My General Electric Refrigerator/Bottom Mount Freezer. P1

[spacepig]

Louis,

What age of refrigerator do you think would be comparable? I have a service manual for a '61, and I can check behind my '65 to see if there is a schematic.

Jeannine

 

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Hi Jennine. I would imagine the 1965 is the closest to mine if you have it. I now believe mine is a 1968 model. Judging from the amount of bare/broken wiring I found, I'd say this refrigerator has been out of service for many years, which may explain why it's so pristine. So far, every time I put in my model number I have gotten nothing.

 

[spacepig]

Louis, I don't think there's anything on the back of the '65, but I can look tomorrow. I also have a '64 Americana, and I'll check it, too. Jeannine

 

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It's OK Jeannine. No worries. But you did give me an idea to look at schismatics of other G.E. 's. 

 

[spacepig]

Hi Louis, Unfortunately, I have not had much luck. Neither of the Americanas have a wiring diagram on the back, nor did the 1965. I did attach pictures from the 1961 manual for model number TC-469V which is top fridge with swing out shelves and bottom freezer, although it may be too old to be similar. These are just the diagrams, there are a few other pages about electrical parts that I can scan for you. I've also attached pictures of the compressor from one of the Americanas, and also of the 1965 Coppertone when we had the back off to blow out the dust before installing it in the house. Not sure if any of this is helpful.

 

[combo52]

Wiring Diagrams For GE FG Hot Gas Defrost Ref

Thanks Jeannine, Your 61 diagram is the one needed except the compressor is the older one that has four terminals instead of three like Louie's, so the wiring between the older style relay and condenser fan motor are different, but that does not matter as Louie is using the newer 3 in 1 relay.

 

John

 

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Jeannine, THANK YOU!

 

 

I already caught where I made a mistake with a wire (hot gas defroster). I'll keep you all posted!

 

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A quickie. It's a 19 C model (18.8C). Date of manufacture was June, 1965 not January, 1969. (by 1968, models had wheels and wood tone door handles). 

 

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OK, so I did a tracing of the wiring. Some of the wiring goes to places deep inside the refrigerator. The brown wire is still a mystery.

 

 

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Some detailed pictures:

 

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[turbokinetic]

Maybe onto something....

Louis, it seems that the wiring diagrams are very similar for the defrost and compressor control on most of these. Please see this drawing.

It seems the brown wire is supposed to be the Line side of the power cord, only. It needs to go to the power cord but not be tied together with anything else.

The white (ivory) wire was part of the original 3-wire condenser fan circuit which you will not use. Isolate it.

Remove all the connections in the compressor compartment except the single wire to the defrost coil.

Connect the power cord line side to the Brown wire.

From the Orange wire coming out of the cabinet, connect the following things together:
-Orange wire from cabinet
-One of the Supco power input wires.
-One of the fan motor wires.
-Power cord Neutral side.

From the Black wire coming out of the cabinet, connect the following things together:
-Black wire coming out of the cabinet.
-Remaining Supco power input wire.
-Remaining fan motor wire.
-Remaining Defrost coil wire.

 

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General overview:

 

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Hi David. So the line wire is the HOT wire correct?

 

[turbokinetic]

Yes, I probably meant to type "live" there. Got a few things going on at same time and typing too fast.

If you have a 3-wire grounded cord, it is the black wire. If it's a two-wire polarized cord, it's the smooth wire, going to the "smaller" pin on the plug.

The Neutral is the White wire on a 3-wire cord; or for a 2-wire cord, the grooved wire, going to the larger pin on the plug.

It won't really matter much on this one because the original cord was non-polarized.

 

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Thanks a million David.

 

 

Well, it's all connected. All fans are running and it's beginning to cool. Let's see in a few hours. Fingers crossed.

 

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46F so far in the refrigerator section. Freezer is COLD. Amp. draw is hovering around 4.9.

 

[turbokinetic]

Hopeful...

.... that this morning brings a really good outcome!

 

[turbokinetic]

One thing I noticed....

... in the pictures you posted; did you remove the insulation from the lower part of the fridge under the rear cover? If that was missing to start with, you need to replace it with more fiberglass padding. If that space is open without insulation there will be a good chance for frost or moisture buildup in there; plus a bad loss of efficiency.

 

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It's working beautifully. Refrigerator temperature is 37F @ #5 on the thermostat. Freezer ice trays have all set and it's cycling correctly. Did I mention it's whisper quiet?

 

David, I can't thank you enough. Your expertise saved yet another vintage refrigerator. Man, you're on a roll!

 

I also want to thank wholeheartedly John (Combo52), for all his advice and help.

 

A big thank you to Jeannine for the schematics.  And thanks everyone for their advice and encouragement.  Next stop, COSTCO!

 

BTW, David, yes, I had removed a large, one piece fiberglass mat from the back of the refrigerator in order to see where the wiring was going. It was far easier to remove than to put back! I'll post a few more pictures of the compressor compartment before I button it up.

 

[turbokinetic]

Glad it's working correctly for you!

The real test will be after a few weeks to see that it's defrosting correctly as well. I believe you have it connected right so that if the defrost control is good, it will work.

John L also got me interested in these fridges, to a degree where I notice threads with folks asking for help with them. Without his info on the defrost control, I would probably not have got John G's fridge fixed; and therefore would not have had the experience to assist you remotely.

 

[combo52]

Yay, Another GE Frost Guard Refrigerator Saved

Yay Louie and David, you got it going, A big Thank You to David who has more patience than I do, It is often harder for me to explain something to some one else. I knew once you got the compressor to run with the 3-in-1 relay that this ref would be OK, by this time period these GE refs were pretty bulletproof.

 

As David suggested put all insulation back and be sure the black metal rear cover is sealed perfectly to the cabinet, even tiny air leaks will cause problems in time with frost and moisture in the insulation. Probably fresh new soft Permagum is the best choice.

 

John L.

 

[spacepig]

Louis,

So glad that it appears to be up and running as it should be. Fingers crossed that it will go on to live a long life.

This has also reaffirmed for me that I need to get at least a couple of my guys up to David, or convince him that he needs an all expenses paid trip to Florida for a few days--lol.

 

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Hey thanks for the suggestion of Permagum John. I was wondering what I was going to use to reseal the back panel.

 

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Final reassembly of rear panels.

 



 

Yes, that is a trash bag. Because the rear panel was not sealed properly, the fiberglass insulation was damp. After drying it out, as a extra measure, I added the plastic to protect the insulation. As John suggested, I applied Permagum to seal the rear panel tightly againt the refrigerator back.





 

Supco 3 and 1 starter relay in it's permanent location, wiring tidied up.





 

All buttoned up.

 

[turbokinetic]

Awe yeah that looks very good! The new permagum really will help minimize the frost buildup, as well!

 

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Freezer is registering 40F. Ice is melting. It was fine this morning. I hear it clicking, as like starting then stopping. The refrigerator section seems to be OK. Defrost timer? Low refrigerant? Dying compressor? Don't quit on me now Spacemaker.

 

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I spoke with David, seems like I got the relay in a starting loop by not waiting 5 minutes to plug in the refrigerator again. I'm unplugging it now and will wait 10 minutes in order for it to reset. If that doesn't work, I'll need to reorder another 3'n1.

 

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Bummer.

 

 

No dice. The 3n'1 has failed. Just ordered a new one.

 

[turbokinetic]

Frustrating!

These 3-in-1 devices and other Supco start devices are supposed to be equipped with a specially calibrated overload breaker. It is designed to have a long reset time. If the overload trips, it should stay off for at least 5 minutes. This is to allow for the start device to reset; and for pressure to equalize in the compressor. If it tries to restart too soon, it will not be able to start. Louis's overload was cycling off and on every few seconds and not allowing any time to reset.