1966 General Electric Spacemaker 19 Refrigerator MOD. TCF19DBC P.2

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Temperature in refrigerator section hovering around 34F. Freezer section at -4F. Amp draw only goes beyond 5 at compressor startup. Once it settles down, it never goes above 4.8. Today, most of the groceries will return to the kitchen refrigerator, as I had emptied it to give a thorough cleaning (God, the things you find in there). The Spacesaver will be regulated for beverage, overflow duty.
 
2010 General Electric Refrigerator

 

 

Nothing special. Manufactured July, 2010. Currently the daily driver in the kitchen.

 

The 1966 GE is the back-up to this one.

 

Hopefully the daily driver will be replaced by the 1964 General Electric Spacesaver currently visiting Martin (Yogitunes).

 



 



 



 



[this post was last edited: 8/8/2019-23:45]
 
Now what?

 

 

Well, woke up this morning to the same issue. Compressor cycling on and off every minute or so. Temperatures rising inside the refrigerator/freezer. However AMP draw remains normal between 4.9 and 5.2. Mad dash in moving the remaining groceries to the GE daily driver.  Apparently, unless I got yet another defective one, the 3n'1 was not at fault.

 

 

[this post was last edited: 8/10/2019-07:11]
 
Compressor Starting Problems

Not so good morning Louie, I don't think that the 3 in 1 relays can handle the 4-5 amp draw of an old compressor for very long, I was concerned about the nearly 5 amp draw you were measuring. 

 

You may have to go back to a mechanical relay and conventual overload. You could also add a start capacitor and it would be interesting to try adding a run capacitor as well, this can bring down the running watts [ and temperature ] of an older compressor like this one.

 

John L.
 
Stunning!

Hi, I just read this thread and pt 1.   You did an awesome job on this!  It looks stunning (even brand new!) Your attention to detail is remarkable!  Based on all this I'm highly considering putting in a vintage unit like this when I remodel my kitchen.   I'm sorry that it is giving you some trouble again, but I'm sure you'll get it fixed.   

 

Thank you for documenting the process;  I learned a lot about these units! :)   
 
 

 

Hello Alan, and thank you. Glad you enjoyed the threads. They are indeed handsome beasts and along with the quality, is why I am so hooked on them. Wishing you the best of luck in finding your own. Please keep us posted!
 
 

 

Tomorrow I am buying a Supco 3 n'1 straight from a factory authorized dealer. No more Amazon. I am certain I got another knock-off even though I purchased it from another vendor.

 

images


 

RCO410

RCO410--RELAY CAPACITOR OVERLOAD

110 to 125VAC Solid-state Hardstart Relay, includes relay, overload, and start capacitor. Use refrigeration systems with or without run capacitors. Rated for 1/4 HP to 1/3 HP compressors. Maximum RLA 6.8 Amps.

 

Let's see if the third time is the charm.

 
Reply#29

Hi Louie, go ahead and try, but we have seen lots of THE REAL Supco relays fail as well, we only use the 3 in 1 relays as a last resort if we can't easily find the correct part or as a temporary fix.

 

I differently would not use one on one of my refs if I had a lot of food in it.

 

PS the amp draw listed on the nameplate of a refrigerator is of little or no value, it does not tell you what the running watts-amps should be, the service Manuel you got lists the running watts for different running conditions.  

 

John L.
 
 

 

An expanded view.

 

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Correct Relay And Overload

Hi Louie, it looks like you are finding the correct parts and wiring diagrams. The last little square box thing you found is the same as the 3 in 1 without the start capacitor [ I would skip that for now ]

 

If I were there trying to fix this situation I might add a start capacitor and may try a run capacitor as well to bring down running watts and compressor heat as well.

 

You just need to move closer to Jeff and I.

 

John L.
 
Correct Relay And Overload

Hi Louie, it looks like you are finding the correct parts and wiring diagrams. The last little square box thing you found is the same as the 3 in 1 without the start capacitor [ I would skip that for now ]

 

If I were there trying to fix this situation I might add a start capacitor and may try a run capacitor as well to bring down running watts and compressor heat as well.

 

You just need to move closer to Jeff and I.

 

John L.
 
Start and Run capacitors...

Hi Louis; it can get confusing with all the relays and capacitors and those kind of things!  Here's a run-down on the differences.

 

Original type relay. This is a "current relay" which engages the start winding when the compressor is drawing a high level of current because it's not running yet. It only engages the start winding when necessary, disengaging it at the moment the compressor starts. It will work again immediately if the compressor is stopped and re-started. There is no time waiting required. This has to be matched to the compressor so it kicks in and out at the correct current level, based on the compressor motor requirement.

 

The Supco RCO and RO devices. This is the 3-in-1 or the smaller one you linked above without the capacitor. This is not really a relay at all. It's a timing device. I won't go into how it works, but will explain what it does.  This device provides power to the compressor's start winding for a short period of time, once, each time the compressor is powered on. The device does not know if the compressor started or not - it just sends a timed start signal.  The timing device also requires a reset time of up to  5 minutes. If the power is removed then re-applied before this time has elapsed, there will be no start winding activation and the compressor will not start.

 

Capacitors alter the relationship between the AC waveforms going to the run and start winding. This is called "phase shift."  It generates a rotating magnetic field to get the motor going.

 

Start capacitor has a relatively large capacitance value. It generates a strong phase shifted signal with the motor at stalled or very low speeds. However, it will generate an excess voltage and high current if it continues to operate while the motor is at full speed; resulting in damage. It is used with a start relay or timed start device such as the Supco. The 3-in-1 has a start capacitor in it.

 

Run capacitor (or permanent capacitor) provides the correct level of voltage and phase shift while the motor is under normal running conditions. It has a smaller capacitance value than the start capacitor; and can operate continuously. This capacitor will not provide much starting torque while the motor is at a standstill. While running the effect is an increase in efficiency (less amps needed to do the same work).

 

Often systems will have both start and run caps. The start cap has a switching system so it only works during starting. The run cap is permanently connected and stays in circuit at all times.

 

Hope this is useful info!

 

 
 

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