bring to a rapid boil, then
reduce heat to medium-low and boil gently for 1 1/2 hours,
stirring occasionally. Be sure to stir the bottom of the pot,
to prevent scorching.
Meanwhile, prepare meatballs. In a large bowl mix thoroughly:
ground round
meatloaf mixture
eggs
2 cloves garlic
2 Tbsp parsley
1/2 Tbsp sweet basil
bread crumbs
grated cheeses
Form mixture into 2" meatballs. Add vegetable oil to large cast
iron skillet and heat to medium-high. Add meatballs and sausage
and brown well on one side before turning. Do not cook completely.
Outsides should be well-browned, but centers should remain uncooked.
After tomatoes have been simmering for 1 1/2 hours, add partially
cooked meatballs and sausage, tomato paste and veal gelatin.
Simmer on medium-low heat 1 to 1 1/4 hours more, stirring and
skimming off excess fat occasionally.
To serve, remove meatballs and sausage to a separate platter.
Remove bay leaves from sauce and serve over your favorite pasta.
Sauce freezes well and will keep for a few weeks when stored in
airtight containers.